August 19, 2025 On to Mahone Bay to settle in for Hurricane Erin

 Wednesday August 19, 2025  Shelter Cove to Mahone Bay Dock.  96 miles and 9.3 hours

We are hitting very limited days suitable for cruising. Winds seem to never stop - just a matter of how strong and what direction.   We're technically cruising the North Atlantic every time we hop down the south coast of Nova Scotia, so wave heights and direction are also a constant concern.  Currently have 9 weather apps I'm following to keep up with local conditions as well as the progress of Hurricane Erin.  While it's not forecast to hit Nova Scotia directly, it's such a wide and powerful storm that even with it far offshore it still will have a significant impact on wind and waves for multiple days.  We had hoped to be crossing over to Maine about now based on our original master schedule, but right now things look like it may be almost two more weeks before we get a proper weather window for crossing the Bay of Fundy.   All that said, today is our last "GO" day for another long run before Hurricane Erin's impact encroaches. Today's forecast calls for 2-3 foot waves from the south. But with winds from the north gusting to 20mph we're expecting choppy, sloppy and mixed seas. 

Off to an early start.  Anchor up at 6:45. Plenty of light out and two sailboats already left and headed north.  Chain and anchor held great overnight but comes up with a bit of mud requiring a good washdown.  That secured, we're off.   

Peaceful night and calm morning as the sun rises in Shelter Cove anchorage

Sun is a bit brutal for the short run out the anchorage before we head to sea

Quick run into the ocean and seas are as expected. Not terrible but just confused.  Stabilizers help a bit but the windblown spray is the bigger bother.  Constant turning of the knob - wipers on / wipers off.  Offshore and then through some island passages.  Hard rocky coastline when we can see it.  Work our way into open water again and across the shipping lanes that head to Halifax.  Hope to go explore there during our week long layover in Mahone Bay. 

Lighthouse on a rocky bluff as we pass near shore

Wind kicking up some spray

Hard rock shoreline - not where you want to go off course

Had a difficult time finding a place to take us for the week.  No room at docks or no room for our size.  Even difficult to get a mooring - same issues.  Mooring weights are insufficient for out tonnage or insufficient swing room between moorings.  Mahone Bay (the town) is a smaller community of about 1000 people tucked well into the side of Mahone Bay (the water).  Good protection from all directions except SE.  Not fancy but a decent floating dock attached to the town wharf. Water and 50 AMP power available. Not even a bad weekly rate. 

Mahone Bay.  As You Wish tied to the end of the town wharf

Back side of the buildings on Main Street that abut the harbor

Town never existed when the French controlled Nova Scotia. The English encouraged European Protestant immigrants with free land in the area as a way to further maintain their control after the Treaty of Paris. Like many towns in Nova Scotia, it became a boat building center back in the 1800's.  Has managed to hold onto many 19th century homes and buildings so it's quite quaint.

A unique architectural feature on houses here is the "Lunenburg Bump". 
The three-sided dormer was made popular by builders in that nearby town. 

Beautifully maintained and ornate trim work is very common 

 Mostly a tourist town now.   Most famous feature is the three churches standing side by side at the end of the harbor. St. James Anglican, St. John's Lutheran, and Trinity United Churches.

St. James Anglican

St. John'.s Lutheran

Trinity United

(Internet picture, can't take credit). Fall picture with bare trees, 
shows the unique 3-steeple landmark as you enter the harbor.

Journey for August 19, 2025

August 18, 2025 Onward to a 5-Star Anchorage

 Tuesday  August 18, 2025  Beaver Harbour Anchorage to Shelter Cove Anchorage   19 miles and 2.1 hours

Tucked behind Macleod Island in Beaver Harbour worked out OK for the past 2 days we were there.  Not as protected as we would have liked and with winds blowing and changing direction it felt like we could find better.  Today's winds are forecasted as strong northerly gusting to 30.  Looking at the charts we found an anchorage called Shelter Cove that had a 5-star rating about 20 miles away.  Headed out at 7 AM before the big winds started blowing.  Bit of a bumpy ride with very confused seas but we can tolerate about anything for the 2 hours it took to arrive. 

