Oct. 14, 2026 Chesapeake Fuel Stop and a New Anchorage

 Wednesday, Oct. 1, 2026  Sassafras Anchorage to South River Anchorage  60 miles and 6.5 hours travel time

Fuel tanks are getting lower than I like - down to 20% of capacity.  Best local price is $5.99/gal across the bay at Bowley's Marina on the Middle River.  Loaded up on fuel there on our way north as they were best price then at just $4.25!!    Got a little wind this morning but it will settle down. Then looks like a nice day.  Sunny and upper 80's. Sun is up and so is the anchor by 7:15AM.   Quick washdown as it came up pretty clean.   Decent anchorage.  Exposed to west and north winds but since we had light SW winds all night it worked out fine. 

Another colorful sunrise

We had six sailboats join us at anchor last night. 
Late arrivals must be sleeping in as we head out

Fish weirs are something we need to be mindful of on the Chesapeake. 
Also need to start keep a better lookout for the random crab pots.

Open waters with just a little chop crossing over to Middle River. 

Crazy waterman and his loaded boat passing on Middle River. 
 Not sure if he ever saw us so gave him lots of room.

Took about 2-1/2 hours to get to Bowleys and another hour to load 480 gallons on board.  Decent amount of travel time under the keel since our last fill-up back in Portland, Maine. Off their dock at 11:30 and trying to determine how far down the bay we wanted to go before stopping for the night.  Make our way past the Patapsco River and the entrance to Baltimore but continue on. Next landmark is going under the twin Chesapeake Bay Bridges.   Forecast is for winds swapping to N-NE so want a place with protection from that direction.  Originally had picked a place up the West River just north of Annapolis in Whitehall Bay, but it was still too early to stop for the day.  Pressed on to the South River.  Entrance is marked by the iconic screw pile Thomas Point Lighthouse.  Looking lovely as ever.  Had not seen it on our last few transits as we were traveling along the Eastern Shore. 

Approaching the Chesapeake Bay Bridges

After the first bridge was constructed linking to the eastern shore,
traffic congestion soon led to the building of the second bridge

From the water you really notice the sweeping nature of the roadbed leading to the ridge

Cargo ships anchored off the Annapolis area waiting entry to Baltimore

Some boats empty and floating high waiting for cargo or travel
 instructions for their next port of call

Fully loaded bulk container.  Always fun to guess what might be in its hold.

The most recognized lighthouse in Maryland. The 1875 Thomas Point Shoal Lighthouse. 
The only screwpile style lighthouse on the bay still in its original location

 Research said there is a delightful anchorage at Harness Creek.  Great protection all around, decent depths, good holding, very natural surroundings. But as we were approaching seven boats showed on AIS with another heading in.  Just too crowded for us.  Anchorage seems too small for all those boats. No way we could put out all the anchor chain scope we would want. Next creek up called Aberdeen Creek was a bit more exposed to the river but had good protection from the upcoming N-NE winds.  Anchor down and grabs fine. Put out a little extra scope for added insurance against the 180-degree swing overnight.  Had the entire anchorage to ourselves.  As expected, the winds shifted in the middle of the night.  Cool breeze through the open portholes woke me at 4 AM to do a check.  Just a breeze outside. Nothing too strong.  All good for a couple more hours sleep.  Nice houses around the shoreline.  Couple of docks.  Overall worked out fine for our one-night stay and sets us up for a shorter cruise on Thursday to Solomons. 

Nice rural scenery as we work our way up the South River

Pretty typical waterfront home facing our anchorage.  Not too shabby!

Journey for Oct. 14, 2026 
Note the detour for cheap fuel.

Oct. 13, 2026 Up the Delaware Bay and on to the Chesapeake

Tuesday,  Oct. 13, 2026   Lewes, DE to Sassafras River, MD.  95 miles and 8.9 hours

Had a great extended stay in Lewes and now have a combination of a great weather window and perfectly timed tidal features.  With our 7AM departure there will be no current at the dock as we leave, so won't be fighting those crazy swirling eddies we had when docking.  Once out the canal we pick up the incoming tide which gives us a 1-1/2 to 2 mph push north up the entire length of the bay and halfway through the C&D canal.  Then the outgoing Chesapeake Bay tide catches us and pulls us south to our anchorage.   On a full day trip like today it makes a huge difference.  My navigational auto routing program calculates a 10.5 hour cruise but we make it in under 9 hours.  These currents can have the opposite effect if currents are completely against you - turning that 10.5 hour day into a 12+ hour day. That can be problematic during this time of year when we only have 11 hours of sunlight. 

