Sept 30, 2022 To the Eastern Shore and back

Mon.  Sept 26.  -  43 miles

We decided to head across the bay to the Eastern Shore of MD on what is called the Delmarva Peninsula.  Good day for cruising.  Sunny and 70's.  Slight SW breeze keeping the low swells on our stern.   This part of MD is rural, historic, and quaint.  Farming, seafood and shipbuilding were/are the mainstays.  Still plenty of watermen around working their trotlines.  

Traditional waterman's boat set up for crabbing with a trot line.

There are old houses beautifully restored and maintained in the towns and huge newer houses on the waterfront.  Most are 2nd homes for the wealthy of Baltimore, Philly and Washington.  Away from the waterfront it becomes mostly farmland.  We decided to drop the anchor in Oxford.  Put the dingy overboard. and headed to The Capsize Restaurant for a late lunch.  Very disappointed they were out of crab cakes.  

As You Wish nestled at anchor in Oxford

Even more disappointed that Scottish Highlands Creamery was not open - best ice cream I have ever eaten, which is saying a lot!!  Quiet night on the hook except for some small wakes as the watermen headed out at 4:30. Back to the town dingy dock Tuesday morning and a stroll around the town.  Pretty subdued on a weekday during the offseason. 

Oxford-Belleview Ferry established 1683. In continuous service since 1836.

Journey for Sept 26

Tues. Sept. 27 - 15 miles.

Upped anchor early afternoon for a short cruise out the Tred Avon River, up Broad Creek and into an anchorage on San Domingo Creek.  Five sailboats already anchored in the main channel, so we pulled into a side creek with just enough water and swing room and a bit better wind protection. Dingy back down off the upper deck with the davit.  We're getting better and faster with this process but still a bit slow and cumbersome. 

Beautiful classic Hinckley sailboat

This anchorage offers a back way into the town of St. Michaels via a town dock at the headwaters. After a leisurely breakfast we finally headed to town.   Walked the streets, checked out some tourist souvenir shops, checked out the waterfront and stopped at The Galley Restaurant which advertised themselves as winners of the best crabcakes on the eastern shore.  To say our meal was disappointing is an understatement.  Service was terrible - over 2 hours for our meal.   Martha's cream of crab soup was a watery mess with some pulverized crab bits.  The crabcake at $30 was small, bland and flavorless without even a bit of lump crab to be found.  Stopped at the Eastern Shore Brewery in an attempt to end our visit on a high note.  Then remembered this brewery specializes in IPA's.  Their only dark beer was a porter that they didn't even have on tap. Sad day when the best thing on our flight was a fruit seltzer!   

Yesterday and todays travel mimic what we did while cruising the Great Loop.  You can read a more detailed account of the area on that blog for May 17 and 18. 

On the Water with As You Wish (looperasyouwish.blogspot.com)

Journey for Sept 27

Thurs. Sept 29 - 44 miles

Decisions. Decisions.   We've got a nor'easter blowing down the coast and Hurricane Ian devastating the west coast of Florida with plans to cross into the Atlantic and work its way somewhere into SC before potentially crossing the lower bay with some gusty winds and rain.  We will have unpleasant weather with winds sustained at 15 kts and gusting to 30 kts for potentially a week and forecasted rain for at least 3-5 days starting Friday.  We would prefer an anchorage closer to civilization if we're stuck for a week so decided to head back towards Solomons.   15-20 kt NE breeze with 2' seas on a 3-4 second period.   We'll have a good push with the wind, waves and current at our stern.   We decide to make the trip at the lower helm.  With temps in the upper 50's to start and a strong breeze it was not ideal to be topside. 

View from the pilothouse. Rolly seas but thankfully at our stern

The trip wasn't uncomfortable, but even with the stabilizers engaged we were wallowing a bit as waves grabbed us.  The autopilot couldn't correct quickly enough when we got turned sideways in a big swell, so it was manual steering the entire trip.   We decide to try a different anchorage just up the Patuxent River from Solomons in Mill Creek.

