July 25-30, 2024 St. Anne de Bellevue, Hawkesbury, Clarence Island and Kitchissipi Marina

Regrets for not posting in a while.  We have had very limited cell service.  Verizon hotspot non-functional, T-Mobile home internet non-functional.   Cell phones are limited.  Finally at a marina outside Ottawa with internet. Here's the updates from the past few days.

Thursday July 25, 2024  Montreal to St. Anne de Bellevue  7.2 hours and 36 miles

Montreal was a nice fun stop but time to move on. Today's objective is to get through the 2 large St. Lawrence Seaway shipping locks and then move on to the Parcs Canada wall at St Anne de Bellevue.  There is only one passage a day for pleasure crafts through the seaway locks.  St Lambert lock at 9 AM and St Catherine at 11AM.   We made the required payments and reservations several days in advance.  Forecast was calling for sunny conditions but with strong westerly winds gusting to over 35 mph.  We got to the first lock an hour before schedule as they request. I see traffic on AIS coming from the opposite direction.  As we make the turn and view the lock the gates are open, and the first cargo ship is slowly working its way out.  We wait while the lock gates close, refill, reload, and deposit another ship before we are allowed to enter.  I say "we" as in us and about 8 other boats. 

Ship #1 exiting the St. Lambert lock

After waiting another lock cycle, ship #2 exits the lock
and pleasure craft start jockeying to enter

Despite a long wall the lock staff gives instruction for rafting 2 and 3 wide. We all get through and are told the order we should enter the next lock to properly raft up.  It's an hour cruise up a narrow channel bypassing the rapids around Montreal. We pass by another ship heading on the opposite direction. A Canadian Steamship Lines cargo ship featuring some unique artwork.  

Relatively narrow canal given the size of these commercial ships

Unique artwork on this one. Usually all you see on the bridge area is a big sign "No Smoking"

Things go smoother in the 2nd lock as everyone knows their assigned position and have fenders properly set.  Big locks going up so we are protected from the worst winds entering the chamber, but get blasted pretty well upon leaving.  

We're all better organized in the second lock.
Big boats against the wall working out to smaller boats

Exiting St Catherine lock you enter a very wide section of the St Lawrence that is called Lake Sainte-Louis.  We head straight west into the wind and chop.  Tried running from the flybridge but the sunny day forecast is a farce as we continue to hit bands of cloudy drizzle.  Taking some windblown spray up on the flybridge was no fun either.  So, we transfer stations to the pilothouse for the rest of the trip.  Spoils from digging the seaway were deposited around the lake during construction making for some weird channels.  After going west halfway, we abruptly turn 90 degrees and head north with a nasty beam sea.  After half an hour we turn back west into the wind once again.  That explains the odd looking path on the map below. 

The flotilla starts powering up at the end of the canal and entering Lake St Louis

Off the dock this morning at 7AM and redocked at St Anne de Bellevue at 2.  Glad to be here and safely tied up.  Cute but small town.  Sort of a Montreal tourist spot for boaters with a long wall with restaurants, bars, shops backing onto the water.   We walk over to the lock for a look.  Some of the boats we locked with are staying the night on the wall with us, others are locking through.  Roughly a foot rise in this lock, but it avoids shallow water and rapids. Interesting to see several police officers doing inspections. Learned from the lock hand the next day they were doing safety inspections looking at fire extinguishers and life jackets.  Told me a 35' go fast boat in the previous lockage got a substantial fine for only having one small extinguisher.   

Safely secured to the wall at St Anne de Bellevue

Main Street - not big, but cute. 

Order of wings and a couple of beers at Cunninghams Bar sufficed for dinner.  Did another walk about on Friday.  Found a really good bakery and loaded up on bread.  Very early dinner at Bellevue Resto Grill -Garlic Shrimp for Martha, Fish and Chips for John.  Then hit the euro bakery for some sumptuous desserts for later on the boat.   Great weather forecasted for Fri/Sat/Sun and the lock helper said to expect a large crowd of boats and people. As the day progressed the entire length of both walls filled with boats.  Finished the day with a nice gin and tonic watching the sunset. We'll now be heading off the St. Lawrence and onto the Ottawa River.

Boats line both sides of the waterfront walls as the sun goes down

Journey for July 25, 2024

Saturday July 27, 2024  St. Anne de Bellevue to Hawkesbury   4.7 hours and 38 miles

Just 2 locks today but a lot of waiting.  We moved up to the Blue Line at the Bellevue lock at 9 AM securing our position for the first lockage. Very busy lock but we're told not to worry.  We have the season lockage and moorage passes which gives us priority over the day users.  Unfortunately, we get notified they will be taking boats down before letting us go up.  It is almost 11 AM by the time all us upbound boats are loaded, moneys collected from the other boat captains for lockage, and we are raised the full 1' before the gates open for release.  Making the most of every inch, they manage to squeeze 9 boats into the lock. 

