Friday, September 13, 2024

September 8, 2024 End of the canal. Tonawanda NY

Sunday Sept. 8, 2024  Medina to Tonawanda  35 miles and 6 hours

Getting ready to leave Medina for the 8AM start of the lift bridge operators' day.  He had given us the phone number to call him before we left so he would be ready - just in case he was at the other bridge he operates.  Started talking to him on the phone when he said he was right outside the boat.  Doing his morning rounds at the harbor wall to find out everyone's intentions.  Two canal boats were also heading west at the same time, so we all got underway together.  They let me lead as we would be traveling at a faster pace once past the lift bridge.  Planning for a longish day but also hoping to get tied up in Tonawanda by midafternoon before the forecast rain started.  Scenery was more western NY farmland, corn fields and orchards.

Longer travel days and Martha finally gets her turn at the wheel

In between Medina and Tonawanda is Lockport.  It's a bigger town but has limited facilities for stopping.   This was a hub of activity during the canal days necessitated by a flight of 5 locks.  Because of the time to lock through it was designed with 2 sets of flights.  One for boats westbound and one for eastbound.  Over time the system was modernized, and the east bound locks were turned into a set of 2 large locks that could accommodate the traffic going both directions.   The other flight of 5 locks was left intact but unused and is now a historical site and tourist attraction.   We get delayed due to a tour boat who was topside.  He had just exited the upper lock and would be turning around and coming back down. As a "commercial vessel" he got priority.  An interesting design of the locks is a "pool" between the upper and lower locks. We were raised up to the midpoint, they were lowered down to midpoint, and then we swapped chambers and proceeded.  Topside we were at our highest elevation on the Erie canal at 580'.  

Looking at Lockport locks headed westbound.
New lifts on left, old power plant and Flight of 5 original locks on right

Passing the tour boat in Lockport. We came into the chamber to go up. 
Then he exited into his downbound chamber

Once past Lockport the scenery changed back to more rural river cruising.  Wider, meandering but also getting more and more inhabited with more frequent required slowdowns for docks and tied up boats.  From here there is direct access to Tonawanda, Lake Erie, Buffalo, etc. No more locks, just a few bridges. 


We got to Tonawanda and had no issues finding a spot on the south wall which is the quiet side.   There are town walls on both sides, but each side is a different town.  The north wall is in North Tonawanda. They both charge and both have their own dockmasters.   During the prime season this is a busy place with both walls filled. Plenty to do with several restaurants and bars lining the waterfront and more just a block or two away.  

The Riviera Theatre in Tonawanda.  They have an amazing schedule of shows. 
Many are tribute performances - ABBA, Rush, Elton John, ELO, Prince, etc

One attraction in town is the Carousel Museum.  The town was known for carousel manufacturing with the Allan Herschell company at the forefront.  Back into the mid 1800's they began manufacturing carousels with beautiful hand carved horses.  In their day they were actually adult thrill rides as they spun at much higher speeds than we see them going today. Over time they added other animals - zebras. giraffes, ostrich, lions, frogs, etc.  The original factory is now a museum with a 1916 carousel. The workshop with period machines shows the processes for making the rides and featured the artistry of hand carving the final products.  Also included are additional rides they manufactured over time. After WWII and the start of the baby boom, they began manufacturing rides for Kiddylands.  Basically, anyone could buy a series of rides to create a family friendly roadside attraction.  As a young kid I fondly remember outings to Rye Beach Amusement Park in NY and riding the kiddy coaster, kiddy train, kiddy cars, kiddy helicopter, and kiddy wet boats. 

Original factory is now a museum

The restored 1916 carousel. 

Museum used old photos to recreate the actual workstations for making the horses

They had an area outside with several restored Kiddyland rides. 
I still remember pulling back on the bar and making the helicopter "lift off"

My personal favorite Kiddyland ride and the thing that may have started
 this crazy lifelong boating fascination. A 1957 Kiddie Wet Boat Ride.

We planned on staying an extra day to make a day trip over to Niagra Falls.  Neither of us had ever been there and it seemed a waste not to since we're only 13 miles away.  Easy Uber ride over and back.  Rain was threatening off and on most of the day but held off during our visit. But winds were gusting and carried a lot of mist around to all the viewing areas. The rapids and falls were quite impressive. Just a shame both US and Canada sides have gone so commercial with big buildings ruining what should be the same incredible natural views and beauty experienced by the famed Hudson River School artists of the 1800's





The obligatory selfie pic!

We have been enjoying our share of wings at pubs along the way as we get closer to their birthplace in Buffalo.  Noticed that drumettes here seem to be larger and meatier than back home.  Also, only blue cheese dressing offered - never ranch.   Found out there was a local delicacy we needed to try here in Tonawanda.  Beef on Weck.   I had never heard of it in all my travels.  Basically, thin cut tender roast beef, dipped in au jus and piled high on a soft bun and served with horseradish.  The bun is what makes it special. It has a heavy coating on top of coarse salt and carraway seeds. Swiston's Beef and Keg has been serving them for over 50 years. Highly recommend giving it a try.  Also recommended is District 37.  A new restaurant in town with an extensive tap lineup.   Finally able to get a flight of dark beers which was perfect on this cool rainy evening.

Swiston's famous Beef on Weck.  Now THAT'S a sandwich!!

Met  a lady at the docks who's brother is doing the loop. 
Since we had mostly cloudy and rainy days during our stay,
Sue sent us this picture of the town docks with a nice sunset

Journey for Sept. 8, 2024


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