Oct 30, 2022 The Albemarle Loop

 Oct. 19-22 - Elizabeth City, NC

This is our third visit by boat to Elizabeth City.  Once when bringing As You Wish #1 down   from Annapolis after we purchased it, once when going northward via the Dismal Swamp Canal route while on the Great Loop, and now this time.  The town holds special memories for us as it's where we first became friends with our Looper boating buddies Russ and Jax with a simple invite to go explore the local brewery.  That started a long string of trial flights at breweries all along the Loop together.   It was nice to see there are now 2 breweries in town and another a bit further outside town.   The old Ghost Harbor Brewery we previously visited has moved into a larger taproom facility across from Hoppin Johs Restaurant while the actual brewery remains down the alley.   The newest brewery is Seven Sounds. It's right on the waterfront next to the Elizabeth River drawbridge.  Impressive facility with venue rental areas in an older renovated building. Both have a nice selection of beers although Ghost Harbor offers a few more of the stouts, porters and browns we prefer. They also have a very cool logo.

Seven Sounds Brewery takes reuse and repurpose to the next level

Elizabeth City, as part of the Albemarle Loop program, offers 2 free nights dockage.   We stayed 3 and no one seemed concerned. They are known as the "Hospitality City" for their welcoming attitude towards boaters.  Dave, a local sailor, came by and checked on us twice during our stay offering to take us into town if we needed anything.  So, while the "Rose Buddies" of old have since passed on, the city residents continue their welcoming attitude.  Glad to see progress occurring in the efforts to revitalize downtown while maintaining the old architecture.  Along with the new brewery an industrial 3 story building right by the bridge has been converted into lofts.  And a really cute old fashioned gas station we were convinced was doomed for destruction has been renovated and converted to a coffee house.  Elizabeth City is also home to the free Museum of the Albemarle providing a good review of the history of the area. 

Oct 22-31 - Albemarle Plantation Marina - 40 miles

Easy 4 hour cruise back down the Pasquotank River, west on the Albemarle and into Yeopim Creek to Albemarle Plantation Marina.  Mostly open waters so little of interest although you need to be sure and stay clear of the Harvey Point Restricted area.  We weren't sure exactly what it was all about but plenty of markers with no entry signage.   Folks at AP gave us the low down.  It's a mission training facility for overt operations.  They tell of a replica of Osama Bin Ladens house being constructed there and used for practice runs before the actual raid.  There's been a few bomb blasts during our stay, so I guess another mission to somewhere is in the works. 

We noticed a boat on AIS ahead of us on the same course and when they turned right after passing the last restricted marker, we knew they were headed to the marina.  We idled back to their speed to insure they had plenty of time to get secured before our arrival.   Pretty narrow and shallow channel heading in.  Couple areas showing 1' or less under the keel but per the locals just soft silty mud so not an issue.  It's another location offering 2 free nights.  We'll be staying a few extra as we await some packages that we had shipped here.  Friendly folks so far.   Got an invitation to docktails from John and Nancy on Vagari - a gorgeous 65' Offshore Flushdeck.  They had also invited Brian and Linda on Vahevala - the boat we followed in - a 52' steel Kristen trawler. We had seen that boat during our stopover in Urbanna but never met them.   Rainy and windy day on Sunday so just chilled on the boat. 

Journey for Oct 19

We wound up staying much longer than anticipated at AP. Waiting for packages, scheduling conflicts for space at Edenton, small craft weather advisories, etc.   Feels free to skip the below.  It's just a day-to-day diary. 

Monday, we got a golfcart and toured the facilities.   It is big.  Marina, golf course, club house, restaurant, grill, pool, tennis, fitness center, etc.  Lots of houses, some condos, even some "plantation sized" lots suitable for equestrian use.  Our hosts for doctails, John and Nancy are Miami natives but fell in love with this place during their stay and are selling their boat and going back to dirt dwellers here.   They can't say enough good things about how friendly and welcoming the folks here have been.  They say "We keep waiting to see when the medication is going to wear off on these people.  They can't be this happy all the time".  Group of 8 for dinner in the grill. John and Nancy had invited friends Alan and Margaret, plus Brian and Linda and us.  We got told about the Thursday farmers market and also learned that  Vahevala already had reservations in Edenton starting Thurs for the one slip big enough for either of our boats but not both.  So, they will leave after the farmers market, and we'll continue our stay here until they leave.  Weather hasn't been great with small craft advisories and N winds 15-20-25 knots so we're OK just being parked.

