June 1, 2026 Back in South Carolina

 Monday June 1, 2026   Vernon River to Toogoodoo Creek  109 miles and 11.5 hours

Some rain overnight but mostly just a light breeze coupled with the switching of the tides creating a gentle tug on the anchor line. Made for a decent night's sleep, but up early again for a 7 AM departure.   Left the three sailboats that joined our anchorage last night still on the hook as we motored away.  Overcast and a bit hazy to start.  Forecast was updated overnight and now calls for a mostly cloudy day with possible rain towards evening (which of course would mean while we'll be anchoring).  

Our neighbors at anchor on Vernon River on a hazy morning start

Covered a lot of ground today.  Couple hours to get us around Savannah and across the river into SC.   We were joined by two Looper boats who traveled with us until Beaufort.  One was kind enough to send us a few pictures they took as we passed them. Meander a bit more around Daufuskie Island and then finally work our way past Hilton Head Island. 

Thanks to AVONTUUR for the picture

 

Summer sailing regatta forming as we pass HHI

Cross over Port Royal Sound and on to Beaufort. Then across St. Helena Sound.  We hit the Ashepoo Coosaw Cut at absolute low tide and with the severe shoaling at the entrance it's a no-go for us.  We detour further out the sound and take an alternate route up the Ashepoo River proper alongside Fenwick Island.  Thankfully, the ocean was behaving as we headed well out into it before being able to turn around and head up the river.  Couple more areas with skinny water we still need to navigate.  Fenwick Cut and Watts Cutt require due diligence, but surprisingly the sun actually came out for a bit.  After spending hours traveling, at this point it requires plenty of diligence from both of us.  

A quick glance of sunshine in between the clouds

Dolphins were scattered around today.  Usually just a couple at a time but they seemed pretty intent on surfing out wake waves rather than riding the bow.  Only other big wildlife sighting today was a bald eagle.  Just hanging in a tree on a little island aside the ICW. 

Finally, out of the shallow areas and onto the Edisto River.   Almost home waters for us with Wadmalaw and Johns islands ahead.   We head up the Toogoodoo River to anchor.  Stayed here multiple times on previous transits.  Always a good spot.  Nice and wide with plenty of swing room and depths are reasonable requiring a shorter anchor line scope.   In settled weather like tonight, we anchor near the ICW but if there's strong winds we can head further upstream where the tree lines provide nice protection.  Overall, a long day anchor up at 7 AM and back down at 6:30 PM.                                   Side Note: Today marks 10 years of retirement for John! 

Journey for June 1, 2026

May 31, 2026 FINALLY, Back on the water

Sunday May 31, 2026.  Brunswick Landing Marina to Vernon River Anchorage                       89 miles and 10 Hours

During my last visit with the orthopedic surgeon following up on my thumb issue, he felt things were sufficiently healed that traveling would be OK.   Just need to tape it up twice a day to compress the swelling and work on some flexibility exercises. After that unplanned month long delay, we finally left the dock today after having the boat docked for three months here at Brunswick Landing Marina. 

680 miles to Norfolk, then up the Chesapeake to Baltimore

Weather for last week and this coming week have been loaded with rainy forecasts. Despite having 70-90 percent chance of rain most days, the reality has been cloudy with an occasional shower or downpour but no long sustained rainfall.  So, it was no surprise when we woke up to a dreary cloudy day.  Off the dock at 7 AM. Working the tides so we have decent water at two critical areas.  Need to hit Mud River around 10:30 to get through there at high water.  Then time the start of an incoming tide at the end of the day while crossing Hell Gate.

Leaving the marine.  Loaded with a huge number of sailing catamarans 

Passing under the Sidney Lanier Bridge shrouded in low level clouds

Scenery is all coastal Georgia marshes and islands.  The ICW constantly winding around in every possible course heading.  Much more enjoyable on a sunny day running from the flybridge than on a dreary day running from inside.  Not too many other boats out.  The primary migration of northbound boaters is over so just a few boats coming and going.  Passing a tug with a single barge was the highlight of commercial traffic while Martha thought a blue hulled Sabre down east style boat that passed us on the way back to Massachusetts looked like a good candidate for our next boat.

