April 6 and 7, 2023 Vernon Creek to Cowen Creek to Toogoodoo Creek

 Thurs. April 6, 2023  Vernon Creek to Cowen Creek - 52 miles

Vernon Creek remains a great anchorage for us.  Easy in and out.  Nice breeze when we anchored, then died off at sunset resulting in a calm night and no other boat traffic.   We prepped for a full no-see-um assault but seems they are toying with us as there were fewer than previous days.  Traveled these parts multiple times so scenery is nothing new.  Around the bend to Isle of Hope and the marina, then past the marinas at Thunderbolt and you know you're into Savannah. We've always been awed by the mega yachts berthed at Thunderbolt for service so were surprised at the lack of them this trip. Bummer. 

Thunderbolt Marina gives notice you are entering Savannah

After Thunderbolt it always feel swampy and commercial to me until crossing the Savannah River.   We had another disappointment on this trip.  We have ALWAYS seen big container ships looming over us at the river crossing.  None on this trip.  Their size as they head up the narrow channel is inspiring.  So again, bummer.    Once into SC we worked our way around Daufuskie Island and then past Hilton Head.  Watched the tourists riding the parachute boats as we passed by. 

Launching tandem tourists for a fun ride.  

Across the Port Royal Sound and up the Beaufort River.   We turned into Cowen Creek before town.  Stayed here on our trip south.  Nice wide-open area.  Found a spot with the right depth to drop the anchor with lots of 360 swing room.  A bit of center console boat traffic in and out rocking us a few times until dark.  

View out of our anchorage at Cowen Creek...

As the sun sets..

Journey for April 6, 2023

Friday April 7, 2023  Cowen Creek to Toogoodoo Creek - 53 miles

Very early departure by our standards.  Anchor up at 7:30 listening to the rapid gunfire of new recruits across the river at Parris Island working on their riflery skills.  Our departure time is critical today.  We need to get past the longish no wake zone at Beaufort.  Then there are three critical passages we must hit between the half rising and half lowering tide or the water will be too skinny for us.  Ashepoo Cut, Fenwick Cut and Watts Cut all have serious shoaling issues.  As we approached Beaufort an Endeavor catamaran was pulling out.  It was like old times following them down the broad Coosaw River.  Reminded us of all the days we followed Russ and Jax on Cat and Dogs while on the loop. These were new loopers on Beachside just 12 days into their trip.  

Beachside - the Endeavor cat we followed from Beaufort

We had gradually been catching up to them as we approached the Ashepoo Cut.  Called them on the radio to say we were slowing down to let them take the lead.  They replied " We slowed down so you could go first".   There was a sailing cat in front of us both who also decided to peel off and not go in first.  By this time several other boats were lining up behind us.  OK. High tide. We knew we would be fine having come through just 2 months ago.  Turned the corner and "OH CRAP!!  Dredge blocking half the entrance where the water is shallowest!  We head in hugging close to the dredge and get through fine.  Water shows less than 7' under the keel but this is with help from a 6.5' tide.  

Boats line up at our stern to follow past the dredge at the Ashepoo Cut entrance.

More heavy equipment on the way to help with dredging spoils

It was a pleasant cruising day in between the cuts.  A little bit more boat traffic than we've had the last few days on the ICW.  Fishermen seemed to be out - recreational folks out wetting a line and commercial crabbers tending their traps.   Lots of dolphin spotting and an occasional one jumping at the chance to ride our waves. Made it through all the cuts without issue and out onto the Edisto River.  We're back into very familiar territory now. 

Dolphins riding our wake

Another work day out on the water

Toogoodoo Creek is another favorite anchorage we've used multiple times.  There's a cold front promising rain Sat and Sun with NE winds gusting over 30 mph.  We head a bit further up the creek than usual to get protection from a tree line. Plenty of depth and swing room even after putting out extra scope. We'll stay here 2 nights then have an appointment to bring the boat over to Marine Propulsion in Rockville. The generator's fuel pump has developed a slight leak we'll have them correct.  The early departure from Cowen Creek meant we arrived here early.  Time for some chores and a proper dinner.

Wash day!!  Clean clothes drying in the sun.

Journey for April 7, 2023

April 5, 2023 Altamaha River to Vernon River

 Wed. April 5, 2023  Altamaha River to Vernon River

Woke up here at Fridaycap Creek in the middle of a pea soup thick fog bank.  Literally could not see the water looking over the side.  Thankfully we had not planned to leave until after 9. Amazingly it completely dissipated within 15 minutes around 8:30.    No-see-ums were out again in full force.  

No see um attire.  May not be pretty, but at least it's effective

Our chemical arsenal against the No-See-Ums.  Little impact. 

