March 13, 2023 Back to Port 32 and the end of our St Johns River Trip

 Mon. March 13, 2023  Black Creek to Port 32 Marina - 38 miles

Rain showers continued off and on during the morning.  Finally settled into a very light mist by 1pm with the forecast calling for rain ending and then clearing by late afternoon.  Made the decision to haul anchor and head for Jax.  The 2-1/2 hour run would have us there by 4.  Nice and cozy running from the pilothouse with Otto doing most of the work as we had long stretches of straight travel.  Wind had changed direction overnight so now we had a NW breeze creating a light chop on our bow.  

Peaceful location on a rainy weekday morning.  Just us and the ducks!

Just a little further - under the Buckman Bridge 

Once again passing familiar sights - Dr. Lake Bridge, under the Buckman Bridge, past NAS JAX and finally into the Ortega River and through that splendid little bridge.  Contacted the marina to confirm slip assignment and starboard side tie.  Lines and fenders all set.  Ready to head in when got call back - nope - someone in our slip.  You'll need to set up for portside tie.  Hover in the channel and redo all the lines and fenders. At least the wind died down and current is negligible. Head down the fairway and make a smooth pirouette to back stern in to slip B-069.  Lines secured, power attached.  We're secure for our weeks stay.  Martha will make the most of the marina's washers and dryers. Dirty clothes have been piling up since we left here almost a month ago.  By the same token, the boat hasn't been washed either, so big chore for me.  Next week over to Lambs Yachting Center for a haulout, bottom cleaning, running gear and zinc check, and a full wax job.  

Journey for March 13, 2023

March 12, 2023 Palatka to Black Creek

 SUNDAY !!  March 12, 2023  Palatka to Black Creek - 38 miles

We purposely left Palatka a bit late - it was after 11 by the time we got underway.   Half day cruise would get us to Black Creek by 3 and by then we were hoping the weekend crowd would be thinning down.   Favorable ride for us as we had a strong SW wind blowing at our stern and were riding the falling current.  Winds kicked up at times into 15-20 range putting a chop and occasional whitecaps on the water.  We're in a much wider part of the river now so plenty of fetch for winds to do their thing.  Too far from shore to do much sightseeing so mostly just looking at open water and trying to spot the next daymarker.  

We pass the American Star headed to Palatka from Jacksonville.
7 day river cruises start at $4500pp. We like our cruising better.

The wide open and deeper water gave us an opportunity to run the engines up to WOT and blow any carbon buildup from the turbos. This is a recommended routine since they've been a bit neglected with a lot of low RPM running through the minimum wake areas combined with narrow river areas where we were not wanting to push a big wake.  The boat bottom must be staying fairly clean as we hit our top end speed. It's amazing the difference fresh/brackish water and routinely moving the boat does for preventing bottom growth and barnacles.

Turned into Black Creek coming through an area between shoals on the south side.  Depths never under 7' so a good alternative to the longer northern entrance. Once under the Hiway 17 bridge things got crazy.  Not sure if it was due to the start of daylight savings time and it staying light later, or due to windy/choppy conditions out on the river, or simply lots of new boaters wanting to get out and enjoy the 80 degree weekend, but Black Creek was an absolute zoo.  We cruised up the creek and back for an extra hour hoping things would die off.  Finally, just anchored and hoped the jet skiers, wake boarders, skiers, tubers, pontoon boats, center consoles, go fast boats, etc.  would not hit us or catch our anchor line as they zoomed by.  Thankfully by 5 it started to thin out and got fairly quiet by 6. 

Wakeboarding up and down the creek

No place to go but up and down, so same boats over and over.  
To stay extra legal we even put our black anchor ball on the bow.

Not sure why the hurry, but he threw a big wake our way.

Heavy rain, thunderstorms, potential hail and tornadoes expected tonight.  The forecast has been calling for this front to come through all week.  Put on a good lightning and thunder show with some heavy bands of rain.  Otherwise, nothing too severe for us.  Hardly even much wind. Weather expected to pass by midday Monday.  If so, we'll make a final run back to Port 32 on the Ortega River

Journey for March 12, 20203
Look close for the section of white line
That's our WOT run at 23.4mph

March 10,11 2023 Palatka, FL.

