Sept 10, 2024 Heading Back East Tonawanda to Gasport

Tuesday Sept 10, 2024  Tonawanda to Gasport  26 miles and 5.25 hours

After a couple of cool, cloudy and occasionally rainy days it was nice to get back to sunshine and 70's.  Leaving the wall in Tonawanda we headed west for the last small section of the Erie Canal taking us out onto the Niagra River.  Dipped the keel there to complete the entire western side of the canal.  Then turned back around with intentions to make it to Gasport for the evening.   We'll try to stop at several of the towns we missed.

Wide open waters of the Niagra River

Screen shot from Nebo app showing us out of the Erie canal.

Lockport was the halfway point on today's trip.  Just like going west we hit the locks AGAIN when the tour boat was coming through. This time another boat Seas the Dream was also waiting to go eastbound.  Same process as last time.  We entered the top lock and waited for the tour boat to get to the lower lock.  Then raise them halfway and us down halfway.  Pass each other at the midpoint and then finally drop us through the second lock.   Decided since we had some extra time to tie up at the lower park wall and explore the old Flight of 5 original locks and the museum.  Pretty interesting that the original canal, the expanded canal and the final canal locks have always been at this location.  That was a result of the Niagra Escarpment - the same rock formation that extends to Niagra Falls and beyond creating a steep cliff like drop-off due to uneven rock erosion.

The flight of 5 "expanded" locks dating back to 1862

Locks were all constructed from cut stone.
Recreated to original specs and operational wooden doors

Floors of the lower chambers are ancient hardwoods that require constant water flow.
This prevents exposure to air that would cause them to rot and deteriorate 

Then on to Gasport where Seas the Dream was already tied up.. Small town with a short wall with power beside a park.  Quiet and peaceful. Martha had done some research and discovered the laundromat was in a building right beside the canal and had very good reviews.  We were well overdue for laundry day so no way she would let me bypass the town.  I had seen reviews talking about an old-fashioned hardware store in town.  Unfortunately, it had closed down and was replaced by a lumber yard. Only other businesses in town were 2 restaurants.  We opted for The Canalside Inn - Beef and Beer and some pretty good sandwiches for dinner.   Not the most interesting stop on our trip but served its purpose.  

Old steel canal workboat on display at Lockport

Journey for Sept. 10, 2024

September 8, 2024 End of the canal. Tonawanda NY

Sunday Sept. 8, 2024  Medina to Tonawanda  35 miles and 6 hours

Getting ready to leave Medina for the 8AM start of the lift bridge operators' day.  He had given us the phone number to call him before we left so he would be ready - just in case he was at the other bridge he operates.  Started talking to him on the phone when he said he was right outside the boat.  Doing his morning rounds at the harbor wall to find out everyone's intentions.  Two canal boats were also heading west at the same time, so we all got underway together.  They let me lead as we would be traveling at a faster pace once past the lift bridge.  Planning for a longish day but also hoping to get tied up in Tonawanda by midafternoon before the forecast rain started.  Scenery was more western NY farmland, corn fields and orchards.

Longer travel days and Martha finally gets her turn at the wheel

In between Medina and Tonawanda is Lockport.  It's a bigger town but has limited facilities for stopping.   This was a hub of activity during the canal days necessitated by a flight of 5 locks.  Because of the time to lock through it was designed with 2 sets of flights.  One for boats westbound and one for eastbound.  Over time the system was modernized, and the east bound locks were turned into a set of 2 large locks that could accommodate the traffic going both directions.   The other flight of 5 locks was left intact but unused and is now a historical site and tourist attraction.   We get delayed due to a tour boat who was topside.  He had just exited the upper lock and would be turning around and coming back down. As a "commercial vessel" he got priority.  An interesting design of the locks is a "pool" between the upper and lower locks. We were raised up to the midpoint, they were lowered down to midpoint, and then we swapped chambers and proceeded.  Topside we were at our highest elevation on the Erie canal at 580'.  