Heading up the Patuxent and under the Thomas Johnson Bridge

It's well protected from the NE winds. Dropped the anchor in 10' of water and let out 75' of chain. We were greeted by a pair of bald eagles gliding overhead and then roosting at the top a pine tree to keep watch over us. We'll sit things out here for a few days and possibly make a run back to Solomons if there's a break in the weather.  Gale warnings, small craft advisories, and plenty of rain will keep us hunkered down here for now. 

One last panoramic sunset before the weather turns on us.

Journey for Sept 29

Sept 25 Solomons Respite

 Sept 25

We always enjoy our time in Solomons.   Just a fun little Chesapeake town.   Interesting history, quaint, boater centric, good seafood restaurants and as we found out this trip some really nice anchorages up Mill Creek.   We had decided to hunker down on Thurs and Fri based on weather forecasts.   They were calling for an all-day rain event Thurs. and then strong winds as a cold front passed through on Friday.  After dropping anchor Wed. we were expecting to just sit around for a nice book reading day on Thurs.

Sunset on Wed. from our anchorage in Mill Creek

We were sort of surprised to awaken to a delightfully sunny morning.   Stayed that way until noon when it clouded up and then we finally got light rain from 2-4 pm before the sky's cleared once again.    Woke up Friday swinging to a refreshing northerly breeze and sunshine and temperatures that reinforced fall had arrived. We were contemplating putting the dingy down and taking a tour of the creek and possibly a trip to the town dock.  But the wind continued to pick up over the course of the day and night.  At least they got that part of the forecast right.   We had good protection in our little cove but could tell there were some serious gusts rustling through the treetops.  

Saturday we headed over to the Beacon Marina.  Not a glamorous marina but we had used it as our home base for a couple months when bringing As You Wish #1 down from Annapolis back in 2018.  Perfectly fine for our needs and meeting up with Dan, Athene and Xavier for an overnight visit on the boat. We have bad memories of our initial attempts to stern in dock here on the old As You Wish with its single engine and underpowered bow thruster on a very windy day. Let's just say it was ugly and eventually completed aborted.   But we put that memory aside and used a relatively calm day to let Martha do all the docking duties. We found our slip assignment.  An 18' wide slip with boats on either side, pilings front and center and a very small, fixed finger pier on the port side.   Adding to the pressure were a number "regulars" on the dock as well as the spectators sitting in the waterfront restaurant.   Got to say I was awfully proud as Martha showed off her skills and backed it in flawlessly the first time! Our guests arrived bringing with them some fresh bagels from our favorite store in Alexandria.  They got devoured. Then our guests spent the afternoon at the Calvert Maritime Museum - one of our favorite small town museums.  Martha and I stayed on the boat and watched a nail biter of a Clemson vs Wake Forest football game go into double overtime before our Tigers were finally victorious.   Then we all strolled to downtown and a nice dinner on the waterfront at The Island Hideaway.

Athene and Xavier - sittin' on the dock of the bay....

Xavier finds the perfect size lighthouse

  Back to the boat where we watched half of the movie CARS before it was Xaviers bedtime. Sunday was pretty laid back with breakfast of waffles, ham and eggs after the boys watched the end of CARS.  The balance of the morning was filled with a trip to the Weis Supermarket for provisions.  We've learned to never turn down a provisioning trip where we can get some of the bulky heavy items back by car.   Before we knew it time was up, and our guests were departing.   It is always amazing to see how quickly a young child develops and partake in the joy and happiness they are experiencing so easily. We're  glad to be able to spend these times with family and share our boating lifestyle and adventures.

Sunday sunset ends a perfect stay at Solomons

  

Sept 21 Down the Potomac and around to Solomons

Sept 20.  Tues.  - 84 miles

We decided to make a long day of it and just cover a bunch of miles taking us back to an anchorage in Breton Bay. The current will be with us all day helping push us a little faster.   Still haven't made it into Leonardtown and won't on this trip either.  Guess we'll just have to put it on the list for another trip.  

