June 27-28, 2024 Kingston and Albany

Thursday June 27, 2024   Haverstraw Cove to Kingston, NY - 6.9 hours and 56 miles

Late morning start trying to work the current best as we can.  Timing is "off" this week for us.  Leaving at 10AM had us fighting the current half the day and running with it the other half.  Any earlier and we would have simply been fighting the current for more of the day.    Pleasant day out on the water.  Plenty of sunshine and the 90 degree weather finally broke.   A bit of wind picked up in the afternoon, but for the most part very welcome smooth sailing.   Scenic travel...but a lot of the same.  Cliffs, trees occasional mansion along the river.   Watching the express trains running alongside the river headed to NYC. 

Nice day to be out on the water

Commuter train track runs right alongside the Hudson

Culinary Institute of America

Pass Pollepel Island and the ruins of the old "Bannerman Castle" - a munitions storage facility after the Spanish American War. An explosion in 1920 destroyed portions of it.  Abandoned in the 1930's, a suspicious arson fire in 1967 that burned for 3 days did most of the current major damage.  The island is now part of the NY park system accessible only by boat.

Ruins of Bannerman Castle

Made it to Kingston late afternoon.   Our preferred docking options were unavailable - free overnight dockage at a waterfront restaurant was discontinued this year, dockage at the Maritime Museum was already full.  Only spot available was at the Kingston Municipal Marina. At $4/ft it was the most expensive docking we've done and quite honestly not worth it.  Small town with a long maritime history as it was both a tourist destination for New Yorkers during the steamboat era plus a commercial hub sending coal, building supplies and fresh foods downriver to the city. 

Esopus Meadows Lighthouse - protecting boaters from the
grassy shallows in the background extending far out into the river

Rondout Lighthouse marking the channel into Kingston

Journey for June 27, 2024

Friday June 28, 2024   Kingston to Albany - 6.7 hours and 55 miles

Mid-morning start at 8:45. We'll be fighting outgoing current all day, but will at least arrive in Albany at slack tide for easier docking.   Very cool morning with temps in the upper 50's.  Cool clear sunny day with a NE breeze that added a wind chill as we ran from the flybridge.   Probably should have used the pilothouse - certainly would have been more comfortable today but kept expecting it to get warmer. 

We saw several of these abandoned chimneys along the riverbank.
Researched and discovered they were old ice house factories.

We seem to be on a mission to get to Albany and start into new territory.  When on the loop todays trip took three days with stops to visit Catskill for a night and Shady Harbor Marina for a night. I guess some of the difference is in boat speed but some was also an interest in stopping to play tourist at small towns.   I'm sure we'll get back into that mode as we move forward. 

More lighthouses along the way.  Saugerties Lighthouse

Hudson-Athens Lighthouse

Heading into Albany

Topped off fuel upon arrival at Albany Yacht Club.  Last fill up was Baltimore.  That run on plane up the NJ coast cost us as we took on 400 gallons. Getting ready for a few rainy days. Toured Crailo which is an historic house built by the Rensselaer family and got a history lesson on the original Dutch settlers to the area. Interesting feature on this brick house built partially as a fortress on the river is the gun ports built into the exterior walls. This area started back in the 1600's as part of the Dutch West India Company as a trading post.  Beaver pelts being the primary commodity.

Journey for June 28, 2024

June 25-26, 2024 New York City and Haverstraw Cove.

 June 25, 2024  Great Kills to New York City  2.8 hours and 23 miles

After that crazy storm front with 50 mph winds passed thru on Saturday (taking our gold looper burgee with it) we were able to move from our mooring ball to the Great Kills Yacht Club dock for Sunday and Monday with more heavy winds expected.  And they did show up.  Gusts both days upwards of 40+ mph. Still 90-degree heat so power for A/C was welcome as well as another visit to Frank and Sal's for a variety of pre-made Italian dinner treats.  Eggplant parmesan, meatballs, chicken parm, chicken vodka, olive assortment, antipasti salad and more crumb cake for breakfast.  All so yummy! 

