July 29, 2025 A Smooth Start and a Rough Ending

Tuesday July 29, 2025 L'Anse-a-Beaufils to Caraquet 57 miles and 5.9 hours

A bit of a late start today as we were trying to make sure we could get reservations at Caraquet before heading out. Took us until 9:50 and multiple phone calls but we finally got things squared away and headed out the harbor onto hazy but flat calm seas. Just a bit of a chill in the air so decided to ride inside figuring things would warm up later in the day and allow us to head topside. Pretty boring first few hours of cruising with "Otto" taking control of a straight-line heading across Chaleur Bay to Caraquet. Actually rather boring and mundane although that was, unbeknownst to us, getting ready to change.

Passing the lighthouse at Cap d'Espoir. Translates to Cape Spear.
But after the weather started to change, we decided
it really meant Cape of Despair. Only picture we took all day.

Midway through our day and in the middle of the Bay NW winds began as a gentle breeze. I had checked the forecasts so was not surprised to see a gentle breeze picking up. The problem was that the breeze continued to strengthen and so the ripples on the water started developing into a shorter chop with some windblown spray. Still, nothing of concern. A few hours of this and we'll be to Caraquet. Weather up here has a mind of its own and is quick to change from the forecasts. Today was no exception as winds continued to grow along with the waves. We were taking them on the starboard bow quarter which for the most part wasn't too bad except the wind driven spray was being thrown up across the bow and windshield. Intervals between the growing waves was short so we were constantly hitting waves at this point. Mostly now just 2-3 footers but we'd get that occasional 4-5 footer which was starting to disorganize the interior with things getting thrown about. Nothing seemed to fully alleviate our dilemma. Stabilizers were on and I tried various speeds and angles. Good for a while then a weird wave would catch us and Martha was on the floor again trying to pick things up. Finally made it to Caraquet and the safety of the harbor. Due to our size we had to tie up at the wharf at the commercial docks. Not ideal and we're still getting tossed around a bit. A well-deserved drink and a light dinner and off to bed for us. We're scheduled to have a fuel truck come tomorrow to top us off with some better priced fuel. Then we'll explore the town. Lighter winds tomorrow should make for a more enjoyable day. And we have left the providence of Quebec and formally entered New Brunswick which necessitated our clocks to spring forward an hour from Eastern Daylight Savings Time to Atlantic Daylight Savings Time. The sun now rises at 5:30 instead of 4:30!!

Journey for July 30, 2025

Wednesday July 30, 2025 Caraquet

Much nicer day today. Gentle breeze, partly sunny and 70 degrees. Tourists seemed to come out from everywhere once the day warmed up. All dressed like it's a 90 degree day at the beach. Our diesel delivery was a little delayed, but he finally showed up around noon. Topped off the tanks with 850 more liters. Much better price at just $1.53 per liter! Should get us back to Maine before needing any more.

Artistic birds lining the seaside walkway on the way to the museum.

Much prefer these over the real pooping ones.

After refueling we needed to determine the best method for getting off the boat if we wanted to visit the Arcadian Museum. As mentioned, we're tied to the commercial wharf. Thankfully some dockhands were here and got us secured - no way we could have done it by ourselves when we arrived at low tide. Hardly able to get our lines up to them. So we're tied up well above us and due to the tidal range we also have extra line out to provide for riding up and down with the tides. At high tide the lines are slack and we drift away from the wall, but at low tide we're down low with tight lines and tight against the wall. While I didn't mind jumping between the boat and ladders and climbing up and over the barrier, it wasn't the most enjoyable prospect for Martha. But she persevered and made it off and back on without issues.

At high tide it doesn't look too formidable. Except you need to pull the boat
over against the wall and hop off before the boat moves back away.

The museum was a bit small and everything was only written in French so not sure we fully appreciated the history lesson. But basically, the Acadians came from France to New France during the 17th and 18th century. Primarily settling in modern day New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Islands. After England gained control of New France in the mid 1700's the "Great Upheaval" was a British forced Acadian Exodus. Of the roughly 15,000 population of Acadians in the maritime provinces, over 11,000 were forcefully removed and their lands distributed to new English migrants. Some returned to France, others made way to Spanish controlled Louisiana becoming Cajuns (an abbreviation of Acadians). A large number died of disease, starvation and drowning as transport ships relocated them. By the late 1700's they were allowed to return to the area provided they pledged allegiance to the crown. They remain decidedly French but have developed a unique regional French dialect. Caraquet is an active fishing port. Seasonal fishing for lobster, crab, cod, salmon halibut, etc. is still evident in the many commercial boats in the harbor. Watched some local youths jumping the 15-20 feet down off the wharfs into the 65 degree water. Sent a chill down my spine for their safety and also from the thought of the cold water. Finished our day with fish and chips, a lobster roll and some ice cream.