Sept. 22-29, 2026 Waiting out the Nor'easter in Portland

 Tuesday - Tuesday,  Sept. 22 - 29, 2026   Docked in Portland 

Knowing we were here for an extended stay, Martha made reservations for a rental car starting on Wednesday. Of course, a reservation means nothing.  Got a call from Enterprise before we left for pick-up. "We don't have any cars available". Thursday still nothing available.  Finally had something at a different location for us on Friday.  Wasn't a complete waste as I needed to do an oil change on the engines so utilized Thursday to get samples for analysis, drain 8 gallons of old oil, remove and replace 4 filters and refill.  Sounds so easy but still takes me half a day hunched over in the engine room.  Martha did some sewing repairing the flybridge instrument canvas cover and also baked a perfect batch of granola. 

Glad to finally have a car Friday.  Wound up with a slight upgrade to a small SUV - Hyundai Kona.  Road trip south to Ogunquit.   They have one of the few long sandy beaches in Maine, so it's a tourist town. South of the beach is a preserved rugged shoreline with a trail called "the Marginal Way".  Very scenic and an easy walk as it's paved. Good vantage point to see the building surf. Hardest part is finding somewhere to park to access the trail.  "No parking - strictly enforced" signs posted everywhere in the neighborhoods leading to the trail.  Serious about that enforcement.  Sheriff stationed and writing tickets at will. We got lucky and found a neighborhood parking spot just outside the "no parking" zone.

The long sandy beach at Ogunquit in the background

Nice little overlook to catch the building seas

The town built this lighthouse in 1947 to help keep boats off the ledge

Surf's Up!

Back in the car and headed north to Kennebunkport.   Another busy tourist town.  Ready for late lunch, early dinner.  Again, parking almost impossible.  Finally just gave in and let the valet worry about it at The Boathouse Restaurant. Split some clam chowder then a fish sandwich for Martha and shrimp tacos for John.  Nice view over the very small harbor.   We had passed Wallingford Farm stand on the way down, so stopped there on way back. Nice 1800's home and Feed Store building.   Got there just as they were closing, but Martha was still able to grab a small pumpkin out of the patch for the boat.  Then back to the boat for the night. 

Part of the pumpkin patch at Wallingford Farm

Saturday decided on a trip north.  Destination was Wiscasset. Had to pass through Yarmouth, Freeport, Brunswick, and Bath to get there. Beautiful ride up with fall colors evident in the maple trees along the roadside. We had been wanting a really good lobster roll before we left Maine and the one at Red's Eats gets mentioned consistently in Top 10 lists. It's also the self-proclaimed "Prettiest village in Maine". Once a major 18th century shipping and customs port, Wiscasset retains numerous old Federal and Victorian homes that attest to the town's earlier wealth.  Great self-guided tour and audio app. 

Downtown Wiscasset

Lots of beautifully maintained 18th and 19th century homes

Crazy steep roofline on this old house next to "The Ancient Cemetery"

The thing about Red's Eats...it's a shack down on a corner where a bridge carries Route 1 across the Sheepscot River.  There is always a line.  We were lucky with only an hour's wait.  During the height of the summer season, it can be much longer.  The lobster roll is huge. We really should have gotten one and split it.  Each roll contains tail, claws and knuckles for a whole lobster.  It easily had double the meat of any other roll we've had up here.  Toasted bun.  Meat is naked but your choice of butter or mayo on the side (butter for us).  Made our way back to Portland stopping for a nightcap at Belleflower Brewery.  Portland is a craft brewery meca.  Too many to choose from so only hitting a few.  Belleflower is known for their IPA's and their "Light Bearer" Triple NE IPA did not disappoint.  Super hazy, juicy, almost creamy.  10% ABV but so smooth you'd never know it. 

Waiting in line to place our order

Red's Eats lobster rolls. Yes, there's a bun somewhere under there.

Sunday started the brunt of the nor'easter here.  Winds 25-35 all day.  Rain off and on.  Hard to get going but finally managed to find our way to Q Street Diner for a late breakfast. Another wait in line as apparently the locals all had the same idea. Then visited the three local lighthouses to check out surf conditions.  Went to the Portland Head Lighthouse first.  It's a bit further out of town and more exposed than the two other lighthouses at the harbor entrance.  Surprising number of people out checking the conditions. Wind was howling so opted for a quick look from a distance.  

Waves crashing at Portland Head Light. 
 That's Ram Island Ledge lighthouse just visible in the distance

Then on to Spring Point Ledge Lighthouse.  We've taken pictures of it before while entering Portland.  Called a "sparkplug" light due to its unique shape.  Originally sat out in open water until a 900 foot breakwater was constructed using 50,000 tons of granite in 1951.  You can walk out to it if so inclined.  A bit too unlevel for us on this foul day.

