Tuesday Sept 23, 2025 Bumpy Ride to Mystic Seaport Museum

 Tues - Wed. Sept. 23-24, 2025  Silvershell Beach to Mystic Seaport Museum 78 miles and 8 hours

Tuesday:  Not an ideal forecast for today's trip, but it wasn't going to improve for a few days so we bit the bullet and headed out.  It was so nice to pull up an anchor that had set in a sandy bottom instead of mud. Everything just comes up clean and hardly even requires a washdown.   Makes our departures time so much faster than pulling up 2' of chain at a time and hosing all the sticky mud off.  Then pulling up another 2' and repeat until all 75-100' of chain is in the locker.   So that was a positive to start the day.  Between Buzzards Bay and Mystic River is a stretch of open water with a long fetch of open Atlantic Ocean.  

Open stretches of Buzzards Bay generate constant winds.
No surprise they are installing wind turbines. 

This open stretch builds bigger waves, and the forecast was 4' SE swells with a decent period topped with a SW 2' wave on a short period.   Winds are SW 10-15 with gusts to 25. Normally a no-go day for us.  Would not be a pleasure cruise.  Just a nasty day of boating.  Up one wave, down the next, big splashes and wind driven water constantly covering the windshield.  Boat handles it fine. Took us until the next day to finally get rid of the wobbles and walk straight.

Summer cottage along the shore 

This is one massive rip rap project - assume if you can afford the house,
you can afford all that rock

Watch  Lighthouse

Morgan Point Lighthouse approaching Mystic

Things did settle down as we approached Mystic and got some protection from Fishers Island. Coming into Mystic is a sight.  The river channel winds around a bit so following the channel markers is critical.   Finding the markers amidst all the moored boats is the hard part. On approach it seems the entire area is one solid mass of marinas, moorings and boats. And it goes on and on through a no wake zone. To get to the museum we need to pass through a railroad swing bridge - normally open unless a train is coming. Then a bascule road bridge that only opens once an hour at 40 minutes past the hour.  We had been timing our arrival and even ran for about an hour at cruising speed to stay on time. 

Railroad Bridge was open on approach but we hailed the operator
 to advise we would be passing -got short gruff reply

Female operator at the Highway lift bridge was much more friendly.

Tourists out watching boats pass through the bridge

 Mystic Seaport Museum also has docks where you can stay.  A bit pricey but it includes admission to the museum and also allows you to walk around the exhibits after hours when the tourists are finally gone.  Got docked by 3PM which left time to give the boat a much-needed rinse to remove all that saltiness.  Quick walk around the grounds and then downtown Mystic for dinner and some ice cream.  Not sure how crazy this place is during the summer but plenty of tourists still walking around this night.  

Journey for Sept. 23, 2025

Wednesday: I remember coming to Mystic Seaport as a kid when we lived in NY.   It was an outing with our cub scout troop to show you how long ago it was.   The museum was founded back in 1929 and is considered the premier location for authentic refurbishment of historical wooden ships.  The museum has a collection of historic buildings set up as a town street showcasing the various trades required to support the shipyards. 

Main Street in Mystic Village - each business a unique museum
 showcasing the businesses required to support the shipbuilding business

The cooperage - making barrels for storing water, whale oil, foods, etc. aboard ship

The Shipsmith shop for nails, hoops, hooks, harpoons, etc.

Once a whale was spotted a crew of 3 would row these boats out, harpoon it,
get the ride of their life until the whale was exhausted, do a final kill,
wrap a rope around the tail and tow the beast back to the ship for processing.

Along with the museums which are very fascinating they have a group of craftsmen who maintain a true old fashioned shipyard and use as many traditional hand tools as possible. Currently working on several vessels. The largest is a $4 million multi-year full restoration of the Susan Constant for the Jamestown Settlement.  Very interesting in that you can tour inside the boat to see the work being performed. 

The Susan Constant up on blocks for restoration

New keel attached. Now working on ribs, then the planking, then the deck

Red ribs are replacements.  Many more to go.  Question often asked -
If you replace the keel, ribs, planks, decks and mast -
Is it a refurbishment or a new construction??

Much of the museum is focused on the local shipbuilding trades which was primarily whaling ships.  Their featured ship is the Charles M. Morgan which is the last remaining whaling ship.  Learned a lot about whaling I never knew.  Such as a typical whaling voyage lasted 2-1/2 to 5 years with the ship often times traveling the world and not returning until it had filled it's hold with barrels of whale oil.  Typically required killing at least 50-60 whales.  Blubber was cut off and boiled down right there and then on the ship, then placed in casks in the hold. It's estimated from her logs books that the Morgan killed roughly 1200 whales during her days at sea. She was part of a fleet of 2500 whaling ships.  Do the math and its amazing there are any whales still remaining.   

Selfie station in front of the Charles M. Morgan

Typical crew was 36 men.  All paid at end of the trip with a percentage
 of profits based on their position.  Hard work and crowded conditions. 

Growing up on Long Island I always knew the area was a whaling center.  Just never realized how few whales were found here.  It was simply the shipyards and home ports for many whaling vessels. 

The wood carving shop - they hold classes to teach you this skill or many others

A collection of ships figureheads - amazingly diverse

Classic figurehead of a women that was on a large private yacht in the picture

Overall, a fun educational day and worth the extra day spent here. Could certainly spend several days here fully exploring all they have to offer. 

