April 15, 2023 Georgetown to Osprey Marina

 Sat. April 15, 2023  Back to our starting point - Osprey Marina

Winding down our St. Johns River trip today with a cruise up the Waccamaw River and back to our starting point at Osprey Marina. Todays plan was leave at 9AM for a 2 hour cruise up to Wacca Wache marina to top off our tanks with diesel.  Then roughly another hour to Osprey Marina.  Anchor came up fairly easy, but the chain and anchor were covered in nasty black muck.  Lots of hosing it off as we winched it slowly up.  Our 2 hour cruise to Wacca Wache turned into almost 3 hours because of tide and current.  There seemed to be an especially strong outgoing flow dropping our speed by 2MPH.  So, our normal 10.5 mph speed was now 8.5 or less despite still running 1400 rpm.  Good thing we weren't in a big hurry.  Easy side tie docking at Wacca Wache Marina for fuel.   Based on published marina fuel pricing for the week they had the cheapest diesel on the east coast.  No reason not to top off as chances are good it will be higher rather than lower when we start moving again.  225 gallons and a pumpout later and we were back on our way.  While the lower Waccamaw is wider open water and marshy old rice fields,the river turns narrow and becomes wooded swamplands. It's a nice change of scenery after days cruising through the marshes of GA and SC. 

Waccamaw River starts transitioning from marsh to swamp

Small boat traffic started to increase dramatically. Not too surprising given it was a nice sunny 80 degree weekend day during spring break.  I normally throttle back a bit for smaller boats but today was the exception.  Just too many of them and we needed speed to maintain our own headway. We kept going at our pace as they zipped up behind us only to fly by on either side at full throttle. If heading downstream they would jump our wakes without so much as slowing down - bouncing, bashing and slamming their boats.  Nice to enter the channel leading into Osprey and get off the river. Easy pirouette and back into our slip for the next month here on C dock.  It's been a unique and enjoyable two month cruise.  Lots of nature, anchoring, great warm weather, reconnecting with old friends and making new ones.

Journey for April 13, 2023

April 12-13, 2023 Marine Propulsion to Dewees Creek to Georgetown

 Wed April 12, 2023  Marine Propulsion to Dewees Creek

Waited until 10:30 before leaving out this morning.  Wanted to catch a bit of rising tide and needed to settle up the bill at the office.  Here's a very rare experience.  The repair bill came in well below what I was expecting.  First time I've had that happen with any work done on any of our boats.  Just another testament to why we like working with Anthony and his team at Marine Propulsion. 

Once on the water we were through very familiar territory around Wadmalaw and Johns Island. Stephens Towing has finished the expansion of their yard and continue to work on bigger and bigger commercial boats.  New docks and a high stack boat storage facility going in either at or next to Ross's Marine. On to Elliott Cut just past high tide.  Plenty of water but still some current ripping against us.  Tow coming down the chute as we approached. At least it was just the tow and not pushing any barges. Good judgement had us waiting until he was through. 

Bigger commercial boats being serviced at Stephens Towing

Meeting a tow head on at Elliotts Cut

Charleston harbor had a little breeze but no significant wave action.  We have been fortunate this entire trip regarding open water passages.  No wave action of concern crossing any of the open sounds.  Last possible concern of the day was passing through Isle of Palms.   Several shoaling areas but high tide gave us sufficient water.    Anchored in Dewees Creek.  Nice wide anchorage. Plenty of swing room which is needed since water is a bit deeper.  Multiple places to drop a hook so room for plenty of boats. Very exposed so not a good choice in severe weather but OK for tonight.  InQuest and Legacy at anchor having arrived earlier. No Rush docked at IOP.   We're all part of the Looper Fleet of 2019 and will meet up in Georgetown. 

