May 12-13, 2024 Wrightsville Beach and Beaufort, NC

Sun. May 12, 2024 Osprey Marina to Wrightsville Beach 9.8 hours and 90 miles

Trying to capture the Northern Lights

Drama ahead. It had been reported that construction at the Onslow Beach swing bridge would be shutting down the ICW for entire weekday stretches starting on Mon 5/13 and continuing until the end of June. This section connects Wrightsville Beach to Swansboro and ultimately Beaufort. Oddly, this was all being reported via the bridge tenders and construction company. We never saw an official Coast Guard Local Notice to Mariners (LNM). Right up through Sunday night we continued getting mixed reports and rumors. The only alternative route is running offshore from Masonboro Inlet to Beaufort Inlet. Complicating that plan, Monday was the only day with reasonable 1-2' sea conditions forecast before turning to 3-4-5' seas for the balance of the week. We decided we needed to get moving. If the bridge truly did get shut down, we needed that Monday for offshore. All day Sunday we kept checking sources. Still mixed and no official LNM. In the meantime, we had gotten an early start leaving Osprey at 7:00 and enjoyed a pleasant few hours cruising before the Myrtle Beach boating crowd started waking up.

Osprey and it's huge nest guarding
the entrance to Osprey Marina

I long for the good ole days when the ICW from
Osprey to Myrtle Beach looked like this

Instead of this!

From 10:30 until well after we anchored it was a constant stream of small boaters out enjoying a lovely, sunny Mother's Day. Can't blame them...but aggravating for us. This entire stretch has become one long section of developed land. Homes, docks, boats, people. At least no flies or no-see-ums to contend with. But I much prefer the solitude and quiet beauty of the GA and SC lowcountry areas for cruising.

Passing Lightkeepers Marina - our home for 6 months last year

Center consoles with twin and triple outboards - the boat of choice around here

Enjoying the day on the sandbar.

We dropped anchor after a long day right beside Masonboro Inlet. Late afternoon but the sandy beach areas were still loaded with the last of the day boaters. By dusk they and their wakes were gone and we had a peaceful night at anchor. Evening reports sounded more confident the bridge closing would be delayed, but still no official LNM so we committed to leaving in the morning on an offshore route.

Peaceful sunset at Wrightsville Beach

Journey for May 12, 2024

Mon. May 13, 2024 Wrightsville Beach to Beaufort, NC 9.5 hours and 81 miles

Up early. Still no LNM for the bridge. Weather says 2' seas and 6 second periods between waves. Very doable so we head out. A bit choppy outside the inlet but we figured it would settle down. WRONG! Our heading is a straight shot to Beaufort.

Early morning heading out due east into sun

It takes us about 5 miles offshore and outside the restricted entry area for Camp Lejeune. Seas are more like 3-4' with a short period. Confused but mostly on the bow. We try running our normal 1400 rpm but it feels like we're pounding. Try up on plane telling ourselves don't worry about fuel burn. But then the wind is blowing copious amounts of spray up we don't like. Finally settle into a 1200 rpm pace and 8.5 mph. Reduces the pounding but will mean a bit longer day out here. Martha feels a bit queasy but works through it. Autopilot is working itself silly trying to hold course. An aircraft carrier is running hovercraft landing exercises just off the restricted area at Camp Lejeune. Watched them come in and land through the back belly several times while the carrier shadowed us passing the zone.

Hovercraft entering rear landing bay on carrier

View from our lower helm

We make it to Beaufort late afternoon and tie up at Homer Smith's Marina. First time here. Great marina. Just a little further from town but still easily walkable. Courtesy car, free laundry, new bathrooms. All top notch. We get a prime T head spot. Exhausted after 2 long and grueling but very different days - we both crash by 8:30 for a long fitful night's sleep. We'll stay a few days to recoup. Bad weather - rain, winds, possible hail over the next 2 days. The 39' Kady Krogen Avalon is docked behind us. We met Rich and Terrie doing our Loop in 2019. They were in our group of boats that ran offshore NJ and took pictures together passing the Statue of Liberty. Great catching up with them. The local AGLCA harbor hosts graciously coordinated docktales for 10+ looper boats who are in Beaufort

Tuesday evening. Very fun to feed off the excitement of these in-progress new loopers.