August 23-24, 2024. End of the Rideau Canal - Lower Brewers Lock and Kingston

Friday August 23, 2024  Jones Falls to Lower Brewers Lock  16 miles and 3 hours. 

It is a glorious clear sunny morning to start the day.  Temps are expected to get into ideal mid 70's. 

It's a special day when you wake up to mornings like this

We're looking forward to taking a detour into Morton Bay.  Numerous boaters have told us it's worth a visit - tight entrance, then a nice opening to anchor but also a nice passage up and back the bay with tall cliffs on both sides.  Weekends it's busy with locals boating and kids cliff jumping.  Biggest drawback is a very dense growth of weeds anywhere anchorable.  Tales of pulling up anchors with weed balls a yard in diameter are common.  The entrance is scarily narrow and twisty.  Cliff on one side, rock outcropping on the other.  It is quite scenic but with the sun still low in the sky we know we aren't getting the full effect as sun isn't shining on the more predominant cliffs on our starboard side.  Worth the side trip but not going to spend 1/2-hour cleaning off the anchor, so we head back out and down Whitefish Lake.

Narrow entrance to Morton Bay has this cliff on one side

And this rock outcropping on the other side

Cliffs in the morning shade don't do them justice

View looking down Morton Bay

The swing bridge at Brass Point opens as we arrive. Our timing is perfect as he's really opening for two upbound boats. We're thankful as the two phone numbers we have for the bridge tender are both "out of service". 

Heading through the swing bridge at Brass Point

We cross Cranberry Lake and leave lake country and enter the Cataraqui River which will take us down to Kingston. It's all narrow, shallow, and twisty.  The flight of two Upper Brewer locks are almost done bringing a small powerboat up as we approach so we simply idle rather than tie up.  We head in and descend alone. More narrow winding river travel gets us to the Lower Brewers Lock.  The lock staff is waiting for us and open the swing bridge at the entrance to the lock as we approach.  Easy lockage down 14'.   Beautiful grassy park area below the lock with power.  They tell us to pull all the way to the end for deepest water and to keep the blue line clear.  

The clear waters of the lake region turn a bit swampy looking on the Cataraqui River section.

We have the wall and park all to ourselves at Lower Brewers Lock

Boat traffic is minimal all day compared to the activity we left behind.  We walk over to the apple orchard but have no luck getting apples or one of their famous apple pies since Pick your Own doesn't start until Sept 2!  Interesting art studio across the bridge with sculptures and jewelry on the site of an old grist mill. We're the only boaters here overnight

Journey for August 23, 2024

Saturday August 24, 2024  Lower Brewers Lock to Kingston  16 miles and 3.9 hours

End of the Rideau Canal trip today as we head for Kingston and the final set of locks.   We had been waiting on a slip confirmation at Confederation Basin in Kingston.  Finally got the OK from them around 10AM for Sat, Sun and Mon.  About that time we see a boat being lowered in the lock.  It's the 40' Greenline we locked with the previous day.  Decide we need to get in line behind them to lock through the 4 locks at Kingston Mills.  If we miss it we could be waiting hours until the locks get cleared and we can proceed down.  Definitely out of lake country.  No more deep clear water.  This is shallow green swampy water.  Even when it looks like you've hit wide open water there's a narrow marked channel that usually has 3' or less under the keel. This whole area was swamp lands during the canal construction and had some of the highest mortality rates of workers - some from injuries but mostly from malaria.  We make it to the flight of four final locks at Kingston Mills and tie to the blue line.  Lockmaster tells us at least 1/2 hour wait as he's bringing up some kayakers.  

Tied to the blue line at Kingston Mills Lock wall.
40' Greenline ahead of us uses an interesting electric hybrid propulsion system.

The defensible lockmasters house at Kingston Mills. 
The small horizontal window on the second floor are the original gun ports. 
Small ones on first floor each side of the door.

