Oct 30, 2022 The Albemarle Loop

 Oct. 19-22 - Elizabeth City, NC

This is our third visit by boat to Elizabeth City.  Once when bringing As You Wish #1 down   from Annapolis after we purchased it, once when going northward via the Dismal Swamp Canal route while on the Great Loop, and now this time.  The town holds special memories for us as it's where we first became friends with our Looper boating buddies Russ and Jax with a simple invite to go explore the local brewery.  That started a long string of trial flights at breweries all along the Loop together.   It was nice to see there are now 2 breweries in town and another a bit further outside town.   The old Ghost Harbor Brewery we previously visited has moved into a larger taproom facility across from Hoppin Johs Restaurant while the actual brewery remains down the alley.   The newest brewery is Seven Sounds. It's right on the waterfront next to the Elizabeth River drawbridge.  Impressive facility with venue rental areas in an older renovated building. Both have a nice selection of beers although Ghost Harbor offers a few more of the stouts, porters and browns we prefer. They also have a very cool logo.

Seven Sounds Brewery takes reuse and repurpose to the next level

Elizabeth City, as part of the Albemarle Loop program, offers 2 free nights dockage.   We stayed 3 and no one seemed concerned. They are known as the "Hospitality City" for their welcoming attitude towards boaters.  Dave, a local sailor, came by and checked on us twice during our stay offering to take us into town if we needed anything.  So, while the "Rose Buddies" of old have since passed on, the city residents continue their welcoming attitude.  Glad to see progress occurring in the efforts to revitalize downtown while maintaining the old architecture.  Along with the new brewery an industrial 3 story building right by the bridge has been converted into lofts.  And a really cute old fashioned gas station we were convinced was doomed for destruction has been renovated and converted to a coffee house.  Elizabeth City is also home to the free Museum of the Albemarle providing a good review of the history of the area. 

Oct 22-31 - Albemarle Plantation Marina - 40 miles

Easy 4 hour cruise back down the Pasquotank River, west on the Albemarle and into Yeopim Creek to Albemarle Plantation Marina.  Mostly open waters so little of interest although you need to be sure and stay clear of the Harvey Point Restricted area.  We weren't sure exactly what it was all about but plenty of markers with no entry signage.   Folks at AP gave us the low down.  It's a mission training facility for overt operations.  They tell of a replica of Osama Bin Ladens house being constructed there and used for practice runs before the actual raid.  There's been a few bomb blasts during our stay, so I guess another mission to somewhere is in the works. 

We noticed a boat on AIS ahead of us on the same course and when they turned right after passing the last restricted marker, we knew they were headed to the marina.  We idled back to their speed to insure they had plenty of time to get secured before our arrival.   Pretty narrow and shallow channel heading in.  Couple areas showing 1' or less under the keel but per the locals just soft silty mud so not an issue.  It's another location offering 2 free nights.  We'll be staying a few extra as we await some packages that we had shipped here.  Friendly folks so far.   Got an invitation to docktails from John and Nancy on Vagari - a gorgeous 65' Offshore Flushdeck.  They had also invited Brian and Linda on Vahevala - the boat we followed in - a 52' steel Kristen trawler. We had seen that boat during our stopover in Urbanna but never met them.   Rainy and windy day on Sunday so just chilled on the boat. 

Journey for Oct 19

We wound up staying much longer than anticipated at AP. Waiting for packages, scheduling conflicts for space at Edenton, small craft weather advisories, etc.   Feels free to skip the below.  It's just a day-to-day diary. 

Monday, we got a golfcart and toured the facilities.   It is big.  Marina, golf course, club house, restaurant, grill, pool, tennis, fitness center, etc.  Lots of houses, some condos, even some "plantation sized" lots suitable for equestrian use.  Our hosts for doctails, John and Nancy are Miami natives but fell in love with this place during their stay and are selling their boat and going back to dirt dwellers here.   They can't say enough good things about how friendly and welcoming the folks here have been.  They say "We keep waiting to see when the medication is going to wear off on these people.  They can't be this happy all the time".  Group of 8 for dinner in the grill. John and Nancy had invited friends Alan and Margaret, plus Brian and Linda and us.  We got told about the Thursday farmers market and also learned that  Vahevala already had reservations in Edenton starting Thurs for the one slip big enough for either of our boats but not both.  So, they will leave after the farmers market, and we'll continue our stay here until they leave.  Weather hasn't been great with small craft advisories and N winds 15-20-25 knots so we're OK just being parked.

Tuesday our first package arrived. A Vacuflush vacuum pump rebuild kit.  After a couple hours with my head down in the bilge working on the sanitary system, we finally have the plumbing all working again - that's the hope anyway - we'll know better after a few days.  Life on a boat ain't all sunshine and margaritas!

Wednesday - somehow a discussion had started between Nancy and Brian about Jalapeno Poppers and who made the best.  Naturally a contest ensued to be hosted on Vagari.  We had a big gathering with the usuals of Nancy and John, Linda and Brian, us, plus the newest couple to pull into the marina - Dan and Tanya on Crimson Tug an American Tug and also a Canadian couple Wayne and Christine on Shore Linn a huge Viking CPMY.  Nancy had instructed everyone to bring $6 in singles for a couple rounds of Right - Left-Center.    Martha walked out with $24 in freshly stacked bills as winner of the second round!

Sampling Jalapeno Poppers on Vagari

Thursday's Farmers Market was just for AP so not huge but an extensive selection of fresh produce, meats, fish, baked goods, etc.  Afterwards we waved goodbye to Crimson Tug and Vahevala.  But in came new guests Rick and Beth on Lake Effect.  Another package arrived with trigger relays for the HVAC system.  The unit controlling the master stateroom had gone out several weeks ago. To keep the master going until parts arrived, I had swapped the bad relay with a good one for the forward berth.  Other than being in an uncomfortable contorted position down in the engine room to replace the parts it wasn't that bad of a job.  And now all 4 units are back working properly.  

Friday, we took the golf cart out for another spin.  Stopped and exchanged a few books at their library - one of the largest we've seen at any marina.  Even picked up a few videos to watch.  Somehow we ended up at the sales office!! Got a nice presentation and a drive around to see some lots.  Like everywhere. prices here have skyrocketed especially with a heavy influx of new people during Covid.  

These condos would do OK as a "dirt home".
Back side view overlooks a golf green, then the marina, then the bay.

Saturday was sort of an idle day.  Our Clemson Tigers had a bye week.  Just as well.  One drawback here is the spotty wifi making streaming anything pretty difficult. Big celebration at night.  Boaters were asked to decorate their boats for Halloween.  Some people went all out - us, not so much.   They set up a tent just off the docks with several tables of deserts and most folks who decorated also had beverages available for adults or treats for the kids.  Good crowd of residents who came out to walk the docks.  

Our Dread Pirate Robers Halloween Pumpkin

Wish I could say we did something interesting on Sunday, but overall, a pretty chill do nothing day.  Well, we did wind up doing another group dinner up at The Grille.