Getting ready to depart the T-head at Great Kills

The Tear Drop 911 Memorial on the New Jersey side was a gift from Russia

But it was time to get moving again today.  Not a long trip.  Just a few hours.  Traffic not bad and AIS kept us abreast of boats coming and going.   Met up with two other loopers to do the obligatory Statue of Liberty photo shuffle and exchange. "You go between me and the statue and I'll take your pics, then I'll go in front of you so you can take our picture."  Repeat multiple times and then everyone exchanges pictures and hopefully one or two turned out good.  Crazy traffic there with all the tourist tour boats.  We were done with that by 1:00.

Lady Liberty

Photo shoot day at the Statue of Liberty

I had read that the anchorage beside Ellis Island offered a bit more protection than the one behind the statue, plus it afforded a much better unobstructed view of the NYC skyline. So we grabbed a spot, dropped the hook, and proceeded to bounce, rock, and roll nonstop until our departure the next morning.  The wind and current laid us parallel to the river so every tug, barge, ship, water taxi, tour boat and ferry sent a wave that hit us squarely on our beam.  Worst possible outcome generating the most severe rocking.  Three points of contact were necessitated at all times when moving about the boat. River traffic finally settled down a bit after rush hour and by 7:00pm we were entertained with the Tuesday night J/24 sailing regatta held by the Manhattan Yacht Club. 

J/24 sailboats cross the starting line at the committee boat

Spinnakers out as they head downwind

As the sun set, we finally got the show we had been awaiting.  Last of the day's sunshine reflecting off the skyscrapers and then as darkness enveloped the city the lights came on illuminating each building.

Sunset colors reflecting on the skyline

The skyline as darkness falls

Journey for June 25, 2024

June 26, 2024  New York City to Haverstraw Cove.   4.9 hours and 40 miles

Sunrise behind the city after a bumpy evening at anchor

Anchor up at 8:30. Not ideal timing yet for riding the incoming current up the Hudson River but the rocking and rolling was getting worse and "enough was enough".   We meandered slowly up the Hudson dodging all the high-speed ferries zipping back and forth across the river and finally caught slack current. Then went slower than usual all day to stay in it. Worked out fine.  Under the George Washington Bridge and the new Gov. Mario Cuomo Bridge (aka old Tappan Zee Bridge) and into the shear rock walls of The Palisades.  Always amazing that within just a few miles of leaving the city the scenery can turn so natural. 

Under the new Tappan Zee / Mario Cuomo Bridge 

The little red lighthouse at the base of George Washington Bridge

Palisades of the Hudson River just north of the city

 Decided to try an anchorage I spotted on the navigation charts called Haverstraw Cove.   Most anchoring spots are just along the river edge so this looked interesting as it's a true cove.  Charts show a bit of a shallow at the entrance but good depths inside and nice wind protection from all directions.  Got in without issue and have the whole place to ourselves.  Perfectly peaceful and wake free. Almost like we're on terra firma again! Last of the 90+ degree days and so very ready for some of those cooler northern days.   Very light dinner last night due to the conditions so we'll enjoy the remaining italian feast from Frank and Sal's tonight.

Haverstraw Cove - a peaceful wake-free anchorage

Journey for June 26, 2024

June 19-21, 2024 We make a run for it!! Salem River Anchorage, Cape May, NJ and Great Kills, NY

Wednesday June 19, 2024  Baltimore to Salem River.  8.8 hours 79 miles

Off the dock a bit before 8.  First stop is the Baltimore Yacht Club to top off the fuel tanks.  Price is good at $3.50/gal. and thought it best to have full tanks as we do the Delaware Bay and up the NJ coast.  Down the Patapsco under sunny skies.  Gonna be a hot one in the 90's.  Light winds.  Under the remnants of the Key Bridge again.  The channel has now been cleared of the bridge structure debris and is fully open to marine traffic.  We still took the alternate small boat channel - just too weird feeling to use the main channel.    Next up is a charted cut through behind Hart-Miller Island at low tide to get to Middle River.  Depth finder gradually went to 0, then showed nadda.  But we were still coasting along and charts showed a supposed 7-9 feet. Pucker factor but it soon started reading positive numbers again - just a really nasty shoal developing. Around the bend to BYC and after a pumpout and 260 gallons of diesel we were back on our way. 

