Oct. 9-12, 2026 Chillin' in Lewes

 Thursday, Oct. 9, 2026  

A big reason we wanted to stop in Lewes was to have the opportunity to personally visit with our financial advisors. So our first order of business once getting settled was a trip to their office. Smaller firm, great people, outstanding communications.   Had a wonderful visit with them and even took a few meals together during our stay.  Then spent the balance of the day - well over 3 hours giving the boat that much needed fresh water wash to remove all the saltwater residue we had accumulated. 

As You Wish looking rather spiffy now that she's all cleaned up!

Friday Oct. 10, 2026  

Another decision day due to weather.  We either need to leave Saturday or we'll need to stay put until Monday or Tuesday. Good travel day forecast for up the Delaware Bay Saturday, but we'd be cutting our touristy time in Lewes short.  If we don't go, then weather from the remnants of Hurricane Isaias will have rain and winds for several days. Town is very cute. We decide to stay put and use Friday to visit museums.  Historical Society and Zwaanendael House.  Lots of history here.  Because Lewes was the earliest settlement in the state, and Delaware was the first state to ratify the constitution, the town refers to itself as "The First Town in the First State".   A Dutch settlement and trading post was established here as far back as 1631 called Zwaanendael.  Back in 1931 during the tricentennial the state built the museum bearing that name in the style of Dutch city halls.  Neither the first, second or even third attempt at a settlement lasted over a year.  Not much actual history is known about these early settlements.  Museum does have a very rare Merman on display.  These were created by the Japanese for trade to foreigners when they first opened up their country. Basically, they made "creatures" using fish tails, wood bodies, duck legs, fish heads. etc. and passed them off as mummified mermaids.    Even P.T. Barnum had 2 of them on display in his show. 

Very ornate Zwaanendael Museum

This giant reel at the historical society was used to dry and repair menhaden nets.
 Workers walked the planks to rotate the reel

Numerous historical buildings such as the tavern in the foreground and shops
 in the background have been moved and assembled at the historical society property

 Land was eventually succeeded to the English by the late 1600's and a more permanent settlement ensued. Early years dominated by trade, fishing and shipbuilding. They also like to refer to the area as LSD - Lower, Slower, Delaware.  This is still primarily agricultural farm area and things happen at a slower pace. Location at entrance to Delaware Bay was also militarily significant and several forts were here.  Fort Miles was a critical coastal defense fort during WWII.  Large battery of guns to protect the entrance to Philly from Nazi ships and subs. It was also the home to a top-secret Navy listening post.  Menhaden fishery was a large employer for many years.  These are small fish processed for oil and then further processed for fertilizer.  At one time Lewes had the largest fish processing plant in the U.S. - all focused on menhaden.  Earned Lewes the nickname of "Stinkytown" due to the overwhelming odor from the plants. The ferry terminal is now home to that area. Overfishing killed the industry and the last plant closed in the 1960's.  With a nice calm sandy beach protected by Cape Henlopen and its proximity to Rehobeth Beach, Lewes worked to reinvent itself as a tourist town.  Wonderful downtown area full of shops and restaurants, nicely restored and maintained historic homes, good selection of museums.  Lewes in Bloom is an organization that has won numerous national and international awards for their efforts at planting and maintaining gardens throughout the downtown areas.  Lots of flowers still in bloom and fall decorations and plantings are now showing. 

Just a few of the displays around town sponsored by the "Lewes in Bloom" group

Saturday Oct. 11, 2026

Farmers Market Day.  The one here is very much a true farmers market.  None of the artsy, crafty vendors.  Need to be a local food-oriented business so there were numerous produce stands. Lots of root vegetables, hard squashes and gourds, pumpkins, greens, apples, last of the season tomatoes and sweet corn, honey, mushrooms, baked goods, beef, pork, chicken, eggs, microgreens, dairy, etc.  Loaded up a bag to refill the frig. Watched a bit of college football (Tigers not playing so at least we didn't lose again!) then headed over to the Maritime Museum area.  Main displays are the Overfall Lightship, a restored 10-oar Monomoy lifesaving boat and a restored U.S. Life Saving Station.  While the Monomoys were originally designed for Life Saving Stations, they became invaluable during WWII when huge numbers of ships and crew were being lost due to U-boat sinkings.  Started putting them on merchant marine supply ships as rescue vessels to minimize the severe shortage of seamen due to drownings. Nice waterfront park area with balance of the town docks, play areas, tennis/pickleball courts, etc.  

