July 29, 2025 A Smooth Start and a Rough Ending

 Tuesday  July 29, 2025   L'Anse-a-Beaufils to Caraquet   57 miles and 5.9 hours

A bit of a late start today as we were trying to make sure we could get reservations at Caraquet before heading out.  Took us until 9:50 and multiple phone calls but we finally got things squared away and headed out the harbor onto hazy but flat calm seas.  Just a bit of a chill in the air so decided to ride inside figuring things would warm up later in the day and allow us to head topside.   Pretty boring first few hours of cruising with "Otto" taking control of a straight-line heading across Chaleur Bay to Caraquet.  Actually rather boring and mundane although that was, unbeknownst to us, getting ready to change. 

Passing the lighthouse at Cap d'Espoir. Translates to Cape Spear.
But after the weather started to change, we decided
it really meant Cape of Despair.  Only picture we took all day.

 Midway through our day and in the middle of the Bay NW winds began as a gentle breeze.   I had checked the forecasts so was not surprised to see a gentle breeze picking up.  The problem was that the breeze continued to strengthen and so the ripples on the water started developing into a shorter chop with some windblown spray.  Still, nothing of concern.  A few hours of this and we'll be to Caraquet.  Weather up here has a mind of its own and is quick to change from the forecasts.  Today was no exception as winds continued to grow along with the waves.  We were taking them on the starboard bow quarter which for the most part wasn't too bad except the wind driven spray was being thrown up across the bow and windshield.  Intervals between the growing waves was short so we were constantly hitting waves at this point.  Mostly now just 2-3 footers but we'd get that occasional 4-5 footer which was starting to disorganize the interior with things getting thrown about.  Nothing seemed to fully alleviate our dilemma.  Stabilizers were on and I tried various speeds and angles.  Good for a while then a weird wave would catch us and Martha was on the floor again trying to pick things up. Finally made it to Caraquet and the safety of the harbor.   Due to our size we had to tie up at the wharf at the commercial docks.   Not ideal and we're still getting tossed around a bit.  A well-deserved drink and a light dinner and off to bed for us.   We're scheduled to have a fuel truck come tomorrow to top us off with some better priced fuel.  Then we'll explore the town.  Lighter winds tomorrow should make for a more enjoyable day.  And we have left the providence of Quebec and formally entered New Brunswick which necessitated our clocks to spring forward an hour from Eastern Daylight Savings Time to Atlantic Daylight Savings Time.  The sun now rises at 5:30 instead of 4:30!! 

Journey for July 30, 2025

Wednesday July 30, 2025  Caraquet

Much nicer day today.  Gentle breeze, partly sunny and 70 degrees.  Tourists seemed to come out from everywhere once the day warmed up.  All dressed like it's a 90 degree day at the beach.   Our diesel delivery was a little delayed, but he finally showed up around noon.  Topped off the tanks with 850 more liters.  Much better price at just $1.53 per liter! Should get us back to Maine before needing any more. 

Artistic birds lining the seaside walkway on the way to the museum. 

Much prefer these over the real pooping ones.

After refueling we needed to determine the best method for getting off the boat if we wanted to visit the Arcadian Museum.   As mentioned, we're tied to the commercial wharf. Thankfully some dockhands were here and got us secured - no way we could have done it by ourselves when we arrived at low tide. Hardly able to get our lines up to them. So we're tied up well above us and due to the tidal range we also have extra line out to provide for riding up and down with the tides.  At high tide the lines are slack and we drift away from the wall, but at low tide we're down low with tight lines and tight against the wall. While I didn't mind jumping between the boat and ladders and climbing up and over the barrier, it wasn't the most enjoyable prospect for Martha.  But she persevered and made it off and back on without issues. 

At high tide it doesn't look too formidable. Except you need to pull the boat
 over against the wall and hop off before the boat moves back away.