Slack tide as the early morning sun starts to rise.

 

Heading through the Lewes canal and towards the open Delaware Bay

Once out the Lewes Canal we take a series of long straight lines in almost perfectly calm waters.  Seas are on the nose but less than 1 foot.  Wind at our back at 5mph.  Never have a single bit of spray come on deck all day which was a blessing now that the boats all cleaned up.  Otto was in heaven with no adverse conditions.  Amazing how quickly seas can flatten out. There were 3-4' waves yesterday before the wind stopped. One calm night and they're completely gone.  Nice sunny day today.  Starts in low 60's but works to upper 70's.  We normally run the western side of the bay when coming out from Cape May, but today we're keeping to the western side.  No real pitfalls other than we're further from the main channel and the couple of lighthouses along that route. We do get to see a larger number of cargo ships and tugs today than on our previous transits. Not sure why - but more of them and headed both directions. 

Alaskan Explorer at anchor waiting its turn to head up the Delaware Bay

Container ship Dole Chile looking like a giant banana with that yellow hull.

Finally caught and passed the tug Crystal Coast. 

Once we reach the Salem nuclear power plant we know we're getting close 
to the C&D canal. Steam from that tower was visible from over 15 miles away

At the top of the Delaware Bay we make the sharp turn to port onto the Chesapeake and Delaware (C&D) canal.  A jet ski and couple of center consoles zip around us. Can't blame them for being out on such a nice day.  A pair of tugs meet us head on pulling a load of dredging pipes. Work our way under the tall bridges crossing the canal.   Chesapeake City is towards the end of the canal.  We've got it as an optional stopping point if the free town dock has available space.  Unfortunately, several day boaters are using it while visiting the local restaurant.  It's only 1:30 so no problem to keep pushing on.  

Small powerboats blasting around us

The old mule path on the north side of the canal  has been
 repurposed into a paved walking and biking 

Road bridges over the canal.  All have extra height to accommodate cargo ships

Tugs dragging a load of dredging pipes

Schaefer's Canal House - fuel, docks and restaurant at Chesapeake City.
Town docks are in a harbor on the opposite side of the canal

We used a decent anchorage on the Sassafras River in the past and can make it there by 4PM with plenty of time to get anchored and relaxed before the sun sets.  It's a pleasant change running from outside up on the flybridge today. Beginning to get some nice fall colors on the trees around here.  Only made better by a delightful glass of wine, steak on the grill, fresh veggies from the Lewes Farmers Market and a brilliant sunset over calm waters.

Sunset over the Sassafras River

Journey for Oct. 13, 2026

Oct. 9-12, 2026 Chillin' in Lewes

 Thursday, Oct. 9, 2026  

A big reason we wanted to stop in Lewes was to have the opportunity to personally visit with our financial advisors. So our first order of business once getting settled was a trip to their office. Smaller firm, great people, outstanding communications.   Had a wonderful visit with them and even took a few meals together during our stay.  Then spent the balance of the day - well over 3 hours giving the boat that much needed fresh water wash to remove all the saltwater residue we had accumulated. 

As You Wish looking rather spiffy now that she's all cleaned up!

Friday Oct. 10, 2026  

Another decision day due to weather.  We either need to leave Saturday or we'll need to stay put until Monday or Tuesday. Good travel day forecast for up the Delaware Bay Saturday, but we'd be cutting our touristy time in Lewes short.  If we don't go, then weather from the remnants of Hurricane Isaias will have rain and winds for several days. Town is very cute. We decide to stay put and use Friday to visit museums.  Historical Society and Zwaanendael House.  Lots of history here.  Because Lewes was the earliest settlement in the state, and Delaware was the first state to ratify the constitution, the town refers to itself as "The First Town in the First State".   A Dutch settlement and trading post was established here as far back as 1631 called Zwaanendael.  Back in 1931 during the tricentennial the state built the museum bearing that name in the style of Dutch city halls.  Neither the first, second or even third attempt at a settlement lasted over a year.  Not much actual history is known about these early settlements.  Museum does have a very rare Merman on display.  These were created by the Japanese for trade to foreigners when they first opened up their country. Basically, they made "creatures" using fish tails, wood bodies, duck legs, fish heads. etc. and passed them off as mummified mermaids.    Even P.T. Barnum had 2 of them on display in his show. 