Marshland and occasional islands along the ICW

Trying to stay ahead of the rainstorm

We were surprised at the lack of dolphin sightings for most of the trip.  That was until we hit Creighton Narrows and marker 155.  Not sure why they were all congregated here but there were dozens on hand and all willing to take turns playing in our wake or at the bow.   Great photo opportunity. Always makes me wonder what they are thinking as they swim on their side with one eye looking up at me while I'm   looking down at them.  

Amazing at how effortlessly they glide along in front of the boat

Made it safely to our anchorage without going aground or getting hit by any heavy rain.  Hope we'll be as lucky tomorrow.  Boat ran flawlessly.  All equipment running normal temperatures during our every 2-hour engine room checks.  Overall, a good successful day to start this trip. We'll need more like this in order to hit that expected June 15 arrival in Baltimore. 

Journey for May 31, 2026

May 2026 Long Overdue Update

Nov 2025 - May 2026   Maintenance Projects, Winter Storage, Delayed Start

We crossed over the 4000 engine hour mark during our Down East cruise so made plans with Marine Propulsion to have some service work done over the holidays.  They've been good caretakers of our Yanmar engines doing the required service at the 2000 and 3000 hour intervals. It had been several years since our last bottom paint job so that made the list along with pulling the props and getting them reconditioned.  Inspection of the cutlass bearings showed a bit of wear so time to replace them too. All this was pretty much expected.  

Shiny reconditioned props reinstalled

Our big surprise came with the exhaust system.  I had noticed a very slight weeping leak at a seam on the stainless steel exhaust mixing tube - just an occasional drip of water.  Didn't make much of it when we were primarily in fresh water back in 2024, but with salt water travels in 2025 I was getting a crusty salt crystal buildup at this pinhole plus additional salt crusting on the actual fiberglass exhaust tube.  Asked them to look it over and it turned into a significant project. The fiberglass exhaust tube had some hairline cracks which needed ground out and repaired. The bigger issue wound up being the exhaust risers and stainless mixers. They were removed, sent to a specialty shop in Florida with hopes it could simply be repaired.  No such luck.  Needed to custom fabricate new units for both engines!! Added an extra month and a half to our stay which put us well behind schedule for a hopeful trip to the Keys and Bahama over the winter. Guess that trip will wait yet another year.  Boat was up on the hard most of this time, so it gave us a chance to clean the moustache off the bow and get a couple coats of wax on the hull.  With the engine room in total disarray, it was nice to at least see the outside looking proper.  

New exhaust riser and mixer assembly installed

ICW moustache being removed and hull waxed

After 5 months in the yard and an eye watering service bill we finally got the boat back at the beginning of March. Boat ran awesome on our trip down the ICW bringing it to Brunswick Landing Marina.  No problems reaching WOT and top end speed.  

Cap'n Martha taking us past Isle of Hope
on the way to Brunswick Landing Marina

With the trip to the keys postponed, we had planned to store the boat at Brunswick Landing for 2 months and then begin heading north for the summer.  In celebration of the nation's 250th there is an international Tall Ship celebration touring 5 east coast cities.  One of the stops is Baltimore and we made reservations for a month-long stay at Anchorage Marina mid-June through mid-July to be there for the show.  Started going over all our ships systems in April in anticipation of our departure and realized the stabilizers were not functioning properly.  Instead of staying in the centered position when activated the actuators were getting a signal to push the cylinder outward thereby moving the fins away from center.  A little research determined Craig Calkin at Stabilized Marine was the man to call for technical support for a Naiad system.  He was able to walk me through numerous adjustments in the ECU control box that helped resolve the centering issue but, in that process, we determined there were wear issues with the actuator and rod end.  

Actuator (yellow circle) located on outboard side of hull required
 lying flat across space in front of engine to access

He sent specialty tools required to remove the actuator.  We sent the actuator to him for a rebuild and new tie rods and pins.  They came back with additional specialty tools for installation.  A bunch of hard work in very confined and uncomfortable positions but satisfying to finally get it all done.  After coaching me through some final finetuning of the ECU things were set perfectly.  All done on Sunday April 26 with everything back together and all Craigs tools shipped back to him. Figured we would be ready for a May 1 departure.  

