May 2-3, 2024 Crescent River Anchorage and River Oaks Marina

 May 2, 2024  Cumberland Island to Crescent River - 71 miles 8 hours

Today's challenge was getting through the channel at Jekyll Island on a rising tide.   It is severely shoaled with less than 4' of water in places at low tide.   Catching it at mid rising tide would give us a safety factor to avoid a grounding.   It's about 3 hours travel time from Cumberland and hitting it at 1 PM would have the tide right which meant anchor up at 10.  Plenty of time to sleep in a bit and a leisurely breakfast.

We may have anchored a tad close to this shoal which showed up at low tide. 
We were still safe in 8' so a quick drop-off just like the charts showed.

Easy cruising past the nuclear sub base at Kings Bay (one was in port) so we got the usual escort to insure we kept away and kept moving along. Pretty uneventful cruise around Cumberland Island.  Hit Jekyll perfectly. Tide was showing +2.8 feet and depth finder was showing about 3.5' feet under the hull with an occasional depth sounder "beep" showing less than 3'. Crossed paths with outbound car carrier 'Aquamarine Ace' while crossing the Brunswick River.  It was showing a destination of Baltimore on the Marine Traffic site. Not sure about that until they get the Key Bridge mess cleaned up.

Typical scenery through GA - marsh and occasional land masses

Aquamarine Ace car carrier headed out of Brunswick

The next potential trouble area was Mud River behind Wolf Island.  We were hitting it around 4:00 which was high tide so almost a non-event.  I say almost because out of nowhere we were inundated by a barrage of big green head flies. Got to try out our latest toy - an electronic fly swatter. Bought it for $3 at Harbor Freight so wasn't expecting much but must admit the spark and "zap" sound when hitting one is very gratifying.

Shrimp boat anchored by the Darien River. 

The most fun you can have for $3.

 Made it to our anchorage at Crescent River right at 6pm. Still plenty of sunshine.  Nice open anchorage in the marshes, so catching the last of the day's breeze.  The flies have dissipated but been replaced by the no-see-ums.  Always something!

Journey for May 2, 2024

May 3, 2024  Crescent River to River Oaks - 49 miles 6.5 hours

Departed Crescent River at 9:45 after a peaceful night's rest and another leisurely breakfast.  No hurry as we're again working the tides for a push at the end of the day up the Ogeechee River to our neighborhood marina.  First time up the river. There is a known shoal across the entire width around Ft. McAllister that we need to hit with at least 2.5' of rising tide.  

Severe issue with no-see-ums as we left due to lack of a breeze. Under 10 mph winds all day, so the bugs were a constant companion most of the day.  Only relief was while crossing Sapelo Sound and again at St. Catherine Sound during longer stretches of open water.  Calm conditions across them today but these areas get quite sporty in strong winds with opposing forces from wind, waves and currents.  As we approached the Ogeechee we could see a large ship in the distance.  We're too far away for it to be a ship going into Savannah so wait a bit and determine it's the American Freedom cruise line heading south. We seem to cross paths with this ship on every trip lately.  AIS shows we'll meet at a 90 degree bend in the ICW with shoals sticking out both sides of the channel.  Prudent captain that I am, I opt to slow to idle and pull to the side to allow him unencumbered passage through the bend earning a hearty thanks from the ships bridge. 

American Freedom hooks a 90 degree turn
and passes us on the way to Brunswick.

 The Ogeechee is a pleasant cruise.  Winding and wide, oftentimes fairly deep.  Marsh to the north and treed land to the south with occasional homes.  We pass the earthen works of Ft. McAllister - sight of a civil war battle on land and sea, all part of Sherman's March.  This is the only tricky part of the river where it shallows forcing an abrupt turn to cross straight across from the north shore to the south.   We were riding the incoming tide at plus 3' and saw readings of 3.5' below the keel.  

Passing the restored and historic Ft. McAllister 

Ft. McAllister Marina - That Silverton boat brought back memories from
 a lifetime ago when we cruised the same model up on the Chesapeake Bay.