Long walk to the lighthouse on rough stones

Superyacht riding out the storm anchored behind Little Diamond Island

Last stop was at the Portland Breakwater Light. Nicknamed "The Bug Lighthouse " cause it's "cute as a bug".  Inspired by the fourth-century Choragic Monument built near the Acropolis in Athens. The unique style sets it apart from any other lighthouse in the world.  The structure is cast steel including the Corinthian columns and capitals.  Originally built in 1875 at the end of a 2000-foot breakwater.  The land encompassing the breakwater was filled in and used as a shipyard for building Liberty ships during WWII.  Monument honors those ships on the land which is now a city park. 

The Bug Lighthouse

Ornate Corinthian detailing makes this a very unique lighthouse

Liberty ship monument.  At its peak they employed 30,000 and could
built 13 ships simultaneously. Eventually made 236 Liberty ships
 and 30 British "Ocean" cargo ships.

Rest of the day back at the boat.  Heaters on.  Pot roast in the Insta-Pot. Caught the Jaguars game (another win!!) and then watched a recording of the F1 race from Azerbaijan.  Very glad we have that 100' Nordhavn next to us.  While we're still getting tossed about a little, it is working well as a wind break and wave attenuator. 

Monday and we're still working through the weather today.  Rain forecast all day.  Winds dropping down a bit staying in the 25mph range.  Just a gloomy day.  Looks like we'll make out better than some other areas along the east coast.  Just need to wait it out and let the seas subside. Martha's back has been a little tight and we've been searching for the heating pad that we're pretty sure we brought back on board. Looked in all the usual cubbyholes with no luck.  Now at that stage of "where else could it be? what about ....".  Finally found it buried under "stuff" in the back corner of the lower bunk in the 3rd stateroom.  Had given that area a cursory look several times but this was a deep dive.  Just glad we found it and it's giving Martha some relief. Now rested and relaxed, time for some chores.  Big one today was doing laundry.  Marina has 2 washers and dryers but every time we checked at least one was busy.  Decided to just collect up everything and head for the local laundromat where it's easier to get multiple machines and get it all done at once. With this colder weather we're layered up and wearing heavier clothes, so it seems to pile up faster.  Filled two large duffle bags and off we went. While Martha was occupied with the laundry, John took the rental car to check out Micucci's Italian Market. Grabbed two slabs of their famous sicilian pizza to go, some of their home-made sauce and a bag of pasta.  Dinner plans completed.  Then off to Standard Bakery for a few pastries for in the morning and a nice rosemary and salt Focaccia bread. Also snuck in a stop back to Belleflower Brewery for a 4-pack of that IPA.

We needed to return the rental car Tuesday and had a couple more chores in the morning.  Over to Costco for some cheese and of course, other things managed to jump into the cart. As usual, $150 poorer and we left. Then another grocery run to Hannaford's for normal provisions.  Figure we'll be anchoring or mooring a bit more so need to keep our supplies up. Topped off the water tank.  Review all the weather apps and navigation tools in preparation for our planned Wednesday departure.  Feels weird being in the same place for a solid week. Ready to get moving.

The 100' Nordhavn that was protecting us against the storm
left early afternoon on the high tide. They are headed south as well,
we may cross paths again.

By 6pm Tuesday, winds and waves were completely gone. 

Night view across the harbor to Portland. 

 

Sept. 22, 2026 Portland for an Extended Stay

 Tues. Sept. 22, 2026  Boothbay Harbor Marina to South Port Marina 38 miles and 4.0 hours

Weather, weather, and more weather.  Been watching for days as a potential nor'easter was possibly forming.  A high-pressure system is holding to our northwest while a low-pressure system is forming to our southeast. As they fight it out there will be strong winds and waves along the entire east coast. Working its way from the Carolinas all the way up to Maine.  Strongest winds are still several days away from us. Looks like Thursday thru Monday will be the worst days here, but seas have already started building.  So, we figured today was the last good day for us to travel and getting to Portland makes the most sense for an extended secure stay in a place with some things for us to do. Appears we'll be here at least a week.  Current sea state forecast as follows: Wed.: Seas 4-6', Thurs.: Seas 7-8', Fri.: Seas 8', Sat.: Seas 7', Sun.: Seas 10-13', Mon.: Seas 8' dropping to 6', Tues.: Seas 6' to 5'.  Hoping to get going again next Wednesday if things will just level out at 3'.