 Longer travel day today. Needed to hit tides at the right times in specific places. There's about a 6' tidal swing here so the extra water can make quite a difference.  That tidal current is also what constantly forms these shoal areas. We caught Little Mud River on the falling tide with an extra 4 feet.  Not much of a concern.   Then spent most of the day on the back side of barrier islands and crossing sounds before coming to Hell Gate. We were around 2 hours into the incoming tide with about an extra 1-1/2' of water.  South end of Hell Gate has shoaled in worse than when we came through 2 months ago.  Inched our way across one spot where our depth finder went ballistic buzzing with less than 2' under the keel. 

Birds, channel markers and marshes.  Typical GA  AICW

Finally arrived at Vernon River around 4:15. We've anchored here several times before but normally around the bend where there's a bit more protection.  Made sense on past trips when we anchored for several days due to bad weather.  Just a SSE breeze and a one night stay so we decided to drop anchor in the main channel and swing with the tide.   Yet again, we have the anchorage all to ourselves.

Sunset to the west

Full moon rising to the east

Journey for April 5, 2023

April 3 and 4, 2023 Fernandina to Plum Orchard to S. Altamaha River

Monday April 3, 2023  Fernandina Beach to Plum Orchard Plantation/Cumberland Island

Released the mooring ball at 8:45 and headed over to Port Consolidated.  It's a fueling wharf just down from the marina.  Almost always has the lowest diesel prices in Florida.  Hadn't ever stopped here before but will make it a point going forward.  Sign a waiver you're heading across the St. Mary's Sound into GA. and forego Fl. tax.  Took on 460 gallons at the best price we've seen in a long time.  Just $3.27/gal.!! Off their dock at 9:45 for a short cruise.  Crossing St. Mary Sound was a non-event.  Not much wind today so waters were very placid.  Then around past the entrance to Kings Bay and the submarine base.   First time we've passed there where we didn't see any patrol boats out.  Apparently, no subs at the base or preparing to enter.   Went past our normal anchorage on Cumberland Island at the Sea Camp and Dungeness ruins and proceeded up to the East River/ Buckhill River and anchored aside  the landing for Plum Orchard Plantation.  Arrived by noon so had time for some lunch.  Then deployed the dingy and headed to the park dock.  Plum Orchard Plantation is another of the Carnegie Estates.  This one has been preserved by the National Park Service and has guided tours at 11,1,and 2.  We just missed the 2 o'clock tour so will hit it Tues.  Walked around a bit.  House is big from the outside.  No wild horses on site.  Just evidence scattered around the grounds that they pass through. 

At anchor off Plum Orchard Plantation

Journey for April 3, 2023

Tues.  April 4, 2023  Plum Orchard to S. Altamaha River.

The no-see-ums have been eating us alive since the wind died down at Fernandina on Sunday.  Continued over here at Plum Orchard.  Martha seems to be getting the worst of it.  Doesn't seem to matter which of the multiple bugs sprays we utilize.  They are ferocious.  Hope we can get away from them but seems doubtful as we will be passing through marshlands for days.   Despite the bugs we still went back to tour the plantation.  Caught the 11 AM tour with a group of boy scouts from Athens.  Main house built in 1898.  Wing additions added later.  Quite a place for the time of construction.  National Park Service owns and maintains it so not a showpiece like the Biltmore House in Asheville, but enough to get the essence of the place, people and time. 

Plum Orchard Plantation

Finally saw some horses on Cumberland as we were leaving

Abandoned lighthouse at north end of Cumberland

Back to the boat for some late lunch then a rare afternoon cruise start.  We needed to time the tides for getting around Jekyll Island which has some low water needing dredged.  Anchor up at 3:15.  Passed by Jekyll at 5:30 with a 2'+ rising tide and sufficient water.  Across St. Simons Sound and a chance to blow out the engines and run them up to full speed.  Then around that island and finally a leisurely meandering cruise through marshland.  Pulled into S. Altamaha River  and dropped anchor as the sun was setting. 

Anchor went down just before the sun went down

Journey for April 4, 2023

April 2, 2023 Fernandina Beach

 Sunday  April 2, 2023  Fernandina Beach

So we took a mooring ball here in Fernandina Beach on Thursday.  Thought we would just stay a night and move on.   Weather looks wonderful, sunny and low to mid 80's but the wind has been howling outside our go/no-go parameters.  We decided to stay put but haven't felt comfortable trying to drop the dingy in 20-30mph winds and associated wave action to head into town.   So, we've been boat bound.  Catching up on the blog and getting some reading done. Not uncomfortable but we've gotten bounced around a bit since the anchorage is somewhat exposed. At least the mooring has been secure and relatively inexpensive.   Wind direction has changed from NE to SW and that's put the ever-present smell of the papermill directly on us.   Funny thing about Fernandina.  Old shrimping/fishing town so there's that.  Then add the papermill to put odors over the top.  The locals don't seem to mind and the town has survived with the beach resorts and a cute downtown for tourists. 

