July 9, 2025 Making Time on the St. Lawrence River

 Wednesday  July 9, 2025  Montreal to Trois-Rivieres 87 miles and 7.1 hours

We had a pretty laid-back time in Montreal.  All day rain on Monday which gave us time to recoup from that long cruising day getting through the Seaway Lock passage. Spent some time re-researching travel tips as we head into new territory and some unique challenges with tides and currents. More on that at a later time. Tuesday was a beautiful day to walk around the old city. No sightseeing this visit as we hit it pretty hard during our visit last year. Instead, we just enjoyed a pleasant walk enjoying the scenery,  doing some people watching and stopping for pastries, poutine and brews. We did manage to play tourists and take a ride on La Grande Roue De Montreal (the Ferris wheel) at sunset.  A few pictures from this trip but you can also click the link below which will take you to our blog from last year which has more info on visiting Montreal.        As You Wish - Our Adventures: July 22-25, 2024 Montreal

Notre Dame Cathedral - still covered up like last year
while undergoing renovation

We found these two statues and their explanation hilarious.
French Canadians stubbornly cling to their language and history. 

Evening view over the St. Lawrence River

While each gondola on the Ferris wheel seats 8, we got this one all to ourselves

Sun setting over Montreal - with Mount Royale in the distance

Evening stroll through a quaint side street in Old Montreal

City Hall at twilight

Tied up for the final night at Port D'Escale Marina

We start Wednesday by heading across the marina to the office area for a pump out.  That went well but then we were trying to confirm our reservation at the marina in Quebec before leaving from here.   I had made them online on Tuesday and gotten an email back that they had received my request and someone would be contacting me shortly.  Since I never heard back thought best to call them.  Only issue was no one there was speaking English.   Had to hang up.   Got staff at the marina in Montreal to call them.  A bit of back and forth as initially Quebec marina was saying they never received the request - yet our staff employee was explaining he was looking at their email to me saying they had received the request.  Eventually they took all our information again, said we were confirmed and gave a confirmation number verbally with assurance we would get email confirmation during the day.  Surprise - nothing arrived, but at least when we got to the marina on Thursday, they knew we were coming and had a nice slip and dockhands waiting.  Yes, language issues DO exist in Quebec province when cruising but luckily there is usually someone who can help. 

Knowing we would have a slip upon arriving in Quebec we felt confident in heading out.  Tonight we are headed to Trois-Rivieres and an anchorage up Riviere St. Maurice. We have a favorable outbound current the entire trip so even departing a bit late we still make good time. Nothing special to see as we leave Montreal as it's mostly commercial wharfs outside the city.  We let "Otto" follow the St. Lawrence ship channel for easy cruising.   Currents leaving Montreal are a good 3-4 knots and then settle into 1.5-2 knots as the river widens.  

Leaving Montreal in our wake after another enjoyable visit

Passing a ship on the river.

And another

And yet another.  Not much else to see today but ships!

After several hours we enter a wide section of water called Lake St. Pierre.  Miles across but also very shallow everywhere except the ship channel.  As we turn up the St. Maurice River to anchor, we're caught off guard by all the boats there on a Wednesday afternoon. A park with a crowded swimming beach is on one side with multiple boats pulled up on the beach.  Additional boats are anchored off it. And of course, there's the routine parade of jet skis and go-fast boats coming and going.  At least it is a posted no wake zone.   We find a decent spot and drop anchor.  Nice lazy current coming down the river plus just a light breeze keeps the boat in a constant position pointing upriver. As the sun sets and the full moon rises most boats leave with the exception of a few cruising sailboaters. We try to imagine how crazy this place must be on a weekend if this is a mid-week crowd.   With most boats gone we settle in for a pleasant night's rest before it's time for our first day to REALLY play the tides and currents as we head to Quebec.

Passing the amphitheater as we round the point into St. Maurice River 

Dragon Boat racing practice.
 Oddly, the all male rowers boat had a female "barker", 
while the all female rowers boat had a male "barker". 

Sun setting at the bow

And the moon rising at the stern.