After that hump, the rest of the way to River Oaks was just winding river and mostly uneventful.  Interesting to see the ancient hand dug cuts into the salt marshes. Remnants from the once thriving rice plantation era in this area. 

Old rice field canal

 The current is still pushing upriver as we arrive at the dock. With a T- head side tie we made it look easy.  Now off to Jacksonville to retrieve the car, do some provisioning and we'll be ready to go again.  

Picture from the drone

And from the land

Journey for May 3, 2024

May 1, 2023 We're Off the Dock

May 1, 2024   Port 32 to Cumberland Island   6.8 hours  54 miles

Off the dock and heading north by 7:20AM. Always appreciate the first rate accommodations at Port 32 and this visit was no exception.  Made the trip through this area plenty of times now so nothing real unusual as far as sightings.  Caught a very favorable current heading out the St. Johns River. 

Ortega River Bridge opens for our departure

Leaving Jacksonville behind

Expected the current to turn against us entering Sisters Creek but it remained favorable almost all the way to Fernandina Beach.  Passed a father and son sailing what looked like a homemade skiff and enjoying time together. Picturesque, and peaceful.  We idled it down to no wake to help maintain the tranquility as we passed.   Had a few dolphin sightings and a few charged toward the boat, but none seemed interested enough to play in our wake. Martha spotted a couple of stingrays jumping straight up out of the water, but they were too quick to get a photo. Fantastic first day back traveling on the boat with sunshine all day, temperatures in the mid 80's and a delightful sea breeze providing some cooling relief.   

Typical ICW scenery between Jax and Fernandina

Uncomplicated life - a boat, a sail and some wind

Stopped in Fernandina at Port Consolidated for diesel. Rough looking dock and shack but they always have the best price on the east coast - just $3.45/gal "all in" today.  We like that they service the shrimping boats so always have fresh Valvtect fuel. Took on 305 gallons.  Still had plenty of time left in the day so moved on to anchor off Cumberland Island.  Stayed here several times before and highly recommend it.  Good holding and if you have the time the island is a national park with ruins from the Carnegie family mansion, wild horses, nature trails, sandy beach, etc.  Three other Looper boats at anchor here as we stalk the first timers on our NEBO app. 

 

AGLCA members Surf Rider, Y Knot, Darlin Lea and
 As You Wish showing up together on NEBO

Clouds and a rain shower settled in as the sun went down,

Journey for May 1, 2024

April 2024 FINALLY ready to cruise again.

 April 2024 - Still in Jacksonville, but Finally Ready to Cruise Again.

Our plan was to have the boat at Port 32 in Jacksonville for the month of March while getting a full hull and topsides detailing.  Weather delays pushed it into mid-April, but since we paid for the slip for the full month, we opted to just keep the boat here.  Original plans and schedules never stand a chance when dealing with marine business contractors!  

Detailers hard at work

All cleaned up and ready to cruise

Martha trying out picture taking with her new drone.

Port 32 marina. - one of our favorites. Red arrow is " As You Wish."

We took advantage of our time here for a few chores.  Took off the canvas bimini top and had it professionally cleaned, restitched and re-waterproofed.  Having attempted this ourselves last year with marginal success, it was much easier handing it over to professionals who did an amazing job.  Spent a few days doing a deep dive cleaning and sealing the inflatable tubes on the dinghy.  With help from a marina neighbor, we went through the process of lowering and raising the radar arch and bimini supports.  This will be required several times over the summer to get us under low fixed bridges. Undertook fixing a leak on the sliding doorway/hatch going from the pilothouse to the flybridge. Completely removed the glass, cleaned up and epoxied the recess and then reset the glass.  So far sems to have worked.  Final project was to refinish the inside wood trim of the pilothouse windows.  Condensate forms on the windows in cold weather which eventually drips onto the wood and then degrades the varnish.   So, sand off the old remaining varnish, re-stain to match and then multiple coats of varnish later to seal it all real good. 

