We Start Our 2023 Cruising Season!!

 Wed.  Feb 1, 2023  Osprey Marina to Awendaw Creek   60.7 miles

The holidays are over, our 2 month slip rental at Osprey Marina is over, and we're ready to find a bit of warmer weather.  After topping off the water and fuel tanks and pumping out the holding tank we said our goodbyes to the team at Osprey and headed down the Waccamaw River for points south. Specifically, we're headed to the St. Johns River with hopes of exploring it all the way to Sanford. 

Leaving our home base for the past 2 months - Osprey Marina

The forecast was calling for cloudy drizzly weather, but it turned into a very pleasant 75 degree day.   Caught an outgoing current all the way down the Waccamaw - still one of our favorite sections of the ICW as you meander through forested swampland before coming to the open flatlands approaching Georgetown that at one time were fertile indigo and rice fields. 

Warm sunshine shows up as we exit the Waccamaw and head under
 the  Ocean Hiway Bridge north of Georgetown

Once in the Minim Canal you come across the unique Minim Canal Bridge
 - a floating barge swing bridge

A quick sniff of the air as we passed the papermill in Georgetown verified stopping there was inadvisable today.  Besides, we wanted to make time as we had a favorable tide height for passing through the once again growing shoals around McClellansville.  Easily passed through with the help of an extra 2.5' of tide. No problems and even got our first dolphin sightings. Traveling this time of year is unique with so little traffic.  Passed one boat all day - a sailboat headed north up the Waccamaw.  

Wildlife scenery along the ICW.
Can you spot the white heron?

Made it to our anchorage for the night - Awendaw Creek.   This is a new anchorage for us but one worth remembering.   Easy in/out from ICW.   Good anchoring depth of 10-12', plenty of swing room and room for multiple boats.  Drawback is it can get crowded during the migration season and it's very exposed surrounded by marsh grass - making it buggy in warm still conditions.  We were hoping for a nice sunset over the marsh to end a wonderful first day back on the water. Unfortunately, the weather gods finally brought in that dreary weather and so we ended with dinner and early to bed planning a first light departure the next day. 

Journey for Feb1.2023

Dec 2, 2022 Our Cruising Season Comes to an End - Osprey Marina, SC

FAST FACTS: Total Trip  1785 miles,   Engine Hours  203.4,  Fuel Used 1175 gallons.   We therefore averaged 1.5136 miles per gallon,   5.777 gallons per hour and 8.77 miles per hour.  Normal operation was at 1400rpm showing speed just over 10mph.

 Friday Dec 2   Osprey Marina, Socastee, SC  57 miles

After a much needed full and uneventful night of sleep we were up early and off the dock by 7:30. Nice sunny morning but cold again so ran from the pilothouse most of the day.   Fair number of smaller boats out fishing requiring us to slow down to minimize our wake.  It's that time of year when triple play inshore action is available with trout, flounder and redfish. All good eating.    AIS was showing a boat named Bobbie Ann and labeled as "Fishing Vessel" well ahead of us but going just 6.5mph so we knew it was only a matter of time until we caught up.  As we got closer it was obviously not a fishing vessel but a tug.  He was ahead of us as we approached the notoriously shoaled Lockwood's Folly Inlet. We were using the Bob 423 track overlaid on the latest COE survey.  It requires staying on the far right of the channel almost to the shoreline fighting the inlet current, then shooting across to the far-left side of the channel.  We were hitting it at low tide so were watching Bobbie Ann make his way when we noted a number of funny sharp maneuvers.  We got through fine although we saw a few spots with just 4' under the keel.   Bobbie Ann hailed us and said anytime we were ready to pass him just give a shout on Channel 10.   We chatted a bit and learned he draws 11'. Said he puckered up a few times going across the inlet.  Pushed his way through and said "The old girl does a good job hunting for that deeper water".   We got around him and wished him safe travels.  Called him back when we passed through Shallotte Inlet and saw just 2.5' under our keel (7' total depth) at one point.  Said he may have to wait for tide to rise but we eventually saw him behind us.  Still can't figure how he got across that shoaling!

