June 5, 2026 Onward to Beaufort, NC and a Short Respit

 Friday  June 5, 2026  Wrightsville Beach to Homer Smith Marina   83 miles and 9.2 hours

One nice advantage of cruising this time of year is the long hours of daylight.  First light is 5:30, sunrise at 6, sunset at 8:15, and last light at 8:45. If we had the stamina we could cruise for 14 hours in daylight and cover a lot more miles.  Today we simply used that early morning daylight to allow for an early departure to get to the Wrightsville Bridge for the 7 AM opening.  From 7AM to 7 PM they only open on the hour, and we wanted to get gone before the 8 AM opening.   So, anchor was up and on deck by 6:20. Made it to the bridge about 6:40.  Hailed the bridgetender with a request for an opening and expecting him to notify us of the need to wait until 7. Taken aback when he opened "on demand" as we were there before 7AM.  The bridgetender here has a somewhat bad reputation so maybe we just caught the night shift tender and it's the daytime one with the attitude.  In any case, made for a pleasant start to the day.  Short cruise up to Figure Eight Island Bridge. Clearance of 20' but some extra as we're coming through at low tide. The ICW tends to be wider here and slightly less developed so only a few true "no wake" zones to slow us down. 

Figure Eight Island Bridge. Drop the VHF antenna and we squeeze under it.

. 

Remember when rental beach houses were simpler affairs
 and having A/C wasn't even guaranteed.

The times sure have changed with everyone going bigger and outdoing their neighbors

 We're able to get under higher bascule bridges and the high-rise permanent bridges with the exception of the Onslow Beach Bridge. Seems dumb that they just put in a new replacement lift bridge with a mere 16' clearance and are maintaining their opening schedule of only on the top and bottom of the hour. We time our arrival for the 11:30 opening. This area of the ICW is cutting through Camp Lejeune.  There are times the area is closed off due to military training, but not today.  Strict rules due to unexploded ordinances.  No landing on the base, no landing on the beaches, no anchoring, no bottom fishing.  Just want to make sure no one accidentally goes "BOOM"!  Of course we see violations of all these regulations as we pass through. 

Mile Hammock anchorage at Camp Lejeune.  A good spot we've used in the past. 
We bypass it today and keep on moving.

Always some kind of interesting activity at the base.

Targets still sitting on the beach - just to reinforce they do live target practices

Passing through Sneads Ferry area and slow down for a boat being pushed towards shore.  Happy to see it's actually a work crew removing a derelict vessel. Abandoned boats have become more of an issue over the years.  An eyesore, a navigational hazard, and an environmental risk.  Thankfully grant moneys are being made more readily available for their removal and disposal. 

One of several derelict boats we learned were being removed

Part of the local fleet still in good working order

Blue heron strolling the shallows looking for a quick bite

Locals also strolling the shallows on a spoils island along Bogue Sound

On to Swansboro and then through the long stretch of Bogue Sound.  Lots of center consoles out and about buzzing up and down around us as we approach Morehead City and Beaufort.   This is a big week here.  The 68th Annual Big Rock Marlin Tournament starts Saturday.   $4.7MM in prize money.  Raises over $1MM for local charities. This tournament is known world-wide with top teams spending $300M-$400M over the week on entry fees and operating costs. We're just glad Homer Smith Marina was able to fit us in for a 2-night stay.   After multiple long cruising days and multiple nights on the hook it was time for a little break.  We love this marina.  Nice new facilities.  Great bathrooms for a much enjoyed long hot shower, Captains lounge with recliner couches that are more comfortable than ours at home.  Becoming a rarity but they even have a nice courtesy car.  So a quick grocery run is in the plans along with a visit to the local craft brewery! 

Sportfishing crew behind us at the dock.  Back in for the day and prepping for
an early departure tomorrow. Prime marlin grounds are 40 miles offshore.

Sunset casting a warm glow on the Fairform Flyer next to us. 
Old school classic boats still custom built in Jacksonville, FL

Journey for June 5, 2026

June 4, 2026 Made it to North Carolina

 Thursday June 5, 2026  Lightkeepers Marina to Wrightsville Beach   63 miles and 7 hours

Thought we would be the first ones out of the marina this morning, but S/V Phoenix beat us.  They were out at 6:40AM with us not too far behind at 7:05. No matter - we passed them during the day although they also came into anchorage at Wrightsville - just about an hour after us. Even at our slow trawler speed, power boat speed is greater then sailboat speed. On the downside, I'm sure he used much less diesel fuel than us,

Leaving Lightkeepers Marina on a gorgeous sunny morning

Not our longest day but nothing overly memorable.   Ran the ICW behind all the NC vacation beach islands.   Sunset, Ocean Isle, Holden and Oak.   All developed along these waters but at least everyone understands it's not a perpetual no wake zone. Just house after house, dock after dock, boat lift after boat lift and center console boat after center console boat. Only point of interest were the seafood shacks and shrimp boats at Holden Beach.