Well, not so fast.  During the installation of the starboard side actuator, I bumped my right thumb.  Just a little sore and a miniscule cut on the top of my thumb at the knuckle.  Washed it, put on a band aid and proceeded with my work.   Nothing over the weekend except a little sore. But by Monday afternoon my thumb and hand were swelling.  That small cut had gotten infected and was getting out of control.  Trip to urgent care on Tuesday for antibiotics, x-rays and an appointment with an Orthopedic hand specialist the following Monday. Unfortunately, things continued getting worse so back to urgent care on Thursday for a different antibiotic and an attempt at lancing it.  Still no progress so decided to head to the ER on Saturday.  More x-rays.  Another unsuccessful attempt at lancing and reaffirmation to get to the hand specialist Monday.   Appointment on Monday 10 AM.  Doctor looks it over, we discuss what happened, what's been done so far and review all the x-rays.  Good news - nothing bad showing on x-rays but finger is in bad shape.  Having unsuccessful attempts at lancing twice it is now time for "nuclear option". 

Infected thumb prior to surgery. I'll spare you the after surgery pictures.

 Cut the finger open, clean it all out, explore down to the knuckle to make sure no infection got to it.  Sew it all back up (9 stitches) and get put on yet another different antibiotic. Thankfully they were able to fit me into the surgery schedule that day.  Bad news - "Don't even think about going near salt or brackish water for several weeks until wound heals up and we're sure there's no more infection."  First call when back home is to Brunswick Landing to extend our slip reservation for another month. Things are healing and we're hopeful to still get on our way by the end of May.  If the weather gods look favorably on us and we do some long travel days we should still get to Baltimore in time for the Tall Ships celebration.

Amazing sunsets over the marshes as seen from the yard at Marine Propulsion 

Oct. 29-30, 2025 One Last Anchorage and then on to Charleston

 

Wed. Oct. 29, 2025   Harborwalk Marina to Awendaw Creek Anchorage   34 miles and 4 hours

Nice layover in Georgetown.  Weather was a bit dismal with rain and winds, but got to walk around town a few times for some exercise.  Needed that after we loaded up with pastries at Indigo Bakery.  Georgetown had/has a reputation with boaters.  Praised for its quaint historic nature but also despised due to the constant shoaling and their two waterfront industries.  A steel mill that was super noisy all night long and a papermill with its unique smell if the wind was blowing in the wrong direction.  The steel mill had been in financial turmoil for years going through several owners but has finally shuttered and was in the process of demolition.   It was recently announced the paper mill was also closing. In an already economically challenged area it will be interesting to see how the town adjusts and what redevelopment activities occur on these waterfront properties.  

Short trip today.  Rains finished up overnight but still overcast.  Off the docks at 10 allowing for a bit of incoming tide.  Depth alarm only sounds a few times as we cross the shoaling harbor entrance.  Run down Winyah Bay to the entrance of the ICW canal.   Uneventful day as we pass through the marshes and conservation areas that once were thriving indigo and rice fields.  Pass a couple sailboats headed south.  Get through the notorious shoaling at McClellanville thanks to the added depth of the 3' tide we're riding.  

Seeing more dolphins like this one that went body surfing on our side wake. 
 Martha said it was very photogenic. Laying on its side and smiling up at her.

This is SC shrimping territory. We've seen huge old wooden shrimpers
 to more modest draggers like this one.

Then a turn off into Awendaw Creek to anchor.  Stayed here on a previous trip.  Good holding but a bit of an exposed area with nothing but marsh surrounding us.  We'll get moved about in every possible direction due to the changing tidal current and swapping wind directions. At least winds are forecast to be relatively light.  We're the first boat in but are soon followed by one of the sailboats we passed earlier.  Should be interesting to see how many more boats anchor as it's a fairly well documented anchorage. Couple more boats do pull in before dark.  One sailboat anchored a bit too close ahead of us.  Even he realized it and moved further away.  This is a huge anchorage area so not sure why the two guys on board felt the need to be so close other than they appeared to be somewhat inexperienced.

A break in the clouds just as the sun started to set

Sunshine was really having to fight its way through the clouds

Journey for Oct. 29, 2025

Thurs. Oct. 30, 2025   Awendaw Creek to St. Johns Yacht Harbor  39 miles and 4.5 hours

Well, the wind did change direction to full westerly with sustained 15 and gusts to 25 overnight. So much for forecasts. Those strong winds are now expected to continue all day.  With wind at our bow and the boat horsing around retrieving the anchor took a bit more powered maneuvering than usual but the anchor came up surprisingly clean.  