Tuesday our first package arrived. A Vacuflush vacuum pump rebuild kit.  After a couple hours with my head down in the bilge working on the sanitary system, we finally have the plumbing all working again - that's the hope anyway - we'll know better after a few days.  Life on a boat ain't all sunshine and margaritas!

Wednesday - somehow a discussion had started between Nancy and Brian about Jalapeno Poppers and who made the best.  Naturally a contest ensued to be hosted on Vagari.  We had a big gathering with the usuals of Nancy and John, Linda and Brian, us, plus the newest couple to pull into the marina - Dan and Tanya on Crimson Tug an American Tug and also a Canadian couple Wayne and Christine on Shore Linn a huge Viking CPMY.  Nancy had instructed everyone to bring $6 in singles for a couple rounds of Right - Left-Center.    Martha walked out with $24 in freshly stacked bills as winner of the second round!

Sampling Jalapeno Poppers on Vagari

Thursday's Farmers Market was just for AP so not huge but an extensive selection of fresh produce, meats, fish, baked goods, etc.  Afterwards we waved goodbye to Crimson Tug and Vahevala.  But in came new guests Rick and Beth on Lake Effect.  Another package arrived with trigger relays for the HVAC system.  The unit controlling the master stateroom had gone out several weeks ago. To keep the master going until parts arrived, I had swapped the bad relay with a good one for the forward berth.  Other than being in an uncomfortable contorted position down in the engine room to replace the parts it wasn't that bad of a job.  And now all 4 units are back working properly.  

Friday, we took the golf cart out for another spin.  Stopped and exchanged a few books at their library - one of the largest we've seen at any marina.  Even picked up a few videos to watch.  Somehow we ended up at the sales office!! Got a nice presentation and a drive around to see some lots.  Like everywhere. prices here have skyrocketed especially with a heavy influx of new people during Covid.  

These condos would do OK as a "dirt home".
Back side view overlooks a golf green, then the marina, then the bay.

Saturday was sort of an idle day.  Our Clemson Tigers had a bye week.  Just as well.  One drawback here is the spotty wifi making streaming anything pretty difficult. Big celebration at night.  Boaters were asked to decorate their boats for Halloween.  Some people went all out - us, not so much.   They set up a tent just off the docks with several tables of deserts and most folks who decorated also had beverages available for adults or treats for the kids.  Good crowd of residents who came out to walk the docks.  

Our Dread Pirate Robers Halloween Pumpkin

Wish I could say we did something interesting on Sunday, but overall, a pretty chill do nothing day.  Well, we did wind up doing another group dinner up at The Grille.

Oct 20 , 2022 South to the Albemarle Sound

Sun Oct 16.  Yorktown to Top Rack Marina - 48 miles

Today we leave the Chesapeake and begin our slow trip back south.   We've got a couple days of decent temps before it turns cold.  Trying to get to the Albemarle sound when it hits.   This is just retracing our trip north in reverse.   Today we left Yorktown, down the York River, down the bay and into Newport News, around to Norfolk and Portsmouth and finally to the outskirts of Chesapeake and Top Rack Marina.  We stopped here for fuel on the way up and now complete a needed refill adding 475 gallons. 

Military activity everywhere around the Norfolk area

The Navy presence in Newport News and Norfolk is always impressive. Seeing multiple aircraft carriers being serviced along with dozens of other vessels is something you need to see to fully appreciate.  Light traffic as we transit the no wake zone around Norfolk.  Fall festivals are in full swing everywhere and Norfolk had a full complement of tents and music on the waterfront.   This is the area we had so much trouble with delays due to railroad bridges being in the down position when we came through northbound.  We were making great time until we rounded the corner to see NS RR Bridge #7 in the closed position.  Hailed them twice with no reply.  After a relatively minor delay both an Amtrac and a short freight train rolled across.  So overall, could have been worse.   

Journey for Oct 16

Mon. Oct 17.  Top Rack Marina to Chesapeake City free dock- 3.6 miles

Coming north we had the AICW pretty much to ourselves but sitting at Top Rack last night and this morning we watched a steady migration of boats headed south.  No room at our next stop Coinjock tonight when we called for reservation so made them for Tues. night and did the short move to Great Bridge and their free dock.  Allowed us to get the transit through the lock and under the bridge completed and a secure place for the evening when that cold front passes through with rain and wind.  Perfect timing for the lock as we were the last ones in. Five boats following about a mile behind out of luck and had to wait an hour for next lockage.  Nice new free dock right beside the Great Bridge Battlefield Park and across from Atlantic Yacht Basin with a close-up view of boats headed south.   Easy bike ride across bridge to Kroger's for some essentials. Unfortunately, the battlefield museum is closed until Wed. 

