May 27, 2024 Urbanna - Memorial Day Weekend and a Family Visit

 Sat May 25, 2024  Carter Creek to Urbanna Boatyard and Marina  1.3 hours and 10 miles

We've been to Urbanna several times and always like it.  Very small but super accommodating to boaters and the town has a lot of history going back to the earliest days of Virginia.  This was our first time staying at the Urbanna Boatyard and Marina (referred to as URRBY marina).  Historically we've stayed at the town dock, but the allure of full-length floating finger piers would make things easier for our visiting guests with children to get on and off the boat. A great decision as the owners Andy and Amy are super hospitable and we wound up with a slip right behind the office with brand new clean bathrooms. 

With beautiful weather starting the Memorial Day weekend we expected to see a bit more boating traffic for our short cruise across the Rappahannock river. Apparently, they were all waiting in the harbor as we were greeted by a parade of sailboats heading out just as we began entering the narrow entrance.  No issues and after a quick confirmation with the marina we were soon stern tied into our slip. 

Over to our friends Jamie and Trish on No Rush who are also here for the weekend.  Met their friends who were visiting and enjoyed hearing stories while partaking of adult beverages.    Sunday we were up early for a trip to the local grocery store.  As we were leaving and starting to repack grocery bags into our folding cart, we were greeted by a young lady named Hannah who asked if we were from the marina.  She insisted on us loading our bags and cart into her SUV and delivered us right to our boat.   As I said - the town is very accommodating and friendly to boaters.

Sunday our guests arrived.  My nephew Dan, his wife Athene and their 2 children - 4-1/2 year old Xavier and 1 year old Eliza.   After a walk to town for a quick bite we headed to the town museum to view the John Mitchell map. A large scale historically significant map dating back to the 1700's. It was of particular interest to Dan with his geography degree and mapping background.  Back at the boat the kayaks were waiting in the water, so Dan and Xavier headed out to explore the sandy beach by the harbor entrance.  A very popular spot lined one end to the other with pleasure boaters.   Finished the day with an outdoor pizza party at the picnic table followed by Shrek for movie night on the boat. 

The Mitchell Map

Back from a trip to the sandy and wet beach

Dan and Xavier at the upper helm

While Athene and Eliza watch

Bands of rain were forecast to start moving in on Monday so after Xavier helped prepare melon and waffles for breakfast it was time for them to hit the road.  Always wonderful seeing them all and catching up on their hectic lives.  Rain on and off the rest of the day so some TV, some chores, some relaxing, some blogging.  Then dinner out with Jamie and Trish as we compared plans for a trip over to Onancock on Tues AM.

Journey for May 25, 2024

May 22 -24, 2024 Mobjack Bay and Carters Creek Anchorage

May 21 and 22, 2024  Anchored in Mobjack Bay   1 hour and 9 miles

Pleasant enough day at anchor.  Nothing special going on - just chilling.  Anchorage is a bit more exposed and 5-10 mph breeze is keeping a light chop on the water so we're getting a little wave slap on the hull and some swinging of the boat.   We didn't push in closer to the protection of the tree line due to a line of crab traps. Wind settled overnight, but then some stronger gusts showed up just before daybreak and we had the anchor alarm waking us up.  Apparently, we had dragged about 100' with those wind gusts.  Not in any danger as it's an open cove and we were by ourselves.   Operator error as I had been too stingy when deploying the chain.  

Watching the full moon rise as the sun sets

Delightful end of the day

Decided to explore a different anchorage the next day.   Again, a bit open with just a few houses on the shoreline.  Perfectly adequate, simply nothing special.  We're exploring new anchorages and burning up days while waiting to hit Urbanna for the Memorial Day weekend.    

Quick Journey May 22, 2024 to a different
anchorage still within Mobjack Bay 

May 23 and 24 Anchored in Carters Creek   5.3  hours and  49 miles

Moved out of Mobjack Bay, up the bay and into the Rappahannock River.   Beautiful day on the water.  Almost flat calm and perfect for driving topside.  We had anchored up Carters Creek in the past during a fall trip and really enjoyed it.  Very protected creeks with lots of houses along the shorelines.  

Almost to Carters Creek - it's just past the bridge

Unlike our last visit, this time every creek is filled with crabpots.  The crabs don't stand a chance here - must be 2 traps for every crab on the bottom.   No suitable spot to anchor in our old spot without swinging into some floats so we explored a few more branches.   Finally settled on Calf Pasture Cove as our best option.  Two other boats anchored already amidst the crabpots but there was enough gap to provide clearance during the tidal swing.   Stayed 2 nights. 

Beautiful anchorage once we got settled

Shoreside house lights at dusk

These 2 geese amused us flying in and out several times a day honking all the way.
One would oddly fly up and sit atop an osprey nesting platform.