Difficult working positions and messy conditions refinishing the trim

Finished result turned out pretty good!

Since we didn't get to execute our cruise plan for 2023 due to our relocation to Savannah, Martha's knee replacement and my eye surgeries we'll pick back up with them.  A trip down the full length of the Erie and exploring New Yorks finger lakes is still planned but we also added "The Triangle Loop".   This is a side trip off The Great Loop.  At the junction of the Hudson River and Erie Canal, you continue northward through Lake Champlain and up to the St. Lawrence. Turn left to Montreal and then on to Ottawa before taking the historic Rideau canal back down to Kingston, across Lake Ontario and through the Oswego canal back to the Erie.  Just learned of the recently damaged bridge in Kingston that may alter those plans as we can't fit under it in the current closed position.  As noted above plans and schedules are just a suggestion when dealing with cruising life.  Stay tuned as we'll be back to posting on a regular basis.

The Triangle Loop route we hope to take.

March 2024 - Cruising Starts Again - Sort of!

 March 2024  - Trial cruise from Brunswick Landing to Port 32 Jacksonville.

Ya Hoo!!   A new year and our first cruise.  My second eye surgery was on January 11.  Wound up needing a partial cornea replacement. Thankful for the generosity of the unknown donor.  Dr. seems pleased. At my 1+ month follow-up I was able to make out a few of the fuzzy letters on the 20/70 line on the eye chart which put me a bit ahead of schedule in recovery. Other benefit has been I'm able to tolerate sunlight much better.   All that said, with Martha's knee now in good shape and my vision back to being tolerable we decided to give it a shot at moving the boat ourselves from Brunswick Landing to Port 32 in Jacksonville.   Just two relatively short cruising days in pretty familiar waters.  Boat would then be 2 hours away so I could still easily drive down to get a few projects done, have it detailed and get the bottom cleaned before starting our real cruising.  

Thurs February 29. 

Our friends Maurice and Karen from the upstate area were driving down to the Amelia Island Concours d'Elegance car show for the weekend.  They were able to stop in Richmond Hill for lunch and then we all headed down to Brunswick.   We initially met while attending Porsche high performance track days and later learned they also had a house and boat on our old stomping grounds of Lake Hartwell.  They followed our Loop adventure and were interested in seeing our new boat.  Great to show them around and spend a few hours before they headed to the car show.   Perhaps we'll be able to get them on board for a few days once we start traveling north.

Friends Maurice and Karen visit the boat

Friday March 1.  Brunswick Landing to Sisters Creek   7.25 hours 65 miles

We were at Brunswick Landing for 3 months and our biggest regret was not taking better advantage of the marina.   They have a very active social calendar with something going on most every day.  Yoga in the morning, craft sessions, technical talks, chats around the fire pit, free beer/wine socials on M/W/F.  A fantastic clubhouse, huge library, fitness equipment. 3 spotless and new bathhouses with free laundry. Walking distance to downtown restaurants (and a brewery).  And very convenient for us being just an easy 1 hour drive down I-95. 

We planned for a 9 AM departure to work a rising tide going through the notoriously shallow waters at Jekyll Island. Weather forecast was cloudy, low 60's, light wind and spotty rain so the decision to drive from the pilothouse was a no brainer. There's always a pretty extensive checklist to go thru after the boat has been sitting awhile.  Fluid checks, thru hulls open, fuel lines open, windows and ports closed, windless, bow thruster, stabilizer pump, stabilizer controls, nav lights, chart plotter, nav apps, radar, depth finders, cameras, life vests, flares, fire extinguishers, documentation papers, etc, etc, etc... We have 3 of the old style emergency signaling kits which I hate because they expire so quickly.  And of course these were all expired.  Glad we now carry one of the new style electronic signaling devices that keep us in compliance with CG requirements.  Just needed to install the batteries and verify it was working. All checks completed it was time to fire up the engines, check the gauges, check for shifting and throttle response, put on our marriage saver communication headsets and cast off the lines.