Overnight rain showers were still working their way offshore as we started the day

Got nervous and apprehensive as we approached the entrance as we saw one, then two, then three sailboat masts already settled in the cove.  Not a problem as there was still room for us to drop anchor further in with even better protection. By 9 AM we were dropping the anchor in one of the prettiest little protected coves we've seen.  Big reason we like to anchor out is finding these types of peaceful natural settings.  Opened the door to the pilothouse to go out and set the anchor and the fresh scent of the surrounding spruce trees made it just that little bit better. Our rating would certainly be 5 stars.  Was hoping Martha could get a drone shot but wind was too stiff.   Enjoyable day relaxing in the sun, reading, checking weather, blogging, making reservations for our next stop, etc.  Always plenty to do.  Shame we'll only be here the one day.

Scenery at our bow

Chillin' literally - sunny but 60's with those cool northerly winds 

Sharing the cove with a couple of sailboats.

View from the stern

Journey for August 18, 2025

August 15, 2025 Heading out of Bras d'Or Lake and along the Nova Scotia Coast

 Friday  August 15, 2025  Big Harbour Anchorage to St. Peters Lock Wall   41 miles and 5 hours

After that awesome storm passed overnight it turned into a pretty nice day.  Sun came out, wind shifted to a less humid northerly direction, but still kept up the 5-10 winds with gusts to 20 and temperatures moderated back down into the mid 70's.  Headed down the lake passing under the Barra Strait bridges again. Open water was pretty easy with a light chop directly on the stern. 

Passing back by more of those unique gypsum cliffs

Life would be fantastic if every day on the water looked this calm

Grass growing on the Barra Strait RR bridge confirms - no longer in use.

Back to St. Peters Marina for fuel and water.  Best price we've had in all of Canada!!  JUST $1.55 CAN  per litre which equates to $5.87 CAN/gallon, or about $4.25 USD/gallon. Loaded up the water tank and then we were off.  Hailed the St. Peters lock tender for passage and they quickly got the lock ready. Then headed down to open the swing bridge to let us through.  No problems in the lock and then settled in for the night against the lock wall making for a quick and easy morning departure. 

Swing bridge open and then the meandering entrance to the lock

Met up with our buddy Tom on Sky Blue at the lock wall.  He's also heading out in the morning.   We're both keeping careful eyes on the weather.  Long day tomorrow and it will likely be a bit sporty.

As You Wish and Sky Blue tied to the lock wall for the evening
awaiting an early morning departure

Journey for August 15, 2025

Saturday  August 16, 2025  St. Peters Wall to Beaver Harbour Anchorage   107 miles and 10.3 hours

Early morning departure as it's going to be a long day.  Off the lock wall just after 6 AM.  Forecast remains the same - doable but likely not enjoyable with seas running 2-3'. At least they will be at our stern.  With potential for it being a bit rougher we double check securing everything movable in the cabin and opt to run from the pilothouse.  Lower center of gravity so less momentum being tossed side to side.  Waves are from the NE, so we'll have them at our stern.  Winds will change direction over the course of the day which just adds a bit more confusion to the waves.  

Nice start to our cruise as we make way down Lennox Passage

Out Lennox Passage and across Chedabucto Bay things are fairly pleasant.  Still just light morning breezes as the sun rises.  Nice not having it directly in our eyes. More exposed waters coming around the Canso Point gets a little messier as waves are coming abeam our port side.  They're more rollers than waves with a decent period between each and with the stabilizers activated things smooth out to a tolerable level. 

Lighthouses protecting the rocky shores around Cape Canso

Once around the Cape we set a SW course and enjoy a bit of a push from the winds and waves all day. We're running about 5 miles offshore so land is visible.  As we're passing the entrance to Liscomb a target shows up on AIS heading in from the ocean at 17 knots.  Spot it on the horizon and it is moving fast and crashing head on through the waves throwing out a huge spray.  Aquanova passes behind us with her big tender in tow.  She's a 150' Palmer Johnson, you can charter for a mere $180,000 per week.  Get ready for the fuel bill as it burns 120 gallons per hour!  We edge in closer to shore take the inside passage. 

Making our own waves. Nice clean but salty water.

Things settle a bit due to the many islands we pass but navigating is requiring a careful lookout. We pass the entrances to Marie Joseph, Ecum Secum, Necum Teuch, and Hartling.  All potential anchorages but we continue on to Beaver Harbour which will put us half-way to our next destination of either Halifax or Lunenburg. Tucked about 3 miles inland waves aren't an issue and we find a spot behind Macleod Island that offers protection from wind.   A sailboat has already anchored in the prime spot tucked closer to the island but plenty of room for us to drop the hook too.  Long ten hour day of bobbing around.  Better than beating head on into waves, but we're both still feeling the motion of the ocean while sitting perfectly still.  