Gives me time to check out the lock station.  First lock includes a swing bridge and empties into a "pond".  Then a set of 3 flight locks. These are the infinity pool type with virtually no wall for tying up against when entering. We're joined by a 25' cruiser - all headed to Kingston.  We all make it down to Lake Ontario level without incident despite some gusting SW breezes.  A few more miles of slow cruising and we make it to the site of the causeway and old Bascule Bridge.  The historic bridge buckled earlier this spring and was stuck in the down position almost forcing us to cancel this trip. The Canadian government after much deliberation finally determined that saving the historic bridge was simply unfeasible and had it removed providing us a free opening to transit until a new bridge is designed, built and installed. Winds are gusting over 20mph as we make our approach to Confederation Basin Marina.

Fort Henry guarding the entrance to Kingston and the Rideau canal from those pesky Americans

 We're thankful for the side tie and the 5 staff on hand to greet us as we turn sideways into the wind as a final maneuver and land against the dock. We make it look easy and they quickly have us tied up and then disappear to the next incoming boat.  This is our third trip to Kingston.  A lovely old town with lots to do. We'll make the most of our three days here before crossing Lake Ontario and entering the US.

A final note regarding Colonel By: The lake leading down to Kingston Mills is Col By Lake. There is even a section called Esther March Bay after his wife who accompanied him from England with their two daughters.  After completing a canal which still operates almost exactly as he planned and built some 200 years later, he returned to London where charges of unauthorized expenditures were levied against him.  The charges were false, and he was exonerated but the damage was done to his reputation.  He was forced to retire without any commendations for his work.  He died shortly afterwards in 1836 at age 57.

Journey for August 24, 2024

August 20-22, 2024. Chaffeys Lock and Jones Falls Lock

 Tuesday August 20, 2024  Col. By Island to Chaffeys Lock  16 miles and 3.25 hours

Worst of the wind is over.  Still gusts into the 20's, cloudy and cool with occasional rain showers. But we're ready to get moving.  Dropping the lines off the mooring ball is a breeze compared to our acrobatics getting the lines attached. Several locks today.  We finish crossing Big Rideau Lake and cut through The Narrows Lock 31.  This puts us up onto Upper Rideau Lake and the highest elevation we'll reach - 420' above sea level.  All locks now will be taking us down. 

Some nice open water deep passages today - just mind the islands.

Leaving the Narrows lock and swing bridge - just a 2' elevation change

Working our way around a few of the narrow man-made cuts

We cross this lake and then down Newboro lock 32.  We now have to get accustomed to the change in the navigation aids.  Red markers are on the port side instead of the starboard. Critical we get used to this as there are numerous narrow channels ahead and we're still on the Canadian Shield with its hard stone bottom - not a place you want to run aground.  Pass through Newboro Lake, Clear Lake and onto Indian Lake (can you tell why this is called lake country). We stop at Indian Lake Marina for a $56 pump out!  Family owned and a very nice couple run it and a small campground.  Feel better about the price after talking with them awhile and getting some Kawartha's ice cream at their store.  Just a bit further and we make it to Chaffeys lock.  It is crowded but we arrive early enough to still find a spot available for us on the wall before the lock.  

Tucked into our spot on the wall at Chaffeys lock

Spend the rest of the day exploring the lock and park, the museum housed in the old defensible lockhouse, visit the old town cemetery containing bodies of the town founders and numerous Irish canal workers who perished from malaria during the construction here.

Making the most of our time at Chaffeys - inspecting the lock

Irish canal workers who died of malaria buried with just a simple stone marker

Another defensible block house turned into a lockkeepers house then turned into a museum

Old gristmill now a private residence.  Interestingly, the water wheel is positioned
 horizontally under the house to enable year-round usage

 Dinner at the restored Opinicon Lodge.   This area was known for its fishing lodges and cabins during the steamboat tourist era. This lodge has been restored by the Canadian couple who created the Shopify app. The resort includes a small shop with homemade ice cream - so a double dose for me today!  Rainy weather and a full load of boats at the lock so we opt to spend a second day here hooked to power.  