Getting ready to leave our slip at CYC Washington DC

Off the dock a little after 7.   Nothing new to report on the trip south vs the trip north.  Passed Alexandria, Ft. Washington, Mt. Vernon, The Ghost Fleet of the Potomac and made it to the Harry Nice Bridge where we once again were hailed by the Range Boat informing us the Middle Ground was again off limits.  Talked to the same ranger and gave him the route instructions.  He sent us on our way and like on our way north we were disappointed again in not seeing any military activity, not even a fly-by.  

Waters were about as calm as they come. 

Lots of open calm water and easy driving with the autopilot.   Slow going over a shoal at the entrance to the bay then picked our spot and set the anchor. Pop a beer, fire up the grill and watch the sunset before calling it a day.  Yup.  Living the good life on days like these!!

Shoreline around our peaceful anchorage as dusk approaches

Just another sunset. 

Journey for Sept 20

Sept 21/ Wed - 59 miles

We really would have liked to drop the dingy and go explore Leonardtown but we're also watching the weather. Forecast calls for rain on Thurs. along with high winds Thurs and Fri.  So today, after watching a gorgeous sunrise and having a bit of breakfast, we raised anchor and pushed on.

Sunrise was more colorful than the sunset

It was another splendid day to be on the water.  Warm and flat calm even exiting the Potomac which is known for being very tumultuous at times.  It's a wide-open area entering the wide-open Chesapeake.  On a day like today there were no issues - just lots of open non-descript water.   Highlight of the day was crossing paths with "Zora Neale".  I had exchanged emails occasionally with the owner Roy since his boat is the same model Marine Trader as our original "As you Wish".   They were just leaving Solomons headed to DC while we were doing the opposite.  He'll eventually head south to Florida so hopefully we'll meet in person sometime down there.   

Passing the Nora Zeale - sister ship to our original As You Wish

And their picture of the current As You Wish

Yet another highlight was after finding our anchorage.   We did a customary cruise around Back Creek to check out the boats at marinas but then went up Mill creek with its better protected coves in residential areas.  Found the one I thought would work best in NNW potential gales on Friday.   Dropped the hook and looked over at a boat on a nearby dock. "Suz Inn" on the stern.  We know that name!!  It belongs to the AGLCA Harbor Host. We had met Doug on previous visits to Solomons when he helped line up a marina for a short haul when we were bringing "As You Wish" #1 down the Chesapeake.  Then helped us again secure dockage at the Solomons Yacht Club when we were northbound doing the loop.  We weren't anchored 15 minutes before he was contacting us to see if he could be of any help.   We're settled in here for a few days. Then the weather turns nice again for the weekend.  Hoping that Dan, Athene and Xavier will be able to come down from DC for an overnight visit in which case we'll head over to one of the marinas.  Fall is officially here.  Cool weather coming in with this front.  Just starting to get a touch of color on some trees. 

Journey for Sept 21

Sept 19 Washington DC

 Sept 19

We've had a great time in DC.   Got in midafternoon on Friday which gave us time to give the boat a quick wash.   Dinner at Surfside which is actually a seafood/mexican/taco shop here at The Warf.  Really good fish tacos for me and shrimp spring rolls for Martha.  Add an order of chips and guac to go and we had a nice sunset dinner in the cockpit.   

Saturday we spent with my nephew Dan, his wife Athene and their almost 3-year-old son Xavier.  There is a really good farmers market in old town Alexandria, and they were kind enough to pick us up and take us there. Purchased some great looking veggies and baked goods.   Biggest disappointment was the vendor where we have gotten Jordanian dates in the past would not be getting another shipment until Oct.  Those things are amazing!! 

Great vendors and big crowds at the farmers market

Then a trip to Best Buy to pick up another Samsung tablet for running our navigation apps.  We're finding there's times when having a second would be beneficial plus our original is getting a bit of age and we were concerned about it dying unexpectedly on us.  Spent some time over at their house helping rearrange some furniture into their recently renovated bonus room and then enjoyed a delicious BBQ dinner cooked by Dan.  