Captain of the middle boat looked a bit nervous entering
his spot between the two bigger boats

The 3 other large boats we lock with are all heading to the Carillon lock, so we parade up the Ottawa River together.  The smaller 25'-35' cruisers who locked with us take off on plane.  It's a nice sunny 80 degree day for cruising the 20 miles to Carillon.  Things are normally timed so that once you leave Bellevue the lock at Carillon will be waiting for you some 2 hours later.  We're not so fortunate and get told to expect at least an hours wait as they are just unloading up top and then have boats to bring down.   So, we wait again. While the lock dimensions are the same as Bellevue at 180x40 this lock sits aside a hydro power dam and will raise us 65'.  There is a floating dock inside and Parks Canada employees to help.  They have also given us the boat entry sequence they require to fit everyone in.  As the longest boat in the group we go in first and are placed with our bow pulpit within feet of a winding staircase inside the lock.   Other boats get loaded and rafted.  Fees are collected again before the gates will close.   A slow smooth lift takes us up.  The dockhands have done a great job tying the boat to the floating dock and we hardly move so no worries about the bowsprit contacting the staircase - although Martha keeps a close eye on it - just in case. 

Approaching the St. Catherine lock. A bit foreboding for a Parks Canada lock.

Martha keeps a close eye on the bow and walkway stairs as we begin our ascent.

Out of the lock at 3 PM. It's becoming a long day.  We decide to head to Hawkesbury as the town has a free dock at a waterfront park and hope there is room for us.  When we are perpendicular to the entrance channel we see some open space.  A sharp turn to port and we head in and dock on the floating dock.  Betty Mae - another looper is behind us in their 44' Beneteau and are able to slide into a spot against the wall.  Long day, glad to be tied up.  Easy dinner on board.  Big pan of stir fried vegetables as we work to clean out the refrigerator.  This town grew up around one of the largest sawmills in North America during the early and mid 1800's. A lot of lumber went to Europe for ship building during the Napoleonic wars.  By the time the Carillon lock was built in the 60's the mill was long gone and some 300 homes in town were flooded.   Despite being on the Ontario side of the river, 89 percent of the population consider themselves Franco - Ontario's and it has the 3rd highest percent (70 percent) of bilingual residents in Ontario province.   The docks are adjacent to a nice park with an interesting statue. The Fleur de Lis (Lily) in the center honors their French heritage while the outstretched hands welcome all. I guess that sort of explains why all signage at the monument is in French. Not much going on in town so the one night stay was enough. 

We finally figured out the flower and hands - still no idea who the lady might be.

Journey for July 27, 2024

Sunday July 28, 2024.  Hawkesbury to Clarence Island Anchorage   4.3 hours and 34 miles

We leave by noon with plans to get anchored late in the day - hopefully after the crowds thin out. It's been a beautiful weekend weatherwise with sunshine and 80 degree temperatures.  We are also in the middle of the 2 week long construction workers holiday.  All this leads to a huge number of boaters out and about on the water as we make our way to Clarence Island to anchor.  Seems anywhere the weather is good, water is temperate, boats are out, and a shallow stretch of beach is visible a group will gather to create a "party island".  We pass these multiple times today. 

One of several "Party Islands" where boats line up on a sandbar to enjoy the day

Some of our cruising notes mention our anchorage being a very popular weekend spot so we're a bit surprised we are the only boat there.  A fairly wide-open cove and a bit exposed but no real winds expected for the next few days.   Water is clear, deep and cool. We let out plenty of anchor line to get a good bite "just in case" as we've noticed the weather reports here can quickly change. It's peaceful as the sun sets through the haze created by wildfires out west. Lazy day two here as we kayak around exploring the cove to get a little exercise.  Then a leisurely relaxing day of reading and loafing.  Late afternoon we have 5 other boats join us.  The four powerboats go to the head of the cove and raft up.  The single sailboat anchors just past us. 

Playing around in the calm waters at Clarence Island

Sun disappearing through a smoky haze

Journey for July 28, 2024

Monday July 29, 2024  Clarence Island to Kitchissipi Marina  3.2 hours and 24 miles

In the morning we're greeted with white out fog conditions.  No mention of that in any of the weather forecasts!!   Doesn't impact our travel plans as we don't need to move until later.  The fog burns off by 9:30 and develops into another sunny hot day.  We have reservations for 2 nights at a marina which is about a 1/2 hour cruise to the next set of locks, the Ottawa locks.  Weekday boating traffic is much reduced today.  At Rockland there are multiple car ferries crossing the river simultaneously.  I can't figure out how they are being coordinated. We count 5 in active use plus an extra at a dock.  We slow down and wait for the right timing to get between 2 passing ferries. 