 Fri.  March 10, 2023  7 Sisters to Corky Bells - 11 miles

7 Sisters anchorage has probably been one of our favorites on this trip.  Great wind protection from all directions, plenty of swing room, nice depths without being too deep and requiring excess scope, all natural surroundings and just an occasional fisherman passing through creating minimal wakes.  One thing we noticed on today's trip headed back north is how the native palm trees along the river thin out considerably - replaced by more hardwoods and thus reducing that tropical Florida feeling.    Just a few hours cruise today.  The only potential obstacle was the Buffalo Bluff RR bridge, but it was in the up position allowing quick passage. 

Martha takes us under the Buffalo Bluff RR bridge

Got to Corky Bells dock at 11:30. Despite a bit of wind, we looked like pro's easing the boat alongside and quickly getting tied up all by ourselves. Gave the onlookers on the outside patio something to watch while munching on their fish and shrimp platters.    We opted for a late lunch and a trip to the grocery store across the street.  Then chilled and returned to the tiki bar for a drink later that evening.  Got some overnight rain.  Was hoping it would wash off a quite dirty boat but just seemed to make it worse.  Wind was blowing until around midnight which was making a symphony of noises with water splashing against the hull sides and dock. Once it settled down we got some good sleep.

Journey for March 10, 2023

Sat. March 11, 2023  Around the bend to Palatka - 2 miles

Weather Saturday was sunny and very light northerly winds. Perfect for anchoring in the open waters off the town dingy docks.  So we headed over early, dropped the hook, dropped the dingy and headed to the dock.  Saw a number of EZ UP tents at the waterfront park and figured it was a farmers' market.  Nope.  Bass tourney today and that will be the weigh in area later. We walk up to downtown and headed for This and That Cafe for a very late breakfast.   Then up and down a few streets in the historic district. 

Town dock and waterfront park at Palatka

AS You Wish swings gently at anchor

Palatka has a long history.  The Spanish had established a settlement here dating back to the late 1500's for cattle farming as part of their development of St. Augustine.  It's a narrow part of the river and was used as a cattle crossing location.  The Florida territory went back and forth between the Spanish and British several times and each time saw Palatka either start to flourish or decline as loyal citizens came and went.   Once Florida became part of the US it still had ups and downs.  It became a significant seaport for central Florida during the steamship era as it was as far south as deeper draft vessels could go.  Imports got unloaded and moved south on the river on smaller boats or else moved inland.  Orange groves were an abundant agriculture industry and northern tourists during the winter months drawn to the natural wonders and amazing fishing kept the town growing. 

Nicely restored home in The Hammock historic district.
Now Grand Gables Inn B&B

 A fire in 1864 destroyed much of the town but it rebuilt quickly until suffering through the great freezes of 1894 and 1895 which destroyed the citrus industry here and moved it further south.  Rail transport then replaced steamships as another nail in the coffin.  And rail moved tourists even further south along the coast.   The town survived on lumbering, tourism and farming but its best days seemed to be over despite it being the Putnam County Seat.   It remains a town in flux.  There's a lot of charm and two distinct historical areas.   Some homes having been lovingly restored - some still need help - but at least they haven't all been bulldozed.  They've done a nice job with a waterfront park. Nice effort downtown but still too many empty stores.   Plenty of lawyers' offices supporting the County Courthouse. It has potential to be a cute town.   Nicknamed "The Azalea City" due to all the plants at the nearby Ravines State Park planted as part of a WPA project during the depression.   It's also known as "City of Murals" for the 25+ murals painted throughout the town depicting local natural and historical subjects. 

Noaha Ark - built locally in 1929 - took the likes of Cary Grant and Jimmy Stewart 
on St. Johns River fishing excursions during its hayday.
  Now waiting for restoration funds.

By mid afternoon we're thirsty.  Back downtown to sample the local craft brewery.  Azalea City Brewery is housed in the old Coca-Cola bottling building.  It is an iconic building style that Coke used in many small towns. We had one that looked identical in Spartanburg. Classic dark red brick with a big bold Coca Cola logo in concrete imbedded over the entrance.  Good selection of beers. Nice red ale, stouts, etc.   Their juicy hazy IPA was very refreshing with a nice 8.4% ABV kick. 