The anchorage behind Macleod Island via Martha's drone

Sunset at the anchorage

We'll stay here on Sunday as seas are still building outside our comfort level.  Makes for a relaxing day.  With Starlink for internet and Fubo on the TV we're set for watching a Jaguars preseason game and an IndyCar race.  That and we're keeping an eye on a colony of seals that were basking on a mud bank at low tide this morning.   Apparently, a bad fire out by Halifax sent a smoke screen our way when the breeze first picked up.  Thankfully it passed after half an hour or so.  

Colony of seals basking on their backs on a mud flat.
 Smoke from a nearby fire distorting the view

Same seal pod a little later after the smoke cleared. 
 They took offense to Martha's drone and dispersed into the water

Journey for August 16, 2025

August 14, 2025 Another Lovely Anchorage

 Thursday August 14, 2025  Baddeck to Big Harbour Anchorage  8.6 miles and 1 hour

Another ultra short cruise day today.  The wonderful thing about the Bras d'Or Lake is there are multiple fantastic anchorages around every corner.  Today we'll head for one called Big Harbour.   But first we needed to walk up the hill to town and hit the Highwheeler Bakery and Cafe.  It was closed Tuesday and Wednesday but finally open today.  Got an apple strudel and a cinnamon bun with some coffee.  Both delicious so decided to load up.  Bought a 4-pack of scones (which had come highly recommended from a fellow Looper) and another 4-pack of cinnamon buns.   Gave our buddy boater Tom one of each, froze a couple of each for later and have one of each saved for breakfast tomorrow.  Super easy cruise up to Big Harbour.    Loop around Red Head Point, head north up the lake along the white gypsum cliffs and then turn into port at Bevis Point. 

White gypsum cliffs

Such a contrast to the red cliffs we've gotten so accustomed to seeing

Two boats already there upon our arrival and another three came in after us.  The harbour is big enough for all of us with plenty of room for more.   This anchorage puts us at the most easterly point in our trip at 60°37.450W.   Very nice, wooded surroundings.  There is another anchorage further in called Surprise Harbour.  Need a shallower draft than us to get there, but it's actually the site of an old gypsum mine.  Huge, flooded hole about 500' x 1000' that is over 100' deep.  Had hoped to take a dingy ride in there but the 25 MPH wind gusts make dropping the dingy a bit too hazardous.   Gypsum mining was a profitable industry in this area from the early 1900's until the depression.   The white cliffs and unique weathered outcroppings provide vivid evidence to the abundance of the mineral as well as providing for some visually interesting photographs. Locals consider this an ideal swimming area.  Clear water, minimal salinity and even gets above 70 degrees.  It's a warm 80+ degree day so I stick a foot in the water to see if it might entice me.  NOPE!  No swimming today for this fella. Still way too cold for me. Rain expected overnight with a switch in wind direction.  Wide awake at 3:30AM when the first reverberating clasps of thunder and flashes of lightning went off.  Absolutely a light show.   Had us both out of bed and sitting in the pilothouse watching.  Deluges of rain bands but surprisingly no real winds to speak of.  Mostly over after about half an hour as the leading edge passed by.  Couple more hours of on and off rain and all gone by morning.

Heading into Big Harbour - surprised to see boats already there

Another boat at anchor and some unique weathered gypsum formations

Journey for August 14, 2025

August 12-13, 2025 Exploring Baddeck

 Monday August 12, 2025  Maskells Harbour to Baddeck  6.7 miles and 1.1 hours

Believe this is our shortest cruising day since last year when we were town hopping along the western Erie Canal.  Under an hour from the anchorage to being tied up in Baddeck.  Marina was accommodating with us making an early arrival to spend time around town.  Approaching Baddeck from the water it's hidden behind an island.  Turn the corner around the island and the harbor is surprisingly small but loaded with mooring balls.  We had a spot at the head of Baddeck Marina's floating dock. Tight entry around the moored boats and then limited room for a  tight 180° spin for a port side tie, but we got it done.  Into town for a quick bite at Tom's Pizza as suggested by the Dockmaster.  "Slice and a pop" for $6 Canadian!  Visited the Info Center in town and heard again "No rental cars available locally".  Our hopes for taking a drive around Cape Breton and the famed Cabot Trail are on hold for now.