Journey for July 9, 2025

July 6, 2025 A long angst filled day, but we make it to Montreal

Sunday July 6, 2025.   Anchorage by St. Francois to Montreal   57 miles in 13 hours with 4 locks

We knew it would be a long day - and it was.  We knew there could be some weather challenges - and there were.  We knew there could be some locking challenges - and there were.  But at the end of a LONG travel day, we made it safe and secure to our destination of Montreal and are finished with the Seaway Locks.

First order of business is getting ourselves shipshape.  Bugs have been a problem topside since we hit Cornwall.  Terrible coverage while at anchor - especially overnight. Not sure if it's breeding season, the temperature, the wind direction or what else has instigated it.   Just glad we have a battery-powered leaf blower on board for Martha to blow off all the dead ones and shoo away any still able to fly.   Other item was getting the anchor up and the weeds cleaned off the line.  Thankfully not too bad as winds stayed in the same direction all night, so we weren't scouring vegetation off a large area of the bottom.   Still, both chores needed to be completed, and we were on a fixed schedule needing to make a bridge opening at 9AM about an hour away.  The Seaway has a once daily schedule for downbound passage of pleasure craft through their system.  Bridge 1 at 9AM, bridge 2 at 9:45AM, lock 1 at 11AM, lock 2 at noon, lock 3 at 4pm and lock 4 at 6pm.  Weather forecast calls for a hot 90-degree day and a rainy cold front arriving around 4PM.

The front of the dingy cover covered with bugs

Yes, every dot is a bug - most already dead.  Blowing them off is best way to clean up. 
 Brushing or wiping just makes a nasty mess of bug guts.

Martha's bug cleaning duties complete - now my turn
at cleaning the weeds off the anchor chain.

Made it to the Valleyfield lift bridge at 8:40. The sailboat Galactica was already there and waiting.  They would be the other boat traveling with us through the locks today on the fixed schedule. We tried hailing the bridge as all the guides mandate to announce your arrival and intentions.  No response.  At 8:50 I simply radioed we were here and reporting in for 9AM opening. Still no response so we just waited.  Got a little nervous as 9:00 passed but at 9:10 the bridge finally began lifting.  No announcement, just up it went. The timing of this bridge is important since it starts the timeline for the Seaways schedule for pleasure boaters. Need to be at the next lift bridge at 9:45.  If you miss either of these bridges you'll be waiting until the following day for lockage.  Only five miles to the next bridge so we followed Galactica as the timing for travel is based on speed of sailboat under power.  This meant we would be at idle speed all day. 

Both the Valleyfield and the St. Louis de Gonzague bridges are this same lift type. 

First ship of the day goes past us between the bridges

We make it to the Upper Beauharnois lock a few minutes early, but the doors are open with the green light on inviting us to enter.  Unique tie up in the 4 locks today.  The lockmaster has line tied off at the top.  Once you are in position, they toss down a long length of polypropylene line to each crew member - bow and stern positions.  You attach the line loosely to your outboard cleat (to help keep you pulled up against the wall) and feed it out manually as the water level drops.  Easy lockage going down as water is smoothly released compared to being lifted where in rushing water creates lots of turbulence and you're pulling in the line to keep you in position. After the 40' drop the doors open to let us out.  We are instructed that there is a ship coming out of the next lock and we need to exit and pull off to the port side and let him pass. With the gates open we see the ship looming large ahead.  As we hold position on the side of the channel he moves very slowly past us. We then proceed into the Lower Beauharnois lock.  Drop another 40' and we're out of the lock and still pretty much on schedule. 

Approaching the first of 4 locks today - The Upper Beauharnois.  Galactica leading the way.

Lines secured we're ready to be lowered.

Down 30' and out we go.   Waiting ship in the distance

Once we were out of the way he slowly moved through the connecting channel.
Then we were able to enter the Lower Beauharnois lock.

