July 23, 2026 On to Long Island Sound

Thursday July 23, 2026   Through NYC and on to Port Washington   

Monday July 20, 2026  Great Kills, NY to Port Washington, NY  38 miles and 3.5 hours

A rainy Saturday in Great Kills had us simply staying on the boat and chilling.  Lots of rain, some gusty winds and a good lightning show.  The multiple rain showers gave the boat a free wash taking away any salt buildup from our offshore passage. Good part was the front pushed away all that smoke that had been a nuisance for the last week, Sunday was a gorgeous day with blue sky, light winds and temps barely hitting 80.  We took the launch service to shore and walked into town.  Headed straight to Frank and Sal's Italian market.  Martha grabbed the last package of NY Crumb Cake while I got on the line for the deli case.  Not a very big store but there's always been a crowd whenever we've been here. Even at 1PM on a Sunday there's a line of locals speaking Italian back and forth to the counter helpers.  Huge array of pre-made items.  Meatballs, Chicken Parm, Eggplant roll-ups, and some sautéed Broccoli Rabe (rapini in Italian) made it into our basket.  Grabbed a fresh loaf of Italian Bread and we were set.   Stopped at Goodfellows for an award-winning pizza on the way back.  Made with a typical NY style crust but topping was vodka sauce with mozzarella, smoked gouda and asiago cheeses and topped with sausage, onions, mushrooms, and peppers (red, yellow and green).  Tasty enough and rather unique but still need to get some REAL NY pizza on this trip.   Monday turned out another gorgeous day.  Blue sky and light winds.  Perfect for the trip past NYC.  Waited until 10AM to drop the lines off the mooring so we could catch a favorable current.  Critical today as we'll head through the notorious Hells Gate.   When we arrived at Great Kills we could barely see the Verrazano Bridge with no sign of the NYC skyline due to the smoke.  Today with fresh clean air it all lay ahead clearly visible.  Good progress up to and under the Verrazzano Narrows Bridge. 

Clear sky provides a good view of the Verrazano Bridge and NYC

Civil war era Fort Richmond at base of the bridge

Then jump in front of the 150' yacht Usher to hug the shoreline around Brooklyn. Pass Governors Island and start up the East River.  We had to use the less scenic eastern side around Roosevelt Island when headed south after our Down East Loop last year since the UN General Assembly was in session which requires closing off the western branch.   No UN today so get to use the main branch which takes us directly past the UN and along the back side of Manhattan.  Narrow water and with a rising tide the current is giving us a generous 2-3 mph push.  Our AIS is staying busy warning us about the high-speed ferries shooting all around.  

M/V Usher continued up the Hudson

Lady Liberty off our port side as we turn to starboard and head up the East River

Passing Governors Island with Lower Manhattan in background

Brooklyn Bridge - One World Trade Center in background

Funky architecture, high speed ferries, and Empire State Building

United Nations Building

Roosevelt Island Lighthouse and start of Hells Gate

Heading for the Triborough Bridge and Hells Gate Bridge

We plod along going from one bridge to the next.  Brooklyn Bridge, Manhattan Bridge, Williamsburg Bridge, Queensboro Bridge, Triborough Bridge, Hells Gate Bridge, Bronx- White Stone Bridge. As we approach Hells Gate where the East River meets the waters of the Long Island Sound, we begin picking up speed.  At one point over 5 mph extra.   Plenty of turbulent water with swells and uprisings that push us around.   Doesn't last long but it's understandable that low powered or slow boats do not want to go through here against the maximum current.  By 1PM we're under the last bridge.  With the Throgs Neck Bridge and my old NY neighborhood behind we pass out onto the open waters of the sound.

Under the Throgs Neck Bridge - Bronx on the left, Queens on the right.
Merchant Marine Academy in background.

Steppingstone Lighthouse built 1877 welcomes us to the Long Island Sound

A short ride later and we're turning to starboard and into the protection of Manhasset Bay passing the shoreline mansions that occupy Great Neck.  F. Scott Fitgerald lived there for several years during the early 1920's and that experience helped provide the setting for his famous The Great Gatsby novel.   Arrive at the Port Washington mooring field and get ourselves secured and checked in with the harbormaster. Port Washington is a town that caters to transient boaters with very reasonably priced mooring and a free water taxi service.  Just $35/night.  We were concerned there might not be a mooring left for us as they are "first come - first served" and there is no limit on length of stay.  But we had a choice of 5-6 available ones. 

Great Neck still abounds with modern mansions

With our early arrival and knowing we would probably be boat-bound Tuesday with rain we opted to head to town for an afternoon walkabout.  Surprisingly, there's not much on Main Street directly on the waterfront but it then loops around and uphill to town.    Not an overly scenic street. Shops and businesses.  Seems like every possible ethnic restaurant.  Pubs, Seafood, French, Italian, Mediterranean, Indian, Greek, Peruvian, Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Thai, Sushi, Bubble Teas, Ice Cream, etc.   Somehow - no craft brewery!!   We make it to the far side of town and grab a slice of plain cheese pizza at Carlo's.  The true test of good NY style and it passes with flying colors. Tasty tomato sauce, right amount of cheese, thin crust that's easily foldable.  Next stop is Finn MacCools for a local IPA draft and some wings.  Back to the town dock and catch the water taxi back to the boat.  Chill the rest of the day and watch the sun set over the harbor and out to the Sound.  