The museum was a bit small and everything was only written in French so not sure we fully appreciated the history lesson.  But basically, the Acadians came from France to New France during the 17th and 18th century.  Primarily settling in modern day New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Islands.   After England gained control of New France in the mid 1700's the "Great Upheaval" was a British forced Acadian Exodus.  Of the roughly 15,000 population of Acadians in the maritime provinces, over 11,000 were forcefully removed and their lands distributed to new English migrants. Some returned to France, others made way to Spanish controlled Louisiana becoming Cajuns (an abbreviation of Acadians).   A large number died of disease, starvation and drowning as transport ships relocated them.  By the late 1700's they were allowed to return to the area provided they pledged allegiance to the crown.   They remain decidedly French but have developed a unique regional French dialect.  Caraquet is an active fishing port.  Seasonal fishing for lobster, crab, cod, salmon halibut, etc. is still evident in the many commercial boats in the harbor.  Watched some local youths jumping the 15-20 feet down off the wharfs into the 65 degree water.  Sent a chill down my spine for their safety and also from the thought of the cold water.   Finished our day with fish and chips, a lobster roll and some ice cream.  

Some fairly large netting trawlers in the harbor

Along with smaller and more traditional boats

Freshly steamed homards (lobsters) at the local Poissonnier (fishmonger)
Not a bad price at $11.50 USD

July 28,2025 A Hole in a Rock and a Bunch of Birds

 Monday  July 28, 2025   Gaspe to L'Anse-a-Beaufils     46 miles and  5.2 hours

Time to finally get going again and continue our travels.  Nice to get a break and continue recouping from our colds.  Before leaving all together we needed to head over to the fuel dock.  Time for a pump out and while there added a bit of fuel.  Only 100 gallons a side to keep the tanks over half full.  But at $1.90 per liter, it still hurt a bit!!

Leaving the town of Gaspe after an extended stay

Easy cruise down the Gaspe Bay.  Started off up top with a forecast 75 degree day but winds were on our nose and we decided to run from below for awhile.   Glad we got everything set up for running on the flybridge since we quickly swapped back after rounding Pointe Saint Pierre and started closing in on Perce Rock.  This is one of the most iconic rock formations on the water in Canada.   As we were approaching, we were a bit disappointed initially.   A pretty hazy day wasn't providing the spectacular scenery we had hoped.   But a Minke whale surfaced close enough that I needed to immediately throw the engines into neutral until it surfaced a few more times and moved away.  Of course, too busy watching it to remember to take a picture.  But it lightened the mood and we proceeded to the rock.   Perce rock is famous for the hole in it at sea level.  Not enough water to go through it but certainly large enough that we would easily fit through the hole.   As we went around to the back side of the rock we were greeted with a fantastic view.  The sun was shining on the multicolored formation and our proximity to the rock diminished any haze effect.   At low tide people can actually walk across a small connecting stretch of land to get from the mainland to the rock.   Just be sure and give yourself time to get back before the tide changes.  

Approaching Perce Rock as seen through the haze

As we got closer the haze disappeared

Rounding the rock.  Not it's most photogenic side

Coming around to the sunny side

  

Big tour boat passing by gives a scale for the rock and hole

Yup.  Good to be back on the water in nice conditions

Pretty regular parade of tour boats leaving the town of Perce to tour around the rock and then head out for Isle Bonaventure.  This island is a bird sanctuary for a huge colony of Gannets (estimated at 50,000) that nest here during the summer months.  While you can get tours to the island and walk out to see the nesting area up close, we were able to get a feel for the magnitude of the colony just by circling the island and seeing the way they cling to every outcropping on the seaward side of the island.  And there was no mistaking the smell of such a large congregation of birds even down at our level.  

Approaching the point of Isle Bonaventure with Gannet colony.  Everything white is birds.

Top of the rock is preferred nesting area, but any flat shelf will work

Watching them dive for food is fascinating.  Fly high, tuck their wings,
nose dive straight down and slam into the water.

Not sure how they find their mate and nests in such a large colony

You can actually tour on the island and get closer to the birds

Next stop was the pleasant fishing village of L'Anse-a-Beaufils.   Small town but had an interesting museum which showcased the Roberts Co General Store circa 1928.   The Roberts Company was established in 1765 and essentially developed a monopoly that lasted about 200 years for salt cod exporting.  The town has converted the old fish packing plant into a restaurant, music hall, gift shop.    There's an ice cream shop and the Pit Caribou Microbrewerie.  They've been in business about 15 years, brew right here and are one of the larger regional breweries.  Make an extensive variety of very nice beers.  Best part, you get a free beer as a visiting boater!  The harbor master Dominique is a hoot.  Very entertaining personality and most helpful with information. Certainly has political views about Canada vs Quebec, Canada vs England, and of course, Canada vs Trump.  