As we are starting our 17 mile crossing of Lake St. Louis, and despite it still being an overall pretty nice day, the Coast Guard starts announcing there are squall warnings in effect - conditions favorable for development of winds to 50 knots, rain, and hail.  Radar shows the front approaching with arrival expected around 4PM - right when we should be locking! Even at sailboat speed we arrive early at Sainte Catherine lock and are tied up to the pleasure craft dock at 2:30. I'm hopeful they might actually let us lock early.  No ship traffic showing nearby on AIS.  But the lights continue showing red and the information sign continues to show next lockage at 4PM.  So, we wait and are joined by another sailboat - Capaccino Deux.  At 3:45 a down bound ship appears on the horizon creeping towards us. Not good!!  We know he will take precedent as commercial traffic.  The light turns green but not for us.  He moves toward the lock as winds and rain begin. We're catching the outer edge of the storm as radar shows the worst of it staying just north of us.   Glad to be tied to the dock instead of sitting in the lock.  Just not liking our delay.  The ship is lowered but doesn't exit. We wait and thankfully the brunt of the squall passes. Two ambulances arrive on the far side of the lock.  Can't see anything that's happening, but three crew members come out of the bridge and are looking over the side. Have to assume some sort of accident causing a further delay.   The ship eventually moves out and the lockmaster quickly refills the chamber and announces over a loudspeaker "Pleasure craft - prepare for lockage in 15 minutes".  Winds are settling but we're still getting occasional bouts of rain.  No matter - it's time to go and we all head in, get tied up and start down 30' just as another band of rain passes insuring everyone gets wet.  We're finally out of the lock. It's well after 5 and we're supposed to be to the St. Lamberts lock at 6PM which is 7 miles way.  

Crossing Lake Saint Louis we pass another upbound ship.

Squall line approaching from the west as the ship comes in to take our 4PM locking time

I'm watching the tanker Stella on AIS that is in St. Lamberts lock. He should be out in time for us to get right through despite our slightly late arrival.  All seems good as we pass each other in the channel but then I notice another upbound ship passing Montreal and heading into the lock channel.  We will be delayed yet again.    Once more we tie up to the small boat dock to wait our turn.  Thankfully there's just 3 of us as that's all that can fit on these docks.  We wait as Solina finally arrives, gets loaded and rises. Seems like it takes forever for the ship to exit the lock - more likely just my impatience and perhaps a bit longer ship.  At least the winds and rain have abated while we're waiting.  As the ship exits, the call comes out for the pleasure craft to enter.  We gladly oblige.  With just a 15' drop we're through relatively quickly but we're running late. It's now past 8PM.

View from the pilothouse as we pass the tanker Stella

Waiting patiently as Solina ever so slowly comes out of St. Lambert Lock

Just a few miles to Port d'escale Marina but we've got to turn upriver to get there.  We've been in the protection of the Seaway lock channel as it winds around the main body of the St. Lawrence River and the Lachine Rapids.  Now we're headed into the full force of the water flowing at upwards of 5 to 6 knots.   We know what to expect from our visit last year and turn up the rpm's.   With the overcast conditions it's getting dark as we enter the protection of the harbor and out of the current.  Finally docked and secured, we're glad this long 13-hour day is done.   Got to remind ourselves - we're on an adventure - not a vacation!!  Pretty sure we'll have a few more challenging times ahead. After recouping for a few days here in Montreal it will be on toward Quebec. No more locks -YEAH!!!

How is this buoy even able to stay in position given the constant current tugging at it? 

Journey for July 6, 2025

July 5, 2025 Just another travel day.

 Saturday July 5, 2025  Cornwall to an anchorage off St. Francois   30 miles and 3.25 hours

Sort of an uneventful travel day.  You get those occasionally.  Overcast but warming up into the 80's so plenty of boaters and fishermen out enjoying the last of their Canada Day holiday week. A little navigating between islands to start, then out into the more open waters of Lake St. Francois.  Let "Otto" do most of the steering so pretty easy day for us.  Just minding that he stayed in the channel while we watched the world go by. 

Sorry to say goodbye to our dock mates but won't miss
                                  navigating their minefield of droppings. Heavy into napping, as they                didn't even stir when we started the engines and pulled away.

Passing through a narrow cut.  Shipping channel right aside the land.

Nice to see this well-preserved wooden boat out and about. Great sound too!