Sunny, breezy and cool morning as we prep to raise anchor and head out Awendaw Creek 

Once into the protection of the tree lined ICW the cruising was pretty smooth.  Late start as it's another short cruise and our plan is to catch the rising tide.  Historically a few shallow spots develop in this section of the ICW.  Apparently they have been doing some dredging, but we still hit several areas with thin water and just 3' under the keel.  But even the notoriously shoaled area at the Ben Sawyer Bridge was a non-event for this passage.   Just a little drama as we approach Isle of Palms.  The sailboat Shally, whom we've leapfrogged several times over the past few days, is hailing the Coast Guard.  Just as they turned the ICW corner at the north entrance to the Isle of Palms channel their engine quit.  Dropped anchor but are now sitting sideways mid channel.  Luckily they are just past the start of the No Wake zone, but they are frantically radioing warnings to boats headed towards them. to please slow down and pass at their stern to avoid tripping their anchor line. SeaTow is on the way to assist and the CG is broadcasting messages warning boaters of the situation. They are a long way from home with a Toronto hailing port. For us it's a good reminder of the importance of keeping the mechanical systems running properly and why we'll be putting the boat up for routine maintenance while in Charleston. After passing Isle of Palms we head out into the open white capped waters of Charleston Harbor.  

The Ravenel Bridge  in Charleston as seen from the Isle of Palms channel

Snotty bit of white capped water while crossing Charleston Harbor

With the winds up we fully expected this open water crossing to be wet and bouncy.  We get on our NW heading and waves and spray immediately start coming over the bow of my recently washed boat.  Increase power and she settles into a nice pace at 2100 rpm and 15 mph. Smooth ride and no more water spray over the bow.   Soon we're passing by Charleston, the battery, the megadock and heading for Elliotts Cut.   The run through the cut is easy as we're approaching high tide and the current through the cut is running in our direction. We get a good 3 knot push and are ejected out into the Stono River with St. Johns Yacht Harbor visible to our south.  

Working our way up Ashley River and past the Battery 

We arrive about 2 hours before slack tide which is when we want to maneuver into our slip.  We get permission to do a side tie to the outside of a T head to wait.  But the winds are gusting to 30+ and are fully on our beam on the side we're trying to dock against.  We have about 60' of dock to tie against and a large catamaran behind the space.   With current running at the bow and the wind blowing us away from the dock it takes 3 attempts before we can get successfully secured thanks to the help of multiple dock hands.  Normally on a day with winds outside our normal go-no go criteria we would just stay put.  But we have reservations already in place for the marina and a rental car. That whole "being on a schedule thing" shows up.  Thankfully, other than being frustrated with my boat handling skills we're secured for now.  Next up is waiting for the 4:15 slack tide so we can move into our actual slip.   I opt to drive from the flybridge where I can feel the wind better and also have better visibility to the corners of the boat.  It goes better and with the benefit of some judicious use of the throttles we quickly spin the boat in the fairway and back into our slip.  Dockhands do a great job securing lines quickly and we're settled in for our week stay. SJYH has done a massive expansion under new ownership, and we are on the new docks on the south side of the bridge.  Feels like we're a world away from the office, pool, showers, etc. Only a couple other boats out here with us. Amazing how large this marina has gotten over the years since we first stored the original As You Wish here before looping. 

Sun setting over the marshes behind St. Johns Yacht Harbor 

While the moon and last of the fading sun shines on As You Wish

This was our last real travel day for the current phase of this trip.  Time for 1000 hour service work on the engines. Crazy to think we've put over 1200 hours on the boat since buying it!   We'll get a rental car and head home.  Bring our car back and drop it at Marine Propulsion and then bring the boat around to them next week.    No rush to get the boat back at this point.  We've got dentist and doctor appointments and the holidays to keep us busy for the next couple months at home.  And of course, we need to make plans for our next boating adventure.

Journey for Oct. 30, 2025

Oct. 24-26, 2025 Almost Home - Stops Along the Way in South Carolina

Friday Oct. 24, 2025   Carolina Beach to Lightkeepers Marina  53 miles and 6.3 hours

Carolina Beach Municipal Marina wound up being a great location for us to stop.   Docks were solid and new.  Fixed price at $85/ night is a bargain for us - not so much for a 30' boat on a price per foot basis.  Nice to be able to just walk off the boat versus dingy over from the mooring field.  Would definitely stop here again. Would become a prime spot if they had some facilities.  No real cruisers amenities - showers, bathrooms, laundry, etc. 