Some afternoon libations for the thirsty tourists

The very short journey for March 11, 2023

March 6,7,8, 2023 Morrison Island, Welaka and 7 Sisters

Mon. March 6, 2023  River Forest Loop to Morrison Island - 17 miles

Woke up to a bit of fog. Really wasn't that bad and had burned off by 9:30. But it gave us an excuse to sleep in a bit longer.  No hurry to get started due to another relatively short travel day, 

Good to be back cruising on a weekday and be free of heavy boater traffic.  Just a few fishermen out in their skiffs. center consoles, or bass boats and most of them were anchored or trolling close to shore. This is mostly winding natural river so not much to do but look at the river, the woods and the variety of birds on shore.  As we approached civilization and the Astor Highway Bridge we hailed and received an opening.   Rather be cautious with this bridge.  Books say 20' height, height board said 22'.  We're 21.5' so too close for comfort.

Waiting on Astor Hiway Bridge opening

Around a few more bends and we see the old tug "Tiger" anchored off the channel.  We had noticed it heading south and now it piqued our interest.  Come to find out it is a WW2 tug built downriver in the town of Deland.  They built 29 of them during the war.  This one was supposedly used on D-Day.  A couple in Sweden owned it and donated it to the Volutia County historical society as a display.  It was shipped over from Sweden and has been moving down the St. Johns. Wound up here stuck in some mud.  Now waiting for high water to return in the fall before hopefully making its final transit. Still has its original engine and original top structure making it a true survivor.  We always enjoy learning about these little bits of local history during our waterway travels.

Tug "Tiger" waiting to get moved to Deland

She does have a bit of a list while sitting on the bottom.

Reminded us of the logo for our favorite craft brewery on Johns Island

A few more turns and we anchored again at the north entrance of Morrison Island.   Big gator floated by shortly after anchoring and grunted from the woods all night.  Needless to say, no swimming for us.

Gator!!

Journey for March 6, 2023

Tues. March 7, 20203  Morrison Island to Welaka - 26 miles

We had gotten so used to making these 1-2 hour cruises that today felt like a long travel day although it was actually barely half a day.  Made the run across Lake George without issue.  Our navigation program was showing shallow water - sometimes just 3-4' in the marked channel just as you come onto the lake.   I had called the local TowBoatUS for guidance.  When told we had 4.5' draft the reply was "Yeah, you should be OK".  Not the warm fuzzy feeling I wanted and so we deviated and used an alternate channel we discovered when coming south from Silver Glen Spring.  Had 7' at the lowest so all was good. Then back around into the proper channel and we had 10'.  

Our detour around the shallow marked channel

That was it for our drama for the day. Little bit of breeze but it kept things comfortable as our final days of 80 degree weather appears to be coming to an end.  Unbelievable weather we've had on this trip but a bit cooler and wind arriving tonight.

Beautiful weather, beautiful scenery once off Lake George

Journey for March 7, 2023

March 8, 20203  Welaka to 7 Sisters - 6 miles

Just a short hop up to 7 Sisters.  Less than an hour cruise.  Much better protection from the NE winds blowing 15-20.   We even had a bit of a chop and a few small whitecaps hitting us in the bow during one particularly open fetch.  Even dug out the sweatshirts to be comfortable on the flybridge. 

Little bit of wind blown chop on the water today

Biggest surprise today was seeing 3 looper boats heading south.  Leave it to Wally, Port O Gee and Zeitgeist.  Waved, took their pictures and messaged them on Nebo with the picture.  Always fun to see other loopers in our travels who share in these adventures.

Leave it to Wally - Albin 32 Trawler

Port-O-Gee - 34' Mainship Pilot

Zeigeist - 29' Ranger Tug

We stayed here 2 nights hoping to see a couple of rocket launches.   Today we were waiting for the Relativity space launch.  First launch for this company who are fabricating 3D printed rockets. Really interesting use of this technology.  Supposed to launch at 1pm but pushed off a few times. Finally scrubbed.  Thought we could see the SpaceX launch the next day.  Went off without a hitch but nothing we could see despite blue skies. We like the night launches better for visibility.  Speaking of night - great viewing of stars and the full moon rising.