Getting ready to pass Bobbie Ann

Lockwood Folly Inlet crossing 

Next up was the Little River inlet.  No drama here as it's a major inlet used by the shrimping fleet out of Calabash.  Well marked channel and deeper water. This area is our old stomping grounds.  Just past the casino boat docks is Mariners Pointe Marina where we kept our Trojan 9 Meter International for several years before we moved to Fl. Lots of good memories fishing offshore trolling for kingfish, mahi, yahoo, spanish or bottom fishing for snapper, grouper, etc.  

"Big M" and "The Big M" casino boats at Little River.
Buildings in background on left are at Mariners Pointe.

Heading into Myrtle Beach and the multiple slow/no wake zones. Plenty of development continues along the ICW which amounts to little more than a ditch here. We seemed to be in perpetual low tide all day as we traveled along so not a big surprise when we entered the section called "The Rock Pile" at low water. I actually prefer it then as you can see the hard rock outcroppings that have damaged a number of unsuspecting boats when hidden by higher water.   Overall, not much traffic other than a few sailboats flying Canadian flags heading south for the winter.   One last bridge at Socastee who opens on demand then a few more miles and we were heading into the entrance channel for Osprey Marina and our home port for the next two months.

Passing the "Barefoot Queen" in the ditch.

After settling in at Osprey Marina learned my brother Paul (yes, another brother) and his wife LeeAnn were at their condo in Garden City for the weekend. Made plans to meet up with them at Murrells Inlet on Sat. for a walk around the marsh walk to view the Christmas decorations and then grab some dinner at the Dirty Dog restaurant while watching the ACC Championship football game between Clemson and UNC.  Fun game for Martha and me as Clemson finally made a QB change and got things going to easily defeat UNC.  Not quite as much fun for Paul and LeeAnn.  Always great to see family!!

John, Martha, LeeAnn and Paul showing our team colors

We had an interesting follow-up a few days after docking at Osprey Marina.  Boating friends sent Martha a link to a video on Facebook (I still refuse to subscribe - scourge of the earth!) of our boat heading down the Waccamaw River to Socastee.  Apparently, there's a guy who films passing boats and posts them on his Facebook page - Show Us Your Boat.  Great video but I'm not tech savvy enough to figure out how to post it here. Martha managed to grab a screenshot. 

Picture from Show Us Your Boat on Facebook.
Growing that ICW moustache on the bow!

Journey for Dec 2
Final trip of 2022

Dec 1, 2022 St. James Plantation Marina - Southport, NC

 Thurs 12/1  St. James Marina - Southport, NC  70 miles

We had a bit of an uneasy extra day and night at Mile Hammock.   Only one boat left in the morning - the rest stayed at anchor with us.   Winds would be swapping direction all day and night and gusts were expected up to 35 along with some bands of rain. While the anchorage is protected enough that no choppy waves develop it is still fairly unprotected from winds - especially anything with a westerly orientation.  As can be seen on the screenshots from our anchoring apps, we spun hitting every compass heading during our stay.  We may have even dragged anchor a bit. We never got outside our anchoring safety radius which was good.  Unfortunately, a catamaran anchored nearby did break free at the absolute worst time with high winds and driving rain.  Owner got drenched but managed to get the boat reset about the time the squall passed. Thankfully it was during the day and not the middle of the night.  Felt terrible for him but glad it was not us!  

Navionics plot above - AquaMaps anchor alarm below

As the day wore on the rainy weather started breaking, although the winds continued.  That gave our marine friends an opening for more maneuvers.   Frogmen back in the water training with  undewater scooters.   Then the aerial assault started with touch and go landings again.   At least today the aircraft of choice were much quieter helicopters.