Osprey keeping a watchful eye to see if we
ground as passing through the cut

Final stretch of the upper Chesapeake Bay in familiar territory.  This area is our old stomping grounds from our initial foray into boating when we lived in PA. back in the mid 80's.  Out the river and around Poole Island then a straight shot north to the entrance of the C&D canal.  Getting small swells on the stern from the southerly wind against an outgoing tide.  Not a concern - just slows us down a bit.  Make it to the canal and initial plan is to see if there is room for us at Chesapeake City free dock.  Two other loopers already there so no room for us.  It's only 2:30 so we decide to push on through the canal with a favorable current.  

Plenty of bridges over the C&D but all full height

Large ships can pass through the C&D but this was the largest we saw

Most loopers head north when leaving the canal and stay in Delaware City.  Great helpful dockmaster at the marina with lots of advice for traveling down the Delaware Bay and up the NJ coast.  But it's just a narrow fairway where they assist in spinning your boat.  We had some damage in the process with our 38' boat so not interested in trying it with this one.  We opted for an anchorage across the bay up Salem River.  Coming off the bay and up the river we see dredges aside the channel.  Always makes me nervous.  Shoaling at the entrance extends further than the charts so our depth finder gets another workout.  More shallow water as we pass the dredge but plenty of water after them where they have completed work.  We round a few bends and anchor at the designated place.  Good holding, depths, protection.  A bit of road noise but that eased up at night.  Overall, a good night's sleep after a longish first day back in the saddle. 

Journey for June 19, 2024

Thursday June 20, 2024  Salem River to Cape May  6.3 hours 62 miles

Not sure if it was the peacefulness of the anchorage or the exhaustion from a long day on the water but we both slept very soundly. Never even woke up for my customary 3 AM anchor alarm check.  Martha got some extra sleep as we had no plans for an early departure.  Anchor up at 9 AM provided the best time for a favorable push down the Delaware Bay. First few hours we had a light breeze and flat calm but against a slight incoming current.  Then it turned and we got a great 1+ kt favorable current the balance of the day.

The cooling tower and steam from this power plant is visible for miles

John's Shoal light is a bit spooky but critical for defining the main channel

Drawback was we also got increasing winds against the current so choppy conditions.  Nothing terrible, just choppy. Stayed out of the main channel, dodged a few crap pots and watched a parade of ships headed northbound to Philly.  

Interesting vessel.   The tug tucks into a cutout on the stern

Smaller container ship headed to Philly

Surprisingly, not a single southbound ship.  Only excitement for the day came as we were heading into the Cape May canal.  The ferry New Jersey was also heading in from Lewes, Delaware.  I was tracking her on AIS making a little better time than us then the GPS unit showed us on a collision course. Decided I didn't want to be behind her and deal with her docking at the terminal so punched it onto plane and stayed barely ahead of her. Uneventful thru the canal and into Cape May.   

Throttle up to beat the ferry "New Jersey" into Cape May channel

Dropped the hook at the anchorage just past the Coast Guard station with a number of other boats including three other loopers.  Not sure of their plans or ours for tomorrow.  Maybe to Atlantic City or maybe put her on plane and do a distance run all the way to Staten Island.  Offshore waves turn really bad starting Sunday, so we've got to take advantage of these less than ideal conditions or we're stuck for a week until the next weather window.