After complete whiteout conditions the morning fog finally starts to dissipate

Ferries crossing paths coming and going while we wait for a safe opening to pass.

Arrive at the marina and get a needed pumpout before heading to our slip. Slight current running through here but with no wind we easily manage things.  Nice marina that was recently rebuilt after the severe flooding of 2019-2020.   We arrive in time to give As You Wish a much needed and overdue washing.  Exhausting 2 hours in the afternoon sun but satisfying to see her shining again. We'll use day 2 which is forecast as rainy (of course it is - we just washed the boat) to do some laundry, reprovisioning and catch up on internet stuff. 

Journey for July 30, 2024

July 22-25, 2024 Montreal

 July  22-24, 2024  Playing Tourist in Montreal

Tuesday July 22, 2024 - First evening in Montreal was a do-nothing night.  Ate on the boat and took a quick look around the marina and surroundings but mostly just chilled.   Weather is crazy. Original forecast called for a decent day but as things developed some weird front is tossing bands of rain our way intermittently.

Getting ready to start our walk about in the old city

Classic tourist shot with La Grande Roue de Montreal in background. 
Installed in 2017 at the old port to commemorate Montreal's 375th anniversary

Wednesday July 23, 2024  More weather expected later in the day so decided to get some sightseeing started early.  Walked up to the Chateau Ramezay Museum.  One of the oldest remaining homes in Montreal it was built by then Governor Claude de Ramezay using his own design and personal fortunes. It was the first stone building in Montreal. He used it as a residence but also to conduct business. Nice gardens in the rear consisting of three period correct sections.  A formal garden in the center with kitchen gardens on either side - vegetable on one side and fruits and herbs on the other.  

The Ramezay house and museum. Originally a more imposing 2 story home. 

The Ramezay garden area - also originally much larger

Walked around the old quarter - through Jacque Cartier marketplace (he was not a founder of Montreal but in the 1500's he was the first one to sail this far up the St. Lawrence before it became unnavigable). Went by Notre Dame Basilica. I remember being awestruck by its interior during a high school French Club trip.  Built in the 1800's.  The smaller Notre Dame Chapel was another stop. This building dates to 1771 and is built over the site of the first chapel in Montreal dating to 1655.  

Front view of Notre Dame Chapel

Rear of Notre Dame Chapel facing the St Lawrence River
 where the statue of Mary beckons sailors after their safe voyage. 
Hence, it's referred to as the sailor's church.

And here is the Notre Dame Basilica

S

Good croissants for breakfast at a pastry shop at the end of this alley

Montreal City Hall - just completed a renovation

Old City in Montreal

Severe weather alerts for the afternoon so decided to take the 2-hour Hop-On Hop-Off city bus tour.   A double decker bus so we sat up top in the open air.  Fun loop around the city and up around Mt Royal. Despite the ongoing squall warnings and severe thunderstorm warnings it still wasn't raining so we headed for refreshments at Brewsky's in the Bonsecour Market.  Decided to get the Petite Poutine to snack on.  The petite was huge and served us well for dinner.  Back on the boat we finally did get several bands of gusty winds and rain.  Our location in the marina next to a huge wall kept us well protected. 

Beer and poutine - Canada's national dish - fries, cheese curds and brown gravy

Thursday July 24, 2024   Washer and dryers were right next to our slip so presented the perfect opportunity for getting a few loads done in the AM.  Then on to more touring.  Our Hop-On Hop-Off bus pass was good for a second day and we decided to loop again.  Neither of us thought the tour guide on day one was overly impressive but the one for day two was much more thorough and informative.

Looking down on Montreal from Mont-Royal (Mount Royal...from which the name Montreal was derived)

More rain forecast for the afternoon so decided to hit the Pointe-a-Calliere Archeology and history of Montreal Museum.  The museum is built over the site of Villa-Marie, the first settlement in Montreal.  They did a major archeological dig of the area and then basically built a museum over the site.  Quite interesting to see evidence of the first settlements palisade, then continued evidence of building upon building being built over the site. They also do traveling museum displays with the current one being the Olmecs and other early Mexico Civilizations.  Never heard of Olmecs before seeing this display, but they were a civilization thousands of years before the Mayans. Developed several sites in lower Mexico. No written language so not much is really known about them, but they carved impressive large stone figures and intricate smaller stone ones. 

Samples of the Olmec displays.  The head in the center was a good 4' tall.

Raining by the time we were done in the museum and getting hungry so headed to Jardin Nelson for a nice meal out.  A petit pitcher of sangria to quench our thirst.  French Onion Soup and a Shredded Duck Confit Crepe for Martha.  Charcutiere Pizza for John.   Decided to head over to the Bonsecour market one last time and hit the Cave De Patisserie for some croissants for breakfast.  We'll be making an early departure with no time to grab them then.