Looking at Lockport locks headed westbound.
New lifts on left, old power plant and Flight of 5 original locks on right

Passing the tour boat in Lockport. We came into the chamber to go up. 
Then he exited into his downbound chamber

Once past Lockport the scenery changed back to more rural river cruising.  Wider, meandering but also getting more and more inhabited with more frequent required slowdowns for docks and tied up boats.  From here there is direct access to Tonawanda, Lake Erie, Buffalo, etc. No more locks, just a few bridges. 

We got to Tonawanda and had no issues finding a spot on the south wall which is the quiet side.   There are town walls on both sides, but each side is a different town.  The north wall is in North Tonawanda. They both charge and both have their own dockmasters.   During the prime season this is a busy place with both walls filled. Plenty to do with several restaurants and bars lining the waterfront and more just a block or two away.  

The Riviera Theatre in Tonawanda.  They have an amazing schedule of shows. 
Many are tribute performances - ABBA, Rush, Elton John, ELO, Prince, etc

One attraction in town is the Carousel Museum.  The town was known for carousel manufacturing with the Allan Herschell company at the forefront.  Back into the mid 1800's they began manufacturing carousels with beautiful hand carved horses.  In their day they were actually adult thrill rides as they spun at much higher speeds than we see them going today. Over time they added other animals - zebras. giraffes, ostrich, lions, frogs, etc.  The original factory is now a museum with a 1916 carousel. The workshop with period machines shows the processes for making the rides and featured the artistry of hand carving the final products.  Also included are additional rides they manufactured over time. After WWII and the start of the baby boom, they began manufacturing rides for Kiddylands.  Basically, anyone could buy a series of rides to create a family friendly roadside attraction.  As a young kid I fondly remember outings to Rye Beach Amusement Park in NY and riding the kiddy coaster, kiddy train, kiddy cars, kiddy helicopter, and kiddy wet boats. 

Original factory is now a museum

The restored 1916 carousel. 

Museum used old photos to recreate the actual workstations for making the horses

They had an area outside with several restored Kiddyland rides. 
I still remember pulling back on the bar and making the helicopter "lift off"

My personal favorite Kiddyland ride and the thing that may have started
 this crazy lifelong boating fascination. A 1957 Kiddie Wet Boat Ride.

We planned on staying an extra day to make a day trip over to Niagra Falls.  Neither of us had ever been there and it seemed a waste not to since we're only 13 miles away.  Easy Uber ride over and back.  Rain was threatening off and on most of the day but held off during our visit. But winds were gusting and carried a lot of mist around to all the viewing areas. The rapids and falls were quite impressive. Just a shame both US and Canada sides have gone so commercial with big buildings ruining what should be the same incredible natural views and beauty experienced by the famed Hudson River School artists of the 1800's

The obligatory selfie pic!

We have been enjoying our share of wings at pubs along the way as we get closer to their birthplace in Buffalo.  Noticed that drumettes here seem to be larger and meatier than back home.  Also, only blue cheese dressing offered - never ranch.   Found out there was a local delicacy we needed to try here in Tonawanda.  Beef on Weck.   I had never heard of it in all my travels.  Basically, thin cut tender roast beef, dipped in au jus and piled high on a soft bun and served with horseradish.  The bun is what makes it special. It has a heavy coating on top of coarse salt and carraway seeds. Swiston's Beef and Keg has been serving them for over 50 years. Highly recommend giving it a try.  Also recommended is District 37.  A new restaurant in town with an extensive tap lineup.   Finally able to get a flight of dark beers which was perfect on this cool rainy evening.

Swiston's famous Beef on Weck.  Now THAT'S a sandwich!!

Met  a lady at the docks who's brother is doing the loop. 
Since we had mostly cloudy and rainy days during our stay,
Sue sent us this picture of the town docks with a nice sunset

Journey for Sept. 8, 2024

September 6, 2024 Brockport to Medina

 Friday Sept. 6, 2024  Brockport to Medina  25 mile and 3.5 hours

After some gorgeous cruising weather days, we're finally hitting a little stretch with forecasted rain arriving this afternoon.  Should be a relatively easy cruising day   No locks but we will need to get 7 bridges lifted as we pass through some smaller towns.  Oftentimes one operator has to work 2 or 3 bridges. This is all original (third version)  early 1900's canal.  Many parts of the canal along here are built up with dikes rather than being a dug ditch. That makes the surrounding countryside, farms, homes, etc.  lower than the canal - sort of an odd feeling. 