Sunset in Cape May, NJ

Journey for June 20, 2024

Friday June 21, 2024   Cape May, NJ to Great Kills, NY   10.3 hours 136 miles

Two options leaving Cape May.  The two-day option would have us hoping this current weather window remained open thru Saturday.  The one-day option meant a long run in one day, but with a forecast with a bit more certainty.  We opted for a 5:15 AM start and the one day option. 

Beautiful sunrise, light winds and gentle swells as we begin the day

Weather says 2' seas to start but growing to 3' as the S-SE winds picks up - especially along the upper portion of NJ in the afternoon.  Once out the inlet we push the throttles to 2200 rpm and cruise at 15mph. Fuel costs be damned.   We do this for 6 hours at which time we're staying ahead of the afternoon buildup.  We drop to 1700 rpm and 12 mph.  Still higher than our usual comfortable and economic 1400 rpm.   Not much to do on open water passages.   The swells on the stern quarter push the boat around a bit so the autopilot and stabilizers are getting a nice workout.  

Up on plane while conditions are favorable

Making good time as we pass Atlantic City after just 3 hours

Once around the protection of Sandy Hook the seas flatten allowing a comfortable slow cruise into Great Kills Harbor.  We hail Richmond County Yacht Club and receive our mooring ball assignment.  N3 on the far side of the bay behind the tree line.  Exhausted but satisfied with our decision we toast the day, grill up some dinner, watch Oppenheimer on Netflix and hit the bed for a sound night's sleep not even being bothered by the heat wave taking over the area.  Saturday we hail the launch provided by RCYC and head for Frank and Sal's Italian Market.  Lots of goodies but we opt for mixed Italian cookies for tonight and NY style crumb cake for tomorrow's breakfast.  Lured in by the sign at Goodfella's stating "Voted World's Best Pizza" we opt for a late lunch. Tasty wood fired pizza concoctions but "World's Best" may be an overstatement.  Although, the Roma tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella, Kalamara olives, mushroom, artichoke hearts and capers was pretty delicious.  Rather than heading straight back to the heat of the boat, we opted for a drink and the A/C of the clubhouse bar. We watched in awe as a severe squall line passed through hoping the boat was okay.  50 mph gusts, sideways torrential rain, thunder and lightning, whitecaps in the harbor.   Thankfully the mooring ball rigging all held tight in our absence.  Rather glad to not be onboard.  Only damage upon our eventual return was the missing Gold Looper burgee off our bow staff which the wind gods took as their own. Sunday we'll head over to Great Kills Yacht Club for a slip and power to enjoy some A/C.  Forecasted to hit 95 degrees.

Journey for June 21, 2024

June 18, 2024 Home, Charlotte and back to Baltimore

 June 18, 2024   Off the Boat Travels

Our one week stay in Baltimore turned into 2 weeks.  Well actually, the boat stayed two weeks - we were driving around most of it.   Got a rental car and headed home for some follow-up Dr appointments.  All good with that.   We were having an issue with our Vacuflush system for the master head before getting to Baltimore.   Slow motor on the pump but worse was the pump bellows started to leak.  Not good.  Ordered new rebuild kit and paid for expedited 2-3 day US Postal Service delivery.  Shipped from Ft. Lauderdale to Savannah with stated Monday delivery. No problem as we planned to leave the condo on Tuesday AM.  But after spending 2 days at the Jacksonville distribution center it got shipped to Birmingham!!  Their distribution center sat on it another 2 days before shipping it back to the Jacksonville facility who finally sent it to Richmond Hill for delivery on Thursday!!  UGH!!! 

Under the white cover is the Vacuflush motor and pump. 
Upside down with head in the bilge is the position for working on it. 