The area is close to the town of Irvington and the The Tides Resort, so it was odd we had the worst internet connectivity we've experienced in quite some time.   No service at all on our T-Mobile and a slow and intermittent connection with Verizon.  Crazy dense fog one morning. Couldn't even see the shoreline a few hundred feet away but somehow the watermen were out locating their floats and emptying their traps.

Dense morning fog off the stern all gone by 8am

Journey for May 23, 2024

May 19-21, 2024 Chesapeake, VA (Great Bridge bridge and Lock) and Mobjack Bay (North River Anchorage)

 Sun.  May 19, 2024  Elizabeth City to Chesapeake, VA   9.1 hours - 76 miles

Despite forecasted rain that would have been a washout for the NC Potato Festival, it simply remained cool and cloudy with an occasional mist.  Nothing to dampen the town's spirits or festival attendance.  Richard and Terrie on Avalon were among the many looper boats here, so we got together for flights and dinner on Saturday.  They will be taking the Dismal Swamp route.   We are taking the Albemarle - Chesapeake route.  Just don't want to expose our running gear to logs at this stage in our travels and without the protective full keel we had on the old As You Wish it just seems prudent.   It means we'll be exposed to more weather - wind and waves.  15-20 knot winds and 2' seas are showing for today, but at least just cloudy and not rainy.  

Friends Richard and Terrie from Avalon take a selfie with
As You Wish in the background leaving Elizabeth City

We head out a little after 7 ready for a long day.  Down the Pasquotank is a non-issue.  We're riding small waves from the NE on the port stern.  Then we turn onto the Albemarle and rolling 2' waves are hitting us on the beam.  Time for the stabilizers which tame things down.  Eventually a turn up the North River.   Same 2' waves but now on the starboard bow. Pretty consistent 3-4 second period, so not terrible. The issue is the constant spray after each wave from the 20 knot winds.  The spray covers the windshield in heavy sheets requiring the wiper to clear.  But the wave period isn't synchronized to allow keeping the wipers on. It's a continuous activity to reach for the wiper switch.  Turn them on, turn them off, turn them on, turn them off.  We finally get a little break through the cut at Coinjock but then are out again into Currituck Sound for more waves and water. Finally enter the Albemarle - Chesapeake canal and protection.  We get our timing right to arrive for the half hour only openings at North Landing Swing Bridge and again at the Centerville Swing Bridge.   Finally pull up to Atlantic Yacht Basin for fuel and a pump out and are greeted by friends Jamie and Trish on No Rush.    We're convinced to stay at AYB. They have a car, so we make plans for a flight at Big Ugly Brewery (made it just in time for Sun. 6pm last call - phew!!) followed by dinner at Lockside Restaurant.  

What to do after beers and dinner?   
How about ice cream from Uncle Tom Carvel?

In the morning, we move over to the free dock across the waterway.   It's finally a pleasant sunny day and we decide to just relax, enjoy the day, do some walking, plot the next few days on the Chesapeake, watch a parade of big boats going thru the bridge and lock every hour, and arrange for dinner again with Jamie and Trish.  Unfortunately, Jamie is fighting a stuck kidney stone and trying to get it handled medically while in Norfolk.  Not quite so easy or convenient when a transient boater.   

This monster came through Monday morning -
dwarfing everything else around

Nature walk - lots of baby geese 

Nature walk - waiting for an errant goosling?

Nature walk - turtle minding a log and enjoying the sun

Trying to figure out the rules for the game of Rummikub.

Journey for May 19, 2024

Tues. May 21, 2024   Chesapeake to Mobjack Bay- North River Anchorage.  7 hours - 59 miles

Beautiful forecast for today.  Sunny by mid-day, lower 70's, light SE winds and nary a ripple expected on the Chesapeake Bay.    We pull away from the free dock and enter the queue with five other boats for the 8AM bridge and lock opening.  A powerboat, two sailboats, us and then two more powerboats.  I can only assume it was the first ever lockage for the two sailboats.  Never seen any boats move so painfully slow and cautious.   Even the lockmaster helping to grab lines was trying to usher them along.   All for an uneventful 2' ride up!!  Out the lock and around the sailboats and we were on our way. 

Preparing to leave Great Bridge lock

Well - until we hit the Norfolk Southern #7 bridge which is supposed to be up except when in use.  It is down with a sailboater waiting.  It's the same small sailboat with an older couple we have passed several times this trip and who we saw pass thru the 7am lock opening.  No telling how long they have been waiting.  We grow concerned as we've been stuck at these RR bridges for extended periods before.  Today goes better.  In just a few minutes, an Amtrack train rolls by and we get the announcement over the radio that the bridge will be going up.   Lucky again at the next two RR bridges are in the up position. 