Sunday was our day to host them on the boat along with their friends Tim, Nicole and Maddie.   Maddie is about the same age as Xavier and together they are best buds. One bit of drama before we got going as we had to find a second child's life jacket.  Thankfully a neighbor on the dock had one for us to use.  Took them down the Potomac past Alexandria where they live and continued down to anchor off Mt. Vernon.   Perhaps a mistake to anchor there as we got waked unmercifully by the heavy boat traffic. 

Two peas in a pod

 Back to DC with both Xavier and Maddie getting a turn at the wheel.  Maddie quite the serious and concentrating captain.   Xavier - a bit more interested in steering his own course and trying to reach the horn button.  Seemed like everyone had a good time although we were exhausted.  Just not used to having that much activity.  Wish I had half the energy of those young ones!

Xavier takes his turn at the wheel

Monday we opted to stay an extra day at the marina and play tourist.  I had hoped we could tour the Air and Space Museum but it was closed for renovations. Next option was the SPY museum.   We always laugh at the estimated time to explore museums.  They said 2-3 hours.  We left after 5.  Pretty interesting displays and a nice interactive experience to test your spy skills.  We were so slow our "spy cards" timed out before we could get our final assessment!  I'm guessing we shouldn't expect any calls from the CIA trying to recruit us.

The SPY Museum

Our round trip river cruise on Sunday

Sept 16 Another anchorage and Washington DC

 Thurs Sept. 15  -  58 miles

After a peaceful night at anchor, we were treated to another colorful sunrise.   That made up for not having a viewable sunset last night as cliffs and trees were in the way. 

Nothing like a beautiful sunrise to start a chilly morning

Lifted the anchor at 8:30 and headed out of Breton Bay.  Quite a nice anchorage we'll probably use again on the way down the Potomac and finally do that dingy ride to Leonardtown we had hoped for on this trip.   A couple of interesting things today.  As we're heading up the main channel of the Potomac, we hear a radio call. "Hailing the northbound vessel on the Potomac passing the Wicomico River".  Well, we're in that general vicinity but it's a big area and so we disregard the call.   About 5 minutes later we hear another call. " Hailing the northbound vessel on the Potomac passing the Wicomico River between markers 17 and 18.".  We're right alongside those markers so know he's calling us, but there's not another vessel in sight.   He informs us the Middle Danger Zone is off limits today and tells us we need to head towards the Maryland shore.  He gives explicit directions for continuing north while staying out of the danger zone.   Come to the yellow can "M" and pass it on your port. I'll be there.  From there head to the Swan Point Shoal Marker.  Pass it on your starboard. Then head to yellow ""O".  Pass on your port.   Finally head around the red buoys 30 and 32.  After that you're clear to use the normal channel. All very friendly and professional. Martha jots down all the instructions and we set our new course on the chartplotter. The charts show areas called the Lower Danger Zone, Middle Danger Zone and Upper Danger Zone.  Not sure what was going on there today, but we never saw any activity while passing through.  Up the river a bit we pass the tow "Capt. Tim" headed southbound with a load of sand.  Radio silence as we pass on the "1's" - port to port. 

"Capt. Tim" was about the only other boat out today

Next up was passing Mallow Bay.  I had seen on my chartplotter  markings for a huge number of wrecks in the bay. As we passed by several remnants of wooden vessels could be detected along with the rusting steel hulk of the Accomac. I had read decades ago in an old Chesapeake Bay magazine about the Ghost Fleet of the Potomac.  The largest collection of wrecks in the western hemisphere with over 200 boats left here spanning over 300 years.  The majority were wooden ships built for WW1 that never saw active duty and were finally scuttled and burned here.  Now part of a marine sanctuary. Link to more information below.

