Sept. 15, 2026 Castine to Southeast Harbor anchorage

Sept. 15-16, 2026  Castine to Southeast Harbor Anchorage 32 miles and 3.5 hours

Good night on the mooring ball as the winds continued to subside.  Not sure who's ball it was but we thank you!  Nice blue skies and light winds to start the day.  Dropped the line and headed over to the town dock at Castine.  Make our way behind State of Maine from the Maritime Academy and find the town dock empty except for one small boat, so plenty of room for us. Got there a little after 10. With a 2-hour docking limit during the day, we needed to get gone by 12:30. First impression is it's a very small commercial area on the waterfront.  Just a couple of stores and restaurants. Stopped at the visitor's center and picked up a very nice walking tour map.   For such a small town they also have a great app to use while walking the town with audio available to listen at each stop.  Wish more towns would make this type information available for visitors. Enjoyed our time walking the tree lined streets with many older houses being kept in outstanding condition.  Very New England feeling with white painted houses rather than the more typical coastal style of naturally weathered cedar shakes.  Good presentation at the historical society about the Penobscot Expedition.  During the Revolutionary War the British captured the town and had started building an earthen fort.  Castine was still part of Massachusetts at the time, and a large flotilla of ships, transports and Patriot men were sent to oust the British.   Terrible communication between the Patriot Commanders resulted in an embarrassing defeat.  Considered the worst naval defeat in US history until Pearl Harbor.  Still used as a case study by the military today.

Here's a link to the app if you're interested in a virtual tour.

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/castine-history-highlights/id1438564894.

Pentagoet Inn and Restaurant built 1894. 
Served as the original home of the Maine Maritime Academy back in 1941

The 1814 customs house.  Castine was one of 10 designated
official ports of entry in Maine - hence much of the towns early wealth.  Currently
houses the second oldest Post Office continuously operating in the same building.

Trinitarian Congregational Church circa 1829 has been expanded
numerous times since it's founding

Couple of nice houses on Main Street

Preservation work in progress

The Town Hall is housed in an historic building donated by Charles Emerson

Halloween decor starting to come out means it's about time for us to head south

The Adams School circa 1852 still serves K-8 students.

The town square is up the hill a few blocks off the waterfront.  Only one monument on the square. Honors local citizens who died during the "War for the Preservation of the Union"

Historical Society housed in the 1859 Abbot School building on the left. 
 Used as a Teachers School after the civil war and then as a High School until 1961

Back to the boat after our rushed tour.  Definitely could have spent a few more hours there but we've got about a 3-hour cruise to our next anchorage and need to get going.   Slight breeze but sunshine so not too chilly despite temperatures remaining in the 60's.  Work our way down the West Penobscot River passing numerous granite islands, sailboats, lobster boats and of course lighthouses. 

Nice day out on the water - light breeze, sunshine, calm waters

Windjammer taking a group for a cruise

1838 Eagle Island Lighthouse.  We thought the other building was a
 teepee when we were first approaching.  Actually, a fog bell tower.

Working our way through some more scenic area

Crazy to think of the effort required to wear these granite areas smooth

1857 Deer Isle Thorofare lighthouse.  Marks the western entrance to Stonington

You could almost enjoy the scenery, if not for the constant
focus required to avoid the lobster traps

Turn to port puts us on the Deer Isle Thorofare.  Town of Stonington is in the center of this stretch.  Stonington is ground zero for the largest collection of lobster boats in the area and the surrounding waters testify to it.  Cram full of trap buoys.  Some great anchorages close nestled in a congregation of islands but the lobster boats passing around them starting at 4:30AM makes them a bit uncomfortable.  We pass through the thorofare and eventually turn north heading towards our anchorage up inside of Deer Isle.  

Entering the thorofare  

Saw several boats stopping at this float.  Not sure if dropping
off their lobsters or picking up fresh bait.

Fishermen's homes cling to the shoreside while their boats bob on moorings

No real harbor here - just several commercial wharfs

 By late afternoon every mooring will be occupied by lobster boats.

Here comes another lobster boat charging into town with his catch

Southeast Harbor is a nice, protected area.  Not a working harbor - more a harbor of refuge. Several good places to drop the hook. Natural surroundings with rocks and trees for protection from winds in just about any direction.  Couple of reviews mentioned good seal watching area.  We've seen a couple of heads pop up but that's been about the extent of it for us.  Once again, we're the only ones here.  I'm beginning to think most cruising boaters may already be headed south.