Restored Life Saving Station at maritime museum

Restored lightship

Monomoy lifesaving vessel courtesy of the US Merchant Marine Academy

Sunday Oct. 12, 2026  Remnants of Hurricane Isaias here all day.  Rainy and windy.  Not fit for anything but staying on board.  Jaguars football game from London was a morning game.  Very frustrating to watch, but the Jags finally pulled it off for the win with a field goal in the last seconds. Catching up with more blogging.  Then spent afternoon watching pre-recorded F1 sprint and full races from Singapore. Red Bull and Max Verstappen coming on strong mid-season but looks like Kimi Antonelli and Mercedes are locked in for the driver championship. 

Wet, rainy, dreary, windy day. Perfect for catching some TV time

Monday Oct. 13, 2026. Dang!! Almost have half the month behind us already.  November right around the corner.  Still rainy this morning and wind has swapped around to the north as the storm continues its track out of here.  Should dry out with decreasing winds for the balance of the day.  We head out for some breakfast. Rain has stopped by the time we're done so take a walk up and down local neighborhood streets looking at the architectural variety of the old houses.  

Original Marine Mercantile House 

Historical Society just renovated the "cannonball house". 
Hit by the British during the war of 1812

Cannon ball in foundation shows area of impact. 
The ball was actually lodged about 6' underground

Early Dutch colonial style house

The town has a really nice feel. Rated as one of the best small towns for retirees several years ago and has seen a steady increase in that population over the past 10 years or so.   We kept thinking it reminded us of the small towns on Maryland's Eastern Shore - Chestertown, St. Michaels, Oxford, Cambridge.  We still have this Maine location mentality in our heads and finally realize the similarity makes sense as we're on the Delmarva peninsula and those towns share a lot of the same history and are just on the opposite side of the peninsula.  Took a hike across the bridge to the charter fishing and tour boat side of the canal.  Then walked out to the beach. Watched the drawbridge open for the first time since we've been here to let a boat through that's part of a dredging operation.

Checking out the Lewes beach in the Delaware Bay

Drawbridge opens to let the workboat Dagger push its way
against the current and up the canal

 Fantastic farewell dinner with a group from our financial advisor's office.  Not only great work partners but folks we consider friends and family. A testament to a great organization. Plans completed for an early morning departure. Had a wonderful time.  Well worth the delay and certainly well worth a future visit. 

Oct. 8, 2026 Non-Negotiable - We Make it to Lewes, DE.

 Thursday, Oct. 8, 2026  Cape May, NJ to Lewes, DE    26 miles and 3.2 hours

Outstanding night's sleep.  Never even woke up worried about or needing to check the anchor. Planning for an 8AM departure as we want to arrive in Lewes with time to start exploring.   Short trip - just a few hours. We'll use the Cape May canal route which ultimately drops us out into the Delaware Bay.  Takes a little longer due to no wake zones but keeps us off the ocean.  Anchor comes up with some soft mud that washes off easily.  One last look at this nice anchorage and we're on our way.  Need to wait for a guy fishing in the middle of the narrow channel to get out of our way before we can get to the canal.  He finally relents as we edge up closer and closer to his 16' jon boat.  Pass by the Cape May commercial fishing fleet and under the bridge.  Pass the Coast Guard station and the sailboats still anchored there. 

Morning view of the housed shoreline protecting us from the SW winds 

A few of the colorful ships of the Cape May fishing fleet

 On the Delaware Bay end of the canal is the terminal for the Lewes to Cape May ferry.  One is departing at 9:30 and we're right on schedule to intercept it.  Just as we pass behind his berth, we hear the horn blast. Long-short-short-short.  He's reversing out of the slip.   We both take the same heading out into the bay before he finally overtakes us.  Wind is still blowing SW - now across the open bay and kicking up some waves.  Wind will be dying down, and the fetch will drop off making the final half of the trip nicer.  For now - more wind-blown spray with every wave.  Getting tired of these conditions, but glad they quickly diminish.  Almost calm waters as we navigate between the harbor of refuge breakwater and the ice breaker rock piles before entering Roosevelt Inlet. 