Interesting pair of these military boats passing thru Great Bridge 

Journey for Oct 17 
Possibly one of our shortest ever travel days

Tues.  Oct 18 - Cheasapeake City, VA to Coinjock, NC - 36 miles

After a few bands of rain and wind overnight things settled down and we had a good night's sleep.  We'll mark this as a good convenient stop for future transits.  Temps were a bit cool this morning and staying in the 50's all day.  Really cold weather starts tonight with a frost advisory. Glad we're plugged in to shore power for a bit of heat if needed.  We timed our departure great.  Left at 9:30 so we were in between the crowds passing through the locks at 9 AM or 10AM.  We were able to hit the Centerville Bridge opening at 10AM all by ourselves and then pushed up to North Landing Bridge for 10:30 opening. Again, all to ourselves.   We finally caught up to several sailboats who left CC much earlier than us when we were several miles out from Coinjock.  Gave them all nice slow passes and continued on.    Sort of liking these leisurely half days of travel.  Nice to not be in any big hurry.  Off the dock mid-morning and then docking for the day by 2-3.  Steady parade of southbound boats continued right until dark. Reservations tonight at the Coinjock restaurant where we SPLIT their famous 32-ounce prime rib dinner and still took home plenty for another meal.

Southbound Tow - no dinner stop for him at Coinjock

Late arriving sportfish - gone well before we got up the next morning

Journey for Oct 18 - Crossing onto NC

Wed. Oct 19 - Coinjock to Elizabeth City, NC - 39 miles

Pretty cold this AM but at least no frost. Amazing the size of some of the yachts headed south that put in at Coinjock for the night.  We let them all head out at first light knowing they would be running hard and putting up big wakes.  By 9:30 we almost had the place to ourselves so headed on our way for another half day of travel.  Destination Elizabeth City and the starting point for our tour around the Albemarle Sound visiting numerous small historic towns. To get there we had to finish going south down the North River, then west across a part of the Albemarle Sound, then north up the Pasquotank River.  Northwest wind blowing 10-15 put up a snotty chop in the open waters and wind driven spray coated the boat in salt water.  The windshield wipers got a workout as we drove from the pilothouse.  Only excitement for the day was a radio call from a passing sailboat warning us of a sunken sailboat ahead on our track with just its mast sticking above the water.  Next thing the Coast Guard is contacting both of us for more information.  We wound up giving them the coordinates as we passed by and sending a picture to them as requested.  The boat is directly on the ICW travel line so a definite danger to navigation.  No way anyone would see it traveling at night.  Hope our good deed of the day saves someone from a misfortune.  Arrived at Elizabeth City and got the primo side tie spot in front of the park.  Perhaps some karma payback for our good deed.  We'll spend a few days here.

Sunken sailboat in the Albemarle Sound we reported to CG

Journey for Oct 19

Oct 15 Historic Yorktown

 Oct 15.  Yorktown - 4 night visit

We decided to stop at Yorktown on sort of a whim.  It really wasn't a place we had considered when we started our cruise around the Chesapeake.  But back when we were starting and had stopped in Hampton, the couple in a boat docked beside us had it as their destination.  I did a little research looking at the marina and was concerned based on several reviews.  The docks sit parallel to the York River and experience significant current. That means docking is best accomplished during slack tides much like our marina in Charleston.   It is also pretty exposed to ESE winds coming off the bay. We just thought - not ideal.   But as we were working our way back south it seemed like a logical next stop rather than revisiting Hampton or Norfolk.    We needed a place to sit out a forecasted rainy Thurs and we also needed to get to a Best Buy to swap out a defective Samsung tablet.  They had 2 Best Buys within an easy Uber drive.  So, we stopped not expecting much and just planned to stay 2 nights and head out Fri AM.  

Once docked we found Yorktown had much to offer and so we wound up extending our stay for 4 nights. Crazy for a place with a population of just over 200.  The "Riverwalk" is the waterfront area.  Consisting of the marina, nice sandy beaches, several restaurants and shops, and some open entertainment areas. No real town, just a very active area with lots going on.   We did spend most of Thurs. away from the water getting the new tablet, but the rain cleared out midafternoon which worked out great for a concert in the park.  We got to sit on the boat and listen to some great jazzy music.

The Riverwalk - band is set up under the white tent

 Friday started with the arrival of 2 Navy ships.   We boaters have a saying about docking. "Sometimes you WATCH the show and sometimes you ARE the show".  Well, Navy boat #1 WAS the show as it managed to " make contact" with the dock.  The shows continued later in the day as a sailboat came in and couldn't control itself in the current. He attempted 4 different dockings with the final outcome pinning himself tightly against a dock perpendicular to the river current. 