Canal, trailway, built up diking and rural western NY scenery

This road passes beneath the canal.  Originally dug by a farmer to let his cows get to pasture on both sides of the canal.  Now a one lane tunnel only usable seasonally.  Water drips down from the canal forming huge icicles in winter making the tunnel unsafe for transit.

We pass through the most northern point of the Erie today at 43.15.371N.  Surprising to see corn stalks nice and green and just reaching maturity.  Back in GA. it long ago would have been harvested and the fields plowed under and reseeded with winter wheat.   We are also coming into apple country.   Several good-looking orchards visible along the route. 

Marker designating northernmost point on the canal

Apple orchards were loaded with fruit. 
Various varieties based on all different colors

 Medina prospered around the canal and then as a railroad center. A highlight of the town is a visit to the railroad museum.  The original large freight loading building now houses a massive HO scale display.  It stretches almost 200' long by 14' wide. Very impressive with the level of detail and scenes depicting early days, manufacturing centers, rural areas, harbors and military activity.

HO railroad display goes back as far as the eye can see

The level of detailing in some of the panoramas was impressive

The town had lots of manufacturing back in the day.  Everything from shirt manufacturing, to foundries, to quarries. This area of the canal was an engineering challenge.  A significant bend along a low creek bed required building a big turning basin and an aqueduct across the nearby creek and falls.  

View from on top of the aqueduct. 65' drop off on left. 
Falls are visible in distance on left

View from on top of aqueduct looking at canal bend, Medina and the basin.
.

When building the canal, a unique stone was found in the local quarries.   Ultimately became known as Medina Sandstone.  Great building material.  In the mid 1800's it was used extensively in NY but also exported.  Numerous buildings in town are made from it which came in assorted shades of red, brown, and grays. It can be found in things as diverse as the foundation of the Brooklyn Bridge and Buckingham Palace.

Many of the Main St. buildings were built using Medina sandstone

The Bent Opera House - now a boutique hotel - used a light gray sandstone

St. Mary's RC Church and rectory made from red Medina sandstone.

No breweries in town, but a couple pubs and a good selection of restaurants. Even a couple of high-end farm to table places. Small farmers market here on Saturday but since we're trying to use up our on board supplies, we deferred buying anything.  Overall, a good town to visit and worth spending the extra day here.

Big mural on building celebrating the early use of canal

One of the newer murals celebrating an adventurous hiker, bird watcher, photographer, painter?

Sept 5, 2024 Port to Port on the canal. Fairport to Brockport

 Thursday, Sept 5, 2024  Fairport to Brockport  32 miles and 5.5 hours

Still enjoying the nice weather.  Sunny warm and light breezes.   Today's trip takes us around Rochester.  Parts of this area were supposedly the hardest to get done as it was solid rock. Lots of digging and blasting. The original canal route went right through the center of Rochester but todays route is a loop around the south side.

Canal cut into the solid rock bed around Rochester

Interesting series of old bridges in Rochester

Had to traverse 2 larger locks today taking us up 25' each.  First lock had rough walls and slimy ropes to hold onto as we lifted.   Second one had been refurbished with smooth walls and mounted wire ropes.  Much nicer conditions but both are notorious for the fountains of water they spew out from the forward gates.  We just made sure to stay well back which was easy being the only boat locking through. .  Other obstacle were 3 more lift bridges. These are not as elegant as the one in Fairport but a more standardized design we'll see going forward.  Most have been in use for some 110 years which says alot about their simplicity and durability.

The water fountain at the head of lock 31

Lift bridge in "down" position

And in full "Up" position with full 16'  air clearance.