Those aren't sand dunes behind the shrimp boats.
Piles of wood chips to feed the paper mill

The wind finally laid down Sunday so we dropped the dink and headed to town.  Needed to get our land legs back!   Nice town to walk around.  Lots of historical markers. Well preserved older homes. Shops and restaurants a plenty.  Now has 3 breweries within walking distance.  We made it to First Love Brewery and Amelia Island Brewing Company.  Mocama Beer Company will need to wait until our next visit.

First Love Flight

AIBC Flight and a little something to eat.
Roasted Brussel sprouts in a chili glaze and pickled onions

Tourist town, tourist shops, had to buy something

Restaurant selections get limited on Sunday. I had been checking restaurants and reviews while shipbound. Had my heart set on trying Wicked Bao - Asian Fusion cuisine.  Menu looked awesome. Unfortunately, closed on Sundays.   Second choice was Timoti's Seafood. Can't go wrong with that at the beach.  Open when we walked past mid day, but closed when we went back around 4. Seems they close at 3 on Sunday!! Wound up with a wood fired pizza.  Not bad, just not our first pick.

Got back to the boat and watched the evening show of dolphins.   There's a pack of them that come through every night about an hour before dark.  They play and surface around the anchored boats with the big tourist filled pontoon boat chasing them down for pictures. Good way to end the day.

Dolphins!!   Always good to see them. 
But more fun to watch them playing in our wake.

Perfect end to their weekend. 
 Tiki hut, boat ride, bar drinks, sunset, dolphin watching.

March 30, 2023 Ortega River to Fernandina Beach

 Thurs. March 30, 20203  Ortega River to Fernandina Beach (Mooring Ball)

Been an eventful couple of weeks while in Jacksonville.  Arrived at Port 32 for a one week stay.  Time to clean the boat, chill out and get together with our old Looper friends.  Jamie and Trish invited us and Greg and Sonia from Golden Daze over to their townhouse in Nocatee for an Italian dinner.  We had a rental car and were amazed how easy it is to get over to the beach area now that all the roads that were under construction when we lived here have been completed.   Unfortunately, Sonia was under the weather and couldn't make it.   Major topic was everyone's travel plans.   Jamie and Trish on their new boat No Rush and Golden Daze are heading out in about a week to start the Down East loop. Can't figure out why, but we always seem to forget to take pictures when we're with old friends.  Think it may be a factor of too much good conversation going on.  Same thing happened when we met up for lunch with an old fraternity brother and his wife. No picture!!   The craft brewery scene in Jacksonville is top notch.  Lots of places to try with an outstanding selection of very tasty and diverse choices.  While we weren't able to hit them all, we tried our best.

Always nerve wracking watching 50,000 pounds of boat
 getting lifted from the water

The following week in preparation for our trip home to attend a family wedding, we took the boat to Lambs Yachting Center.  Hauled and blocked so it could get a full detailing - hull and topsides.   Bottom paint was in great shape.  A few barnacles on the running gear and trim tabs so had that cleaned and painted as well as having all new zincs installed.   Had a wonderful time at our niece's wedding while all that work was being done.  Katherine and Zack make a wonderful couple. Wedding, dinner, drinking, dancing.  A good time had by all!!  A rare occurrence where the entire group of us kids were able to get together with mom. 

Newlyweds Katherine and Zack

Boat safely launched back into the water so time to start heading north.  We have reservations at Osprey Marina in Socastee, SC for a month mid-April to mid-May to attend our nephew's wedding and take care of spring chores at the lake house.   No big hurry - about 6-7 cruising days will get us there.   After a quick pumpout we were off the docks at Lambs by 9.  Caught the outgoing tide which sped our departure until we hit the railroad bridge downtown Jax.  Normally up unless in use. Unfortunately for us there was a long line of railcars passing VERY slowly over the bridge. Made us even more nervous when the train stopped moving since we had heard horror stories of boaters waiting hours for the bridge to clear and reopen.  Thankfully, after 20-25 minutes the bridge cleared and immediately opened.

Railroad bridge downtown Jax. after it finally opened

Going past the port area we saw plenty of activity. Several container ships getting loaded/unloaded, a fleet of new Toyotas getting unloaded, and a Carnival cruise ship being loading up with passengers. But no traffic moving on the river except us. 

Carnival ship loading up passengers

Passing under the Dames Point Bridge - last one on the St. Johns leaving Jax

Made it to Sisters Creek by noon which was our Plan A stop but since it was still so early we decided to head for Fernandina. Forecast was sunny and lower 70's but with a cold NE breeze blowing 10-15 all day. Net effect of our headway speed and the wind was a cumulative 25 mph blast. We were bundled up in sweatshirts and windbreakers on the flybridge. Burr. Still, a nice cruise. 