A few of the original outbuildings from the fish processing plant have been converted to homes 

 

The Roberts Company General Store Museum

Tucked into our slip in L'Anse-a-Beaufils

Journey for July 28, 2025
Note the detour loop around Isle Bonaventure

July 27, 2025 Chillin' in Gaspe

 Sunday July 27, 2025   Still at the dock in Gaspe.

We had planned to spend a few days in Gaspe but extended it due to strong winds.  Next travel day will take us past Perce Rock and I'lle Bonaventure which are supposedly quite scenic, but also a bit exposed.  We want a decent cruising day and 30+mph gusts just won't work.  So, we sit at the dock another day.  

Wide view looking past the marina on the right looking out to Gaspe Peninsula

Gaspe is a town with a long history, but not much architecturally to show for it.   The Mi'kmaq First Nations tribes used this area in the summers due to the abundance of seafood at the confluence of the York, Dartmouth and St Johns rivers. Salmon, trout, codfish, shellfish all in abundance.  So not surprising that in July 1534 Jaque Cartier found them along the shorelines when he landed, traded some trinkets, put up a 30' wooden cross bearing the kings crest and claimed the land for New France.  Hence the reason Gaspe claims the title of "Birthplace of French America".  After planting his cross, Cartier departed for further exploration of the St. Lawrence never to return. The event is marked with a 32' one piece granite cross on the riverfront that was raised in 1934 at the 400th anniversary celebration.

These tablets are outside the museum and provide a pictorial of Cartier's landing

The 32' granite cross commemorating 
the 1534 claiming of New France

For centuries French, Normandy and Basque fishermen seasonally worked the waters and shores providing salt cod for the homelands.   First real permanent settlements didn't occur until after the Treaty of Paris in 1763 when England gained control of New France.  Land was provided to English soldiers who wished to settle there.  In addition, Loyalists fleeing the newly independent United States arrived.   The economy revolved around the abundant cod fishing and the town became a significant trading port shipping salt cod around the world as its primary export. Through the 19th and early 20th centuries the town grew and was a popular tourist location.  The port was eventually overtaken by larger ports in Montreal and Halifax. Overfishing for cod had decimated that industry.  Other industries like a paper mill and copper mine had run their course and the town economically struggled.  It now survives mostly on it's history, tourism and nearby national parks.   One disappointment for us was the lack of any real historical area.  After the construction of a bridge across the York River in the 1930's closed off the harbor, road and railways became the major means of transport.   During "revitalization efforts" in the 70's most of the waterfront area was converted into a 4-lane road.  Nowadays, a nice wooden boardwalk has been added between the water and the road providing a scenic walkway with historical markers that extends for several miles.

Rue De La Reine - the main tourist street 

Tourist photo just to prove we were here

We took advantage of our stay with a visit to the local museum.  It does a very good job of taking you through the entire history of the area.  The Gaspe peninsula is ancient rock and the terminus of the Appalachian mountain chain which extends the length of the east coast.   A few restaurants, a very small Saturday farmers market, an IGA and a Maxi grocery store, a patisserie, a dollar store, a liquor store, a Canadian Tire (similar to WalMart) and a pharmacy about covers the town.  Not even a microbrewery although the marina does have a decent pub and outstanding food.   First lobster roll of the trip - nice!

Closest we've gotten to a sunset picture in quite a while

July 24, 2025 Rounding the Point and on to Gaspe.

 Thursday  July 24, 2025   Riviere au Renard to Gaspe    39 miles and 4.5 hours

Great night's sleep at anchor.  Protected harbor, gentle breeze overnight so just some minor soft rocking.   It's just a habit, but still got up twice to check the anchor alarm plots to be sure we weren't dragging.  Should not have worried at all.   When we raised anchor at 9:30 to depart it had a nice covering of heavy mud and gravel.   Took a few extra minutes with the washdown hose to get it all cleared off.   Another drizzly, damp and overcast day.  Still just highs into the 60's.  Winds fairly light so seas are behaving.  A bit of a negative current most of today but the currents are much more moderate than earlier on the St. Lawrence.  Shoreside scenery flattens out as we approach Canada's tallest lighthouse (112') at Cap-Des-Rosiers.