Coast Guard busy checking out these boaters as we pass Charleston

Fort Sumter protecting the entrance to Charleston Harbor

Sunset over Dewees Creek

Journey for April 12, 2023

Thurs.  April 13, 2023

Sunrise over Dewees Creek almost as awesome as the sunset

Six hour cruise up to Georgetown.  The others all got an early start.  We finally hauled the anchor about 9:30. Our logic was to catch McClellenville shoaling areas around noon on the rising tide. Lots of marshland today.  Had a few bug episodes with big flies.  Not all day - we would just pass areas with them.  Could tell when we were about to hit an infested area when a flock of swallows showed up ahead of us zipping back and forth across the ICW.   Doing their thing and reducing the fly population.  Dumb flies - really easy to hit with the swatter.  Positive side of the trip - lots of dolphins.

Got to Georgetown and anchored in the back between InQuest and No Rush.  Docktails  and a tour from Jamie and Trish on No Rush.  It's a Dettling 51 and quite impressive. Very livable with classic old school styling.  Very different from the Meridian they looped on. Then dinner out.  Of course, we hit Winyah Bay Brewery. Great to catch up with Jamie, Trish, Russ and Jax discussing memories of our loop and this year's travel plans.  Realized that all of us had bought new (bigger) boats since doing the loop. And everyone had changed their boat name except us. 

Jamie and Trish's new boat No Rush - a Dettling 52

Our Gang reliving good times
Martha, Jax, Russ, Jamie, Trish, John

Rained overnight but cleared up early and turned into a stellar day. Georgetown crawling with loopers.  Saw Lake Effect at the marina.  We initially met them during our stay at Albemarle Plantation last fall and knew they spent the winter here.  Not on board so we left our boatcard. Spent the day with Jamie and Trish in town - checking out the museums and shops and walking the live oak tree lined neighborhoods. Then a late lunch, some ice cream and a visit to Indigo Bakery for some treats for tomorrow's breakfast. 

Journey for April 13, 2023

April 11, 2023 Toogoodoo Creek and Marine Propulsion

 April 10, 2023  Toogoodoo Creek to Marine Propulsion - Rockville, SC  11 miles

We settled into our anchorage way up the Toogoodoo Creek.   Past the open marshes and behind a line of treed shoreline giving us protection from the winds and rain forecast for Sat and Sun. as a cold front moved through.   As promised, the skies clouded over Friday evening and winds started blowing a bit harder.  Just a dismal day on Sat. with off and on rain but non-stop winds howling a constant 15-20 and gusts into the 30's.  Cold all day and barely into the 50's.   We hunkered down and chilled.  Slept in late, then a late breakfast, some TV, some reading.  Not an overly productive day.  Rain finally eased up overnight but wind continued to blow. By late Sunday the clouds started breaking up but the cold and winds remained.  So another sort of relaxing day doing pretty much nothing bundled up in long pants and sweatshirts. We got some great news that warmed us up over the weekend. My nephew and his wife had their second child.  Welcome Eliza Helen to the family!!!

Eliza Helen and her proud dad

Tree line in Toogoodoo Creek breaking the wind

Sunday evening sunset 

Our Northern Lights genset had developed a minor fuel leak sometime along this trip.  It ran fine, developed power fine and kept our batteries recharged at anchor fine.  But even a small fuel leak leaves that ubiquitous diesel smell hanging in the air in the lazarette. Our timing was ideal for a stop at Marine Propulsion.  They are the service yard in Rockville that did the1000 hour service for us last year and the same service for the previous owners.   They are Yanmar and Northern Lights certified, and we have full confidence in them.  We made arrangements to head into the marina at slack high tide as Adams Creek can be a bit shallow at low tide. A breezy cool but short trip.  Got docked, checked in and asked to spin the boat and move it forward a bit to keep the travel lift area clear for a boat they were hauling out in the morning. Tues. AM bright and early the travel lift was growling. Afterwards Anthony headed over and got to work on the genny.  My original thought that it was just some O-rings turned out incorrect - although they were shot and needed replaced. Next we determined the low-pressure lift pump was faulty when trying to bleed the system.  Got that replaced and the genny running.  Much better, but determined there was still a slight leak. Looked like the high-pressure fuel injection pump actually needed rebuilt and we'd have to get it done later and elsewhere. Good living has its rewards and we were blessed today.  Anthony has the same genny on his boat and has been in the process of rebuilding it.  He had a replacement fuel pump for it!!  So, no stopping somewhere else for unknown days, using an inferior mechanic, finding a shop to rebuild the pump and then getting it reinstalled.  Once and done all here and in just a few hours.  Even got some extra tutoring on our main Yanmar engines!!   