Marine chopper in the afternoon sun

 Wed. AM we were raising anchor early at 6:45. Bit of a NE breeze blowing but we would be in protected waters most of the day with the exception of coming down the Cape Fear River. The wind there would be at our stern so a non-issue.  We had 2 bridges of concern. Figure 8 Island Swing Bridge which only opens on the hour and half hour and then the Wrightsville Beach Bridge which only opens on the hour.   Our plan was getting to Figure 8 at 10:30 and then scoot the 5 miles to Wrightsville for the 11 AM opening.  Not much traffic on the waterway although we did get hailed for a slow pass by Huntress, a large sportfisher who had been following us. He took off after passing us showing a speed over 20mph on AIS which I though odd.  He would still be too late for the 9:30 Figure 8 opening so wouldn't be able to make the 10 AM Wrightsville opening.  We meandered along at our 10mph pace to the Figure 8 bridge arriving at 10:20 and were able to proceed unencumbered after lowering our VHF antenna due to the extra clearance from a low tide.  Found out from Martha several days later she had a little mishap while tending to the antenna.  Glad this boat has wide walkarounds and stout railings or I would have been performing a man overboard maneuver.  Approaching Wrightsville, we could see Huntress idling nervously in front of the bridge. We went through the 11 AM opening together recalling that old story about the tortoise and the hare.

We had hoped to see my brother Pete as we passed Carolina Beach where he has a house.  Timing just didn't work out. Several days later my brother Bill told me he had also been in town that day and could have watched us as we went under the Snows Cut Bridge.   Martha took a turn at the wheel for some of the "fun" driving today.  Took us through the narrow and twisting Snows Cut with a strong current pushing us hard from behind.    Then out into the Cape Fear River where a 2+ knot incoming current slowed our progress making for a tense passing of a fast-moving incoming tanker. Finally, back on the ICW and passing Southport which is our normal stopping point.   We had decided this would be a little longer travel day to insure arrival at Osprey Marina on Thurs. by midafternoon.   So, on we pressed for a few more miles and into St James Marina for the night.   A simple sign on the ICW and a narrow easily missed entrance channel leads into the marina. It's part of a private larger development but also accepts transients. Very protected, nice folks, restaurant on site, decent rates, clean restrooms.  Took on 120 gallons of diesel just so tanks would be about 2/3 full.  Not the best price but certainly better than most.  Dinner on board to keep cleaning out the fridge and then early to bed.

Dockmate at St. James Marina decorated for Christmas

Journey for Dec 1

Nov 30, 2022 Beaufort, NC and Mile Hammock Bay

 Mon. Nov. 28   Beaufort, NC  42 miles

Beautiful weather set in for a couple days of early winter cruising.   We finally got off the dock at 8:45 Monday morning and jostled about for a few minutes waiting on the New Bern bridge's 9 AM opening.  Sunny and 60 made for a fine start down the Neuse River.   Despite a steady 10mph wind it was at least at our stern, so the net effect was it felt like no wind.  Boat started right up and ran flawlessly despite sitting idle for 3 weeks.  

Heading out the New Bern Bridge - which the bridgetender
was quick to remind me was called the Alfred Cunningham Bridge

While a nice day to be out boating it was a rather uneventful day.   The Neuse River is wide and open with little to see as was the transit through Adams Cut.  Then a bit more open water and we entered the side entrance to Beaufort passing Homer Smith marina on the north end of town before working our way to the anchorage across from the town docks.   We arrived a bit past 2 and the field was already full of sailboats.  We circled around before finally settling on a spot and dropped the hook. By nightfall there were easily 25-30 boats at anchor but just one powerboat - us!!  Finished up the last of the Thanksgiving leftovers and some homemade Leek and Cauliflower soup for dinner.  The wind died off and the only movement of the boat was swinging as the tide came and went. 

Twilight arrives at our anchorage

Beaufort holiday lights 

Journey for Nov 28
NEBO update has some bugs to fix

 Tues Nov 29  Mile Hammock Bay 39 miles

7AM start was a bit chilly requiring layers and a toboggan for warmth.  The cool morning was due to a change in wind direction from the NE which picked up over the day but stayed nice and sunny. We wound our way out from Beaufort and past Morehead City before the winds picked up but by then we were in the protected waters of Bogue Sound.  Passed a few sailboats who had left even earlier than us.   Then wound our way past Swansboro and the dangerous shoaling that develops there as evidenced by a a large motoryacht heeled over in the mud. 