Lewes - Cape May ferry overtaking us in the middle of the Delaware Bay

From there it's a scenic 2-mile cruise down the man-made Lewes - Rehobeth Canal to Lewes.  There's a strong outgoing current as we head for our reserved dock space.  A bit daunting. It's a 200' side tie dock with the 100' Cheoy Lee yacht Prince of Tides already secured.  Our spot is the 60' of open dock in front of it.  Beyond the dock is the base of the Route 9 drawbridge.  I make my approach and simply can't get the boat against the dock.  Makes no sense to me figuring that I'm pushing into the current. Getting the boat to point just slightly towards the dock and the current should work to push me towards it.  Decide to back away and try again.  Then I see the issue.  Water is rushing out under the bridge but then creates a huge eddy and water swirls backwards along the dock.   The trick is powering up-current strongly enough to get to the dock while also being ready to quickly back up as the reversing current takes hold. We get it done just fine on our second try impressing the spectators watching from the bridge and even get a "Good Job" from the dockmaster.  

Lewes-Rehobeth canal heading into Lewes

Some of the displays as part of the Maritime Museum

Approaching our dock space in front of Prince of Tides. 
  I just kept thinking "Don't hit that boat.  Don't hit that bridge base."

Safely secured at the Lewes town dock

Big decision once we get here.  How long to stay. Certainly not a one nighter, but there's a good weather window Saturday if we want to keep moving along.  Alternative is to wait out rain and winds from remnants of hurricane Isaias but that puts us here until Tuesday.  Cute town, multiple museums, farmers market Saturday, good secure location with power.  We opt to stay put for the extra days.

Journey for Oct. 8, 2026

Oct. 7, 2026 Rounding the New Jersey Coast

Wednesday, Oct. 7, 2026   Great Kills, NY to Cape May, NJ  135 miles and 11.9 hours

Enjoyed a pleasant but short night's sleep on the mooring in Great Kills until the alarm sounded at 4:30AM ensuring we would be dropping the mooring lines for our 5AM departure. It is DARK out.  No moon to help light the way.  Martha's on the bow using a portable spotlight to illuminate the channel markers to help direct us as I'm driving by instrument with my face glued to the navigation systems and our planned route.  We go slow, idling along at a leisurely 1000 rpm's for the first hour as we cross over Raritan Bay. Finally starting to get the first signs of light as we round the corner of Sandy Hook onto the open ocean. 

Dark morning as we feel our way across Raritan Bay

Sun makes it's way above the horizon to officially start the day

Seas are good as we start the day just as forecast.  Long offshore run ahead. Always the longest travel day and mileage we encounter on our trips. We're running less than 3 miles offshore, so land is always in sight. Once the sun breaks the horizon we throttle up and run at a little stronger 1500 rpm's for some extra speed.  Aided at this point by a slight positive current we're making decent time. Pass the usual mileposts as noted by amusement parks, inlets or buildings. Asbury Park, Seaside Heights, Barnegat Inlet, etc. Keeping an eye on our projected arrival time and opt to run on plane for an hour. 2300 rpm's and burning fuel but insuring we arrive well before dark.  Southwest winds start building as we approach Absecon Inlet and Atlantic City. Increasing 2' short period waves on the bow.  Not uncomfortable but once again we're pelted with windblown spray.   Bump speed up for another hour to get us on plane.  Partly to smooth the ride and partly to just get to Cape May Inlet quicker.  Make our way past Ocean City, Avalon, and Wildwood. Finally reach the inlet.  Water flattens out as soon as we enter the protection of the entrance inlet breakwaters.

Casino's at Atlantic City are a good landmark from quite a distance

These two search and rescue vessels conducting training were about
 the most interesting thing we saw all day

 The normal anchorage here is inside the inlet in front of the Coast Guard station.   There are already multiple sailboats anchored there.  We're still skeptical of the area based on our bad experience last year when a squall came through in the middle of the night causing our anchor to drag.   I had researched an alternative anchorage called Sunset Lake.  A few miles away and past a draw bridge, but we have plenty of sunlight left and the bridge clearance won't require it to open for us. The entrance is narrow and shallow but then opens to fairly big anchorage area. We have good shoreline protection from the SW winds that will continue overnight thanks to the houses lining the water.  Depths at just 10' mean no need to put out excess anchor chain.  Even better, there is room for 10-20 boats yet only us and one sailboat are here.  No real current and hardly a ripple of a wave on the water. Believe we will make this our go-to Cape May anchorage. Location is aptly named as we have a wonderful sunset to end the day while enjoying the last of our Frank and Sal's Italian dinners over a glass of wine.  Long day, early morning, full belly and secure location at anchor, so we're in bed early and sleep very soundly. 

The lone sailboat we share the anchorage with at Sunset Lake

Sunset almost duplicates the sunrise.  Good end to a long day.

                                                                     Journey for Oct. 7, 2026                                                                        (Forgot to start NEBO, so track is a little short)

Oct 6, 2026 NYC Here We Come - Again!

