July 10-14, 2025 Playing Tourists in Quebec
Busy couple of days here in Quebec. Haven't been here since a high school French class trip and don't really remember where we stayed or what we did. It was during winter break so lots of cold and snow back then. Much more enjoyable walking around during the summer although we have been fighting occasional rain showers. Not a big problem - just head to another museum or a cafe. We have definitely been getting the exercise with the hilly terrain.
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Between walking around and climbing steps we got an awesome workout |
HISTORY LESSON: While the territory that includes Quebec was claimed for France by Jacques Cartier in 1534 it wasn't until 1608 that Samuel de Champlain founded Quebec City as the first permanent French settlement in North America. Its location was critical as the last navigable point in the St. Lawrence at the time. The narrowing of the river and the high bluff made it a natural base for defense. fur trading, and exploration. In 1763 following the Seven Years War (French and Indian War), New France was ceded to the British in The Treaty of Paris. The Quebec Act of 1774 granted the Province of Quebec many of the rights that have enabled it to retain its French culture, language and Catholic religion. In 1867 the Dominion of Canada was created when Great Britain united the 3 colonies of Canada (Ontario and Quebec provinces) with New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. Over time other provinces were added to the west and north making up modern day Canada. As a dominion it was able to have its own laws and parliament, had financial independence and a responsibility to defend itself. In 1931 it gained Commonwealth status and in 1981 it created its own constitution and became a completely independent country.
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View out over the St. Lawrence from The Citadel - great vantage point for defense |
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The Citadel is still an active military facility |
We've been staying busy walking the streets and alleys, enjoying the parks, sights and sounds of the town. Somehow, we often wind up at the end of our walks at Fresques des Quebecois. It's just a large mural painted on the side of a building which includes key historical figures. A small park with benches provides for a great people watching opportunity as they get creative posing in front of the mural. All this while a musician plays for tips by the street.
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Fresque has all the major historical figures of Quebec scattered in the mural. |
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Found this mural on our last day in a different part of town |
Just up the street is the Eglise Notre-Dame des Victories. This is considered the oldest stone church in Canada originating back to 1688. This is in the lower and oldest section of old Quebec. Not to be confused, there is also the Basilica Cathedral Notre-Dame de Quebec which is in up on the hill in the walled city proper. Take the Funiculaire (inclined railway) or walk up what seems like 1000 stairs to get there. Contains the tomb of St. Francois de Laval. A Jesuit priest who came to Quebec in 1659, became its bishop and started a Seminary school which continues today as Universite Laval. Probably the most fascinating chapel and museum we visited was Pole Culturel Du Monastere Des Ursulines. An order of nuns that came over in 1639 with a mission to educate and convert the girls of the First Nation. Supported by wealthy aristocrats until the French Revolution. By the mid 1700's they no longer had First Nations people in Quebec, so they changed to educating European settler's daughters and also began work that earned them money. Most notably they became amazing at gilding items for other churches and did intricate embroidering. Their founder Saint Marie de L'incarnation is entombed at their chapel. The Ursaline nuns still operate several successful schools that now cater to both boys and girls.
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Notre-Dame de Victoires on the Place Royal square |
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Alter at Notre-Dame des Victoires |
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Basillica De Notre-Dame with statue of St. Laval |
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Impressive interior of Basillica Notre-Dame |
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Gilded 3D alter at the Basillica |
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The Ursuline nuns chapel was noticeably more subdued. |
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Walking down Umbrella Alley on the way to the Funiculaire
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The Funiculaire - the inclined railway takes you to the Promenade level. Still plenty more stairs to go. |
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View looking down riding the Funiculaire |
Other places we visited were the Naval museum - focused on the hardships of families left behind during WWII. Also had a restored woody Chris Craft that was gifted to the navy by a local veteran at the start of WWII. Was used by Churchill and Roosevelt at their summit in Quebec finalizing plans for D-day. Spent way too long at the Museum de Civilization. Display of first Nations artifacts, some natural history stuffed animals and a traveling Titanic display. Found the 3D modeling of the current Titanic remains pretty fascinating. Got taken out for my birthday dinner to Lapin Saute. A nice French restaurant that specializes in rabbit. We tried a sampler appetizer plate that included some rabbit, duck two different ways, salmon and local cheeses. Both the rabbit and duck simply reminded me of dark meat turkey. Still, it was fun to experiment and try something new. Could have spent a few more days here. Missed a full tour of the Citadel, Parliament, Plains of Abraham, the art museum and the hop on/hop off bus tour just to name a few. Gives us a reason to come back at a later date!
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Old Chris Craft and sailor memorial at the Naval Museum |
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Model of front end of the Titanic as it exists today on sea bed |
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Rear of Titanic had much more damage after splitting in half |
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Yup. Sign at restaurant was sure giveaway to their specialty |
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Quebecoise love their Fleur-De-Lis flags - still declaring independence from Canada |
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Ready to bomb the city |
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Street performers on the squares. Music Festival had been going on during our visit. |
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View from on top of the old city |
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Crazy toboggan run has been in use on the Promenade since 1884 |
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Active street scenes around every corner
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Nighttime view of the city from our dock on our final day |
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