Scenic pathway from marina up to The Opinicon Lodge

Main entrance with restaurant on the right, pub on left and
ice cream and pizza shop in a separate building off to the far left

I cannot lie - their homemade ice cream was very good.

Journey for August 20, 2024
Lake Country

Thursday August 22, 2024  Chaffeys Lock to Jones Falls Lock 7 miles and 2.5 hours

We had planned to jump on the blue line first thing to insure we got through on the first passage.  Locks open at 9 so we figured heading over at 8 would be fine. But a 40' Greenline headed over at 7:15. With the docks full we weren't sure how many boats would try to get in, so we fired the engines and lined up right behind them.  A houseboat settled in behind us.  As we were waiting a 55' Navigator came tooling down the channel hoping for that first opening too.  Lockmaster thought he could get all 4 of us in - I doubted it but we tried.  He had the Greenline go in first, starboard tie all the way in, then the houseboat in 2nd with a port tie up front.  Then us trying to squeeze in behind the Greenline.  Our anchor was touching his dingy davits and our swim platform against the gate outcrop.  No way would it work for us and the lockmaster agreed.  Navigator had to wait, and we got moved to the port side behind the houseboat. Got through fine and just a few miles to Davis Lock where the Greenline headed to the dock and tied up.  Gates were open so the houseboat and us went through easily.   

Another scenic cruising day

Loons are not uncommon up in the lake region. 
You hear them calling mostly at night

Not much further and we got to Jones Falls. This is a flight of 3 down locks.  We call them infinity pools.   When pulling in there is virtually no wall - barely a curb several inches high - and water is cascading over the gates in front of you.  When entering the lock you hand each line to the lock staff who bend down and wrap it around a cable and give the lose end back to you.  They are good at it and helpful but it's still nerve-racking waiting to see if the fenders will stay in place with such a small clearance. Then even more nerve-wracking to see water spilling down at you over the tops of the gates. 

Looking down the flight of 3 locks at Jones Falls

An unusual sight seeing water cascading over the top of the lock gates

We make it to the bottom and get permission to tie up for the night at the end of the blue line. We climb up to watch the locking process as several more boats come through, tour the rather large park area, visit the falls and check out the dam. One of the marvels of the canal construction it is 65' high and 350' across made from quarried stones hauled from 10 miles away then hand chiseled into uniform blocks and stacked without mechanical help.  At the time of construction in 1832 it was the largest stone arch dam in North America.  

Looking down the weir raceway and "falls" at Jones Falls.

The Jones Falls arch dam - still holding back water after 200 years

The Hotel Kenney is across a pedestrian bridge from the locks.  Built in 1888 as a fishing lodge it's being slowly restored. Owners obviously don't have the deep pockets of the Opinicon Hotel owners, but they're making a go of it.  Restaurant and pub are open for lunch and dinner so we opt to support the local economy with another dinner out. We had heard mixed reviews on the food/service, but both were fine for us.  Good sleeping weather with lows dipping into the upper 50's. 

Looking down at As You Wish and the Hotel Kenney from atop the locks

View from the lawn of the Hotel Kenney of As You Wish and the flight of 3 locks at Jones Fall

Swimmers beware!  Fish here are aggressive and will nibble
 on exposed freckles, moles, nipples, etc. 
Three crushed Cheerios instantly brought this group to the surface 

Journey for August 22, 2024

August 17-18, 2024 Onto the Upper Lakes Region Noble Bay Anchorage and Col. By Island mooring ball

Saturday Aug 17, 2024  Poonamalie to Noble Bay Anchorage  13.3 miles and 2.2  hours