  Ghost Fleet of the Potomac, Mallows Bay | National Trust for Historic Preservation (savingplaces.org)

After that we finally passed the Marine Base at Quantico on our port as we started turning slowly to starboard and our anchorage for the night in Mattawoman Creek.  Good anchorages on the northern part of the Potomac are a bit harder to find.  This was not looking ideal with some exposure to the steady NW winds and a very shallow entrance. We followed the chartplotter closely and idled in finally settling on a spot with 7' depth and sufficient swinging room.  The wind settled down by nightfall and we even had another boater join us in the anchorage.  We use an anchor alarm to inform us if the anchor drags in the middle of the night.  It's always interesting to see to see how the boat drifted around during the night. 

Full 360 swing on the anchor with tide, current and wind

Journey for Sept 15

Fri Sept 16 - 29 miles

A cool morning as we woke up in Mattawoman Creek to the gentle rocking and buzz of numerous bass boats leaving the creek from a nearby ramp.  First morning in the 60's we've had so generated a little mist rising off the water as the sun rose over the tree line. 

Mist rising on a cool morning at sunrise

Shorter cruise today with our final destination set as the Capital Yacht Club in Washington DC.  Nice scenic cruise as we pass by some of the historical landmarks of VA and MD.    We pass by Washington's homestead Mount Vernon, sitting nicely atop a bluff overlooking the river.  One of these days we need to go for a visit.

Mt, Vernon

Next up is Ft. Washington which guards a very narrow stretch of the Potomac and was instrumental in protection during the War of 1812 forcing the British to advance on Washington by going up the Patuxent River and then overland to burn Washington.

Ft. Washington - protected enemy ships from reaching Washington

Then it was under the new Woodrow Wilson Bridge and a slow no wake idle zone by Alexandria's waterfront before finally reaching the Washington Channel and our destination. It's part of the newly redeveloped riverfront in DC referred to as The Warf.  A bit pricey but it's in the heart of everything. In fact, Sen, Joe Manchin has a boat called "Almost Heaven" on the next dock over from us.   Made the news when some kayakers were harassing him on it during the Build Back Better budgeting debates. 

Passing under the new Woodrow Wilson Bridge
Alexandria just ahead on the left.  Washington Monument in the distance

We're looking forward to spending a few days here visiting with family as my nephew and family are here.  They visited us and the boat in Charleston, but we were never able to get them out for a cruise.  So, we'll make that happen while here!!.

Journey for Sept 16

Sept 14, 2022 Heading up the Potomac

 Mon Sept.12 - 61 miles

We stayed put for a rainy Sunday at anchor in Carters Creek.  Peaceful, lazy day.  By Monday we were ready to head out and the forecasts held true with a splendid day on the water.   Long stretches of open water on the bay and up the Potomac so not too much to see. Calm seas, calm winds, and a bit warm by the time we were docking at Olverson's Marina on the Yeocomico River.  

Wonderful calm seas as we head for the Potomac

Passing Smith Point Lighthouse.  Built 1897. 52' tall

We belong to the Marine Trawlers Owners Association and this marina offers one free night's dockage annually to each member.  We opted to stay 2 nights so they could make a little money on us. Plus, they have a courtesy car and we needed to make a provision run. A cold front was forecast to move through with heavy rain and winds late in the afternoon and it finally arrived just before dusk. Didn't last maybe an hour but sideways rain always gets our attention.  Glad we were tied to the dock and not anchored out.  This is the Northern Neck of Va.  A bit remote and mostly small towns and agricultural, but a lot of history based on all the historical markers we saw on the 7-mile drive to the grocer.  Great sunset on Tuesday.  

Someone at Olverson's had too much time on their hands
turning this old cruiser into their private Pirate ship

