Sept. 9, 2022 Holed up Hampton, VA

Sept. 9

In a nutshell, we've done three long travel days with not much extra time or energy to blog about each day. But we're settled in Hampton for a few days waiting for the wind to ease off a bit before tackling the open waters of the Chesapeake.   So finally, here are the details of our travel days. 

Sunday Sept 4.   71 miles. With our extra crewmate having jumped ship, we're back to just the Captain and Admiral. Today's destination is Belhaven.  Left at a reasonable 9:30 waiting for slackish current.  No issues leaving dock - always a good thing.   Had an outgoing tide all the way through Adams Cut to the Neuse River.   I had forgotten how long that cut is! Takes hours to get through and the entire time we were swarmed by center consoles headed south.  At our 9.5-10 mph speed we still put out a decent wake but if we slowed for every one of those boats we'd still be there. So, we just powered ahead and watched behind us to make sure they got over the wake safely.  Made it to and across the Neuse River without any issues.  Just a minor chop.  Then through the small cut connecting to the Pamlico River.  This is home to R.E. Mayo Seafood and their fleet of boats.  You can stop for fuel and fresh seafood during the week but closed this day. 

Shrimping fleet at R E Mayo Seafood Co.

Crossing the Pamlico River we had several dolphins come and play alongside the boat.   It appeared to us to be a pair of mothers and young dolphins.  Perhaps teaching them the art of wake surfing as they stayed with us for an unusually long time span.  Doesn't matter how many times you see them it's always a treat.

Dolphins!!

 From the Pamlico we headed up the Pungo River and past the breakwater into Belhaven.   Trying a new place called Dowry Creek Marina.   Family run, friendly. helpful with our dock lines and a quick pumpout despite our 5PM arrival at the very end of their day. They have a heated pool which we were too tired to try. Fixed docks but we had an easy side tie to pilings. Spaghetti dinner on board and then early to bed for another long day ahead. 

Dowry Creek Marina

Journey for Sept 4

Monday Sept 5.  82 miles.  Getting better at these early starts although our planned 7 AM somehow turned into 7:20. Wonderful sunrise to start the day. Calm waters as we finish the Pungo River and enter the Alligator-Pungo canal. 

Sunrise over the Pungo River

Long straight stretch of wilderness.   We got to see an alligator as he swam across the canal just after passing the Fairfield Fixed Bridge.  First time we've ever seen one here but based on seeing them in Florida, we estimated him at a good 8'-10' long.    More wildlife ahead as we spotted a bald eagle perched majestically on the top limb of an old dead cypress tree.  Thought it was just an osprey initially but with our binoculars the solid white neck and pronounced yellow beak and claws gave him away. 

Long straight stretch of Alligator -Pungo Canal

Yes, that  ripple is the head of an alligator crossing the canal

No traffic out today at all on these stretches of the ICW.  Made it to the wide open Alligator River and got a swift passage through the Alligator Swing Bridge which could have been our only potential slowdown today.   From there it's across the Albemarle Sound and up the North River. Waters on the Neuse, Pamlico and Albemarle can all get snotty at times if the winds kick up, so we were thankful for such nice days to transit.  

Alligator River Swing Bridge open for passage

We decided to forgo our normal Dismal Swamp Canal passage and take the alternate Albemarle-Chesapeake canal route this trip.  Destination is Coinjock Marina for their famous 32-ounce prime rib dinner (which we split - so don't judge us).   Perfectly cooked, nicely seasoned, tender and tasty!   Ate dinner early at 5 so time to digest before settling in to watch the season opener Clemson vs Ga Tech football game.   We had a 6:30 AM departure planned for the next day so only made it to the 3rd Q before having to turn it off.  By then the winner was a given - Go Tigers!!

32 oz prime rib dinner for 2. Perfect after a long day 

Journey for Sept 5

Tues  Sept 6   63 miles.  We had such a great plan worked up for today to hit multiple bridges and locks   at just the right times to meet their scheduled openings and insure a timely passage to Hampton due to potential rain in the forecast for the afternoon.  We pushed off our side tie at Coinjock at 6:30 and got to see another colorful sunrise over the marshes. Sort of makes up for the cloud cover ruining our sunsets.