Windy app shows forecasted wave heights to 18' by Sunday.

American Legend cruise ship came into Boothbay Harbor overnight. 
They were already unloading passengers with their launch as we passed by.

Today's trip was just a half day but conditions, while not terrible, were already not particularly fun.  Forecast called for 2' swells from the east with lesser waves from the north.  So, a bit confused.  Some pretty open waters as we crossed Casco Bay with an occasional swell getting closer to 3'.   Lobster traps scattered so still needed a mindful eye on them, which becomes more difficult as they oftentimes disappear under the waves and then pop up. Swells on our stern port quarter are not our most comfortable ride as the boat lifts and then surfs down waves usually turning into the wave requiring constant steering corrections.   Too slow for Otto to keep up, so an all-day manual steering exercise. 

1821 Burnt Island Light Station - second oldest lighthouse in Maine

1892 Inn at Cuckolds Lighthouse - now privately owned.
You can rent one of the two suites in the rebuilt lightkeepers house

1857 Seguin Island Light Station sits 180 feet above
 sea level, making it the highest in the state.

1871 Halfway Rock Light Station. Located halfway across Casco Bay.
  It was a "Stag Lighthouse" - deemed too dangerous for women or families

1897 Spring Point Ledge Lighthouse at the entrance to South Portland
The only "sparkplug" lighthouse accessible to visitors by land

Weird cloud pattern mimicking the reflections on the water

Doesn't look too rough out until you see waves crashing on a rock

 Made it to South Port Marina a little after noon.  Best diesel price around at $5.99/gal so loaded up with 320 gallons.  Should get us back to the Chesapeake even if we need to occasionally run a little faster speed. Got fuel here last year for just $3.09/gallon!  Dockmaster showed us our slip and suggested we go bow in to be positioned best for NE winds.  We always stern in, so this was different.  We're on the inside of a long T-head, so there's dockage down the entire length and getting on/off from the swim platform is a non-issue.  We will lose our view on Wednesday when a 100' Nordhavn docks on the outside of the T-head, but he'll provide us great protection from wind and waves off the harbor. 

The watchtower atop Cushing Island used through WWII
to aid in protecting Portland Harbor

It is full-size cruise ship season with 1-2 ships docked daily in Portland. 
Norwegian and Virgin here upon arrival Tues. Gone Wed. AM with Celebrity now in port

New neighbors. 2023 100' Nordhavn New Journey protecting us from NE winds.
Perhaps owned by retired drummer Steve Smith of the band Journey? 

Our Journey for Sept. 22, 2026

Sept. 21, 2026 Back to Boothbay Harbor - Heading Home

 Monday Sept. 21, 2026  Southwest Harbor to Boothbay Harbor 82 miles and 7.9 hours

Brother Bill's wedding is over so time to start heading back south. Weather for the past week has been ideal for traveling south.  Getting ready to change significantly as we're looking at a potential Nor'easter forming later in the week with significant winds and waves.  But Monday was a decent day.  Had some rain overnight Sunday but gone before we woke up at 6AM.  Cool morning...50's.  First day of fall and it's feeling it. We're layered up in clothing as we drop the lines at 7 AM.  Running from the flybridge as we'll be going through some of the worst areas for lobster traps and need that extra visibility. Clouds are breaking up and sun starting to break through as we leave Southwest Harbor. 

Leaving Southwest Harbor as the sun rises and the northerly
winds push the last of the rain clouds out to sea

Southwest Harbor home to a Hinckley Yacht plant.  Lots of them moored here

Layered up and trying to stay warm.

Watched this gorgeous old Trumpy boat Mazurka catch us and pass. 
Wondered how he was running a straight line through the lobster traps

Once he got ahead we could tell he was zig-zagging through them just like us. 

Surprisingly calm day most of the trip. We've got an outgoing tide which is helping to push us along.  Nothing really out of the ordinary at this point.  Backtracking now so mostly just passing the sights we've already seen.  Nothing wrong with them.  In fact, quite the opposite.  Beautiful scenery with water, islands, trees, lobster boats, lighthouses.  Just stuff we've seen and have posted pictures of before. Couple seals showed their heads and a few Atlantic dolphins came by but so quickly we were unable to even get a phone out for a picture.  Made it back to Boothbay Harbor earlier than expected.  Docked just after 3PM so time to hit the discount souvenir shop we found on our last trip.  Then over to Footbridge Brewery for a drink, playing some cards and dinner. 

Passing close by the 1858 Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse
 as we leave Mt. Desert Island

Hauling the traps and checking the catch.