Finally got that nice sunset 

Journey for Sept 12

Wed. Sept. 14 - 26 miles 

The day started off with a great sunrise - then things went south for a while.  Supposed to be a short day - just across the river and up a creek but things took longer than expected.  We were in need of a pumpout and had made arrangements to use the one at Olverson's before departure.  Off our dock at 8 and over to the fuel dock.  Tie up, get the hoses set, turn on the pump, it comes to life but nothings pulling out of the holding tank.  Verify the pumpout is working by sucking a 5-gallon bucket empty on the dock.  Change fittings. Still no go.  Attendant finally says they've been having issues with the pump not building up enough suction to pull from the depths of bigger boats.  Works OK on small boats at dock level. They've been trying to get someone to come out and work on it.  Anyway, no go for us. Our plan had been a quick trip across the Potomac to Breton Creek. Go to the headwaters and launch the dingy and have some fun exploring Leonardtown.  Now we're informed the next pumpout is at Coles Point Marina.  Up the Potomac on this side.  It's a little choppy, windy and cool.  Need to put on an extra shirt then we call them to verify the pumpout is working.  "Yes. Self-Serve.  20 bucks".   Check the charts and it looks like skinny water getting in.  Told "no problem". We're coming in their very narrow channel and I'm seeing less than 2' under the keel on the depthfinder.  Hoping for "no problems". Get no answer when calling on the radio so head straight in and tie up to the fuel dock.  Noone's around and I'm not seeing a pumpout station. Martha finds the office, pays the $20 and is told the pumpout is over at the end of C dock. Self-serve.  Just needed to stop at the fuel dock to pay.  So, more maneuvering in more shallow water - kicking up mud swirls.  Not helping that we're at low tide.  Find the pumpout station.  It works!!  It's slow. But we finally get it done.  Just one of the non-glorious activities of liveaboard boating.  That chore completed we're now 2 hours behind our planned arrival.  But winds and waves have abated making the crossing easy.  We enter another scenic waterway and shelve the plans to go to the headwaters.  We pick out an anchorage in Breton Bay in a little cove called Paw Paw Hollow across from Lovers Point.  High wooded shoreline is offering up great protection.  Decide to just relax for the remainder of the day.  Work on a few little projects, read some, and plot out tomorrows longer run up to Mattawoman Creek. 

While some of us were working on projects, others were working on their tan

Journey for Sept 14

Sept 10 Rappahanock River anchorage - Carters Creek

 Sept 10

The stay in Hampton was longer than we expected.  Wound up spending 4 nights. The wind just would not stop blowing above our go - no go   comfort level.   So, we got some things done.   Spent the better part of a full day washing the boat top to bottom. Necessary but seems a waste as we're already covered in salt again after today's travels.  Spent another day at the Air and Space Museum and the Hampton history museum.   Both very well done. Then more maintenance cleaning out all the sea strainers and trying to chase down an issue with the A/C in the master stateroom.  About got it narrowed down to a fault relay.  And then a bike ride to the grocery store to stock up on some fresh provisions. Dinner out 2 nights along with some local craft beers. 

Air and Space Museum - Langley Field is just north of towm

Today's conditions weren't ideal but sort of a "do it today or we might get stuck" in Hampton several more days. Forecast was winds at 12-15+ knots and seas 2+ feet with a short period.  Wind changed direction from the NE it had been blowing for a week to E overnight along with changing wave direction, so we correctly expected confused seas.  Coming out the James River wasn't too bad with waves on the bow but got sportier as we turned the corner at Fort Monroe and headed north. Choppy, whitecaps and wind-blown spray for a few hours and then things settled down after passing the York River and finally getting beyond the open waters where the bay and ocean are wide open. 

Passing Wolf Trap lighthouse 

Balance of the day we were able to run with the autopilot and the stabilizers making for an easier half of the day.   We entered the Rappahannock heading westward towards Carters Creek. The town of Irvington is here which is famous locally for The Tides Inn.  Very nice upscale resort, restaurant, marina.  Dockage is outrageous so we opted to anchor in a secluded side creek among some lovely homes. Anchor down in time to listen to the Clemson vs Furman game. Then fired up the BBQ for a meal onboard.  Rain in the forecast all day tomorrow so we may just hunker down here an extra day before heading for the Potomac.

Been awhile since we BBQ'ed  on the boat.  