Sunrise leaving Coinjock

Phase one of our plan which was supposed to be the more difficult, went off without issue.   We timed our arrival at the North Landing Swing Bridge perfectly for his 9:30 opening then ran the perfect speed for the 10AM opening of the Centerville Swing bridge.   Slow cruise up to Chesapeake, VA and the Great Bridge Bridge and Lock arriving early for their hourly opening at 11.  Got to practice our side tying skills at a free dock while waiting.  Promptly at 11 we got through the bridge and into the lock.  We were the only boat in the lock and went down a whopping 2'.  New boat in a new lock so we still took time to discuss our strategy and get in the old routine of having on our life jackets, etc.   A completely uneventful morning up until now other than a few minor rain sprinkles but not enough to keep us off the flybridge.  

Great Bridge Bridge opens to let us pass into the lock

Now begins Phase 2.  Supposed to be the easy part as all seven remaining bridges from here to Hampton are either fixed high bridges or railroad bridges normally kept in the open position unless a train is passing.  Just before our route intersects with the Dismal Swamp route is Top Rack Marina.  Sort of sits by itself in the middle of nowhere but they've always had great diesel prices.  Today was no exception at $4.29/gal!!   We stopped and topped off the tanks.   Once fueled up we start heading into the Newport area.  Very industrial and commercial with lots of Naval contractors working on carriers, battleships, supply ships, etc.  We round a corner and see the Norfolk Souther Bridge #7.  Looks to be down instead of usually open position.   Call on the radio and we're informed they will open in half an hour after the Amtrac train crosses.  We wait and wait and idle around for 45 minutes and finally the train crosses, but the bridge doesn't go up. This bridge is controlled remotely from another bridgetender.   A small tug also waiting for an opening finally calls to remind the bridgetender to open. " Sorry, outside checking some things".   It finally opens and we both head upriver under a few more bridges before coming to the normally open but now closed Beltline RR Bridge with a slow moving line of railcars passing over.  So again, we wait.

The last railcar finally crossing the Beltline RR bridge

The sky starts getting very dark around us. We talk about heading below to the pilothouse. About this time the bridge gets clear and starts to open just as a tug and barge is pushing its way from behind us.  Then the rain and wind suddenly come pouring down.  I quickly head below to take control from inside and get us under the bridge. I'm going easy while Martha's getting the topside secured but the tow is pushing ahead full speed.  He sees us on his AIS only going about 5 knots and calls asking us to stay on the channel edge as he passes on our port side as he's doing 7 knots. We let him pass. Martha finally comes in looking all drowned and miserable.  But now it's raining, and the wind is gusting, and we decide its best to just stay behind that slow tow and follow him through the harbor. It's a little slower but seems a safer strategy.   The rain finally abates, and spotty sun returns with 45 minutes to go. 

Following the tow Alexandria Duff through Norfolk

I guess this is what they mean by "isolated showers"

Radar check shows all rain staying south of us, so we opt for a quick move back up to the flybridge as we enter Hampton and ready for docking.  Never been to Hampton before so felt we should check it out.   Reservations at the Downtown Hampton Marina which is the city dock.  Bonus - Bell Island Brewery is directly behind the marina. Hampton is sort of a step-child to the bigger towns of Norfolk and Portsmouth but it positions us to quickly and easily enter out into the Chesapeake Bay.  Unfortunately, windy conditions the next few days are going to keep us here.  Strong N/ NE winds can build a nasty sea state blowing down the length of the bay.  We've been caught out in uncomfortable conditions on the bay and see no need try our luck.   Calmer days are ahead.  We'll wait it out. Gives us a chance to explore the town, reprovision, sample some local restaurants, visit the VA Air and Space museum, and the Hampton History Museum.  All within easy walking distance.   And there's always boat chores needing attention to keep us busy.

Hampton Downtown Marina - we're docked on the
 other side of green roofed building

Journey for Sept 6