Main Street thru Port Washington

Nice sunset view out the harbor

Port Washington free water taxi

As expected, woke up to overcast sky and windy conditions on Tuesday.   Rain forecasted but most of it seems to be staying just north of us. We take advantage of a leisurely day on the boat with some housekeeping chores and catching up on the blog.  Dinner is finally a feast of Italian dishes from Frank and Sal's.  We have enough leftovers for two more meals.  Couple of heavy rain squalls finally develop.  Not long lived but intense as each band passes through.  

 

Storms a Brewing!!

In the thick of a rain band.  Flash Flood Warnings.

Winds whipping making all the boats tug on the mooring lines

Wednesday we decide to explore the area a bit more.  Uber out to the Sands Point Preserve Conservancy.  The original 300-acre property was purchased by Howard Gould in 1900.  He was the son of a financier and railroad baron. He built Gould Castle - a 100,000 square foot summer home fashioned after Castle Kilkenny in Ireland. His wife didn't like it so he built Hempstead House overlooking the sound.  A more modest home at only 50,000 sq ft that was more to her liking. The castle was then used as a carriage house, stable and servant's quarters. During the heyday of the Gold Coast, Hempstead House was supposedly THE place for extravagant parties.  In 1917 the property was sold to the Guggenheims who held it until 1942 when it was given to the Navy.  They utilized the castle for development and testing of electronic devices and simulation equipment for aviation and submarine training. By 1971 the property was considered government surplus and given to Nassau County.  Unfortunately, the castle is not open to visitors and Hempstead House has very limited tours that were not running while we were there. Headed over to the town library which includes a small museum and art gallery.  History here goes well back to the early 1600 Dutch settlers.  Got to remember, before it was ever called New York it was New Amsterdam!

Gould Castle - standing big, bold and fortress like

Central clock tower

Front of much more refined Hempstead House

Three entry arches with delicate and elaborate ornamentation

Each ornamental art piece was unique

Ships, forts, faces, animals

This poor fellow left holding up an outcropping for eternity

The 80' tall tower must have spectacular views out to the sound

Peaked through a window at the interior of the sunroom.
Building is empty as the Guggenheims sold all the furnishing when they left.

View from the back of the house overlooking the gardens and the sound

Back on the boat we watched as he headed out for an evening sail. 

Another sunset.  Thought we lost it behind the clouds

But it popped out in time for a final show.

Thursday was another beautiful blue-sky day with temps just into the 80's.  So nice!  Relaxing day overall.  Hit the Stop and Shop for some provisions. Martha found a hairdresser who could fit her in for a needed salon day.   Finished up the blog and watched another nice sunset.  On to Northport in the AM. 

Journey for July 20, 2026

July 18, 2026 Three long cruising days to NY

 Saturday July 18, 2026  Baltimore to Great Kills, NY  267 miles and 28 hours over 3 days

Wednesday July 15, 2026  Baltimore to Chesapeake City  60 miles and 6.9 hours

Said goodbye to Baltimore with an 8AM departure.  Calm seas all day.  Decided on a minor detour up the Middle River to Bowleys Marina for a fuel stop.  Cheap diesel at just $4.25/gal.  Topped off the tanks with 175 gallons.   Middle River was where we first started boating back in late 80's when we lived in Pennsylvania. Bought 3 different boats from Anchor Bay Yacht Sales and kept them at Cutter Marina which is further up the river. Lot of water has passed under our keels since those days.

Tending to crab traps on the upper bay. 

Then made our way up towards the head of the bay.  Short cutted it behind Coles Island off the Aberdeen Proving Grounds.  Heard several ordinances being tested on the base and didn't think much of it until we rounded the northern end of Coles Island and was greeted by lights and sirens from a US Army patrol boat requesting we make an immediate turn to starboard and head outside the yellow markers which delineate the proving grounds waters.  Glad to comply. (Note those sharp turns on the NEBO map after the detour fuel stop)

Lighthouse at north end of Coles Island

Army patrol boat shooing us away from the Aberdeen Proving Grounds

Then on to the headwaters and start of Chesapeake and Delaware (C&D) Canal.  Chesapeake City has a free town dock we were hoping would have room for us.  Only accommodates about 3 boats of any size.  Skinny water entering the harbor - less than 1' under the keel as we stirred up mud while spinning the boat around to face out.   Deeper water alongside the dock.  Squeezed our way in-between the two boats already tied up. Able to use an adapter to get 50amps of power to use the A/C.  Critical as it feels like temps were well over 100.   Checked out the new Bayheads Brewery.   Decent IPA.   Then opted for dinner at the Chesapeake Inn.  Pretty good deal as Wednesday is Prime Rib night as well as 1/2 price bottles of wine.  Took a quick walk around the very scenic though small town.  Excellent job on preserving and restoring their historic homes and shops. Nice couple behind us on Boomerang in a Nordic Tug. We'll be traveling the same route the next few days.  