Stuck until at least the next king tide

Highlight of the day came next as a big pod of dolphins decided to play in our wake.  Several of them lined up on each side playing, surfacing and jumping in our side wake.  Even better, they stayed with us for an extended time. At times swimming along on their sides near the surface and clearly looking up at us.  

We could watch dolphins playing beside the boat all day and never get tired of them

 

Next up was a successful navigation around a series of dredges working to clear the constant shoal that develops around Browns Inlet.  Ever since my unfortunate grounding years ago while navigating past a dredge, they always make me nervous. No issues today thankfully!  Our timing was perfect for the 11:30 opening of the Onslow Beach Swing Bridge which meant we were nearing our destination.  

Dredge hogging the channel but clearing a bad shoal

Onslow Beach Swing Bridge - the slowest opening swing bridge on the ICW

Mile Hammock Bay is a routine anchoring stop for us when traveling the ICW and always a favorite.  It's on Camp Lejeune property so no leaving the boat and touching their grounds, but there's always something military going on.  As we approached, we got the percussions from some explosives being detonated in the distance.  Once we were anchored (first ones here) we saw a military issue black inflatable moving around and then realized they were following swimmers in wetsuits.  Several teams went through this training. Unfortunately, we couldn't convince them to do a quick bottom cleaning for us!!   Final fun was watching multiple touch and go landings of an Osprey tilt-rotor aircraft.  Pilot got lots of practice with non-stop landing. First coming in from the NW and then from the SE.  

Marines - by land, sea and air

Nice evening to fire up the grill.  Steak, asparagus and a nuked sweet potato.  Osprey landing got a bit tiresome after dark with them finally finishing close to 10PM!!   Nasty weather coming in overnight.  Rain and stronger winds so we plan on spending Wed just anchored here and relaxing.  

Nice sunset in Mile Hammock Bay to end the day

Journey for Nov 29

Wed, Nov 30 - Apparently, Tues. is Osprey practice landing day and Wed is helicopter day.  Same routine in between rain showers.  Even have the frogmen out in the water again. 

Marine Corp Camp Lejeune training in action.
Frogmen in the water, choppers in the air and gunfire on the land!!

Nov. 27, 2022 A Month in New Bern

 Nov 27  New Bern, NC

Synopsis - We arrived in New Bern with plans for a 2 week stay.  The New Bern Grande Marina has some fantastic rates which decrease significantly the longer you stay.  We signed up for 2 weeks and lined up a rental car with plans to head home to vote, check on the house, winterize the water lines to the dock, and do some fall leaf blowing we knew would be overdue.   That planned one week trip turned into 10 days until we got back which left only a few days to enjoy New Bern. Rather than rush things we signed up for a third week. The rate for the third week was basically the rate we normally pay for an overnight stay at a transient dock!!  That gave us time to reprovision before returning the car, better explore the town and take in the tourist activities.  It also meant leaving the Friday after Thanksgiving. Weather forecast was looking less than ideal for the weekend, so we signed up for a fourth week.  That took us through the weekend and the start of New Bern's holiday festivities. Their tree lighting ceremony on Friday at the waterfront park including all the lights around town. And of course, the opening of Santa's workshop with artificial snow downtown.   Saturday evening included an aerial display over the river with one plane shooting fireworks off the tips of his wings as he looped and spiraled around.  Good stuff!  Today (Sunday) we're bobbing around in our slip despite being protected on both sides by big 60' Hatteras motoryachts.  Small craft warning out on the Neuse and gale force wind warnings down at Beaufort, our next stop.  Winds are supposed to die down overnight and allow us to start traveling toward our destination for Dec and Jan - Osprey Marina just south of Myrtle Beach.

Christmas Tree lighting ceremony on Friday

Four plane aerial acrobatics team

Aerial Acrobatics and pyrotechnic show on Sat

Our little boat bobbing between some Hatteras yachts.

Some history - We have been to New Bern a number of times over the years. Always by car, so arriving by water gave a unique perspective as to why and how its location made it such a good destination for early settlers and why it became NC's first capital.  The town was founded in 1710 by Swiss and Germanic settlers led by Christoph von Graffenried.  He was originally from Bern Switzerland and so the town was named New Bern.  The early Germanic word Bern means bear and so that animal has become the mascot for the town.  In 2010 during the tricentennial roughly 50 fiberglass bears were painted and placed around the city to showcase sponsored businesses.   They continue adding to the collection and the latest count is now 82.  