When Colonel By was designing the Rideau Canal he utilized the many natural lakes that comprise this area.  It saved him time and money as it provided a mostly unencumbered passageway.  Just a few locks were needed constructed at critical areas connecting lakes. We are looking forward to spending time here in the deep clear cool waters.  Poonamalie lock is basically the entranceway onto the first lake - called the Lower Rideau Lake.  Lower being altitude - not latitude.   We are looking forward to some quiet anchoring and our first stop is Noble Bay.  We arrive early afternoon, drop the hook in 20 feet and play out 125' of chain.  We expect other boats to arrive later but ultimately have the entire cove to ourselves. We plan to stay 2 nights.  Despite a forecast for rain it remains just lightly overcast so I drop the kayak and go exploring.  

Noble Bay shoreline with typical Canadian Shield rocks

As You Wish happily at anchor as viewed from a cove I was exploring in the kayak

It is obvious from the geology that we are into a region of the Canadian Shield.   This is an ancient rock formation that covers half of Canada.  We were introduced to it while doing the Great Loop. Solid rock formations and cliffs on the water's edge with a heavy dose of evergreen tree coverage.  No muddy runoff keeps the water clear and the scent of pine fills the air. It's a beautiful setting and why we enjoy the change of pace in anchoring.  The scenery is simple yet spectacular. It's a shame the day is just too cool to go swimming. No other boaters arrive leaving us feeling quite isolated.  Some rain finally arrives late afternoon and evening.  We're keeping an eye on the forecast as rain is expected to continue.  Monday shows winds shifting to strong northerly and a further drop in temperatures. That complicates things as not many anchorages offer protection from the north.  We set the anchor alarms but with just a light southerly breeze tonight we sleep soundly.

Journey for August 17, 2024

Sunday August 18, 2024  Noble Bay to Col. By Island mooring ball  6.5 miles and 1.25 hours

Weather forecast this morning shows a cloudy day with some passing rain. Big changes for Monday with the wind shifting and gusts are still in play.  We decide to take advantage of today's weather to head for Col. By Island.  First order of business is getting the anchor up and cleared of weeds.  It is a constant battle hauling up 10 feet of chain and clearing the growth off, repeat until we have all 125 feet of chain up.  Then remove the huge weed ball stuck to the anchor. It is a nasty, stinky, slimy, heavy job that takes almost 1/2 hour before we're ready to head out.  

Saying "Adios" to another handful of weeds off the anchor chain

Deep water on the way as we move out of Lower Rideau Lake and onto Big Rideau Lake.  Places here with depths up to 300'.  Open running space gives us a chance to put the engines through their paces. After multiple days of idling at low rpm's and constant engine on/off for locks we take the boat up on plane and blow out the engines and turbos.  Boat runs good and seems to enjoy the run up.  We arrive to Col. By Island and there are boats on several of the mooring balls provided by Parks Canada, but most are open.  These mooring balls present a challenge as there are no pendants - just the ball and a ring on top.  We need to grab the ball at the stern, rope it and walk it to the bow to secure the lines.  Then wrestle it to get a second line attached. Not pretty, but we get it done.  We're secured for the next 2 days and protected from the coming northerly gusts. 

Moonlight over Col By Island during a rare cloud clearing

The island is part of the Parks Canada system with available docks, but reports say racoons are problematic at night getting on boats and breaking in for food.  We decide being out on the moorings is a better decision. The front on Monday brings the anticipated gusts and cool weather - cloudy, damp and high only in the 60's for the next few days. We are mostly sheltered from the worst of the winds so a good decision to settle here.  There's an interesting home falling into disrepair on the island. It's a typical 50's modern home with a long flat roof, lots of glass windows facing the water and huge stone fireplaces. Still somewhat visible but mostly covered by undergrowth now.   It was built by Danny Arnstein who was the owner of Yellow Cabs in NYC and Chicago.  It supposedly has 14' high ceilings to match those of his NYC house. He hosted all sorts of celebrities there during its heyday.  Rumors are he also had mob connections. After his death in the early 60's the home and island went through several owners before finally being acquired by Parks Canada. Shame to see it simply deteriorating. 