Very ornate Zwaanendael Museum

This giant reel at the historical society was used to dry and repair menhaden nets.
 Workers walked the planks to rotate the reel

Numerous historical buildings such as the tavern in the foreground and shops
 in the background have been moved and assembled at the historical society property

 Land was eventually succeeded to the English by the late 1600's and a more permanent settlement ensued. Early years dominated by trade, fishing and shipbuilding. They also like to refer to the area as LSD - Lower, Slower, Delaware.  This is still primarily agricultural farm area and things happen at a slower pace. Location at entrance to Delaware Bay was also militarily significant and several forts were here.  Fort Miles was a critical coastal defense fort during WWII.  Large battery of guns to protect the entrance to Philly from Nazi ships and subs. It was also the home to a top-secret Navy listening post.  Menhaden fishery was a large employer for many years.  These are small fish processed for oil and then further processed for fertilizer.  At one time Lewes had the largest fish processing plant in the U.S. - all focused on menhaden.  Earned Lewes the nickname of "Stinkytown" due to the overwhelming odor from the plants. The ferry terminal is now home to that area. Overfishing killed the industry and the last plant closed in the 1960's.  With a nice calm sandy beach protected by Cape Henlopen and its proximity to Rehobeth Beach, Lewes worked to reinvent itself as a tourist town.  Wonderful downtown area full of shops and restaurants, nicely restored and maintained historic homes, good selection of museums.  Lewes in Bloom is an organization that has won numerous national and international awards for their efforts at planting and maintaining gardens throughout the downtown areas.  Lots of flowers still in bloom and fall decorations and plantings are now showing. 

Just a few of the displays around town sponsored by the "Lewes in Bloom" group

Saturday Oct. 11, 2026

Farmers Market Day.  The one here is very much a true farmers market.  None of the artsy, crafty vendors.  Need to be a local food-oriented business so there were numerous produce stands. Lots of root vegetables, hard squashes and gourds, pumpkins, greens, apples, last of the season tomatoes and sweet corn, honey, mushrooms, baked goods, beef, pork, chicken, eggs, microgreens, dairy, etc.  Loaded up a bag to refill the frig. Watched a bit of college football (Tigers not playing so at least we didn't lose again!) then headed over to the Maritime Museum area.  Main displays are the Overfall Lightship, a restored 10-oar Monomoy lifesaving boat and a restored U.S. Life Saving Station.  While the Monomoys were originally designed for Life Saving Stations, they became invaluable during WWII when huge numbers of ships and crew were being lost due to U-boat sinkings.  Started putting them on merchant marine supply ships as rescue vessels to minimize the severe shortage of seamen due to drownings. Nice waterfront park area with balance of the town docks, play areas, tennis/pickleball courts, etc.  

Restored Life Saving Station at maritime museum

Restored lightship

Monomoy lifesaving vessel courtesy of the US Merchant Marine Academy

Sunday Oct. 12, 2026  Remnants of Hurricane Isaias here all day.  Rainy and windy.  Not fit for anything but staying on board.  Jaguars football game from London was a morning game.  Very frustrating to watch, but the Jags finally pulled it off for the win with a field goal in the last seconds. Catching up with more blogging.  Then spent afternoon watching pre-recorded F1 sprint and full races from Singapore. Red Bull and Max Verstappen coming on strong mid-season but looks like Kimi Antonelli and Mercedes are locked in for the driver championship. 

Wet, rainy, dreary, windy day. Perfect for catching some TV time

Monday Oct. 13, 2026. Dang!! Almost have half the month behind us already.  November right around the corner.  Still rainy this morning and wind has swapped around to the north as the storm continues its track out of here.  Should dry out with decreasing winds for the balance of the day.  We head out for some breakfast. Rain has stopped by the time we're done so take a walk up and down local neighborhood streets looking at the architectural variety of the old houses.  