Working through the pre-departure checklist

Off the dock and heading out from Brunswick Landing

Pretty smooth traveling all day.  Made good time with the current working in our favor most of the trip. There were a few dolphins that welcomed us out on the water which was great to see. Not being sure how we would hold up physically, I had selected several potential places to stay the night along the way. Cumberland Island, Fernandina Beach, Amelia River and Sisters Creek. 

Nuclear sub was in port at Kings Bay so patrol boats were out in force.

Passed Cumberland and Fernandina feeling good and too early in the day to stop.  Looked over the anchorage at Alligator Creek on the Amelia River.  Wide open and exposed but with light winds would have been OK.  Decided we still had plenty of time to make the Sisters Creek free dock which would save us the hassle of anchoring and leave us with just an easy 3 hour trip.  We've stayed here several times, and it can be tricky because of the strong current and a narrowish channel and we were coming in with a strong outgoing current.  Luckily, there was room at the beginning of the dock so rather than motoring in and trying to do a 180 in the current we simply did our 180 at the entrance and backed our way in and over to the dock. Assisted a large sailboat who came in after us. They attempted the traditional enter and spin around method without success and had to abort. Second attempt with a simple side tie into the current was much more successful. Pleased with ourselves after a successful day one.

Journey for March 1, 2024

Sat March 2, 2024  Sisters Creek to Port 32 Marina  3 hours  25 miles

No hurry to get up and get off the dock with only a few hours of cruising ahead. Still overcast and light winds.   If rain arrives it will be later in the day and overnight. Dockmaster had confirmed our reservation and slip number at Port 32 when we drove down to drop off a vehicle earlier in the week.  Said he would be around until 3 on Sat so just radio for a hand when arriving.  By 10 AM the other boats at the dock had long since departed for points north and so we left too but headed south. Figured on a very leisurely pace down the St. Johns running against an outgoing tide. Very little shoreside activity at any of the Jaxport facilities.   No container ships, no cruise ships, no military vessels. 

Odd seeing so little activity happening along the waterfront

Pretty dull until a Jax fire boat came flying past us with lights flashing headed to downtown.  That was followed shortly afterwards by a radio broadcast about a possible jumper off the Main Street bridge. As we idled through Jacksonville and under the bridge there were several police and coast guard boats standing by, but not much activity.  We never could find any reports of an incident so figured it was our daily excitement but a false alarm. 

Heading into Jacksonville

Patrolling for possible "jumper" off bridge - false alarm.

The Ortega River entrance is always fun times.  There is no deep water entrance just a large expansive 6' deep shoal extending outward in every direction. We head in at dead idle watching the depth finder sounding off with constant readings of 1-2' under the keel.  The Ortega River Bridge tender responds quickly with an opening and we're soon beside Port 32 marina.   We try calling them but no response so just head for slip C-91.  No current, light breeze, a big slip with a full length finger pier so docking is pretty straight forward as we back in and get a hand from Kim and Chris on the boat next to us who grab our lines. Funny how the boating community can be so small at times.   They still remembered us and the boat from our visit last year!  

Journey for March 2, 2024

 

Dec. 2023 Boat relocation to Brunswick Landing

 Nov. 24 - Nov. 30, 2023.  Finally on the move...

We really enjoyed the people, facilities, pool, dockmaster, etc. at Lightkeepers Marina in Little River.  R-dock was rocking and definitely the place to be over the summer with its combination of full time liveaboards and active weekend boaters. It was tough to say goodbye, but ultimately it was simply time to get out of SC and into a marina closer to home. Great sendoff on our final night viewing the Little River Christmas boat parade. 

Lightkeepers Lighthouse decorated for Christmas.

Some of the boats went all out decorating.