Norfolk Southern Bridge 7 opening for passage

The second Norfolk Southern RR bridge 

Then it's just a slow run through Norfolk and all the Navy yards and sub-contractors at work building, refitting, etc.  Many of my tax dollars on display as we pass 5 aircraft carriers docked and multiple other ships.   Lots of activity in the harbor - tugs, dredges, cargo ships, cruise lines, patrol boats, ferries, etc.

Navy boats from the biggest to smallest on full display in Norfolk

Once things open onto the bay we're greeted with the promised sunshine and flat calm seas.   Such a pleasant day of cruising after our ocean voyage, Alligator River and Pamlico Sound journey and then the Albemarle and Currituck Sound days.  We head into Mobjack Bay to anchor.  We've stayed here before, but this bay has several tributaries and we're going up the North River branch to explore a new option aside Back Creek.  Beautiful estate homes nestled along the shoreline.  We drop anchor in a picturesque little cove that provides protection from the slight SE breeze and settle in for the evening. A slight breeze, sunshine, comfortable temperatures and no bugs.  Perfect. 

Flat calm blue waters on a sunny blue-sky day.  Perfect!!

Journey for May 21, 2024

May 16-17, 2024 Pungo Creek (Belhaven) and Elizabeth City

Thurs.  May 16, 2024 - Beaufort to Pungo Creek Anchorage (Belhaven)   7.8 Hours    67 Miles

We went ahead and spent a third night at Homer Smith Marina.  Forecast called for rain but all we got were a few isolated showers.   Engines were just about due for oil changes, so decided it was as good a time as any.  Takes a few hours and nine gallons of oil altogether.  (Yes, that's gallons, not quarts) Removing and replacing the two oil filters on the outboard side of the starboard engine is the most difficult as you need to be a bit of a contortionist to get to them.  All said and done still better than paying someone for routine service and a good use of that extra day.  Martha had time to get a load of wash done and then work on a sewing repair to the canvas cover for the front sun pad. 

Partly sunny day with highs expected in low 70's.  Our morning start was a bit cool with NW breezes keeping us bundled up while enjoying the fresh air running from the flybridge. Once out of Beaufort and past the houses along Adams Creek things returned to more inland woods and nature scenery.   Glad to be past all that shoreside development. 

Adams Creek  - out of civilization and back to nature

Big flotilla of looper boats headed out early planning for Belhaven.   We got a little later start, but with our extra running speed caught up to them as they were entering Belhaven.   We opted to anchor out since we've been to Belhaven several times.  Took a left turn into Pungo Creek.  Good protection from the NW wind but had to anchor further away from land than we hoped due to numerous crab pots.  

Ultimately it was a good spot, wind died down, fired up the grill and cooked a couple steaks for dinner.  Early to bed for a sunrise start in the morning.  

The fleet at RE Mayo Seafood dock 

Pirate ship at RE Mayo - customized old Chris Craft Constellation

Sailboats joined us at anchor in Pungo Creek

 

Journey for May 16, 2024

May 17, 2024   Belhaven to Elizabeth City     9.3 Hours   87 Miles

Only downside to our Pungo Creek anchorage was the nasty sticky mud bottom and jellyfish tentacles that attached to the anchor chain as we hauled it up.   Lots of water from the washdown system and slow retrieval of chain got it all clean.   Long day ahead so out the creek at 6AM.  Unfortunately, the Alligator-Pungo canal heads due east straight into the rising sun.  Brutal!  

Dawn breaks to start a long day

Giving way to blinding glare as we head to the Alligator-Pungo canal

Several sailboats motoring north got an earlier start than us but allowed uneventful slow passes.  Once out in the Alligator River we are in open water for an extended time and head to the comfort of the pilothouse.   Up the length of the Alligator River, through the swing bridge, then across the Albemarle Sound and eventually up the Pasquotank River to Elizabeth City.  Seas not bad despite the north breeze.  Mostly a 1' chop on the bow with some 2' waves when first entering the Albemarle Sound. Approaching Elizabeth City we see the bright colors and lights of carnival rides, game booths and food tents at the waterfront park where we usually tie up. 

Food vendors and game hawkers on the street

Rides aplenty for all ages at the park

Coast Guard rescue mission demonstration on Sat.

Too much activity for us there so we go through the bridge where one spot is remaining at the free dock at Mid Atlantic Christian University.  To access it we need to crab sideways.  Motoryacht in front and sailboat behind us.   Feels like we only have a few feet of extra space but manage to slide it in without issue. Docked and secured by 3:30. 

Crab walked our way in sideways between these boats.  Sure felt tighter than it looks.