Seems like these shrimpers should be out tending their nets on a day like this

Always get a kick out of the shark on the wall at this seafood shack

Finally, a day worthy of driving from the flybridge!!

Still haven't decided which is worse - the jet skiers or the go fast boats

Made it to Southport and onto the Cape Fear River.  Had a rising tide which gave us a bit of a boost up the river and through Snows Cut to Carolina Beach.  Arrived way too early to make that our destination for the day so passed by brother Pete's neighborhood and docks and continued on to Wrightsville Beach.  Gives us a long but doable day tomorrow headed to Beaufort, NC.   

Brother Pete's neighborhood dock.  Is that you waving to us???

Anchorage is busy.  Several sailboats already anchored but we managed to set our anchor between them.  Leisurely afternoon just chilling for a bit.  We're anchored across from the sailing club so got a bit of a regatta display after dinner while enjoying the evening breeze up on the flybridge.   Then watched the sun disappear over the horizon to finish the day.   

Sunfish class sailboats.

Another class of bigger boats with main and jib sails

As the sun was setting it created a brilliant red glow
 on the windows across from the anchorage

First real sunset of the trip.

Journey for June 4, 2026

June 3, 2026 Sunny cruise to Myrtle Beach

 Wednesday June 3, 2026  Duck Creek to Lightkeepers Marina  71 miles and 8.2 hours

WOW!.  Wild winds in the middle of the night but the anchor held steady and the breeze through the portlights kept the stateroom nice and cool.   Would definitely use this anchorage again.  Woke up to gorgeous blue skies and sunshine. Winds will continue from the NE but down to 10-20.  With temps hitting 80, sort of a perfect day.    Anchor up once again at 7AM.

Pelican hunting for his breakfast on a beautiful morning on Duck Creek 

Quick cruise out the balance of the protected ICW and onto Winyah Bay.  Little bit of a wind driven chop on the bow but no issues for us. Catch a rising tide all the way up the bay and even most of the day up the Waccamaw River. Lower Waccamaw continues to be a favorite cruising area.  Just a couple hours of cruising through tannin stained water that meanders through wooded swamp lands loaded with osprey nests on every channel marker.   We made it up to WaccaWache Marina for our first stop of the day.  Time to load up on diesel. Took on 400 gallons at the best price on the east coast - $4.69 /gallon!!

Headed up the Waccamaw River

Fledgling osprey waiting for mom to return with some food

Socastee Swing Bridge is one of only a few remaining swing bridges we need to hail for an opening, Amazing the vehicle traffic this little bridge gets considering they put high rise bridge right next to it.  We have about a 10 minute wait while another boat catches up to us. "No Shoes Daze" is another looper.  Big 47' Leopard power cat with a 24' beam.  

Waiting on the Socastee Swing bridge to open

No Shoes Daze is one wide bodied power catamaran

The area north of Socastee continues to see lots of shoreside development all the way to Myrtle Beach. Sort of sad as we remember when all of this was tranquil forested shoreline.  Now just one huge house next to another all with docks expecting you to idle past them.  Will eventually make this a very long slow passage.  One of these days the trip from Southport to Brunswick all offshore may be the way to go as long as weather will cooperate. 

Shoreline development along "The Ditch". 

"No Shoes Daze" stayed behind us through the developed areas.  We suspect they may have wanted to follow us through the "rockpile" - a narrow channel cut through solid rock.  We were at high tide so only a few places showed the ledges, but depths weren't an issue for us.   Made it to the other swing bridge requiring opening for us at Little River.  The sailboat "Phoenix" we had met yesterday was waiting for an opening. Turned out all three of us were headed to Coquina Harbor for the night.  Dockmaster Lex helped us get tied up by 4pm.  We've stayed here several times and always get a warm welcoming even is only for a night.   Good friend Bob Ellington on "Galiponte" had just returned from Florida so we got a chance for a quick hello and family catchups before heading back to the boat for a needed washdown to remove all that crusted salt from crossing Charleston Harbor.  

View of Coquina Harbor.  Home to Lightkeepers Marina and Myrtle Beach Yacht Club

Journey for June 3, 2026

June 2, 2026 Leaving Charleston behind

 Tuesday June 2, 2026  Toogoodoo Creek to Duck Creek  80 miles and 9.2 hours

Weather forecast is finally improving - sort of.   Cloudy morning making way to a sunny afternoon.  Rain has been chased out by a front.  That front is bringing cooler weather, and strong E and NE winds.  Pretty sustained at 15mph, with gusts to 25.  Wind expected to continue through Wednesday.  Not much of an issue for us as we'll be cruising on mostly protected ICW waters. Crossing Charleston Harbor being the exception.