The source of our problems - the leaky fuel injection pump

As an added bonus during our stay, our friends Gene and Paula who live on nearby Johns Island (our boats hailing port) drove out and took us to dinner at a great Mexican restaurant. Amazing friends from our Spartanburg days who now live down here.   Great to catch up with them and chat about numerous mutual friends.  On the way back to the marina after dinner Gene told us of his adventures almost losing his new Jeep while attempting some off roading. Scary and hilarious at the same time. Pictures of the mud caked vehicle were priceless. And yet again, we forgot to take pictures while visiting!!! Tuesday, we unloaded the bikes and made the short ride towards Rockville and stopped at HUMS grocery.  Learned about it on our last visit.  Not much to look at but fantastic sandwiches for lunch.  Renowned for their chicken salad sammy or the Pimento cheese with bacon sammy. Even been written up in several magazines and featured on ETV. 

Whodathunkit - best chicken salad sandwich in SC

Sunset across the marsh from Marine Propulsion docks

Journey for April 10, 2023

April 6 and 7, 2023 Vernon Creek to Cowen Creek to Toogoodoo Creek

 Thurs. April 6, 2023  Vernon Creek to Cowen Creek - 52 miles

Vernon Creek remains a great anchorage for us.  Easy in and out.  Nice breeze when we anchored, then died off at sunset resulting in a calm night and no other boat traffic.   We prepped for a full no-see-um assault but seems they are toying with us as there were fewer than previous days.  Traveled these parts multiple times so scenery is nothing new.  Around the bend to Isle of Hope and the marina, then past the marinas at Thunderbolt and you know you're into Savannah. We've always been awed by the mega yachts berthed at Thunderbolt for service so were surprised at the lack of them this trip. Bummer. 

Thunderbolt Marina gives notice you are entering Savannah

After Thunderbolt it always feel swampy and commercial to me until crossing the Savannah River.   We had another disappointment on this trip.  We have ALWAYS seen big container ships looming over us at the river crossing.  None on this trip.  Their size as they head up the narrow channel is inspiring.  So again, bummer.    Once into SC we worked our way around Daufuskie Island and then past Hilton Head.  Watched the tourists riding the parachute boats as we passed by. 

Launching tandem tourists for a fun ride.  

Across the Port Royal Sound and up the Beaufort River.   We turned into Cowen Creek before town.  Stayed here on our trip south.  Nice wide-open area.  Found a spot with the right depth to drop the anchor with lots of 360 swing room.  A bit of center console boat traffic in and out rocking us a few times until dark.  

View out of our anchorage at Cowen Creek...

As the sun sets..

Journey for April 6, 2023

Friday April 7, 2023  Cowen Creek to Toogoodoo Creek - 53 miles

Very early departure by our standards.  Anchor up at 7:30 listening to the rapid gunfire of new recruits across the river at Parris Island working on their riflery skills.  Our departure time is critical today.  We need to get past the longish no wake zone at Beaufort.  Then there are three critical passages we must hit between the half rising and half lowering tide or the water will be too skinny for us.  Ashepoo Cut, Fenwick Cut and Watts Cut all have serious shoaling issues.  As we approached Beaufort an Endeavor catamaran was pulling out.  It was like old times following them down the broad Coosaw River.  Reminded us of all the days we followed Russ and Jax on Cat and Dogs while on the loop. These were new loopers on Beachside just 12 days into their trip.  

Beachside - the Endeavor cat we followed from Beaufort

We had gradually been catching up to them as we approached the Ashepoo Cut.  Called them on the radio to say we were slowing down to let them take the lead.  They replied " We slowed down so you could go first".   There was a sailing cat in front of us both who also decided to peel off and not go in first.  By this time several other boats were lining up behind us.  OK. High tide. We knew we would be fine having come through just 2 months ago.  Turned the corner and "OH CRAP!!  Dredge blocking half the entrance where the water is shallowest!  We head in hugging close to the dredge and get through fine.  Water shows less than 7' under the keel but this is with help from a 6.5' tide.  