Lawyer Bear

In front of a government building

 The Governors House - built in 1770 for William Tryon the English Govenor over NC - became known as Tryon Palace after the American Revolution when it was used as NC's first capital building. The original was destroyed by fire in 1798 but was completely recreated from the original plans on the original foundation back in the late 1950's and continues to be a centerpiece of the town and a driver for saving and restoring so many of the historical downtown homes. 

Tryon Palace 

 Lumber, tar, turpentine and ship building were the industries that created the cities early wealth and expansion.   During the civil war the town was quickly captured by Union Forces and served as headquarters and hospitals for them.  This saved it from the burning and sacking so many other cities experienced.   The city is currently commemorating the 100-year anniversary of the great fire of 1922.  It started at a lumber mill on the waterfront. The volunteer fire dept had limited manpower as many of their men were out of town watching the local high school football team play in the state championship game (they won).  Shortly afterwards an unrelated fire broke out in a residential section of town to the NW.  By the time several firemen arrived at the second fire there were already 3 houses burning.  High winds were blowing and carrying embers from one cedar shingled roof to the next as well as spreading the waterfront fire to an adjacent lumbermill.   Several TONS of dynamite were used to blow up houses and create a firewall to stop the fire from reaching downtown.  By the time the winds died and the fire was contained it had consumed over 40 square blocks of houses and businesses leaving 3500 citizens homeless.  In 1928 a new fire house was built for the competing volunteer fire companies.  The building was physically partitioned down the middle with identical layouts on both sides.  Left side was for the Button Company (formed by Union soldiers during their occupation) and on the right side was the towns original firefighting volunteers - The Atlantic Company.  This system of two separate and competing volunteer organizations lasted into the late 1990's when the town finally established a paid fulltime firefighter organization.

The old New Bern Firehouse - now a museum

Our connection - on our first visit to New Bern back in the early 90's we were considering job changes and relocating back south from PA.  I've always been interested in architecture and historical buildings and so we were driving around looking at houses for sale.   We came across a large Italianate house for sale.  Unique architecture and the only one of that style in town.  It was a block off the riverfront and had been converted into several apartments.  Price was decent and while nothing ever came of our interest and dreams of it, we still go by it whenever in town.  30 years later and it's in better shape now than our first view of it but there is always someone working on it.  I'm sure it must have been the inspiration for the movie "The Money Pit".  Sometimes it may be better not to act on your impulses.

Our "almost" house on Front Street

Thanksgiving - Our neighbors on the dock with their big Hatteras's are liveaboards who own their slips.  When Jim and Betty on Our Adjustment found out we would be staying here for Thanksgiving they graciously insisted we join them and Betty's visiting sister Mary for dinner.  They are also the ones who told us about the holiday activities on Fri and Sat and encouraged us to stay for them.  The meal was much better than what we had planned for ourselves, but also involved eating way too much with all the extra selections.  Boaters everywhere we go are a welcoming and generous group.  This was just another example.

A fun Thanksgiving dinner with Jim and Betty 

And Bailey and Marley too!!

Another perfect end to the day with a sunset over the marina

Nov. 5, 2022 Two Long Travel Days

 Nov. 3  Day 1 - Edenton to Belhaven  100 miles

We are on a schedule.  First time in a while, but we have reservations at New Bern Grand Marina starting on Friday Nov. 4.  We've also got reservations for a rental car there and will travel home for a week.  We'll take care of voting, check on the house, do some leaf removal chores, winterize the water system to the dock and other fun tasks.  Then head back to New Bern for a few days to play tourist. We built in a few extra potential weather days just in case.  

Up well before the sun to get ready for the longest of two travel days.   Not a cold morning but not warm either so we'll be running from inside.  Breakfast done. Engine checks done. Navigation programs set. Power cord retrieved.  We start the engines at first light.  Cast off the lines and Martha eases As You Wish off the dock using the shifters and bow thruster to walk us sideways, then backs us clear of the dock, does a 180-degree pirouette in the small harbor and heads us out the breakwater.   I'm telling you - she wants my job!!