Only big decision was where to stop.  Always need options so today we decided 1. anchor out in the St. Francois area, 2. Head to Valleyfield and anchor near town or 3. Last resort was to call the marina and see if they had room for us. Had very little information about the anchorage but it looked like one of the rare places that offered a bit of protection from the SW breeze.  Eased our way in as the depth finder kept alternating between reading the depth to the vegetation or the depth to the bottom. 3' or 7' under the keel makes a significant difference in our anxiety level!  Dropped anchor which made it through the vegetation and grabbed hard.  Set the anchor alarms and put out some extra scope since winds are forecast to increase a little overnight.  Relaxed for the balance of the day and then dinner on board.  Early to bed for a long day Sunday as we head for our final locks and Montreal.

Not an overly picturesque anchorage but safe and secure.

Journey for July 5, 2025

July 4, 2025 Canada, Eh!

Friday, July 4th, 2025.  Ogdensburg NY to Cornwall, ON, Canada   54 miles 7 hours 3 locks

Big day today - not just the 249th anniversary of America's Independance, but our first day crossing into Canada.  Potentially a very long day as we'll go through three of the big St. Lawrence Seaway locks which don't have any fixed lockage times. That means it's at the lockmaster's discretion when he'll let you through.  It's normally dictated by the passage of commercial ships who have first priority, but we've heard horror stories about pleasure craft waiting up to four hours to be let through. 

Early morning sunshine as we head for International Bridge #2

 We left the dock at Ogdensburg at 6:30 to make sure we were at the Iroquois lock at 8 AM, which is the earliest they will let pleasure craft through. Passed under the 2nd International Bridge connecting US and Canada.  Arrived at 7:50, docked and checked in.  Lockmaster said he'd have us in within half an hour.  Not sure why the holdup.  No upbound traffic and figured he wanted us out of the way before the downbound ship following us about an hour away got nearby.  Got in and it's such a small drop we don't even tie up.  Just idle and float.  Overall, a quick passage and we're happy.

The check-in dock for pleasure craft at the Iroquois lock.
Walk down the dock, up the stairs and call in your arrival

Idling in the lock as we get lowered a few feet

About a 2-hour cruise to the next lock. There was another boat who locked with us and after being released from the Iroquois lock we let him around us and he punched it.  We ran our normal speed but did get a nice boost from the current.  Had two ships that had come through the lower locks pass us.

We always enjoy seeing a Canadian Steamship Line ship due to their unique graphics.

This one showing a Canada Goose with Native American artwork for wings

SURPRISE.  We arrived at the Eisenhower lock to see him tied up inside with the green light still on awaiting our arrival.  40' drop but these are US locks and use a floating bollard system which makes tying up and going up or down easier.  Lockmaster said he would be holding the doors open for another 20 minutes "just in case any other boats are coming".  As stated, they make the rules, so we waited even though I knew there was no one behind us.

The red floating bollard is recessed into the lock wall
 and rides up and down as the water level changes. 
We have one line tied back to the midship cleat and one forward to our #2 cleat

I'm sure our "buddy" boat had to be frustrated having waited over an hour, but he behaved once the doors opened and we moved together through the channel connecting to the final American lock - Snell lock. It was waiting with the doors open and the green light on.  Quick tie ups and another 40' drop and we were heading out. 

Our "buddy" boat waiting with us at the Eisenhower lock

Water still going down, but not to the bottom yet!

Passing under 3rd and final international bridge.
Note the attentive First Mate shuffling fenders from starboard side
 needed in locks to the port side we'll use at the marina.  

Unbelievably we were done locking by noon!   We had reservations at Marina 200 in Cornwall which is an approved Canadian port of entry.   Got within 10 minutes of it and a police boat passing by circled back, blue lights flashing.   RCMP  (Royal Canadian Mounted Police) = the Mounties!!  Just wanted to do a safety check and verify our paperwork was in order. Started off on the right foot as Martha was still wearing her inflatable PFD and even had a safety signaling whistle attached.   Then handed them our documentation book which included our CG documentation certificate, insurance, proof of a boater safety class, etc., etc.  Asked a few questions about our safety equipment but never got on board to verify anything.  Thanked us for being such conscience and safe boaters and headed off. 