More looper boats arrive later in the day and tie up at Jennette Bros dock.  Another batch arrive by noon on Sat. The NC Potato Festival in Elizabeth City starts tonight.  We'll stay here a couple nights as more rain and wind are expected. We need to decide on moving forward on the protected Dismal Swamp route but with potential log strikes or backtracking around to the Albemarle-Chesapeake Canal with potentially nasty seas.  Couple of good breweries in town worth visiting as we ponder this dilemma.  

 

Journey for May 17, 2024

May 12-13, 2024 Wrightsville Beach and Beaufort, NC

Sun. May 12, 2024   Osprey Marina to Wrightsville Beach  9.8 hours and 90 miles

Trying to capture the Northern Lights

Drama ahead.  It had been reported that construction at the Onslow Beach swing bridge would be shutting down the ICW for entire weekday stretches starting on Mon 5/13 and continuing until the end of June.  This section connects Wrightsville Beach to Swansboro and ultimately Beaufort.    Oddly, this was all being reported via the bridge tenders and construction company.   We never saw an official Coast Guard Local Notice to Mariners (LNM).  Right up through Sunday night we continued getting mixed reports and rumors.  The only alternative route is running offshore from Masonboro Inlet to Beaufort Inlet.  Complicating that plan, Monday was the only day with reasonable 1-2' sea conditions forecast before turning to 3-4-5' seas for the balance of the week.  We decided we needed to get moving.  If the bridge truly did get shut down, we needed that Monday for offshore.  All day Sunday we kept checking sources.  Still mixed and no official LNM.   In the meantime, we had gotten an early start leaving Osprey at 7:00 and enjoyed a pleasant few hours cruising before the Myrtle Beach boating crowd started waking up. 

Osprey and it's huge nest guarding
 the entrance to Osprey Marina

I long for the good ole days when the ICW from
Osprey to Myrtle Beach looked like this

Instead of this!

From 10:30 until well after we anchored it was a constant stream of small boaters out enjoying a lovely, sunny Mother's Day.  Can't blame them...but aggravating for us. This entire stretch has become one long section of developed land.  Homes, docks, boats, people.  At least no flies or no-see-ums to contend with.  But I much prefer the solitude and quiet beauty of the GA and SC lowcountry areas for cruising. 

Passing Lightkeepers Marina - our home for 6 months last year

Center consoles with twin and triple outboards - the boat of choice around here

Enjoying the day on the sandbar.

We dropped anchor after a long day right beside Masonboro Inlet.  Late afternoon but the sandy beach areas were still loaded with the last of the day boaters.  By dusk they and their wakes were gone and we had a peaceful night at anchor.  Evening reports sounded more confident the bridge closing would be delayed, but still no official LNM so we committed to leaving in the morning on an offshore route. 

Peaceful sunset at Wrightsville Beach

Journey for May 12, 2024

Mon. May 13, 2024  Wrightsville Beach to Beaufort, NC   9.5 hours and 81 miles

Up early.  Still no LNM for the bridge. Weather says 2' seas and 6 second periods between waves.  Very doable so we head out. A bit choppy outside the inlet but we figured it would settle down.  WRONG!    Our heading is a straight shot to Beaufort. 

Early morning heading out due east into sun

 

It takes us about 5 miles offshore and outside the restricted entry area for Camp Lejeune.   Seas are more like 3-4' with a short period.  Confused but mostly on the bow. We try running our normal 1400 rpm but it feels like we're pounding.   Try up on plane telling ourselves don't worry about fuel burn. But then the wind is blowing copious amounts of spray up we don't like. Finally settle into a 1200 rpm pace and 8.5 mph.  Reduces the pounding but will mean a bit longer day out here.  Martha feels a bit queasy but works through it.  Autopilot is working itself silly trying to hold course.  An aircraft carrier is running hovercraft landing exercises just off the restricted area at Camp Lejeune. Watched them come in and land through the back belly several times while the carrier shadowed us passing the zone.

Hovercraft entering rear landing bay on carrier

View from our lower helm 

We make it to Beaufort late afternoon and tie up at Homer Smith's Marina.  First time here.  Great marina.  Just a little further from town but still easily walkable.  Courtesy car, free laundry, new bathrooms.   All top notch.   We get a prime T head spot.  Exhausted after 2 long and grueling but very different days - we both crash by 8:30 for a long fitful night's sleep. We'll stay a few days to recoup.  Bad weather - rain, winds, possible hail over the next 2 days. The 39' Kady Krogen Avalon is docked behind us.   We met Rich and Terrie doing our Loop in 2019.  They were in our group of boats that ran offshore NJ and took pictures together passing the Statue of Liberty.  Great catching up with them.   The local AGLCA harbor hosts graciously coordinated docktales for 10+ looper boats who are in Beaufort

Tuesday evening.  Very fun to feed off the excitement of these in-progress new loopers.

Tues. evening sunset after a rainy windy day

Looper docktale night in Beaufort

Journey for May 13, 2024