September 22, 2025 Through the Cape Cod Canal

 Monday Sept. 22, 2025  Boston to Buzzards Bay Silvershell Anchorage 73 miles and 7.3 hours

Been watching the super extended forecast on my weather apps.  Getting nervous about possible hurricane activity picking up again after a slow summer.  Looks like potential for 2-3 storms to develop one after the other.  It would essentially shut down the possibility of our required offshore transit around New Jersey.  So, we'll start heading south a little faster than our original plan and necessitate skipping a few places. Today was just a day to start that move south.  Early morning departure trying to time the current through the Cape Cod Canal. This canal saves the 100+ mile trip around Cape Cod but due to tidal time differences at each entrance, it can have significant currents. Decent day running offshore down the Massachusetts coast.   Pretty calm conditions, sunny, light breeze.  Not too many lobster traps but the ones out there are scattered around, so no time to be lazy.  Still needed to keep a sharp lookout.  The shore is lined with beach houses making a marked difference from the rugged natural coast of Maine with its scattering of homes. Still plenty of lighthouses. 

Boston Light

Minots Light

Scituate Lighthouse

Not a lighthouse.   I thought it was maybe an old WWII submarine lookout tower. 
 It's actually an old tower built in the 1940's but it was used as a fire observation tower

Race Point Lighthouse (?)

Cuttyhunk Light Oil House (?)

Timed our arrival at the eastern canal entrance perfectly.  We had a strong 3 mph push through the entire 10 mile length.  Speed limit is 10 mph and even in idle we were oftentimes going a little faster.   Exiting the canal onto Buzzards Bay can be very unnerving if there is a strong SW wind against the outgoing flow.  Can build big 4-5' standing waves.  Our light SW breeze today resulted in some confused swirling waters but no real waves or issues. 

Heading through the canal.

Two bridges over the canal.  First is fixed so easy passage. 
 Second is a railroad lift that was at least up so no issues getting through.

A turn to starboard a few miles down the bay and up towards the town of Marion.   Found an anchorage with positive reviews off Silvershell Beach.  Dropped the hook for a nice peaceful night.  Watched the local sailing club Junior Regatta, then a nice sunset after dinner to finish the day.

Not sure if it was inexperienced skippers or delicate boats but we saw a couple
come within inches of flipping when tacking

Sunset over Silvershell Beach

Journey for Sept. 22, 2025

September 19-21, 2025 Boston

Thursday - Sunday  Sept 18-21, 2025    Tourists in Boston, Mass.

Thursday: After our midafternoon arrival on Thursday, we walked down to see the USS Constitution, as it's the closest item on the Freedom Trail to us.  Too late in the day to do the tour but we wanted to get a feel for the ship, the museum and the old Navy Yard.

USS Constitution - ie "Old Ironsides"

Dry Dock #1 completed in 1833 was the first US naval drydock. 

Friday:  Took the hop on hop off bus which basically follows the 2.5 miles route of the Freedom Trail.  Boston has done a great job with placing a brick path to follow that takes you from one historic site to the next.  Faneuil Market, Quincy Market, Old South Meeting house, Boston Massacre Site, State House, Boston Common, Old Granary Cemetery, Kings Chapel Cemetary, Boston Tea Party Ship, Paul Revere house, Little Italy, Old North Church, and Copps Hill Burial Ground. Then dinner at La Famiglia Giorgios. Obscenely huge portions. 

Faneuil Hall Marketplace -a gift to the city of Boston in 1742 from Peter Faneuil.
Often called the "Cradle of Liberty" due to the many pro-liberty speeches given here
 in the 2nd floor meeting room in the months leading up to the Revolution

Town Hall meeting room on 2nd floor of Faneuil Hall. 
Passionate discussions are still held there today

Quincy Marketplace

The underside of the gold dome atop the Quincy Market Building

Massachusetts State House

Tomb of Paul Revere

Tomb of John Hancock - a big monument for a big signature

Boston Tea Party Ship - you even get to throw a chest of tea overboard

Paul Revere's house

The Old North Church - made famous by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow's poem
 the "Ride of Paul Revere" and the line "One if by land and two if by sea"

Saturday:  Haymarket Square has a huge farmers market every Friday and Saturday.   Produce, meats and seafood at crazy low prices.  Pastry from Little Italy for breakfast, then John to Bunker Hill Monument to climb the steps to the top while Martha was off to the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum.  Dinner at Ducali with Patrick and Leila from Grand Life, another boating couple in the process of completing the Down East Circle Loop.

Haymarket Square produce vendors - super cheap prices

Plenty of proteins too- seafood, beef, chicken, lamb, goat. Lobster tails 3 for $20

Vendors on both sides of several streets. Found a vendor selling bags of Japanese
eggplant for just $2.   Should have bought one - makes the best ratatouille

Awesome 1800's architecture all around Little Italy

Awesome pastries at Bova  - very tough to decide which ones to get.

No trip to Boston is complete without a trip to Mike's Pastry.

Bunker Hill monument

Climbed all 294 steps to the top. Paid for it with 2 more days of sore thighs

View of Boston and As You Wish from the observation portholes

Gardens inside the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum courtyard/atrium

Isabella and her husband both came from families of great wealth. They collected art
              knowing that eventually they wanted to build a museum.  After Isabella was widowed,
               she fulfilled that dream and with no heirs, she gifted it to the city of Boston

Art is everywhere - floor to ceiling

Every nook

and every cranny is filled with art and her belongings

An extensive amount of religious art and artifacts

No tags showing the artists name, interpretations or significance

She just wanted the viewer to look, enjoy and appreciate

Per her will it all had to remain just as she lived with it and wanted it presented

Sunday:  Restful morning waiting for Rich and Lynn, our neighbors down in Richmond Hill, who have a summer cottage up here in Connecticut.  Brunch with them at Blackmoor Bar and Kitchen.  Toured our boat and visited to catch up with people and activity at home.  Finished the day relaxing by watching a Jaguars game and the F1 race we had recorded on the TV.

A great way to finish off our trip to Boston.
Brunch with our Richmond Hill neighbors Rich and Lynn