Friendly and courteous Mounties wound up keeping their boat at the same marina

Made it to the marina, got tied up and did necessary reporting into customs and border protection. Received our cruising permit number for display on a side window and approval for up to a 75-day vacation stay to complete the Canadian section of the Down East Loop. 

Nice to be securely tied up after a 7-hour day with 3 locks.

Had time for a walk around the waterfront park then headed up the main street for an early dinner after a long day.  Schnitzels European Flavours.  We settled for 2 appetizers and well deserved drink. While we did get through the locks in great time, it was still a very early start for us and a longish cruising day.  We'll sleep good tonight.   

Welcome to Canada. 
 "Holy Schnitz Poutine" (hand cut fries topped with braised beef goulash,
cheese curds, diced pickles and fried spaetzle)
and Perogies (potato and cheese perogies with sautéed onions and pork).

Journey for July 4, 2025

July 3, 2025 Final stop in the US

 Thursday, July 3, 2025   Cedar Island to Ogdensburg, NY   24 miles and 2.6 hours

Another relatively short cruising day as we're still in sightseeing mode. Today's destination is Ogdensburg, NY.  and the Frederic Remington Museum.   Anchor came up easy with just a bit of grass and a smidge of clay.  Overall, a nice two days at anchor. Good temperatures, gentle breeze, nice sunsets, and minimal wave action at night so we slept well.  Short run to Ogdensburg but wanted to arrive early to have time at the museum.  Overcast with occasional drizzle had us driving from the pilothouse.  We leave the 1000 islands behind and head into the "North Country".  Lots of lighthouses as the main channel crosses back and forth.  At one point it goes through a narrow section where we saw speeds increase 2 mph.  Also, where we crossed paths with a rather large ship.  Not bad except his wake reverberated back and forth in the channel for quite some time.  

Overcast day as we began, then a little drizzle and finished with some sunshine

Lighthouse

Lighthouses

And more lighthouses

And ships too!!

Ogdensburg has a small municipal marina.  Primarily for locals with runabouts and pontoons but they can fit 1-2 larger boats on a seawall.  Really not enough room inside for us to even spin the boat around so we simply backed into the marina and laid to against the wall. Certainly made easier as the weather settled and the sun actually started breaking through. Got all situated, grabbed a couple of very good tacos for lunch at the Dirty Gringo (not sure that's really the ideal name for a food service) and headed to the museum.  

 

Secured and settled.  Time to go eat and explore.

Frederic Remington spent several years in his youth here.  He also had a summer artist's studio on a small island across from Singer Castle.  Because he is so well known with a vast collection of over 3000 works, I was surprised to learn that he died at the early age of 48 from a burst appendix.   His early work was as an illustrator - primarily in black and white for magazines.

Illustrator work in black and white for magazines like Harper's

  He's best known now for his color paintings and sculptures of the west - cowboys, Indians, and soldiers.  The museum has a collection of original castings of 13 sculptures and a huge number of his paintings and illustrations that were donated by his wife Eva upon her death. Remington fought hard to change his image from an "illustrator" to an "artist".  In his later years he started painting landscapes in an impressionistic style.  He also was the author of several novels about the west.  A nicely done small but focused museum. 

Remington sculptures like "The Stampede" were known for the way they captured motion

On left is casting #1.  Note how Remington altered the shield in later castings
 making it easier for the foundry to cast

'Coming Through the Rye" One of the more challenging pours for the foundry
 as only 6 of the 16 horse's feet actually are touching the base

Back at the boat we got busy making arrangements for the next few days.  We'll be starting through the big St. Lawrence Seaway locks and entering Canada tomorrow.  Reservations and fees need to be paid in advance. There's a total of seven large Seaway locks we'll transit.  Five Canadian and two US.  Also need to be sure we have reservations at marinas in between.  Got that all done and still had time to practice some pickleball on the new courts right alongside the marina.  Overall, a pretty satisfying day.

Journey for July 3, 2025