 Tues. Oct. 6, 2026  Eaton Neck Anchorage to Great Kills, NY Mooring  57 Miles and 5.5 Hours

What a difference a day makes!!   Winds were still running a good 10-15mph as we raised anchor at 8 AM, but forecast was for rapidly decreasing winds and reduced seas.  Reduced seas were also aided by the narrowing width of the Long Island Sound as we approached the city.   Yeah, waves still 2' and we took some spray on the windshield for the first hour or so before things settled down.  Nothing like yesterday's misery.  Pretty ideal timing for our transit down the East River today.  We've got a favorable current all day and particularly favorable as we head towards and through Hells Gate.  Notoriously terrible if you catch it full force against you. Once we enter the narrower waters starting at the Throgs Neck Bridge, we're picking up several mph even with reduced rpms on the engines.

Our Marine Trawler Owners Assoc. burgee took a beating over the past few days

Passing Execution Rocks Lighthouse

Passing sailboat Rubycon as we head for the Throgs Neck Bridge

Stepping Stones Lighthouse

Hells Gate has us rushing through with an extra 5 mph's.  Kind of sad, but cruising by NYC via boat has sort of lost its novelty.  Becomes more of a chore with constant attention to AIS and the multiple fast ferries crisscrossing all over the river.  Seen the sights before.  Bridges, buildings, parks, ferries, UN, Empire State, ships, tugs, etc.  Kind of just want to get through it all and on to Great Kills (Staten Island) to grab a mooring ball and relax. 

For more blog posts and pictures from previous transits through NYC click the links below.

Headed north on our Great Loop Trip:

On the Water with As You Wish: June 4 Going through NYC

On the Water with As You Wish: June 9 More NYC then up the Hudson to Kingston,NY

On the Water with As You Wish: June 10 It's all about the CRUMBCAKE

Headed north on our Triangle Loop Trip:

As You Wish - Our Adventures: June 25-26, 2024 New York City and Haverstraw Cove.

Headed south after our Down East Trip:

As You Wish - Our Adventures: Friday Sept. 26, 2025 Through NYC a New Way

As a kid in NY we heard ads on the radio to tour NYC on the Circle Line. 
Made it sound like a fantasy boat ride. Always wanted to go, but never got to. 
 Instead, we rode the Staten Island Ferry back and forth for an adventure.

Distinctive Art Deco styled Chrysler Building in the background

U.N not in session so we got to travel the normal western branch of East River

Either the Williamsburg Bridge or the Manhattan Bridge.  Not sure anymore.

Brooklyn Bridge with One World Trade Center in background

Lady Liberty

Red, White and Blue tug. 

Leaving NYC in our wake

 With our 8 AM departure and the help of the current we make it there a little after 1 PM.   Gives me time to catch the launch to shore and walk over to Frank and Sal's Italian Market.  Pick up the usual.  NY Crumb Cake for breakfast, Italian cookies for snacks, and then prepared foods for a couple of dinners.  Chicken Parmesan in vodka sauce, meatballs, two slabs of lasagna, and some fresh bread. Quick cruise back to the boat on the launch   Chill while posting pictures and finalizing yesterday's eventful blog. Dinner. Sunset. Call it an early evening as we're both exhausted and we'll be up extra early for our 5AM departure to get around the NJ coast.  

Verrazano Narrows Bridge exiting the Hudson River
as we head to Great Kills. 

Forts on both sides of the narrows protected NYC throughout numerous wars. 