 In the meantime, we had a family issue when my 90-year-old mom tripped and fell. Hit hard flat onto her face. Two broken teeth, knot on her head, cut lip, black eye. I'll spare you those pictures.   Decided it was prudent to make a detour through Charlotte for a visit.  All this resulted in calls to extend our car rental and boat slip stay for an extra week.   Finally made it back to Baltimore Saturday. Spent Sunday successfully replacing the Vacuflush parts and watching an airshow over the inner harbor as part of Fleet Week.   Monday was a reprovision day and Tuesday was return car, check out a brewery and do laundry day as we prepped for departure.  

Flyover as part of Fleet Week

Ministry of Beer in old St. Michaels Church

Just another sunset over Baltimore

June 6, 2024 Baltimore

 Thursday  June 6, 2024  Magothy River to Baltimore   3.4 hours  27 miles

Stormy weather in the area overnight.  Tornadoes touched down in surrounding areas west of us and they even had some wind damage at the marina in Baltimore.   We seemed to be spared from the worst of it at our anchorage except for some torrential rainfall.  OK by me as the boat needed a good rinsing. The night before we were inundated with midges - sometimes called blind mosquitoes.   They are mostly nothing more than a nuisance since they don't bite.  But they cover the boat with staining green dots of midge poop.    Anchor up early as more wind and possible rain forecast starting around noon.  We have a 3+ hour cruise out the Magothy and up the Patapsco to Baltimore.  Mostly uneventful.  We rode alongside a tow for a bit headed out the Magothy.

This tow was parked in our anchorage overnight then headed out just ahead of us

 Got within first sight of the Francis Scott Key bridge and it was quite eerie seeing the missing portion of the span.   They have made amazing progress as all the metal structure has now been removed.  They say by Monday the main channel will be open for all large ships.   We took an alternative small vessel channel they have marked going under the eastside concrete ramp.  Again, eerie looking as these sections just end midair.  Got hit with a spritz of rain as we were just getting to the bridge - almost like the sky was shedding a tear for the loss of life and commerce. 

Remaining western span 

Remaining eastern span

Under the eastern span looking towards the western span

Francis Scott Key Bridge piling remnants

Beyond the bridge they have the now removed Dali container ship tied to a terminal.   The damage on the bow was very obvious.  Other than the forward containers removed so that the ship could be dislodged from the bridge it didn't appear as though any others had been removed yet.

Container ship Dali that took out the Key Bridge

Before heading into Anchorage Marina, we decided to take a spin around the inner harbor.  Back in the 80's when we lived in PA. and kept our first boats just north of Baltimore on Middle River, we would occasionally bring guests there by boat.  Honestly, we barely recognized the area.   So much new residential property and marinas along the waterfront.  If we hadn't seen the USS Constellation at her berth, and the landmark Baltimore Aquarium and Domino's Sugar factory we would not have known we were in the same place.  Amazing progress there and along the Fells Point and Canton waterfronts.  

Cargo ship unloading at Domino's sugar plant

The smell of brown sugar was in the air as we passed by

USS Constellation sits ahead of the visiting tall ship with the white hull

The Seven Foot Knoll screw pile lighthouse
relocated to Baltimore to serve as a museum 

The Lightship Chesapeake behind the WW11 sub USS Torsk

The Baltimore Aquarium

Neither of us remembered this landmark tower or all the waterfront condos

Got all secured in our friends Russ and Jax's boat slip at Anchorage Marina with the assistance of their friendly dockmaster Wayne.  Awesome 60' slip with full length finger piers along both sides.  They are currently traveling and have made it up to Long Island Sound with their boat InQuest.   We have the slip for a week. Rental car reserved and we'll head home for some follow-up doctor appointments knowing the boat is safe and secure.   Then return and hope a good weather window opens for our cruise down the Delaware Bay and around NJ offshore. 

As You Wish secure in Slip B12

Found this place in Fells Point. Established in 1918 when the area
 had a huge Polish immigrant population.  
Still serving cold beer and dancing to the Polka on Fri and Sat nights.
Better than my initial thought - The place we got sent for our final days.

Journey for June 6, 2024