The shoreline at our anchorage at high tide

Same picture at low tide

Martha working the drone

Very peaceful anchorage for two nights.

Clouds kept obscuring our sunsets, but Martha got these amazing sunrise pictures

Refection off the flat water - what a way to start the day!

                           Journey for Sept. 15, 2026 - (No, our max speed was never 174mph,                        Nebo just got confused about the pause at Castine).

 

Sept. 12, 2026 Castine anchorage (Smith Cove)

Sept. 12-14, 2026   Rockland, ME to Smith Cove Anchorage    29 miles and 3.5 hours

Very pleasant mid-morning departure from Rockland Landing Marina.  Sunny and 60. Winds hadn't started up yet making our departure easy.  Primarily an open water cruise today, but in the more protected waters of Penobscot Bay.    Make our way out the harbor and past the lighthouse protecting the town seawall.   Pleasant scenery with the Camden hills off to the port side and various islands along the way. 

The Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse built at the end of a 4000' breakwater
protecting the harbor from strong "northeasters"

Camden Hills in the background as we head across Penobscot Bay

Decided we could be content with this house and boat for our summer cottage

Lobster traps around but mostly scattered and not creating a terrible obstacle for us.  Otto is getting a bit restless going unused, but course corrections still occur too frequently. We would constantly be engaging and disengaging him. Just easier to steer ourselves for a couple hours.  Take a NE heading cutting across West Penobscot Bay before settling into a N tack.  This heads us up Penobscot Bay proper.  Water is fairly protected from any sea swells this far inland but southerly winds at our stern are starting to change flat calm into ripples.  Water is cold and deep in the main channel.  250' deep and 61 degrees.  Keeps the area free of lobster pots providing a bit of a breather.

Approaching the waters between Belfast and Castine we're inundated with sailboats working their way back and forth across the open bay.  Interesting to see the heading all aligned on AIS.  Pretty obvious we're cutting right through their regatta.  Manage to get through without forcing any boats to alter course and lose time.  Bunch of nice boats making decent time now that the winds have picked up. 

Headed for the regatta

Old wooden classic sailboat still has plenty of life

Our plan was to do a day stop in Castine.  Use their town dock for a few hours to quickly walk the town.  Supposedly some nice historic homes nestled along the water.  Didn't see any transient boaters out on the water and with it being after Labor Day figured it wouldn't be an issue finding space. Castine is home to the Maine Maritime Academy and their training vessel State of Maine.  Not a huge dock to begin with and a few of the locals already had their boats secured.  Figured prospects were dim that a couple of them would leave simultaneously so we could fit.  

Passing Dyce Head Lighthouse built in 1828 as we turn
into Bagaduce River and head for Castine

Maine Maritime Academy on the hill overlooking Penobscot Bay

No way you can miss the State of Maine at their dock in Castine

Left side of this picture is the Castine town dock. 

We had planned on staying in Smith Cove across from the town, so just went and anchored.  Good spot with nice protection from the SW winds that have been building and are expected to continue. Tree lined shore with just a few homes mostly hidden and scattered in the woods.  Had the anchorage completely to ourselves. Forecast calling for rain all day Sunday so we'll stay anchored and plan on stopping for a quick tour of Castine Monday morning on our way out.  Late afternoon we heard a commotion outside in the water.  Watched as a combination of seals and cormorants were feeding on a school of fish.  

School of baitfish jumping to avoid the seals

Sunday was a complete washout. Rain most of the day.  Good day for some football and F1 racing on the TV.   Thank you Starlink and Amazon Firestick!   Wound up starting Monday at the same anchorage.  Rain all gone and a nice sunny day. Still cool in mid 60's. Winds picked up from the NNW with small craft advisories due to 25-30 mph gusts. By the time we would have been ready to head for a different anchorage the winds were already blowing strong so decided to just stay here the extra day.  A bit exposed to the winds so feeling a little chop which became a bit bigger chop with whitecaps. Bouncing a bit and swinging with the wind. Kept checking our anchor alarms and could tell we were doing a very slow drag.  Not good as that would now be taking us towards shore if the anchor fully let loose. Rough conditions but decided best to move now rather than risking anything catastrophic during the night. Started the engines, raised the anchor (last 50' of chain caked in mud but anchor came up clean!) and headed for a less exposed area in the cove. Sizeable mooring balls not being used so grabbed one hoping the ground tackle was sufficient for our size.   All worked out in the end.  Even able to see a decent sunset where a bar opens up between two islands. 