Cap-Des-Rosiers Lighthouse on a dreary day

Across a bit more open water headed to our turning point at Cap Gaspe.   Picturesque but rugged rocks standing hard against the open waters.  The Cap Gaspe lighthouse is perched high atop the rocks.   The seas were expectedly a bit confused going around the point but once around the point and heading up the Gaspe Bay the winds disappeared and the water flattened.  While the outboard side of the peninsular is all tall hard steep rock, the inland side of the peninsula is a more forgiving and forested landscape.  

Approaching the rugged point of Cap Gaspe

Lighthouse at the point of Cap Gaspe

The view from atop the lighthouse must be spectacular

Calm conditions as we head up Gaspe Bay

The marina has an inside harbor area for seasonal boats while transient boaters are placed on a long finger pier on the outside.   Not an issue except that dock is shared with the local sailing club who happened to be having a number of summer sailing activities for youths in progress.   Looks like 3 groups.   One group in small regular sailboats appears to be setting up for a race - at least they're a bit away from the dock.  But then there's another group of 6-7 small home-built boats that appear to just be floundering away within 150' of the dock.   On top of that there are two other boats loaded with young kids and counselors who appear to be playing "pirate" with each other - jumping around from one boat to another.  Not a care in the world to how close I am to them. All this going on while I'm trying to spin the boat 180 degrees, not run them over and get docked.  And of course it starts raining again!  People up here are crazy.  It's 65 degrees out, the water is 58 degrees and these kids are jumping in the water!!  Now I understand how Canadians can come to Myrtle Beach in February and sit on the beach and go in the water!!

Just a small portion of the sailing club flotilla greeting us upon arrival

Best benefit of being on the transient dock is we have an awesome view (when not fogged or clouded in) and it has a 50 AMP outlet, so we've been able to run the heat again!!!   With Martha still fighting off that cold it's giving her a nice reprieve from the damp and bundling under layers of blankets. Plan to stay until Sunday.   Weather changeup on Saturday to strong NW winds so a no travel day as we have some open water to cross.  Back to SW and moderate on Sunday.  We'll see if that forecast holds.  Weather seems pretty changeable here from hour to hour - never mind trying to look days ahead. 

Journey for July 24, 2025

July 23, 2025 Under the Weather - In More Ways Than One

 Wednesday  July 23, 2025  St-Anne-Des-Monts to Riviere au Renaurd   103 miles and 9.75 hours

We had planned for a 2-day stopover in St-Anne-Des-Monts but strong winds and waves helped push the decision to stay an extra day.  Added to it was the fact that we both picked up colds.  The usual stuff.  Feeling fatigued, stuffed up heads, sore throats, cough, etc.    Certainly not the worst cases we've had but enough to make us decide to just chill out.  We're not at 100% but I'm feeling well enough to get going and we've got a great day forecast for another long 100 mile day.   Martha still suffering a bit more - seems to be a few days behind me with a bit worse symptoms. 

St-Anne church looms over the waterfront.
Pretty substantial church for the population size.

St-Anne-Des-Monts is one of the larger towns along the Gaspe peninsular with an area population of around 6000.  So they have a few amenities - a small museum (aquarium based), a grocery, pharmacy, liquor store, patisserie, chocolate shop, Tim Hortons, and even a microbrewery.   While the town used to be a major drop off point for the fishing fleet, it now serves tourists visiting the area and Gaspe National Park.   We are in the middle of "Construction Holiday" - last 2 weeks of July when construction workers take off.  Explained the large numbers of campers we saw around town.  There's an extensive concrete pier that used to be the commercial dock and has been converted for recreational fishing.  Watched a guy pull up a HUGE lobster on rod and reel.  Not sure how he was able to get it up on the dock but he quickly bagged it.  Commercial lobstering season finishes here July 1, so not sure if it was a legal catch.  Only other things being caught were some smaller Atlantic mackerel.

Display headed to the wharf commemorates a record Mackerel caught by locals

Numerous driftwood carvings and works of art around town

Winds finally shifted direction and lightened up so made our 7AM escape for Riviere au Renaurd relatively easy.  Outside temperatures pushing 70 with hazy sunshine, but the 55 degree water still put a chill on things. Nice day to be out on the water.  Mostly flat seas and much of the day we had a minor positive current. Ran mostly 1-2 miles offshore in 200' of water.  Hills and cliffs falling down to the water's edge and another small hamlet every place a stream discharged and created a valley area and some flatlands.  Most were/are based on fishing so have a small harbor for a few boats. Not really designed to accommodate us.