Nature Conservancy in Maine has ownership of many islands
 insuring they'll remain undisturbed

1854 Heron Neck Lighthouse on Green's Island near Vinalhaven, ME

Nice afternoon for a sail before the weather turns ugly.

Just outside of Boothbay Harbor is the 1883 Ram Island Light Station

Our Lady Queen of Peace church. A historic landmark
on the waterfront in Boothbay Harbor

Journey for Sept. 21, 2026

Sept. 19, 2026 Schoodic Point, ME Wedding Bells

Saturday, Sept 19, 2026  Bill and Barb's Wedding Day 

Fri. Sept 18, 2026  A major factor for returning to Maine on this year's cruise was for my youngest brother Bill's wedding.   He and his fiancée love Maine and decided that a small family and friend's wedding on the rocky shoreline at Schoodic Point was the perfect setting for them.  Southwest Harbor made for a decent rendezvous location with some of the family flying in.  Nice benefit for us - a couple days of shore leave away from the boat. Real beds. Real shower with unlimited hot water.  You have no idea how nice that is after 4 months of taking Navy showers!!  My older brother Joe and his son Dan picked us up Friday for a day of local exploring.  Hit the Wendell Gilley wood carving museum first.  He was a local plumber who started carving birds as a hobby. Completely self-taught. Became a passion for him. Eventually sold his plumbing business and spent the rest of his life carving.  The museum has an impressive collection of his works and even sponsors carving classes. 

Pileated Woodpecker

Waterfowl were always a favorite carving

Carved a lot of owls too!

Collection of birds feasting on local seafood 

Puffin

Life size carving of eagle and turkey

Carving class was going on during our visit

Next stop was the Maine Granite Museum.  Surprisingly interesting.  Mt Desert Island was a huge granite exporter.  The locally mined Cadillac Mountain rock was some of the strongest stone available and used in the construction of many historic buildings and monuments. Impressive display of tools, stone samples and memorabilia.  The property has an old quarry on the land, and the owner is passionate about the subject.  He does hands on demonstrations with local school children throughout the year.  Part geology and part history lesson. 

Map of Mt Desert Island showing locations of all the granite quarries. 
Photos of historic granite buildings with reference to which quarry supplied the stone

Tools of the trade hanging on the wall. Tables hold hands-on demonstrations

All sorts of old stone lifting equipment - clamps, pulleys, etc.

Stopped in Bar Harbor on the way to the Inn for a quick libation at Atlantic Brewery.  Nice flight of beers.  Then met up with more of the family for dinner at Black Friar Pub before heading to Crocker Inn and Restaurant over on Hancock Point to meet up with the balance of the family.  Drinks around the fire pit and then time to try out that shower and bed. 

Crocker House Inn - our home for the weekend

Saturday Sept 19, 2026  Nice Maine blueberry pancakes at the inn for breakfast.  Then a walk around the Hancock Point area for some exercise.  Neighborhood wharf made for a scenic stroll.  Then around the point and back.  Good scenery. Was baffled by numerous old growth apple trees which just seemed randomly scattered.  Found out the area once consisted of several old homesteads. Most had a grove with a few trees which provided a bartering commodity for essentials like salt, sugar, tea, etc. Several of the trees are heirloom varieties of interest to local horticulturists.  All of them loaded with apples. 

Nice view from Hancock Point

Inspecting a randomly growing apple tree at the old wharf building

On to the wedding.  Bill and Barb have been dating for over 15 years.  Sort of came as a surprise they were actually getting married but glad and happy for them.  There were six kids in our family growing up, and everyone made it along with husbands, wives, nieces and nephews. Great family get together at a spectacular location in Arcadia National Park. Schoodic Point is the first contact the morning sunshine hits in this area.  Rough and rocky shoreline down to the Atlantic Ocean.  Can be very dramatic with crashing waves when the seas are up but more subdued on this calm sunny day.  Wonderful ceremony.  They even had references included from "The Princess Bride"!   Cocktail reception at Frazier Point  with its scenic waterfront picnic area.   Then back to the inn for another late night of drinking, reminiscing, and laughter.  

Hard to make a graceful entry across boulder paths

"Exchanging of the Words" as they called it

Congratulations to the newlyweds

The extended family clan in attendance.

My brothers and sister - Joe, John, Sue, Pete, Bill and Paul.

Sunday Sept 20, 2026  It's sort of become a tradition for a group breakfast on Sunday morning after one of our family get togethers.  No exception today. Then lots of long goodbyes as everyone started heading out.  Brother Paul and his wife LeeAnn were kind enough to give us a ride back to the boat. A fun weekend but I was ready for some rest and a bit of quiet time. 

Sunday morning group breakfast