Entering the C&D Canal with Chesapeake City just past the bridge

Beer and bourbon at Bayheads Brewery. Out of River Rat and CnDouble
but the Canal House IPA was refreshing.

Chesapeake Inn and the Tiki Bar.  Party central on the weekends. 

Many of the old historic inns like the Bayard House are now B&B's.

Originally a Bank, then Town Hall, now a candy store

This beautifully restored building now houses an upscale Italian restaurant.  

The opening of the canal generated wealthy merchants
as evident by the homes they built.

Journey for July 15, 2026

Thursday July 16, 2026  Chesapeake City to Cape May. NJ.  73 miles and 7.8 hours

Off the dock at 8 AM.  Looks like fog but actually very smoky and hazy.  Wildfires in Canada now generating unhealthy air quality advisories in the northeast. Should be sticking around at least a few days. Caught a great current through the C&D canal shooting us through with an extra 2mph push. We pass under a multitude of bridges.  Thankfully they're all high rise to allow large ships unencumbered passage.

Smoky hazy morning as we start the day

Bridge that was barely visible in the distance on above picture

Got through the canal without any opposing big ship traffic. 

Once on the Delaware Bay we have an incoming tide which slows us down.  Smoky conditions continue.  Normal sights like the massive cooling towers for the nuclear plant look like a mirage in the distance.  AIS shows a cargo ship heading up the bay and it suddenly comes out of the mist like a ghost ship in a movie.  Even Ship John Shoal lighthouse is only visible once we get much closer.  Of course the smell of bird guano tells us we're approaching from downwind. 

Container ship heading up the bay.  Visible on AIS long before we made visual contact

Passing close by Ship John Shoal Lighthouse. The unique cast iron superstructure
 is of a Victorian Second Empire design.  Completed in 1877.

Make it to the entrance of Cape May canal where we meet the Cape May/Lewes ferry.  Decide not to push our luck and race him in.   Dredging going on once in the harbor.  Unable to tell what was going on as dredge is right at a corner of the channel with markers all around.  Numerous smaller boats around us in the same predicament.   Just stopped and idled to figure it out. Learned my lesson not to just take a guess. Too easy to judge wrong and go aground. Finally, a work boat gathered us all up and we followed him safely through.

The Cape May - Lewes ferry Delaware cutting us off...they're on a schedule, not us!

Tight squeeze through the abandoned RR swing bridge on the Cape May canal

Workboats show us the safe way around the dredging equipment

The Cape May anchorage area is pretty well known due it's easy access to or from the inlet.  Trouble is - it's not a very big anchorage.  Numerous sailing catamarans are already at anchor.  Picked our spot amongst them and dropped anchor.   When we came in we all lined up straight but as wind and currents changed the boats all went cattywampus.  One pointing N, another S, another E, as well as one small sailboat appeared to be dragging anchor.  Decided to raise our anchor and just move closer towards an open area closer to the inlet where Boomerang had settled in.  A little more wave action with sport fishing and sightseeing boats coming in the inlet, but that settled down once it got dark.

Final anchorage away from the crowds as the sun sets into the hazy horizon. 
 That's Boomerang with the blue hull behind us.

Journey for July 16, 2026

Friday July 17, 2026   Cape May, NJ up the Atlantic to Great Kills, NY  134 miles and 13.2 hours

Should be the longest travel day of our trip.  Need to get a very early start so alarms are set for 4:30AM with a 5:30AM planned departure once we have some light.   All good raising anchor and easy cruise out to the ocean.  Waves are forecast at very manageable 2' today.  Temps just into the upper 80's. Last good day to do the offshore run.  Rain is forecasted for Saturday, then wind and waves pick up for a while.  We run 2-5 miles offshore. Smoky day continues, but lets up a bit as the day goes on.   At times we get a glimpse of shore.  Mostly just a lot of open water.   Friday afternoon fishermen are out on the artificial reefs as we pass Barnegat Inlet.  Otherwise, not much going on. 

Trawler returning from an overnight outing as we head out the Cape May Inlet

Yup.  Another smoke-filled hazy morning along the Jersey shore

Sun is up but can hardly break through the smoke.  

The forecast for 2' seas was accurate, making for a long but smooth day. 

Air quality map shows smoke funneling in from Canada

Make our way around Sandy Hook.  Barely able to see the Verrazzano Bridge due to smoky haze.  Then into Great Kills Harbor and find our usual mooring ball, N3.  Made arrangements with Richmond County Yacht Club for 3 days here.  They put us on this same mooring ball every visit as it's designated for larger boats.  Plan on using Saturday as a chill out day then grab the launch and head to town Sunday.  Frank and Sal's Italian Market awaits!!

Secured to a mooring ball in Great Kills watching that big red ball of fire
 slowly being engulfed into the smoky horizon

Journey for July 17, 2026