Twilight from our mooring looking back at Verrazano Narrows Bridge

Nighttime look back at the city

Journey for Oct. 6, 2026

Oct. 5, 2026 Complete Change of Plan and Today's Weather Made us Pay

 Monday, Oct. 5, 2026   Essex to Eaton Neck Anchorage   68 miles and 6.4 hours

Musings by Martha:  Did you ever go to bed thinking the entire next day had a set plan/schedule, only to wake up and everything suddenly changed?  That was my Monday morning.  We had reservations and paid for three nights at the Essex Dauntless anchorage.  The plans (in my mind) were to meander around town most of the day, maybe stopping at a bakery and getting a fancy coffee, checking out some of the shops, then have dinner at the Griswold Inn and stay for their Monday night singing of shanty songs.  We had been told about these Monday night gatherings when we drove up to Essex by car back in early August, so we've been looking forward to stopping on the south-bound trip and making sure we were there on a Monday night.  The usual 7am alarm goes off and it looks like it's going to be a beautiful day out, with the sun streaming in the portholes of the stateroom.  At some point close to 8:00, John poses the question of "if you had to choose between the shanty song night here or stopping at Lewes, Del, which would you choose?"  I actually want to do both...but apparently the weather forecast is really REALLY good for traveling down the coast of NJ on Wednesday and if we stay another night, we'll miss that nice weather window and for a 12-hour trip, it's certainly nice to have ideal weather.  John knows how much I want to stop at Lewes, so I tell him that one is non-negotiable...I'm willing to head out now and we will come back and visit Connecticut next year, by car, instead of traveling all the way up here by boat and we'll coerce our friends, Rich and Lynn, into experiencing shanty night with us. I suppose the point of my rambling about this is that well, this is boating. Things can change on a dime, plans can change on a dime, the weather basically controls your decisions and how many times have I heard John say "there's a reason it's called pleasure boating".  I appreciate all the diligence he takes in making sure all the traveling is as comfortable as it can be, but changes to plans can come with repercussions.

All of today's weather forecasts say 2' waves and 10mph westerly winds, so we scramble to get ready to leave and drive from the flybridge.  As we head out the Connecticut River, the Old Lyme RR bridge is open, but as we are about 10 minutes from arriving at the bridge, the bridge tender hails us that he's sorry, but he has to close the bridge and will reopen as soon as he can.  Not a big problem, we maybe waited about 10 more minutes and then it re-opened.  We get through the bridge and out into the Long Island Sound and it becomes very obvious that the winds are more than 10mph and waves pretty consistent 3 footers.  The winds carry the spray over the bow and even up to the flybridge, so we make the decision to run from inside the pilothouse instead to stay dry. 

Essex disappearing in our wake as we leave the mooring field on a beautiful morning

Biggest concern going down river is the glare off the calm water

Got to the I-95 hiway bridge when the bridge tender called that he needed to lower
 the bridge.  We crept up expecting to see an Amtrack train pass.  All we saw
was one of those pickups with the drop-down railroad wheel attachments cross
over before he lifted it back up.

Passing by the lighthouses that guard the breakwater at the river entrance. 
Still looking pretty idealic!

Back to the usual blogger - John:  We're out on the Long Island Sound and I'm wondering "what happened to all those beautiful cruising conditions we had on the sound when we were headed north?" By the time we're 2 hours into our trip conditions are nasty.  Waves are on the bow, wind is on the bow, and we have a 2 mph current on the bow slowing us down.  Our usual 1400 rpm's and 10.5 mph is only making 8.5 mph.  This will make for a LONG day.  Bump rpm's up to 1700 hoping for better speed and a more comfortable ride. Works for a while but as the winds continue to build so do the seas.  Coast Guard Special Marine Weather broadcast comes on saying small craft advisory is out due to possible gusts to 35mph.  That was not on ANY of my weather info this AM!.   About every 3rd wave sends spray onto the windshield. We're headed to the anchorage at Eaton's Neck.  Used it before so know we'll have good protection from waves but will feel the wind which is now forecast to continue overnight.  Decide we just want to get there quick as possible so push the throttles to cruising speed at 2300 rpm. Gets us to 15 mph and a bit smoother ride but kicks up more spray which the wind is now catching and tossing all over the boat. At times the spray from 2-3 waves in succession tosses water so furiously on the windshield the wipers on high can't even clear it.  We see two boats all day.  A charter head fishing boat that is smartly headed back for shore and the ferry from Bridgeport to Port Jefferson.  A couple other boats show up on AIS but are never visible to us.  We beat our way through at cruising speed for three hours and eventually make it to the anchorage. Wind still blowing but just a ripple of a wave as we get the anchor set and give it an extra tug to make sure it's set.   Looking only to the clear blue skies it would appear to be a wonderful cool crisp sunny fall day.  It makes for a wonderful sunset.  But the wind continues to howl after dark. We can feel the boat swinging and tugging on the anchor while the bimini framework rattles with each gust. At 9pm winds are still steady 15+ and gusting over 25.  Set three different anchor alarms just in case we drag in this narrow anchorage.  Despite it being a very physically and mentally draining day there's no good sleep to be had. I'm nervous all night and get up every 2 hours to check our position.  Wake up tired but glad to find everything is fine.  Except that the boat is covered top to bottom in salt.  That's going to require a serious washing at some point.

No pictures taken during the balance of our trip.  Three points of contact
required at all times.  Did get a nice sunset picture once we were anchored.

Journey for Oct. 5, 2026