Martha's knee replacement surgery had gone great but she was still unsure about spending 5 full days aboard and so I recruited help for the trip to Brunswick Landing Marina.  We had reservations starting in Dec. so confirmed with my crew a departure right after Thanksgiving.  Travel conditions looked great with cooler temperatures, light winds, a full moon and favorable tide times. Plotted out our trip using Navionics, Aqua Maps and Waterway Guide as references.  Decided to anchor our first 2 nights at known locations we've used before and then try two new places on the final nights.  Engine checks done, full fuel, full water, full fridge, full cooler of beverages - seemed like we were ready. 

I had recruited my brother Bill for the trip.  He was back south after spending the summer up in Maine.  He's an accomplished boater - worked on a tug, worked as a marine mechanic, has a captain's license, did 6 pack fishing charters, and even did yacht deliveries.  He wound up being invaluable as we soon learned my bad eye severely limited my time being able to stay at the helm.  So, Capt. Bill did most of the driving while One-Eyed John was relegated to passenger, chief cook and dishwasher. Our 3rd crew mate was One-Eyed Bob.  Literally, he only has one good eye after a childhood accident.  Met him the day we arrived at Lightkeepers as he helped grab a line while we docked.   Bob is newer to boating -  recently bought his first bigger boat - a sailboat (ugh!!) - and is a liveaboard.  His charismatic nature earned him title "Mayor of R dock". He wanted to gain some experience and education traveling the ICW since most of his boating has been in and out of Little River Inlet and then day sailing offshore.  Never hurts to have an extra hand and the third stateroom meant no overcrowding. Felt great paying it forward as we taught him the intricacies of navigation, tides and currents, weather, shoaled in trouble spots, anchoring techniques, and the apps we use. 

One-Eyed Bob checking out the view from the flybridge.

Captain Bill enjoying the comfort of the pilothouse helm.

Sun. Nov. 26.  Lightkeepers Marina to Minim Creek Anchorage    -  7.75 hours and 70 miles

Sunrise departure from LKM.  Cool overcast day, but easy traveling.  Little River swing bridge opens on demand, no traffic this early going through the ditch behind Myrtle Beach.  High tide going through the rockpile. Another quick opening at the Socastee swing bridge.  Wave for the camera as we pass by "Show us your boat".  Then ride a nice outgoing tidal current all the way down the wild Waccamaw River. Open waters of Winyah Bay are calm as we pass by Georgetown.  Make the sharp 90 degree turn into Minim canal and follow it to our anchorage for the night at Minim Creek East.  Anchor down. Sharing the creek with a lone sailboat anchored off our stern. Calm winds so just the easy tug on the anchor line as the tide turns.  Nice pasta, salad and bread dinner before an early night to bed.

Lines are off as we leave Lightkeepers Marina at sunrise

Mon Nov. 27.   Minim Creek to Toogoodoo Creek - 8.75 hours and 82 miles

Rain overnight but gone in the AM.  Cool and cloudy start as we raise anchor at 7AM on the end of a rising tide for our longest day of travel. Need to get through shallow waters of McClellanville and Isle of Palms while water is up. We got surprised at one point when the 77' Jarrett Bay sportfish "Reel Quick" was suddenly aside us.  Not showing on AIS and no radio call.  Drawback of running from the pilothouse is reduced visibility astern. Crossing Charleston Harbor we give the engines an overdue blowout and test for a clean bottom with full rpm and speed achieved.  Timing through Elliotts Cut is bad as we fight a 3 kt current.  Thankfully, it's just a short distance before we're into familiar territory as we round Johns Island (our hailing port) and Wadmalaw Island before turning into Toogoodoo Creek.  The sun has come out but is brutally low in the sky and straight into Capt. Bill's eyes. No way I could tolerate that sun in my eye making me even more thankful Bill agreed to come.  We've used this anchorage multiple times.  Still one of our favorites with good width, good wind protection, and decent depths.  After a long day we opt for an easy meal - devouring the HoneyBaked ham and big slices of pumpkin pie provided by One-Eyed Bob.