Dreary, rainy, overcast, damp day at anchor Sunday

Sunny, windy, wavy with small craft advisory on Monday

The tree lined rocky shoreline gave us good protection from SW winds.
 But once winds turned NW a dragging anchor would take us to them.

Day finished with diminished winds and waves. Made for a nice sunset

Journey for Sept. 12, 2026

 

Sept. 9, 2026 Rockland, Maine

 Sept. 9-11, 2026   Boothbay Harbor, Maine to Rockland, Maine 45 miles and 5.1 hours

Good time in Boothbay Harbor.  Nice town, good eats, good drinks, friendly dockhands.  But we still need to keep moving north.  Been planning this trip for Wednesday.  Pretty decent weather today before the seas turn ugly on Thursday. Strong winds should build up to 5' seas before settling over the weekend...so off we go.  Overcast and cool, but no rain in forecast.  Woke up to 55 degrees and highs only mid 60's.  Feel like temps stayed in mid 50's all day.  Breeze off the 61 degree waters keeping it damp.  Would have liked running from the pilothouse but these lobster traps have us too nervous.  Better visibility from up top which we'll need. 

Saying farewell to Boothbay Harbor

Dreary and cool morning to start our voyage

After exiting Boothbay we round Linekin Neck and are in open waters. Waves are running 2' but with a short period and primarily on the starboard bow.  Not the smooth up and down swells, but a more push-push-push sensation.   Fairly long haul across the Gulf of Maine.  Deep water - we see up to 230' deep.  Still doesn't keep the lobstermen from setting traps.  Pass the 38' tall Pemaquid Lighthouse built in 1835.  Sitting on a rugged granite wave-swept ledge, it is supposedly Maine's most photographed lighthouse.   Continue on and make a pass aside Eastern Egg Island.  Breeding grounds for a re-established colony of Puffins.  Amazing birds.  Live about 30 years. Don't breed until 5 years old.  Spend 7 months completely at sea then return to the same borough, on the same island, with the same mate, to lay one egg each year. After their 3 month stay on the island, which is generally May, June, July, it's back into the sea for another 7 months. We're once again too late this season to see any.   Start working our way northeast through a maze of islands and then along the coastline as we head up West Penobscot Bay.  Tide is against us and several times as we pass between islands, the current surges and lobster trap markers become very difficult to see as they bob above and then below the surface.  Finally make it to Owls Head Lighthouse.  Sharp turn to port and we're pointed at the open waters of Rockland Harbor.

Out working the traps

Yup - Passed by a lot of lighthouses today

Follow the channel all the way in and dock at Rockland Public Landing by 1:30. Nothing fancy but gives good protection from the expected swells and winds this harbor can get.  Felt like a longer day than the 5 hours it took to get here.  Just a lot of physical and mental fatigue. 

Noticed this crazy looking cloud pattern once we got docked

Looked like a weird watercolor painting in shades of gray

Get settled in and then a quick walkabout.  Enjoyed this town during our visit last year.  Still has plenty of charm and things to do.  Farnsworth Art Museum (multi-generational Wyeth family art collection), Center for Maine Contemporary Art,  Maine Lighthouse Museum,  Capt. Jim Sharp's Sail, Power and Steam Museum, The Strand Theatre (movies, plays and symphony), Project Puffin Visitor Center, Hamilton Marine store, two breweries (Stone Alley and Rock Harbor), tons of restaurants, Atlantic Baking Company (amazing breads and pastries) and a Thursday morning farmers market which is primarily vendors with edibles - fruits, vegetables, cider, meats, seafood, baked goods, honey, maple syrup, etc.   Original plan was to stay 2 nights, but opted for a third night just because we like the town.

Vendors setting up for the Thursday Farmers Market

Picture perfect tree lined Main Street

Splitting a lobster lunch - Lobster Corn Chowder and
Lobster Roll "Tourist Style" - buttered instead of mayo

Boats moored out in the harbor towards evening

There are three windjammer cruisers that operate out of Rockland. 
The green hulled Stephen Taber is the largest

Mural in town celebrating the puffins who were recolonized nearby.

Stopped at Blue Raven Art Gallery housed in an historical bank. 
 Amazing artwork on display including this rooftop garden area.  

Three days without a real sunset. Figured "Sunset at Tenants Harbor"
by William B. Hoyt was next best thing.  Available at the gallery for $20,500!

Journey for Sept. 9, 2026