Boats line up at our stern to follow past the dredge at the Ashepoo Cut entrance.

More heavy equipment on the way to help with dredging spoils

It was a pleasant cruising day in between the cuts.  A little bit more boat traffic than we've had the last few days on the ICW.  Fishermen seemed to be out - recreational folks out wetting a line and commercial crabbers tending their traps.   Lots of dolphin spotting and an occasional one jumping at the chance to ride our waves. Made it through all the cuts without issue and out onto the Edisto River.  We're back into very familiar territory now. 

Dolphins riding our wake

Another work day out on the water

Toogoodoo Creek is another favorite anchorage we've used multiple times.  There's a cold front promising rain Sat and Sun with NE winds gusting over 30 mph.  We head a bit further up the creek than usual to get protection from a tree line. Plenty of depth and swing room even after putting out extra scope. We'll stay here 2 nights then have an appointment to bring the boat over to Marine Propulsion in Rockville. The generator's fuel pump has developed a slight leak we'll have them correct.  The early departure from Cowen Creek meant we arrived here early.  Time for some chores and a proper dinner.

Wash day!!  Clean clothes drying in the sun.

Journey for April 7, 2023

April 5, 2023 Altamaha River to Vernon River

 Wed. April 5, 2023  Altamaha River to Vernon River

Woke up here at Fridaycap Creek in the middle of a pea soup thick fog bank.  Literally could not see the water looking over the side.  Thankfully we had not planned to leave until after 9. Amazingly it completely dissipated within 15 minutes around 8:30.    No-see-ums were out again in full force.  

No see um attire.  May not be pretty, but at least it's effective

Our chemical arsenal against the No-See-Ums.  Little impact. 

 Longer travel day today. Needed to hit tides at the right times in specific places. There's about a 6' tidal swing here so the extra water can make quite a difference.  That tidal current is also what constantly forms these shoal areas. We caught Little Mud River on the falling tide with an extra 4 feet.  Not much of a concern.   Then spent most of the day on the back side of barrier islands and crossing sounds before coming to Hell Gate. We were around 2 hours into the incoming tide with about an extra 1-1/2' of water.  South end of Hell Gate has shoaled in worse than when we came through 2 months ago.  Inched our way across one spot where our depth finder went ballistic buzzing with less than 2' under the keel. 

Birds, channel markers and marshes.  Typical GA  AICW

Finally arrived at Vernon River around 4:15. We've anchored here several times before but normally around the bend where there's a bit more protection.  Made sense on past trips when we anchored for several days due to bad weather.  Just a SSE breeze and a one night stay so we decided to drop anchor in the main channel and swing with the tide.   Yet again, we have the anchorage all to ourselves.

Sunset to the west

Full moon rising to the east

Journey for April 5, 2023

April 3 and 4, 2023 Fernandina to Plum Orchard to S. Altamaha River

Monday April 3, 2023  Fernandina Beach to Plum Orchard Plantation/Cumberland Island

Released the mooring ball at 8:45 and headed over to Port Consolidated.  It's a fueling wharf just down from the marina.  Almost always has the lowest diesel prices in Florida.  Hadn't ever stopped here before but will make it a point going forward.  Sign a waiver you're heading across the St. Mary's Sound into GA. and forego Fl. tax.  Took on 460 gallons at the best price we've seen in a long time.  Just $3.27/gal.!! Off their dock at 9:45 for a short cruise.  Crossing St. Mary Sound was a non-event.  Not much wind today so waters were very placid.  Then around past the entrance to Kings Bay and the submarine base.   First time we've passed there where we didn't see any patrol boats out.  Apparently, no subs at the base or preparing to enter.   Went past our normal anchorage on Cumberland Island at the Sea Camp and Dungeness ruins and proceeded up to the East River/ Buckhill River and anchored aside  the landing for Plum Orchard Plantation.  Arrived by noon so had time for some lunch.  Then deployed the dingy and headed to the park dock.  Plum Orchard Plantation is another of the Carnegie Estates.  This one has been preserved by the National Park Service and has guided tours at 11,1,and 2.  We just missed the 2 o'clock tour so will hit it Tues.  Walked around a bit.  House is big from the outside.  No wild horses on site.  Just evidence scattered around the grounds that they pass through. 