Pretty houses up the creek to our anchorage

Journey for Sept 10

Sept. 9, 2022 Holed up Hampton, VA

Sept. 9

In a nutshell, we've done three long travel days with not much extra time or energy to blog about each day. But we're settled in Hampton for a few days waiting for the wind to ease off a bit before tackling the open waters of the Chesapeake.   So finally, here are the details of our travel days. 

Sunday Sept 4.   71 miles. With our extra crewmate having jumped ship, we're back to just the Captain and Admiral. Today's destination is Belhaven.  Left at a reasonable 9:30 waiting for slackish current.  No issues leaving dock - always a good thing.   Had an outgoing tide all the way through Adams Cut to the Neuse River.   I had forgotten how long that cut is! Takes hours to get through and the entire time we were swarmed by center consoles headed south.  At our 9.5-10 mph speed we still put out a decent wake but if we slowed for every one of those boats we'd still be there. So, we just powered ahead and watched behind us to make sure they got over the wake safely.  Made it to and across the Neuse River without any issues.  Just a minor chop.  Then through the small cut connecting to the Pamlico River.  This is home to R.E. Mayo Seafood and their fleet of boats.  You can stop for fuel and fresh seafood during the week but closed this day. 

Shrimping fleet at R E Mayo Seafood Co.

Crossing the Pamlico River we had several dolphins come and play alongside the boat.   It appeared to us to be a pair of mothers and young dolphins.  Perhaps teaching them the art of wake surfing as they stayed with us for an unusually long time span.  Doesn't matter how many times you see them it's always a treat.

Dolphins!!

 From the Pamlico we headed up the Pungo River and past the breakwater into Belhaven.   Trying a new place called Dowry Creek Marina.   Family run, friendly. helpful with our dock lines and a quick pumpout despite our 5PM arrival at the very end of their day. They have a heated pool which we were too tired to try. Fixed docks but we had an easy side tie to pilings. Spaghetti dinner on board and then early to bed for another long day ahead. 

Dowry Creek Marina

Journey for Sept 4

Monday Sept 5.  82 miles.  Getting better at these early starts although our planned 7 AM somehow turned into 7:20. Wonderful sunrise to start the day. Calm waters as we finish the Pungo River and enter the Alligator-Pungo canal. 

Sunrise over the Pungo River

Long straight stretch of wilderness.   We got to see an alligator as he swam across the canal just after passing the Fairfield Fixed Bridge.  First time we've ever seen one here but based on seeing them in Florida, we estimated him at a good 8'-10' long.    More wildlife ahead as we spotted a bald eagle perched majestically on the top limb of an old dead cypress tree.  Thought it was just an osprey initially but with our binoculars the solid white neck and pronounced yellow beak and claws gave him away. 

Long straight stretch of Alligator -Pungo Canal

Yes, that  ripple is the head of an alligator crossing the canal

No traffic out today at all on these stretches of the ICW.  Made it to the wide open Alligator River and got a swift passage through the Alligator Swing Bridge which could have been our only potential slowdown today.   From there it's across the Albemarle Sound and up the North River. Waters on the Neuse, Pamlico and Albemarle can all get snotty at times if the winds kick up, so we were thankful for such nice days to transit.  

Alligator River Swing Bridge open for passage

We decided to forgo our normal Dismal Swamp Canal passage and take the alternate Albemarle-Chesapeake canal route this trip.  Destination is Coinjock Marina for their famous 32-ounce prime rib dinner (which we split - so don't judge us).   Perfectly cooked, nicely seasoned, tender and tasty!   Ate dinner early at 5 so time to digest before settling in to watch the season opener Clemson vs Ga Tech football game.   We had a 6:30 AM departure planned for the next day so only made it to the 3rd Q before having to turn it off.  By then the winner was a given - Go Tigers!!

32 oz prime rib dinner for 2. Perfect after a long day 

Journey for Sept 5

Tues  Sept 6   63 miles.  We had such a great plan worked up for today to hit multiple bridges and locks   at just the right times to meet their scheduled openings and insure a timely passage to Hampton due to potential rain in the forecast for the afternoon.  We pushed off our side tie at Coinjock at 6:30 and got to see another colorful sunrise over the marshes. Sort of makes up for the cloud cover ruining our sunsets.