Dawn breaks with the promise of potential sunshine

Anchor up again at 7AM. Sort of becoming our routine as we try for these longer cruising days.  Uneventful cruise around Wadmalaw and Johns Island.   Normal landmarks slip on by.  Stephens Towing complex is servicing bigger and bigger commercial vessels.   Coast Guard Cutter Brnard Webber is tied to the docks today.   Then pass Ross Marine where their new boat storage rack is completely filled with center consoles.  Apparently a good and profitable business decision.  Catch almost slack tide as we enter Elliotts Cut.  Can be treacherous is you catch it at full current but drama free going for us today.  

USCG Cutter Brnard Webber at Stephens Boatyard

View from astern as we make our way out of Elliots Cut

Under the Wappoo Creek Bridge and we're done with the cut

Then out into Charleston Harbor.  Check out the mega yachts tied up along the mega dock and then pass by the historic houses fronting the battery.  Time to cross the harbor. Waves are starting to build but not too bad as we're primarily heading into them. But the wind driven spray keeps the windshield wipers busy and puts a nice covering of salt over the entire boat. Now off the harbor and tucked in the protection behind Isle of Palms. Water levels are good as they've done some dredging since our last time through. Then just a few hours of cruising through SC saltmarsh. 

Mega yachts lined up. Impressive eye candy.

A few houses on The Battery

Corp of Engineers survey boat crossing our path while collecting data 

Sunshine finally showed up 

Original plan was to use the anchorage at Awendaw Creek.  Used it in the past. Last decent anchorage before the shallow waters around McClellanville.  However, as we were approaching, we had several shrimp boats pass us southbound.  They obviously had made it thru the shallows, so we decided to give it a go. 

Southbound shrimping trawler Lady Barbara and her captain 

Going through about 2 hours before low tide which put about an extra foot and a half of added water above low tide.   Eased our way through the 4 stretches of skinniest water.  Depth sounder alarm letting us know repeatedly we had less than 3' under the keel. Never made it to my personal pucker factor of showing less than 2' and dropping! Got through it and were able to make a few more miles today.   On a past trip we had anchored in Minim Creek.  A good anchorage but a bit exposed.   Found one nearby called Duck Creek which reviews said offered good protection from north winds due to a nice tree line. Got the anchor set at 4:30 which allowed time to relax a bit and cook a real meal.  Sautéed chicken and mushrooms in an alfredo sauce over pasta.   A nice change from the last 2 nights of sandwiches.  Looking forward to a good night's sleep with cooler temperatures and a nice breeze.

Sunset from Duck Creek anchorage

Journey for June 2, 2026

June 1, 2026 Back in South Carolina

 Monday June 1, 2026   Vernon River to Toogoodoo Creek  109 miles and 11.5 hours

Some rain overnight but mostly just a light breeze coupled with the switching of the tides creating a gentle tug on the anchor line. Made for a decent night's sleep, but up early again for a 7 AM departure.   Left the three sailboats that joined our anchorage last night still on the hook as we motored away.  Overcast and a bit hazy to start.  Forecast was updated overnight and now calls for a mostly cloudy day with possible rain towards evening (which of course would mean while we'll be anchoring).  

Our neighbors at anchor on Vernon River on a hazy morning start

Covered a lot of ground today.  Couple hours to get us around Savannah and across the river into SC.   We were joined by two Looper boats who traveled with us until Beaufort.  One was kind enough to send us a few pictures they took as we passed them. Meander a bit more around Daufuskie Island and then finally work our way past Hilton Head Island. 

Thanks to AVONTUUR for the picture

 

Summer sailing regatta forming as we pass HHI

Cross over Port Royal Sound and on to Beaufort. Then across St. Helena Sound.  We hit the Ashepoo Coosaw Cut at absolute low tide and with the severe shoaling at the entrance it's a no-go for us.  We detour further out the sound and take an alternate route up the Ashepoo River proper alongside Fenwick Island.  Thankfully, the ocean was behaving as we headed well out into it before being able to turn around and head up the river.  Couple more areas with skinny water we still need to navigate.  Fenwick Cut and Watts Cutt require due diligence, but surprisingly the sun actually came out for a bit.  After spending hours traveling, at this point it requires plenty of diligence from both of us.  

A quick glance of sunshine in between the clouds

Dolphins were scattered around today.  Usually just a couple at a time but they seemed pretty intent on surfing out wake waves rather than riding the bow.  Only other big wildlife sighting today was a bald eagle.  Just hanging in a tree on a little island aside the ICW. 

Finally, out of the shallow areas and onto the Edisto River.   Almost home waters for us with Wadmalaw and Johns islands ahead.   We head up the Toogoodoo River to anchor.  Stayed here multiple times on previous transits.  Always a good spot.  Nice and wide with plenty of swing room and depths are reasonable requiring a shorter anchor line scope.   In settled weather like tonight, we anchor near the ICW but if there's strong winds we can head further upstream where the tree lines provide nice protection.  Overall, a long day anchor up at 7 AM and back down at 6:30 PM.                                   Side Note: Today marks 10 years of retirement for John! 

Journey for June 1, 2026