Full moon rising over our anchorage

Journey for March 8, 20203

March 5, 2023 Butchers Bend to River Forest Loop

 Sunday March 5, 2023 Butchers Bend to River Forest Loop - 16 miles

We've primarily tried to stay anchored and out of the way on the weekends, so a bit surprised at the sheer numbers of boaters out on this Sunday. It started with the sound of bass boats flying down the river at first light waking us up - obviously in some sort of tournament.  Water was still calm at anchor - no breezes of note expected the next few days.   We tinker about and finally raise the anchor at 10.  Couple of things today.  We'll pass through those slow manatee zones again - especially around Blue Springs and Hontoon Island State Park.   We've made arrangements for a pumpout and to take on water at Holly Bluff Marina.  We need to time it well to get through Whitehair Bridge during one of their hourly openings.  

Wildlife along the waterfront

We make it to the Blue Springs area and it is a zoo.  Boats pulled up on the banks. Kayakers blocking the channel.  We decide to keep moving.  Been checking their live web camera and no manatees to be seen there.  Around the bend and past Hontoon Island State Park and then a stop for our pumpout.   Good dock, deep water, fast pumpout, friendly staff.  

Sunday flotilla out in force

Timing is still spot on for the 1 PM bridge opening as we leave.  We arrive just a few minutes before 1:00.  Call the bridge tender and she says  "Coast guard has changed opening schedule and next opening is not until 2PM"   I ask what has changed since I came through last week and was told it would open on the hour.   She calls us back several minutes later and says -"Sorry, my bad, we'll be opening at 1".  So up it went and through we started.  Couple of smaller boats jumped ahead of us. Not an issue except the pontoon ahead of us was going so slow we were running him down right under the bridge while I was idling and taking tranny in and out of gear. Captain was completely oblivious to us until I finally had to give him a toot on the horn. Note to self - be wary of any boater wearing a captains hat!    

Running down the pontoon boater.

Made it to our anchorage and spent the afternoon doing an oil and filter change on the generator.  With all our anchoring out we've been needing to run the generator for a few hours in the morning and evening to charge up the batteries. Not too bad as it's while we're cooking breakfast and dinner. Surprised at how quickly the hours add up.  First one I've done on this generator.  Not too bad. 

Journey for March 5, 2023

March 3, 2023 Back to Butchers Bend

 March 3, 2023   Sanford to Butchers Bend - 7 miles

Fri. March 3, 2023  Time to get moving off the lake as we have 2 days of SW winds blowing a steady 15-20mph with gusts over 30.   We decided to make the short trip back to Butchers Bend which offers a secure anchorage.  We'll still have a bit of exposure to the winds but nothing that should be too uncomfortable.  Winds have died down each night to 10 or less so that will keep us oriented but not swaying or rocking.   Anchor up at Sanford before the winds pick up so easy enough getting off the lake. Glad the anchor washdown is working as chain had lots of mud imbedded in the links.  Off the lake we hit the RR bridge which again was down.  Nice bridge tender says train is just a few minutes away and then will quickly get it raised.  Once past the bridges, it's a short trip to our anchorage. Relatively quick day.  We take it easy doing nothing.  Watch a few fishermen try their luck and spy a rather large gator first in the lily pads on one side of us, then sunning on a bank on the alternate shore.

We wondered where the riverboat turned around when we saw it leaving the docks in Sanford. 
 Now we know - Butchers Bend!!

Sat. March 4, 2023  We stay put another day as wind is still blowing.  Another day of reading and watching nature.  We had a couple on another boat come in and drop anchor right in front of us.  Typical go-fast boat owner.  Undersized anchor tied to some rope.  Surprised he didn't snag our anchor chain or drift back on us.  I cannot understand why people feel the need to get so close in a wide-open area.  They stayed a few hours and then headed out.   

Not really sure what these two are getting ready to do. 

I guess our patience waiting to see manatees finally paid off today.   We had a herd of them rolling in the waters around us late afternoon. We couldn't figure out if they were mating, birthing, or just cavorting but they gave us a nice show for over an hour. Not sure exactly how many were there but guessed it was probably six. 

They surfaced close to us at one point

Look close and find the manatee's head

Multiple manatees  - doing something???

Coming up for a quick breather and look about.

    

Journey for March 3, 2023

March 1, 2023 Destination Sanford, FL.