At anchor off Plum Orchard Plantation

Journey for April 3, 2023

Tues.  April 4, 2023  Plum Orchard to S. Altamaha River.

The no-see-ums have been eating us alive since the wind died down at Fernandina on Sunday.  Continued over here at Plum Orchard.  Martha seems to be getting the worst of it.  Doesn't seem to matter which of the multiple bugs sprays we utilize.  They are ferocious.  Hope we can get away from them but seems doubtful as we will be passing through marshlands for days.   Despite the bugs we still went back to tour the plantation.  Caught the 11 AM tour with a group of boy scouts from Athens.  Main house built in 1898.  Wing additions added later.  Quite a place for the time of construction.  National Park Service owns and maintains it so not a showpiece like the Biltmore House in Asheville, but enough to get the essence of the place, people and time. 

Plum Orchard Plantation

Finally saw some horses on Cumberland as we were leaving

Abandoned lighthouse at north end of Cumberland

Back to the boat for some late lunch then a rare afternoon cruise start.  We needed to time the tides for getting around Jekyll Island which has some low water needing dredged.  Anchor up at 3:15.  Passed by Jekyll at 5:30 with a 2'+ rising tide and sufficient water.  Across St. Simons Sound and a chance to blow out the engines and run them up to full speed.  Then around that island and finally a leisurely meandering cruise through marshland.  Pulled into S. Altamaha River  and dropped anchor as the sun was setting. 

Anchor went down just before the sun went down

Journey for April 4, 2023

April 2, 2023 Fernandina Beach

 Sunday  April 2, 2023  Fernandina Beach

So we took a mooring ball here in Fernandina Beach on Thursday.  Thought we would just stay a night and move on.   Weather looks wonderful, sunny and low to mid 80's but the wind has been howling outside our go/no-go parameters.  We decided to stay put but haven't felt comfortable trying to drop the dingy in 20-30mph winds and associated wave action to head into town.   So, we've been boat bound.  Catching up on the blog and getting some reading done. Not uncomfortable but we've gotten bounced around a bit since the anchorage is somewhat exposed. At least the mooring has been secure and relatively inexpensive.   Wind direction has changed from NE to SW and that's put the ever-present smell of the papermill directly on us.   Funny thing about Fernandina.  Old shrimping/fishing town so there's that.  Then add the papermill to put odors over the top.  The locals don't seem to mind and the town has survived with the beach resorts and a cute downtown for tourists. 

Those aren't sand dunes behind the shrimp boats.
Piles of wood chips to feed the paper mill

The wind finally laid down Sunday so we dropped the dink and headed to town.  Needed to get our land legs back!   Nice town to walk around.  Lots of historical markers. Well preserved older homes. Shops and restaurants a plenty.  Now has 3 breweries within walking distance.  We made it to First Love Brewery and Amelia Island Brewing Company.  Mocama Beer Company will need to wait until our next visit.

First Love Flight

AIBC Flight and a little something to eat.
Roasted Brussel sprouts in a chili glaze and pickled onions

Tourist town, tourist shops, had to buy something

Restaurant selections get limited on Sunday. I had been checking restaurants and reviews while shipbound. Had my heart set on trying Wicked Bao - Asian Fusion cuisine.  Menu looked awesome. Unfortunately, closed on Sundays.   Second choice was Timoti's Seafood. Can't go wrong with that at the beach.  Open when we walked past mid day, but closed when we went back around 4. Seems they close at 3 on Sunday!! Wound up with a wood fired pizza.  Not bad, just not our first pick.

Got back to the boat and watched the evening show of dolphins.   There's a pack of them that come through every night about an hour before dark.  They play and surface around the anchored boats with the big tourist filled pontoon boat chasing them down for pictures. Good way to end the day.

Dolphins!!   Always good to see them. 
But more fun to watch them playing in our wake.

Perfect end to their weekend. 
 Tiki hut, boat ride, bar drinks, sunset, dolphin watching.