Start of the day with the sun trying to force it's way out.

Passing the lighthouse at La Martre with its population of 180 

Pointe-a-la-Renommee Lighthouse 

Calm seas and nice scenery ahead

And behind !

Saw a couple more whales breach the surface but again never quite quick enough with a camera. Highlight of the day was passing through our furthest point north 49°16.099 at Cap du Gros Morne.  This is even further north than we traveled on the Great Loop when in the Georgian Bay and North Channel of Canada. Arrived at the fantastic harbor at Riviere Au Renaurd.  It's the current fishing center with a large fleet of commercial boats.  Inner harbor has a marina, but the outer harbor is large and protected with plenty of room for multiple boats to anchor.  So we dropped anchor with about seven sailboats for the night and slept well to gentle rocking. 

Coordinates show our northernmost point.  

Entrance to Riviere au Renard harbor with the fishing boats tied to the docks

Journey for July 23, 2025

July 20, 2025 Rain, Cold and an Unexpected visit from Dense Fog

 Sunday July 20, 2025  Rimouski to Ste-Anne-des-Monts  105 miles and 10.1 hours

Overnight rain came in as expected, starting at about 5AM.  We woke to find two sailboats docked behind us, not sure exactly when they arrived, but they appeared to be staying put to wait out the rain.  We, on the other hand, have plans to leave at 7AM.  We knew that rain was forecast for most of the morning, but no wind and seas were flat calm, making for a pleasant enough ride from the pilot house.  Temperatures may get into 60's shoreside but water temps still mid 50's so that's what we feel on the water. It is cold and damp despite our best efforts at layered clothing.  Most marinas only have 110V/30AMP power which runs everything on the boat except the Heat/AC system which requires 220V/50AMP.   Midship master stateroom is very cool sitting down at water level so we're making good use of those extra blankets.

Not a bad start to the day - just some light rain and calm seas

Started off making good time with a decent current push and enjoyable flat seas.  Rain not too heavy and doable but then four hours into the journey, still drizzling and rainy, but now with the addition of fog.  Hadn't really hit any fog until this point on the trip, but we knew that eventually we'd have to deal with it.  May as well get some good practice now. Watching the radar and AIS closely, it appears that there are very few of us out traveling today.  There are no lobster traps or crab pots in this area, so that's a plus! Nothing to dodge there...and hardly any navigational markers of any sort.  In addition to our running lights, we set the automated fog horn to sound intermittently (one long blast every three minutes), otherwise, we're just carefully moving along and staying on the 200' depth line.

Fog rolled in reducing the visibility. 

Probably not the best time to be reading the story of the ill-fated Empress of Ireland which sank off the shores of Rimouski.  On May 29, 1914, she was headed from Quebec to Liverpool in dense FOG middle of the night.  Got rammed midship by the Storstad loaded with 11,000 tons of coal.  Hit so hard it pierced 20' into the ship.  The Empress had 1477 passengers and crew.  Damage was so bad the ship keeled over and sank within 14 minutes taking over 1000 lives.  Worlds third worst disaster at sea after the Titanic and Lusitania.  Forgotten in history as shortly after it sank WWI started and sinking of Lusitania got all the coverage.

After four hours the fog dissipated just as mysteriously as it appeared.  Still getting a bit of drizzle and it continued as a very gloomy looking day.  Made it to St-Anne-des-Monts and the marina. Some difficulty with language barrier but worked through it and got the last spot for big boats that had been reserved for us. Small marina, rough floating docks and only 110V/15AMP power, so we'll really need to watch which appliances we use at any given time.  Reservations originally for 2 nights to recuperate after 2 days of 100-mile trips. Weather forecast is not cooperating.  Excessive (for us) sustained winds so tacked on a third night.

Most interesting building in town is the Ste-Anne-des-Monts church
which sits majestically overlooking the harbor

Stay tuned, we are currently at a latitude of 49°7'58"N...getting very close to the northernmost point on our trip (or of any boat trip we've taken, actually).

Journey for July 20, 2025 

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