Sunrise leaving Coinjock

Phase one of our plan which was supposed to be the more difficult, went off without issue.   We timed our arrival at the North Landing Swing Bridge perfectly for his 9:30 opening then ran the perfect speed for the 10AM opening of the Centerville Swing bridge.   Slow cruise up to Chesapeake, VA and the Great Bridge Bridge and Lock arriving early for their hourly opening at 11.  Got to practice our side tying skills at a free dock while waiting.  Promptly at 11 we got through the bridge and into the lock.  We were the only boat in the lock and went down a whopping 2'.  New boat in a new lock so we still took time to discuss our strategy and get in the old routine of having on our life jackets, etc.   A completely uneventful morning up until now other than a few minor rain sprinkles but not enough to keep us off the flybridge.  

Great Bridge Bridge opens to let us pass into the lock

Now begins Phase 2.  Supposed to be the easy part as all seven remaining bridges from here to Hampton are either fixed high bridges or railroad bridges normally kept in the open position unless a train is passing.  Just before our route intersects with the Dismal Swamp route is Top Rack Marina.  Sort of sits by itself in the middle of nowhere but they've always had great diesel prices.  Today was no exception at $4.29/gal!!   We stopped and topped off the tanks.   Once fueled up we start heading into the Newport area.  Very industrial and commercial with lots of Naval contractors working on carriers, battleships, supply ships, etc.  We round a corner and see the Norfolk Souther Bridge #7.  Looks to be down instead of usually open position.   Call on the radio and we're informed they will open in half an hour after the Amtrac train crosses.  We wait and wait and idle around for 45 minutes and finally the train crosses, but the bridge doesn't go up. This bridge is controlled remotely from another bridgetender.   A small tug also waiting for an opening finally calls to remind the bridgetender to open. " Sorry, outside checking some things".   It finally opens and we both head upriver under a few more bridges before coming to the normally open but now closed Beltline RR Bridge with a slow moving line of railcars passing over.  So again, we wait.

The last railcar finally crossing the Beltline RR bridge

The sky starts getting very dark around us. We talk about heading below to the pilothouse. About this time the bridge gets clear and starts to open just as a tug and barge is pushing its way from behind us.  Then the rain and wind suddenly come pouring down.  I quickly head below to take control from inside and get us under the bridge. I'm going easy while Martha's getting the topside secured but the tow is pushing ahead full speed.  He sees us on his AIS only going about 5 knots and calls asking us to stay on the channel edge as he passes on our port side as he's doing 7 knots. We let him pass. Martha finally comes in looking all drowned and miserable.  But now it's raining, and the wind is gusting, and we decide its best to just stay behind that slow tow and follow him through the harbor. It's a little slower but seems a safer strategy.   The rain finally abates, and spotty sun returns with 45 minutes to go. 

Following the tow Alexandria Duff through Norfolk

I guess this is what they mean by "isolated showers"

Radar check shows all rain staying south of us, so we opt for a quick move back up to the flybridge as we enter Hampton and ready for docking.  Never been to Hampton before so felt we should check it out.   Reservations at the Downtown Hampton Marina which is the city dock.  Bonus - Bell Island Brewery is directly behind the marina. Hampton is sort of a step-child to the bigger towns of Norfolk and Portsmouth but it positions us to quickly and easily enter out into the Chesapeake Bay.  Unfortunately, windy conditions the next few days are going to keep us here.  Strong N/ NE winds can build a nasty sea state blowing down the length of the bay.  We've been caught out in uncomfortable conditions on the bay and see no need try our luck.   Calmer days are ahead.  We'll wait it out. Gives us a chance to explore the town, reprovision, sample some local restaurants, visit the VA Air and Space museum, and the Hampton History Museum.  All within easy walking distance.   And there's always boat chores needing attention to keep us busy.

Hampton Downtown Marina - we're docked on the
 other side of green roofed building

Journey for Sept 6