Original Marine Mercantile House 

Historical Society just renovated the "cannonball house". 
Hit by the British during the war of 1812

Cannon ball in foundation shows area of impact. 
The ball was actually lodged about 6' underground

Early Dutch colonial style house

The town has a really nice feel. Rated as one of the best small towns for retirees several years ago and has seen a steady increase in that population over the past 10 years or so.   We kept thinking it reminded us of the small towns on Maryland's Eastern Shore - Chestertown, St. Michaels, Oxford, Cambridge.  We still have this Maine location mentality in our heads and finally realize the similarity makes sense as we're on the Delmarva peninsula and those towns share a lot of the same history and are just on the opposite side of the peninsula.  Took a hike across the bridge to the charter fishing and tour boat side of the canal.  Then walked out to the beach. Watched the drawbridge open for the first time since we've been here to let a boat through that's part of a dredging operation.

Checking out the Lewes beach in the Delaware Bay

Drawbridge opens to let the workboat Dagger push its way
against the current and up the canal

 Fantastic farewell dinner with a group from our financial advisor's office.  Not only great work partners but folks we consider friends and family. A testament to a great organization. Plans completed for an early morning departure. Had a wonderful time.  Well worth the delay and certainly well worth a future visit. 

Oct. 8, 2026 Non-Negotiable - We Make it to Lewes, DE.

 Thursday, Oct. 8, 2026  Cape May, NJ to Lewes, DE    26 miles and 3.2 hours

Outstanding night's sleep.  Never even woke up worried about or needing to check the anchor. Planning for an 8AM departure as we want to arrive in Lewes with time to start exploring.   Short trip - just a few hours. We'll use the Cape May canal route which ultimately drops us out into the Delaware Bay.  Takes a little longer due to no wake zones but keeps us off the ocean.  Anchor comes up with some soft mud that washes off easily.  One last look at this nice anchorage and we're on our way.  Need to wait for a guy fishing in the middle of the narrow channel to get out of our way before we can get to the canal.  He finally relents as we edge up closer and closer to his 16' jon boat.  Pass by the Cape May commercial fishing fleet and under the bridge.  Pass the Coast Guard station and the sailboats still anchored there. 

Morning view of the housed shoreline protecting us from the SW winds 

A few of the colorful ships of the Cape May fishing fleet

 On the Delaware Bay end of the canal is the terminal for the Lewes to Cape May ferry.  One is departing at 9:30 and we're right on schedule to intercept it.  Just as we pass behind his berth, we hear the horn blast. Long-short-short-short.  He's reversing out of the slip.   We both take the same heading out into the bay before he finally overtakes us.  Wind is still blowing SW - now across the open bay and kicking up some waves.  Wind will be dying down, and the fetch will drop off making the final half of the trip nicer.  For now - more wind-blown spray with every wave.  Getting tired of these conditions, but glad they quickly diminish.  Almost calm waters as we navigate between the harbor of refuge breakwater and the ice breaker rock piles before entering Roosevelt Inlet. 

Lewes - Cape May ferry overtaking us in the middle of the Delaware Bay

From there it's a scenic 2-mile cruise down the man-made Lewes - Rehobeth Canal to Lewes.  There's a strong outgoing current as we head for our reserved dock space.  A bit daunting. It's a 200' side tie dock with the 100' Cheoy Lee yacht Prince of Tides already secured.  Our spot is the 60' of open dock in front of it.  Beyond the dock is the base of the Route 9 drawbridge.  I make my approach and simply can't get the boat against the dock.  Makes no sense to me figuring that I'm pushing into the current. Getting the boat to point just slightly towards the dock and the current should work to push me towards it.  Decide to back away and try again.  Then I see the issue.  Water is rushing out under the bridge but then creates a huge eddy and water swirls backwards along the dock.   The trick is powering up-current strongly enough to get to the dock while also being ready to quickly back up as the reversing current takes hold. We get it done just fine on our second try impressing the spectators watching from the bridge and even get a "Good Job" from the dockmaster.  

Lewes-Rehobeth canal heading into Lewes

Some of the displays as part of the Maritime Museum

Approaching our dock space in front of Prince of Tides. 
  I just kept thinking "Don't hit that boat.  Don't hit that bridge base."

Safely secured at the Lewes town dock

Big decision once we get here.  How long to stay. Certainly not a one nighter, but there's a good weather window Saturday if we want to keep moving along.  Alternative is to wait out rain and winds from remnants of hurricane Isaias but that puts us here until Tuesday.  Cute town, multiple museums, farmers market Saturday, good secure location with power.  We opt to stay put for the extra days.

Journey for Oct. 8, 2026