Captain Bill tests the fishing at Toogoodoo Creek

Just another sunset at Toogoodoo Creek

Tues. Nov. 28.  Toogoodoo Creek to Ramshorn Creek (behind Daufuskie Island) -- 8 hours and 75 miles

A cool cloudy morning to start.  Glad we are all inside.  Still working tides to our advantage as we get through Watts Cut, Fenwick Cut and Ashepoo Cut with high water.  Sun finally breaks through as we pass the long no wake zone at Beaufort. All quite as we pass the Marine base at Parris Island.  Total lack of tourists makes passage around Hilton Head a pleasure.  No fighting with sailboats, rental center consoles, buzzing jet skis, or parasailers like in the summer.  We head into a new to me anchorage for the night. Ramshorn Creek/Cooper River.  Easy in and out, nice wide swing room, good depth but would be a bit exposed to winds. With the light winds forecast it's an ideal location for the night.  Dinner -  creamy chicken and mushroom marsala with salad, wine and bread.   Followed by another slice of pumpkin pie for dessert.

The flurries never materialized but it was a cold start to the day.

Sunset and lights of Savannah from Ramshorn Creek Anchorage

Wed. Nov. 29.  Ramshorn Creek to Crescent River (behind Sapelo Island) - - 8.25 hours and 75 miles

A Local Notice to Mariners had advised that the demolition of the old Island Causeway bridge just past the Savannah River had restricted passage times. The first one for us was between 10 and 10:30 AM which meant we got to sleep in a bit with anchor up at 8:15. A smaller container ship passed upbound on the Savannah River before we crossed over. Always amazed at the speeds these ships move up the river. Arrived at the bridge early at 9:45 to learn demolition was ahead of schedule and passage was unrestricted.   With a little extra time on our hands, we pull into Isle of Hope marina for a pumpout.  Would love to get a slip here since it would be extremely convenient to the condo but it's a smaller marina, very popular and with a wait list for slips. Beautiful day, sunny and warming up.  The American River Cruise ship "American Destiny" left Savannah as we passed and is slowly catching us.  We both make it through the recently dredged Hells Gate without issue.  If we made a turn to starboard and went 16 miles up the Ogeechee River it would put us at our condo.  Instead, we continue on the ICW where "American Destiny" passes us, then slows to idle.    We radio their intentions and learn they can't get through Mud River until high tide later that night. So, around them we go.   We'll pass that area in the morning with good water. Pull into Crescent River for the night. Another new anchorage for us.  Directly off the ICW so easy in/out.  Plenty of swing room, good depth, a few tree lines for wind protection. Sets us up for a quick half day run to Brunswick.  Dinner is a Teriyaki pork stir fry followed by our final pieces of pumpkin pie!  I wasn't able to do much boat driving with my bad eye but hopefully made up for it with decent dinners for the captain and crew.

Container ship heading up the Savannah River

"American Destiny" waiting for high tide.

View at Crescent River anchorage

Thurs.  Nov. 30.  Crescent River to Brunswick Landing Marina - - 4.5 hours and 44 miles

Final day of our trip.  Glorious start with sunshine and temperatures rising into the 60's.  This is what winter cruising should be like every day!  No boat traffic and ideal weather conditions.  There are many boaters who find the GA and SC sections of the ICW to be boring. I'm the opposite. I've always found the solitude in these natural winding areas along with the playful dolphins to be inspiring.  Some of the prettiest anchorages we've found and always a new one to explore around the corner. Sure, bugs are a problem during warm weather - but that's inevitable if you cruise in the south.  We make it to Brunswick Landing where Martha is waiting dockside for our arrival.  One final classic maneuver by Capt. Bill as he casually pirouettes the boat for a stern-in dockage at slip 12H and we are soon safely secured. 

Overall, a fantastic trip.  Captain Bill did an amazing job piloting us for hours on end each day. I enjoyed being able to relax as a passenger a bit more than usual.  And Bob's confidence level in being able to navigate his way south had him ready to head back and cast off his own lines.   

  

Capt. Bill readies for a stern-in dockage

Bill and John after arriving in Brunswick.