Thursday July 23, 2026 Through NYC and on to Port Washington
Monday July 20, 2026 Great Kills, NY to Port Washington, NY 38 miles and 3.5 hours
A rainy Saturday in Great Kills had us simply staying on the boat and chilling. Lots of rain, some gusty winds and a good lightning show. The multiple rain showers gave the boat a free wash taking away any salt buildup from our offshore passage. Good part was the front pushed away all that smoke that had been a nuisance for the last week, Sunday was a gorgeous day with blue sky, light winds and temps barely hitting 80. We took the launch service to shore and walked into town. Headed straight to Frank and Sal's Italian market. Martha grabbed the last package of NY Crumb Cake while I got on the line for the deli case. Not a very big store but there's always been a crowd whenever we've been here. Even at 1PM on a Sunday there's a line of locals speaking Italian back and forth to the counter helpers. Huge array of pre-made items. Meatballs, Chicken Parm, Eggplant roll-ups, and some sautéed Broccoli Rabe (rapini in Italian) made it into our basket. Grabbed a fresh loaf of Italian Bread and we were set. Stopped at Goodfellows for an award-winning pizza on the way back. Made with a typical NY style crust but topping was vodka sauce with mozzarella, smoked gouda and asiago cheeses and topped with sausage, onions, mushrooms, and peppers (red, yellow and green). Tasty enough and rather unique but still need to get some REAL NY pizza on this trip. Monday turned out another gorgeous day. Blue sky and light winds. Perfect for the trip past NYC. Waited until 10AM to drop the lines off the mooring so we could catch a favorable current. Critical today as we'll head through the notorious Hells Gate. When we arrived at Great Kills we could barely see the Verrazano Bridge with no sign of the NYC skyline due to the smoke. Today with fresh clean air it all lay ahead clearly visible. Good progress up to and under the Verrazzano Narrows Bridge.
 |
| Clear sky provides a good view of the Verrazano Bridge and NYC |
 |
| Civil war era Fort Richmond at base of the bridge |
Then jump in front of the 150' yacht Usher to hug the shoreline around Brooklyn. Pass Governors Island and start up the East River. We had to use the less scenic eastern side around Roosevelt Island when headed south after our Down East Loop last year since the UN General Assembly was in session which requires closing off the western branch. No UN today so get to use the main branch which takes us directly past the UN and along the back side of Manhattan. Narrow water and with a rising tide the current is giving us a generous 2-3 mph push. Our AIS is staying busy warning us about the high-speed ferries shooting all around.
 |
| M/V Usher continued up the Hudson |
 |
| Lady Liberty off our port side as we turn to starboard and head up the East River |
 |
| Passing Governors Island with Lower Manhattan in background |
 |
| Brooklyn Bridge - One World Trade Center in background |
 |
| Funky architecture, high speed ferries, and Empire State Building |
 |
| United Nations Building |
 |
| Roosevelt Island Lighthouse and start of Hells Gate |
 |
| Heading for the Triborough Bridge and Hells Gate Bridge |
We plod along going from one bridge to the next. Brooklyn Bridge, Manhattan Bridge, Williamsburg Bridge, Queensboro Bridge, Triborough Bridge, Hells Gate Bridge, Bronx- White Stone Bridge. As we approach Hells Gate where the East River meets the waters of the Long Island Sound, we begin picking up speed. At one point over 5 mph extra. Plenty of turbulent water with swells and uprisings that push us around. Doesn't last long but it's understandable that low powered or slow boats do not want to go through here against the maximum current. By 1PM we're under the last bridge. With the Throgs Neck Bridge and my old NY neighborhood behind we pass out onto the open waters of the sound.
 |
Under the Throgs Neck Bridge - Bronx on the left, Queens on the right.
Merchant Marine Academy in background. |
 |
| Steppingstone Lighthouse built 1877 welcomes us to the Long Island Sound |
A short ride later and we're turning to starboard and into the protection of Manhasset Bay passing the shoreline mansions that occupy Great Neck. F. Scott Fitgerald lived there for several years during the early 1920's and that experience helped provide the setting for his famous The Great Gatsby novel. Arrive at the Port Washington mooring field and get ourselves secured and checked in with the harbormaster. Port Washington is a town that caters to transient boaters with very reasonably priced mooring and a free water taxi service. Just $35/night. We were concerned there might not be a mooring left for us as they are "first come - first served" and there is no limit on length of stay. But we had a choice of 5-6 available ones.
 |
| Great Neck still abounds with modern mansions |
With our early arrival and knowing we would probably be boat-bound Tuesday with rain we opted to head to town for an afternoon walkabout. Surprisingly, there's not much on Main Street directly on the waterfront but it then loops around and uphill to town. Not an overly scenic street. Shops and businesses. Seems like every possible ethnic restaurant. Pubs, Seafood, French, Italian, Mediterranean, Indian, Greek, Peruvian, Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Thai, Sushi, Bubble Teas, Ice Cream, etc. Somehow - no craft brewery!! We make it to the far side of town and grab a slice of plain cheese pizza at Carlo's. The true test of good NY style and it passes with flying colors. Tasty tomato sauce, right amount of cheese, thin crust that's easily foldable. Next stop is Finn MacCools for a local IPA draft and some wings. Back to the town dock and catch the water taxi back to the boat. Chill the rest of the day and watch the sun set over the harbor and out to the Sound.
 |
| Main Street thru Port Washington |
 |
Nice sunset view out the harbor
|
 |
| Port Washington free water taxi |
As expected, woke up to overcast sky and windy conditions on Tuesday. Rain forecasted but most of it seems to be staying just north of us. We take advantage of a leisurely day on the boat with some housekeeping chores and catching up on the blog. Dinner is finally a feast of Italian dishes from Frank and Sal's. We have enough leftovers for two more meals. Couple of heavy rain squalls finally develop. Not long lived but intense as each band passes through.
 |
| Storms a Brewing!! |
 |
| In the thick of a rain band. Flash Flood Warnings. |
 |
| Winds whipping making all the boats tug on the mooring lines |
Wednesday we decide to explore the area a bit more. Uber out to the Sands Point Preserve Conservancy. The original 300-acre property was purchased by Howard Gould in 1900. He was the son of a financier and railroad baron. He built Gould Castle - a 100,000 square foot summer home fashioned after Castle Kilkenny in Ireland. His wife didn't like it so he built Hempstead House overlooking the sound. A more modest home at only 50,000 sq ft that was more to her liking. The castle was then used as a carriage house, stable and servant's quarters. During the heyday of the Gold Coast, Hempstead House was supposedly THE place for extravagant parties. In 1917 the property was sold to the Guggenheims who held it until 1942 when it was given to the Navy. They utilized the castle for development and testing of electronic devices and simulation equipment for aviation and submarine training. By 1971 the property was considered government surplus and given to Nassau County. Unfortunately, the castle is not open to visitors and Hempstead House has very limited tours that were not running while we were there. Headed over to the town library which includes a small museum and art gallery. History here goes well back to the early 1600 Dutch settlers. Got to remember, before it was ever called New York it was New Amsterdam!
 |
| Gould Castle - standing big, bold and fortress like |
 |
| Central clock tower |
.jpg)
No comments:
Post a Comment