RE Mayo Seafood  on the Pungo Alligator Canal

Traveling the length of the Albemarle eastward we have the waters all to ourselves.  Thankfully it's a bit overcast so the rising sun isn't blinding.  The light NE breeze generates a minor chop but overall our passages on the Albemarle have been mostly tranquil.   As we approach the Alligator River the chartplotter lights up with AIS signals as we catch up to the flotilla of snowbirds headed down the AICW proper.  Mostly sailboats all moving much slower than us.  We pass a few headed toward the Alligator River swing bridge but then get stacked up as the bridgetender needs to clear bridge traffic from his previous opening and wants all the boats in this group to go through at once.  Not a long wait but we jockey around for position and once the bridge opens all the sailboats head for the right side bridge opening.  We head for the left side since there's no upbound traffic.   This move lets us jump ahead of all the sailboats and eliminates the need for a succession of slow passes.  I'm sure this faux pas in bridge transit opening  got us a few comments by the sailors but - c'est la vie!!

Down the balance of the Alligator River then traverse the 22 mile long Alligator-Pungo Canal.  Finally out onto the Pungo River and within an hour we're through the entrance breakwater to the Pantego Creek, past Belhaven and dropping the hook alongside a slew of sailboats with an hour of daylight to spare.   We are definitely in the thick of the southward boating migration but are finding it much more enjoyable running a slightly faster pace than our old boat.  Dinner, a little TV and then bedtime comes early as we prep for another early departure. 

Journey for Nov 3

Nov 4  Day 2  Belhaven to New Bern.  72 miles.  

Weather forecast is calling for a bit of everything.  Nice sunny start to the day.  Easterly breeze around 8-9 kts.  Warming into the lower 70's.  But then showing a good chance of rain showers as we approach New Bern and docking around 2-3 PM.   There is a bascule bridge entering New Bern we'll need to go through that only opens on the hour or half hour and we're shooting for the 2:30 opening.   Again, up before daylight with anchor up at 7:15 and out the breakwater by 7:30. Mostly uneventful other than passing a few sailboats.  Down the Pungo, across the Pamlico River, through Goose Creek, out into the Pamlico Sound and up the Nease River.  

Leaving the Belhaven breakwater as the sun rises

We had been shadowing the Hatteras motoryacht  Southern Snow coming onto the Nuese and when he didn't turn to port to follow the ICW route into Adams Cut we knew he was also headed to New Bern.   Running identical speed as us and staying right off our port side.   There's a defined channel ensuring deep water about 6 miles outside New Bern and I knew at some point I needed to run the engines up to higher rpm's to blow them out after 2 days of slow traveling.  So, I bumped the rpm's up to get clearly ahead of him and then after exiting the channel opened her up and trimmed her out. Good to see we still get WOT at 2900 rpm and speed of 23.5 mph.  Same as with a freshly cleaned and painted bottom. 

Neuse River ferry to starboard as we plan our pass around Southern Snow

Of course, as we're approaching New Bern the skies are getting darker and we can see areas of rainfall ahead.  Buttoned down everything on the flybridge and figured for sure we would be docking in a mess. Unbelievably, the rain passed, the wind died down and we saw multiple rainbows and a possible water spout while waiting for the 2:30 bridge opening.  

Rain on the right, sun on the left, rainbow joining them

Waterspout trying to form??  Thankfully, it didn't.

Stern in docking between a couple of 60+' Hatteras motoyachts went fairly well.  The limited visibility from the pilothouse when stern in docking isn't my favorite activity - much prefer doing that from the flybridge. Anyway, never hit anything so all is good.   Been several years since we last visited New Bern, but this is our first time by boat. The marina has a great weekly rate - even better for 2 weeks, but overall experience has been mixed. No staff to help tie up but thankfully great neighbors who were all hands on deck for us.  Got a pumpout and was flabbergasted when a $40 invoice arrived for it - double the highest we've ever paid!!  

Journey for Nov 4