Part of Danny Arnstein's  "Wag" lodge visible behind the large maple tree

Journey for August 18, 2024

August 14 - 16, 2024 Smiths Falls and Poonamalie

 Wednesday August 14, 2024  Merrickville to Smiths Falls  13 miles and 5 hours

Smiths Falls is a larger town with all the essential provisioning stops strategically located at about the  mid-point of the Rideau.  It is also the home of Le Boat which is a canal boat chartering company. That makes this lock station and the town very popular but also crowded. Hoping to get a spot, we cast off from Merrickville at 7:30 and travel the short distance to the Kilmarnock Lock and wait on the blue line for the 9 AM first lockage.  We're soon joined by 2 more boats who lock all the way to Smiths Falls with us.  Kilmarnock lock, Edmunds lock, the double locks at Old Slys and then the new lock at Smiths Falls. 

Plenty of wildlife along the way - swans, geese, ducks, etc.

Campers raise their oars and give an Indian war hoop as we pass them headed to Smiths Falls

The new bridge and "modern" lock into Smiths Falls

Smiths Falls originally had a flight of 3 locks (28,29 and 30) and a swing bridge. By the 70's the swing bridge was no longer viable as the area grew.  Decision was made to replace the flight with one modern lock (29A) back in 1974 going up 26'. This allowed for a wider more modern fixed bridge, plus alleviated the congestion caused on the Rideau by the flight locks. The original 3 historic locks still remain and are visible as part of the Parks Canada lock site.  We are lucky again and get the prime spot on the lock wall that allows us to get power from the nearby marina wall.  No dockage fees - just $15/ night for 30 amp power. Our buddy boats line up on the wall behind us. We are set for 2 nights providing time to explore the town, try out a few restaurants and do several provisioning runs. 

The restored Hotel Rideau built in 1901 in the center of downtown. 
Unfortunately, most shopping is now on the other side of the canal in the commercial area.

Colorful plantings line Main St. but the buildings need attention and tenants. 
Hersheys had a factory here that closed and hurt the local economy.

I hit up Walmart and lug back two 2-1/2 gallon jugs of oil. Oil changes are coming up soon!  Then another trip to the grocery store - fresh fruits and veggies, breads, meats, soda, etc.  And a final 3rd trip to the liquor store - we are unacceptably out of red wine.  It's a productive stop but a bit too busy and commercial.  Surprisingly, still no internet available.  We're ready to get moving back into the more natural and quiet areas.

Journey for August 14, 2024

Friday  August 16, 2024.  Smiths Falls to Poonamalie   2.5 miles and 1.3 hours

We start the day with 2 options - lock wall or anchorage.  We had read that the Poonamalie lock is very quiet and peaceful set all by itself in the woods just a short distance outside Smiths Falls.  But it gets busy, and the lock walls get crowded early.  We missed the first opening at Smiths Falls lock 31 just outside the basin but get lined up with several cruisers for the second passage.  When we arrive at Poonamalie it did indeed look tranquil.  Decide upon entering the lock that if there is room at the top we'll stay.  Lockmaster tells us the grey line on the port side all the way forward is available.  Perfect!  They even have power.  We are tied up before 11AM and spend the day watching a parade of Le Boats headed back to Smiths Falls after their week-long charter and new clients headed through the lock and out into the open waters of the lake region to the south. The lockmaster has all available space on both the grey and blue lines filled above and below the lock by the end of the day.  Got to give credit to the locking staff here. They get a good workout with the non-stop boat traffic all day.

Looking back at the activity on Poonamalie lock from our spot on the grey line

The lockmasters house was originally a one-story defensible block house. 
After the canal lost its military value a second story was added for housing the
lockmaster and his family.  A retired lockmaster still lives there today.

Journey for August 16, 2024