Navy boats join us on the dock

There's a lot of history in Yorktown.  It was the scene of the last major battle in the Revolutionary War resulting in General Cornwallis's surrender and ultimately the Treaty of Paris reaffirming the validity of our Declaration of Independance.  They have an excellent American Revolution Museum where we spent several hours Fri.  Had dinner and a beer flight at the Waterside Grill.   Back at the boat we were entertained again with music.   

Evening sets over the York River

Sat. started with a parade of folks up and down the docks as the Navy vessels were open for tours.  We watched the goings on for a while then headed off the docks to the farmer's market.  Lots of vendors with "stuff" but only one produce vendor. We were able to pick up some fresh veggies, a sweet potato pie for dessert and some pastries for our late breakfast.   That done we jumped on their free trolley for a ride over to the National Parks visitors center.   The park here and at nearby Jamestown were largely developed during the Great Depression as part of the Civil Conservation Corp program.  The park includes a number of the battlefields, several historic or recreated buildings on Main Street, canon firing demonstrations, recreated encampments, etc. 

Preparing to fire a canon at the National Park

 Alongside the park is the Victory Monument.  It was the first monument congress ordered built - just days after the battle.  They never specified funding, so it didn't get built until the centennial of the battle rolled around.  Interestingly, Lady Liberty atop the monument was decapitated in 1942 after a lightning strike. She was replaced about 15 years later - this time with a lightning rod secured.  

Victory Monument

Back at the boat we watched as the Navy boats set off while a wedding was being conducted shoreside. More live music tonight!  We decided to head to the Yorktown Pub for dinner and to watch the Tenn. Vols take a win over Bama.   Then back to the boat and settling in to watch our Clemson Tigers continue their undefeated season with a win over FSU.   Overall, a pretty enjoyable few days.

Oct 13 2022 Exploring the lower Chesapeake

 Sun Oct 9   Bells Creek to Urbanna Town Dock - 28 miles

After a couple nights in our well protected anchorage up Bells Creek, we pulled anchor and headed to one of our old haunts - Urbanna, VA.  It's a very small town up the Rappahannock River on the port side after passing under the Rappahannock River Bridge. 

Rappahannock River Bridge

 It's got a narrow but well-marked and sufficiently deep entrance channel leading to a nice anchorage area and several marinas.   We stayed at the Urbanna Town Dock.   We had kept the original "As You Wish" here for several months when bringing it down the Chesapeake.  Super friendly and helpful staff.   IGA grocery a short walk away and several restaurants.  The town of less that 500 citizens is known for their annual Oyster Festival held the first Friday and Saturday of November when over 65,000 people converge on the town. Just a quick one night stay for us this trip.  

Journey for Oct 9

Mon Oct 10  Urbanna to Mobjack Bay and Put In Creek  - 52 miles

Another cool but calm and sunny morning so we bundled up and headed for the flybridge.  Nice cruising day although not too much to see other than passing 2 lighthouses - Wolf Trap Light and New Point Comfort Light. 

Wolf Trap Light

Point Comfort Light

I had originally picked an anchorage up the Severn Creek but after a bit more consulting of wind conditions for our 2 night stay we decided that going up the East River to a more secluded anchorage at Put In Bay would be better. Got a text that our friends Russ and Jax on InQuest  were  behind us and would be coming in to anchor too.  They were our primary boating buddies while doing the Great Loop and are working their way south after a summer up in Maine. 

InQuest at anchor 

 They were aware of our efforts in finding a new boat and were excited to see the new As You Wish.  Always great to see them, catch up and hear about their current adventures over docktales.  

Sunset at Put In Creek

They only stayed one night so we dropped the dingy on Tues and went exploring.  Nothing in particular - just tooling up and down several of the creeks, looking at houses and giving the dingy motor a little workout. 

Old plantation home and grist mill

Journey for Oct 10

Wed Oct 12  Put in Creek to Yorktown  -  24 miles

Pulled the anchor at 11 which allowed for a nice leisurely hot breakfast aboard.  Felt really late but we were planning for a 1:30 - 2:00  arrival at Yorktown to hit slack current.  Riverwalk Landing docks run parallel to the shore in deep water with up to a 3 kt flow. 

Sometimes we eat pretty good!
Avocado muffin with egg and tomatoes, fruit and juice.