 The second half of our trip today has us entering more of the "old canal".  No longer river based but almost all man made, narrower and uniform depth.   Posted speed limit is 10mph which is our normal speed but we put up too large a wake to be responsible boaters.  We back down to 7.5-8.5mph as a compromise between making time and making waves. Plenty of slowing down to idle for docks, fishermen, bridges, kayakers, etc. From here all the way to Buffalo runs the old mule tow path right beside the canal.  It has been converted into a trailway used by bikers, hikers, walkers, etc.   Getting plenty of use.  Surprising number of long distance bikers carrying all sorts of gear.  Made it to Brockport.  Just one other boat here for the night.  Small tug headed east.  Brockport downtown consists of one main business street.  Some nice older buildings with a handful of shops, pubs, and restaurants.   A bit disappointed with the low level of activity here after Fairport.  But their wall was in good shape, had power and the bathroom facilities for boaters were decent.

The old tow path on right is now a trailway. 
 Eventually they hope to have the trailway follow the entire NY State canal system

An architecturally interesting and restored storefront on Main Street 

Restaurants in town weren't doing anything for us so decided to at least get drinks at the Barber Tap Room.  Decent tap selection on their menu so asked barmaid if they do flights. "Yes, we can do flights.   No one ever asked me before but let me find the glasses."   Then 2 of my 4 selections got a "Sorry, we don't have that anymore".  The Rohrbach Scotch Ale wound up as my favorite. Then dinner on board.  We really need to do it more often anyway. Need to use up some of our supplies and get refrigerator cleaned out.

Journey for Sept 5, 2024

Sept 4, 2024 Old New York - Lyons to Fairport

 Wednesday Sept 4, 2024  Lyons, NY to Fairport, NY  27 miles and 5.5 hours

Another beautiful day to be out boating.  Sunny and mid 70's would be ideal on the flybridge.  Unfortunately for us we're down at the lower helm.  Putting the radar arch and bimini down has two drawbacks.  On a sunny day with no bimini shade it is just too brutally sunny.  Lots of reflection off the white fiberglass would cook us like a convection oven. There's not enough sunscreen in the world to overcome it.   Other drawback on a day like today is getting down to handle lines when going through five locks.  Much easier to just walk out the pilothouse side door and grab a line. 

Beautiful day for cruising. Guard gates are common on the canal.
They allow for blocking off sections of the canal in case of flood, breach, etc. 

Going through locks 27, 28a, 28b, 29 and 30 slow our travels down and we cover fewer miles than normal for the hours we travel.  They estimate 30 minutes per lock as a guide. Some are quicker if the gates are open and waiting for you (rare).  So basically half our day was spent locking.  We also had a delayed stop for a pumpout in Newark.  As we were passing by, the pumpout dock looked easily accessible. So decided why not use it.  Turned around, got tied up walked over to the machine and noticed instead of the normal start/stop buttons it had a keypad to turn it on.  No code in sight.   Walked up to the visitor center and sign on door says 'back at noon'.  Couple of phone numbers listed so start calling.   Finally contacted a very accommodating lady at the Chamber of Commerce.   "I'll be right down to enter the code once you're all hooked up".  She was down in a few minutes, and all went fine.   Seems they had to put this system in place after too many local youths were playing with and breaking the machine.  Worth the slight inconvenience to have machines that are functional. 

A fleet of these true European canal boats for charter are based out of the Fairport area. 
Quite a difference from the Le Boat canal boats on the Rideau. 

Entire Fairport waterfront on both sides of canal lined with boats 

Arrived a bit later than we normally like to dock and found no readily available spot open for our length. Good teamwork between the bridgetender and dockmaster got a few boats juggled and us a spot with power right in the center of town.    This is a pretty active little town located on the eastern outskirts of Rochester. Seems to be undergoing a good amount of revitalization and reuse of the older buildings. Three ice cream parlors, four breweries, a distillery and lots of restaurants.  The lift bridge here is unique and made the Guinness Book of Records.  It's on an angled bias and no two pieces of steel are the same size.  The bridgetender here is known far and wide for his humor and was quite a hoot. 

The Fairport lift bridge lit up at night

Journey for Sept. 4, 2024