July 28,2025 A Hole in a Rock and a Bunch of Birds

Monday July 28, 2025 Gaspe to L'Anse-a-Beaufils 46 miles and 5.2 hours

Time to finally get going again and continue our travels. Nice to get a break and continue recouping from our colds. Before leaving all together we needed to head over to the fuel dock. Time for a pump out and while there added a bit of fuel. Only 100 gallons a side to keep the tanks over half full. But at $1.90 per liter, it still hurt a bit!!

Leaving the town of Gaspe after an extended stay

Easy cruise down the Gaspe Bay. Started off up top with a forecast 75 degree day but winds were on our nose and we decided to run from below for awhile. Glad we got everything set up for running on the flybridge since we quickly swapped back after rounding Pointe Saint Pierre and started closing in on Perce Rock. This is one of the most iconic rock formations on the water in Canada. As we were approaching, we were a bit disappointed initially. A pretty hazy day wasn't providing the spectacular scenery we had hoped. But a Minke whale surfaced close enough that I needed to immediately throw the engines into neutral until it surfaced a few more times and moved away. Of course, too busy watching it to remember to take a picture. But it lightened the mood and we proceeded to the rock. Perce rock is famous for the hole in it at sea level. Not enough water to go through it but certainly large enough that we would easily fit through the hole. As we went around to the back side of the rock we were greeted with a fantastic view. The sun was shining on the multicolored formation and our proximity to the rock diminished any haze effect. At low tide people can actually walk across a small connecting stretch of land to get from the mainland to the rock. Just be sure and give yourself time to get back before the tide changes.

Approaching Perce Rock as seen through the haze

As we got closer the haze disappeared

Rounding the rock. Not it's most photogenic side

Coming around to the sunny side

Big tour boat passing by gives a scale for the rock and hole

Yup. Good to be back on the water in nice conditions

Pretty regular parade of tour boats leaving the town of Perce to tour around the rock and then head out for Isle Bonaventure. This island is a bird sanctuary for a huge colony of Gannets (estimated at 50,000) that nest here during the summer months. While you can get tours to the island and walk out to see the nesting area up close, we were able to get a feel for the magnitude of the colony just by circling the island and seeing the way they cling to every outcropping on the seaward side of the island. And there was no mistaking the smell of such a large congregation of birds even down at our level.

Approaching the point of Isle Bonaventure with Gannet colony. Everything white is birds.

Top of the rock is preferred nesting area, but any flat shelf will work

Watching them dive for food is fascinating. Fly high, tuck their wings,
nose dive straight down and slam into the water.

Not sure how they find their mate and nests in such a large colony

You can actually tour on the island and get closer to the birds

Next stop was the pleasant fishing village of L'Anse-a-Beaufils. Small town but had an interesting museum which showcased the Roberts Co General Store circa 1928. The Roberts Company was established in 1765 and essentially developed a monopoly that lasted about 200 years for salt cod exporting. The town has converted the old fish packing plant into a restaurant, music hall, gift shop. There's an ice cream shop and the Pit Caribou Microbrewerie. They've been in business about 15 years, brew right here and are one of the larger regional breweries. Make an extensive variety of very nice beers. Best part, you get a free beer as a visiting boater! The harbor master Dominique is a hoot. Very entertaining personality and most helpful with information. Certainly has political views about Canada vs Quebec, Canada vs England, and of course, Canada vs Trump.