Lots of hanging flower baskets inside the Jardin Nelson along with a jazz ensemble playing appropriate rainy day themed songs i.e. Singing in the Rain, Raindrops Keep Falling on My Head, etc. 

The domed building is the Bonsecour Market - home to both Brewsky's and Cave de Patisserie

July 21-22, 2024 St Ours lock and Montreal

Sunday July 21, 2024 Chambly to St Ours    5 hours and 33 miles

As promised by the lockmaster we were the first downbound boat to go through the lock.  That still meant we had to wait for a group of upbound boats, so it was 9:45 by the time we got the call to head for the locks.  Flight of 3 locks which either due to lower winds or better positioning of our fenders seemed to go more smoothly - or maybe it was just having the lock to ourselves instead of jammed in with another 50' boat. 

View leaving lock 3 and going into lock 2

Looking back on the flight of 3 locks at Chambly

 Once out of the lower lock it was several hours of slow cruising to St. Ours.   This section of the Richelieu River between the two sets of locks is basically a long thin lake.  Houses on both sides, plenty of docks, boats, marinas, kayakers, fishermen, paddle boarders.  So, we limited our speed to minimize our wake.  Overall, still a relatively short cruising day.  Only tricky part was getting through the old railroad bridge at Borell.  At a left hand turn in the river the opening for the bridge is on the left side against the bank.  Almost impossible to see until you're on top of it and by then the current is flushing you through.  Glad I had read about it before hand.

Verry scenic approach to the Borell RR bridge

Then the bridge and channel become visible

And you get flushed through hoping traffic on the other side will hold up for you.

We made it to St. Ours lock and were greeted with open gates.  This is a full size lock.  When it was installed in the late 20's to replace the original lock it was sized like the Erie canal locks to allow larger barges, but since the Chambly canal and locks were never upgraded they became the limiting factor in barge traffic through Canada. By that time roads and rail were taking over transport and further upgrades to more locks were just deemed unnecessary.  Interesting arrangement in St. Ours lock.   They have a floating dock along the port side that you tie to.  Actually, the nice Parks Canada summer help grab your lines and tie you.  Just a short 5-6' drop. 

View of St Ours lock looking north - closed for the day

End of the day with As You Wish secured to the gray line
 and ready for an early morning departure

Busy lock. We had 6 boats total with us.  We were hoping to stay the night at the lock as it's beside a nice island park. When the gates opened, downstream boats lined the entire length of the blue line (waiting to lock) and the gray line (visiting).  Lockmaster said don't worry.  Pull to the side and idle,  several boats on the grey line would be locking and provide us a space.  Worked out great and we had our spot for the night. Another interesting feature at this lock is a fish ladder at the far side of the dam.  Several endangered species that spawn in the rapids above Chambly use it.  There's a viewing window but since we were past the spawning season no fish to be seen. 

The fish ladder on the west side of the dam at St Ours

Journey for July 21, 2024

Monday July 22, 2024  St Ours to Montreal  7.5 hours and 59 miles

Planning for a full day on the water today we left the St. Ours dock at 7:45. The final stretch of the Richelieu River goes all the way uninterrupted to the St. Lawrence River.   No locks today. We're carried initially with favorable current to Sorel Tracy where the Richelieu and St. Lawrence meet.  This is our northernmost point on the trip at 46.031'187"N.  Unfortunately, from there all the way to Montreal we've got the current fighting us. Our normal 1400rpm and 10mph is reduced to 7 mph.  In this area there is the main deep water shipping channel but also another channel called the small boat channel.  Small boat meaning no ships. Still plenty of water, usually 20' or more.  We use that route and find a reduced current allowing us to gain an extra mph.   Wide water with nothing overly notable other than churches along the shoreline and reading the names and home counties of various ships docked or at anchor along the way.

Interesting looking old churches seemed to pop up every few miles at each riverfront town

Some were quite impressive. Still trying to determine why
or the purpose that most have silver roofs and steeples.

Still plenty of bulk cargo ships using the St. Lawrence Seaway

The river narrows entering Montreal causing the currents to increase.  We've read about it but were surprised at the strength. Dropping us at times down to under 5 mph. We are staying at Port d'Escale  right in downtown old city Montreal for three nights.  Crazy entrance fighting maximum currents right until you turn into their entrance and then thankfully calm waters once in the marina.   Long day today so just took it easy with dinner onboard.  We'll spend the next few days exploring.

The clocktower is an historic landmark at Port Montreal. 
 Built in 1918 it commemorated those lost in WW1 but also
 was an homage to the importance the port was in Montreal's history.

As You Wish secured at Port d'Escale with La Grande Roue De Montreal
 in the background - built in 2017 to commemorate the city's 375th birthday.

Journey for July 22, 2024