Wed. March 1, 2023  Butchers Bend to Sanford, FL  -  7 miles

Very nice evening at anchor in Butchers Bend.  Nice breeze all afternoon kept things comfortable and then the wind died down overnight giving a peaceful night's sleep.    Anchor up at 9:30 and down the last few curves of the navigable St. Johns River.   Railroad bridge with 7' clearance awaited us in the down position.  Waited just a few minutes for a Florida Sunliner train to pass and up it went.  We were concerned originally on seeing the RR bridge there was a construction project in process here too as it was covered in some sort of wrap.  As we passed under it the fabric appeared older and torn in places and we began to think it was more likely an enclosure to hold in all the flaking rusty metal bits that fall off with each passing train. Pretty rough shape.  Interesting that there are now 3 generations of bridges here.   Remnants of the original trestle bridge now a fishing pier, the current bascule bridge and a newer high rise. 

Florida Sunliner train passes over the Sanford RR bridge

Remnants of old trestle bridge and new highway bridge

Under the final high rise bridge and out onto Lake Monroe. Pretty shallow but we followed the marked channel with supposed 9' depths, although we marked a few places under 7'.   Anchored in the lake off the south end of the marina as they had no room for us due to flood damage. 

Exposed anchorage on Lake Monroe

St. Johns Riverboat taking tourists out for the day

Pretty much the entire trip today was idling along either because of the slow speed manatee zones or us being cautious in the shallow water.   Wouldn't mind the slow speed zones if we would have seen at least one manatee.   I will blame it on the flood but a bit disappointed in the lack of gators and manatees.  Water really backed up in Sanford cresting at almost a 9' flood stage.  Some buildings on the waterfront had water intrusion but businesses along the main street were spared. We plan to spend 2 nights here then have a few upcoming windy days requiring us to get off the lake.

We visited Sanford by land previously and thought the town had a unique vibe.  Part old Florida, part, artsy. part hip, and part touristy. Once anchored we took the dingy to the free town dock to do some exploring.  Found one of the local breweries, Sanford Brewing Co., and cleared our pollen laden throats with a tasty flight - 2 stouts, a red ale and a wheat beer. Good and varied selection of beers. Then on to early dinner. Hollerbach's is a German restaurant in town and an institution. Martha's German heritage had her happily dining on some sauerbraten, spätzle and red cabbage.  My equally Eastern European Polish heritage had me enjoying the 3 brat plate with red cabbage, sauerkraut and potato salad along with a nice Doppelbock beer. 

Sehr gut!

My plate wasn't too shabby either

We are getting low on critical fresh grocery supplies. Closest supermarket is Winn Dixie over 2 miles away. Just a bit too far for us to walk so opted to try their free delivery service. While many loopers regularly use these services it was our first time.  Overall, not a bad experience.  They got a few items wrong.  Between tipping your "shopper" and tipping the driver it adds up.  I found selecting items online was a bit tedious and time consuming.  Maybe it's my thrifty nature but I'd rather just shop myself. I like picking out my own fruits, vegetables and meats and walking the aisles to see what might spark an interesting dinner menu. 

Free town docks - no overnighting, shallow water

That chore accomplished we headed back to town.  Destination was Dee's Brothers Brewery. Awesome brews.  The Milk Stout and Imperial Stout were very tasty but we both decided the Kilted Dutchman Scotch Ale was our favorite. Great depth of flavors and so smooth despite an 11% ABV . Next stop was Deviant Wolfe Brewing. Pretty limited selection - not enough for a worthwhile flight so just settled on a glass of their stout.  Not bad, but overall would have enjoyed a full glass of the Kilted Dutchman back at Dee's.  From there we stumbled to Christo's for some Italian food. Was thinking about pizza but wound up with eggplant parmesan.  Big portion and had to bring half of it and a slice of their homemade strawberry cake back to the boat.  Martha was a bit more sensible with a sandwich.  Apparently, we were too busy drinking and eating to think about taking any pictures downtown.

Been a good trip exploring the St. Johns River.  Weather has been unbelievable.  Unseasonably warm days and perfect sleeping temps at night.  Humidity has been reasonable.  Pollen has been the biggest drawback.  We could use a good rain shower to knock it down and clean off the boat. 

Sunset behind the marina at Sanford

Journey for March 1, 2023