Colorful collection of artfully decorated buoys at the Carolina Beach dock

Right now we are into cruising areas we've crossed multiple times and covered in several previous blog posts, so not too much new to report.  We left the marina on the high tide.  Made it easy to get through the couple of shallow areas on Snows Cut.   Little bit of outgoing pull down the Cape Fear River.  Wind at our back, so smooth going.  

Shoreline along Snows Cut

High rise bridges make transiting this section of ICW easy.

Then into the protected ICW waters.  Again, developed waterfront and multiple center consoles out and about. Inlets at Folly and Shallotte with usual shoaling issues that once again require some extra attention, but navigation apps get us through without issue.  Make it past very familiar Little River Inlet and into South Carolina.   Then a short hop to Lightkeepers Marina for the night.   Had parked the boat here in 2023 for several months, so nice to see some familiar faces.

Journey for Oct. 14, 2025

Saturday Oct. 25, 2025   Lightkeepers Marina to Wacca Wache Marina  39 miles and 4.7 hours

Wacca Wache Marina has the best fuel price between Norfolk and Florida, so had been planning a stop there.  Decided to just make a reservation for the night.  Never stayed here overnight before but always hear good things about it and the on-site restaurant. Usual uninspiring ride through the developments around Myrtle Beach.  This is "The Ditch" where it's just a cut through the land. Includes the infamous "Rockpile" section where it's even narrower with solid rock outcroppings.  Prefer going through on a low tide when I can see the rock ledges, but we 're still on the high tide so just make sure we stay mid channel.  Finally make it past the Socastee Swing Bridge which feeds out into the less developed and much more scenic Waccamaw River section.  Natural wooded winding swamplands.  To us it's one of the most enjoyable sections of the ICW.  Make it to Wacca Wache early afternoon. Take on 250 gallons at the fuel dock then head for our slip.  Pretty decent food at the restaurant and a not so decent live band for entertainment.

Socastee Swing bridge harkens back to the days when all access to the beach
areas required crossing these type structures

Onto the natural wonders of the Waccamaw River

The river winds around adding to the feeling of seclusion

Drinks, dinner and music on the outdoor patio at Wacca Wache Marina

Journey for Oct. 25, 2025

Sunday Oct. 26, 2025  Wacca Wache Marina to Harborwalk Marina 21 miles and 3.3 hours

Next stop is Georgetown, SC and Harborwalk Marina.  Another new place to stay.  We've been to Georgetown before, but typically had just anchored in the basin.   We're here for three nights as forecast calls for rain and strong winds on Monday and Tuesday and wanted to be securely tied up with easier access to town.  Cast our lines at 10AM planning a very slow cruise to arrive at Harborwalk at 1PM.  Last of the natural wooded areas before the more open section of the Waccamaw River as it feeds out into Winyah Bay. 

Martha enjoying the fresh air on the flybridge.

Scenic and calm watrs as we enjoy the last of the natural Waccamaw

Spanish moss in the trees along the shore tell us we're getting closer to home in GA

Hard turn to starboard up the Sampit River to town.  Shoaling at the entrance is as bad as ever.  Plans in place for possible spring 2026 dredging which can't come soon enough.  Showing 3' under the keel at high tide.    With a 3-4' tidal range her we'll need to time our departure or else we'll be pushing our way through the pluff mud.  Georgetown is a small historic town.  Third oldest town in SC.  One of the early recognized entry ports in SC.  Rice and indigo plantations during its early years.   Still has many historic homes and a nice main street with galleries, shops, restaurants.  New addition is a brewery and the upscale waterfront George Hotel at the marina.  Unique layout at the marina with 2 longer docks parallel to the shoreline.  Our slip was on the shoreside dock wedged between two other boats.  Required some interesting reverse docking maneuvers to get in there, but with no wind...we looked like pros!

Resident in town goes all out decorating for Halloween

Where do you find skeletons to do the 4 Horsemen of the Apocalypse?

Great spot at Harborwalk Marina right off the lawn of the new George Hotel

Journey for Oct. 26, 2025