 Nice waterfront area.  Couple shops and restaurants.  Free trolley takes you to multiple historical sites and battlefields in the National Park.  This is part of the historical triangle including Jamestown and Williamsburg.  Plenty of Revolutionary and Civil War history. Rainy day forecast for Thurs. so we'll stay at least until Fri. Worked out well as we needed to grab an Uber and hit the local Best Buy to return a defective tablet and get a new one.  Now I just need to reload all my navigation apps and maps.  We may extend our time here to do a bit more touristy things and catch the Sat farmer's market.

Journey for Oct 12

Oct. 7, 2022 Back across the bay

 Fri, Oct. 7, 2022 - 44 miles

No need for an early departure today as the plan is just a 3-4 hour cruise across the bay to an anchorage up Dividing Creek.   That meant time to walk into town to the Corner Bakery.   Onancock is a town of roughly 1200 citizens so arriving to a line of waiting customers was a surprise but also a harbinger of the goodies inside.  While my intentions were purely to buy just a couple of items for today's breakfast, once inside with that warm yeasty smell of fresh baked goods all discipline was abandoned.  Somehow, I managed to get a full dozen of assorted donuts, danish, pastries and buns. And it only cost $13.58!!!   I have no idea how they stay in business with those prices.  I felt smug in only carrying one box out the door as most customers were loaded with multiple boxes.  So much for good intentions, but bad behavior never tasted so good.

We've been surprised at the number of bald eagles we've spotted on the Chesapeake,  
including this one on a channel marker as we headed out

We finally made it off the dock at 10:30.  Great day for crossing the bay.  Flat calm and a straight shot across so "Otto" - our autopilot - did most of the driving.    Dividing Creek looked to have some nice anchorages marked up on Navionics with positive reviews but when we finally got to them, they either were a bit too small or too exposed to the strong northerly winds forecasted as a cool front passes through in the middle of the night.    Nothing wrong with moving along and going to Plan B and exploring our next choice. Into Fleet Bay and up the Indian Creek branch.   Found a great protected elbow in Bells creek with sufficient swing room to put out plenty of rode. We'll spend 2 nights here on the hook waiting for that front to blow through.  BURRrr!!!  Forcast for Sun AM is 42 degrees.

Full moon rising over our anchorage at dusk

 

Journey for Oct 7
Note the Plan B detour to a different anchorage

Oct 6, 2022 Holed up in Solomons and off to Onancock

 Sat - Wed  Oct 1-5   - 0 miles

Hurricane Ian wreaked havoc with SW Florida and the SC coast.  But it also had an impact on us up on the Chesapeake.   We were having strong NE winds as Ian marched up through the Carolinas before it eventually turned right and headed back out to sea across the lower bay. Then it just sat there.  No longer a hurricane, just a nasty storm pulling in rain and winds for days on end. 

Remnants of Hurricane Ian creating strong north winds

We got secured back at Beacon Marina in Solomons on Sat to ride it out and had cold gusty NE winds and rain every day before finally clearing out on Wed night.  We even got a bit of sunset colors as the last of the clouds dissipated.  Wish I could say we did something constructive with all that free time, but lazy mornings and early to bed seemed to become the routine.  

Sunset after the storms are finally over

 Thurs. Oct 6   -72 miles.

Thankfully, that is now all behind us.  We started today a bit cool with sunshine, clear blue skies, the slightest of a NW breeze and a forecast into the lower 70's.   We headed back to the eastern shore and the town of Onancock, VA.   Had never been here before but heard good things about it being a quintessential older, smaller eastern shore town with some nice homes and a few good restaurants right up the street from the marina. 

 The run down the bay was uneventful.  Lots of open water.  Stayed clear of a few old military target areas listed on charts as "restricted areas".   Covered with wrecks that were used back in the day by the military for target practice.   The "Old Hannibal" wreck is a very eerie sight as you pass by.  An entire ship that was set on a mud flat and used for bombing practice.   The ship has been blasted in two with the front 2/3rds intact as well as the back 1/3 intact.  But in between you can clearly see the destruction from multiple shelling impacts.  

Old Hannibal 

 Finally made our way into Pocomoke Sound then turned to starboard and worked or way into the twisty channel going up Cedar Creek and ending at the town wharf in Onancock. Great little municipal marina designed for transients with floating docks and a nice new bathhouse.   Did I mention that Martha once again took control of the helm while executing another stern in docking??  I'm beginning to think I've lost my role as Captain.   We arrived in time for a quick walkabout to town, followed by dinner and a flight of beers at The Blarney Stone restaurant.   Also located the Corner Bakery which will provide some tasty treats in the morning.

Tight quarters for Martha to spin the boat and stern in dock

Captain, my Captain with a little extra bounce in her strut after another successful docking

Journey for Oct 6