Passed these dredges headed south.  Hopefully they were working
on those shallow spots in GA and SC

We picked up a mooring ball rather than staying at the town dock in Fernandina.  A bit tricky with the wind and current but managed it on our second attempt.  Initially thought we would stay one night but have decided to stay until Monday when we can fuel up here at Port Consolidated - best diesel price in the southeast this week.  Wicked winds expected the next few days. Another reason to stay put.

American Star River Cruise ship - we keep running into it.

Finally got a sunset view from the Fernandina Beach anchorage.

Journey for March 30, 2023

March 13, 2023 Back to Port 32 and the end of our St Johns River Trip

 Mon. March 13, 2023  Black Creek to Port 32 Marina - 38 miles

Rain showers continued off and on during the morning.  Finally settled into a very light mist by 1pm with the forecast calling for rain ending and then clearing by late afternoon.  Made the decision to haul anchor and head for Jax.  The 2-1/2 hour run would have us there by 4.  Nice and cozy running from the pilothouse with Otto doing most of the work as we had long stretches of straight travel.  Wind had changed direction overnight so now we had a NW breeze creating a light chop on our bow.  

Peaceful location on a rainy weekday morning.  Just us and the ducks!

Just a little further - under the Buckman Bridge 

Once again passing familiar sights - Dr. Lake Bridge, under the Buckman Bridge, past NAS JAX and finally into the Ortega River and through that splendid little bridge.  Contacted the marina to confirm slip assignment and starboard side tie.  Lines and fenders all set.  Ready to head in when got call back - nope - someone in our slip.  You'll need to set up for portside tie.  Hover in the channel and redo all the lines and fenders. At least the wind died down and current is negligible. Head down the fairway and make a smooth pirouette to back stern in to slip B-069.  Lines secured, power attached.  We're secure for our weeks stay.  Martha will make the most of the marina's washers and dryers. Dirty clothes have been piling up since we left here almost a month ago.  By the same token, the boat hasn't been washed either, so big chore for me.  Next week over to Lambs Yachting Center for a haulout, bottom cleaning, running gear and zinc check, and a full wax job.  

Journey for March 13, 2023

March 12, 2023 Palatka to Black Creek

 SUNDAY !!  March 12, 2023  Palatka to Black Creek - 38 miles

We purposely left Palatka a bit late - it was after 11 by the time we got underway.   Half day cruise would get us to Black Creek by 3 and by then we were hoping the weekend crowd would be thinning down.   Favorable ride for us as we had a strong SW wind blowing at our stern and were riding the falling current.  Winds kicked up at times into 15-20 range putting a chop and occasional whitecaps on the water.  We're in a much wider part of the river now so plenty of fetch for winds to do their thing.  Too far from shore to do much sightseeing so mostly just looking at open water and trying to spot the next daymarker.  

We pass the American Star headed to Palatka from Jacksonville.
7 day river cruises start at $4500pp. We like our cruising better.

The wide open and deeper water gave us an opportunity to run the engines up to WOT and blow any carbon buildup from the turbos. This is a recommended routine since they've been a bit neglected with a lot of low RPM running through the minimum wake areas combined with narrow river areas where we were not wanting to push a big wake.  The boat bottom must be staying fairly clean as we hit our top end speed. It's amazing the difference fresh/brackish water and routinely moving the boat does for preventing bottom growth and barnacles.

Turned into Black Creek coming through an area between shoals on the south side.  Depths never under 7' so a good alternative to the longer northern entrance. Once under the Hiway 17 bridge things got crazy.  Not sure if it was due to the start of daylight savings time and it staying light later, or due to windy/choppy conditions out on the river, or simply lots of new boaters wanting to get out and enjoy the 80 degree weekend, but Black Creek was an absolute zoo.  We cruised up the creek and back for an extra hour hoping things would die off.  Finally, just anchored and hoped the jet skiers, wake boarders, skiers, tubers, pontoon boats, center consoles, go fast boats, etc.  would not hit us or catch our anchor line as they zoomed by.  Thankfully by 5 it started to thin out and got fairly quiet by 6. 

Wakeboarding up and down the creek

No place to go but up and down, so same boats over and over.  
To stay extra legal we even put our black anchor ball on the bow.

Not sure why the hurry, but he threw a big wake our way.

Heavy rain, thunderstorms, potential hail and tornadoes expected tonight.  The forecast has been calling for this front to come through all week.  Put on a good lightning and thunder show with some heavy bands of rain.  Otherwise, nothing too severe for us.  Hardly even much wind. Weather expected to pass by midday Monday.  If so, we'll make a final run back to Port 32 on the Ortega River

Journey for March 12, 20203
Look close for the section of white line
That's our WOT run at 23.4mph