The most interesting building in Baddeck -
The old Post Office and Customs House circa 1886.

Worked our way over to the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site.  He came to Baddeck later in life after he made his fortune with the telephone.  The area reminded him of his native Scotland.  Built a big estate across the harbor called Beinn Bhreagh (Beautiful Mountain in Scottish Gaelic) and became fascinated with exploring innovations regarding tetrahedral kites, powered flight and hydrofoils.  Lived at the estate for about 35 years - sometimes just the summer and sometimes year round.   Buried with his wife on those grounds. Descendents of the Bells still own the estate which is not open to the public.  But the family made big donations of Bell's materials to Canada in 1955 and 1972 which are now maintained at the historic site here in town.  He was a co-founder of the National Geographic Society.  Some of his most notable accomplishments while in Baddeck included the first manned fight of an airplane in the British Commonwealth by the AEA Silver Dart in 1909 (replica hangs at the site) plus the HD-4 a hydrofoil boat designed as a sub chaser which set a world speed record  of 71mph in 1919.  A full size replica along with part of the original hull also are on site. 

The entry to the Alexander Graham Bell Museum.
Note the use of tetrahedral elements in the roof

Full scale replica of the HD-4  Hydrofoil boat

Full scale replica of the Silver Dart

After all that learning we headed back to the boat for a snack and beverage.   Reservations in hand we then made our way to attend the 7:30 Baddeck Gathering Ceilidh (pronounce kay-lee, Scottish Gaelic for Kitchen Party or House Party).  It's a musical event featuring Celtic music.  Tonight features a fiddle player and a piano player.  The fiddling is magical to watch as the speed of his arm and fingers working the instrument is spellbinding.  A little sample of his playing skills in the video link below.

Fiddler at the Baddeck Ceilidh

After that busy Tuesday we sort of laid low on Wednesday.  Gave the boat a much needed washdown and quick cleaning. No fun running your hand down a railing as your moving about the exterior of the boat and having your palm covered in salt.  Hit up the local Co-Op grocery store.  A bit small but had most everything we needed.   Most importantly we finally found a box of Pearl Milling ORIGINAL  pancake mix.  Essential item for Sunday morning waffles and so much better than the COMPLETE "just add water" mix.   Dinner at The Freight Shed Terrace.  Nice enjoyable relaxing atmosphere and good food.   Sky Blue showed up at the dock mid-day.  We've been crossing paths since back in Quebec.  Really nice newer Tiara with a custom sky blue hull.  The owner Tom is solo boating the Down East Loop.  We've been comparing notes as we keep an eye on Erin, the first big developing hurricane of the season likely to have an impact all the way up here.

Sky Blue and As You Wish secured for the night 

Journey for August 12, 2025

August 11, 2025 Anchoring in Maskells Harbour

 Monday  August 11, 2025  St. Peters to Maskells Harbour Anchorage  29 miles and 3.4 hours

Shorter cruising day today so no real hurry to get off the dock.  We opt for a pumpout before leaving.  More of a convenience than a need for it.  The hose for it is on the fuel dock right beside our fitting.  Just needed to get someone to come hook it up.  Which they eventually did and finally have us on our way around 11.   Destination is Maskells Harbour anchorage for an overnight stay before heading to Baddeck.  Nice cruising day.  Temperatures are into the low 80's. Relatively light SW winds.  Just the semblance of a chop in the open water portion.  Only obstacle in todays cruise is the Barra Strait Bridges.  As we round Derby Point and off the big water the line of 2 bridges, a railroad and highway, come into focus.  The railroad bridge is swung open and apparently hasn't been closed for years.   The road bridge states a 25' clearance on our charts.  We hail the bridgetender who cheerfully announces it's actually 27'.  No need for him to raise it for us and we easily fit under.  It's a narrow opening with a bit of tidal surge but we get through without issue. 

Passing through the Barra Strait Bridges opening

The reviews for our anchorage  are spot on.  A lovely place to drop anchor and surprisingly we have the entire cove to ourselves. Sets us up for a relaxing afternoon and steaks on the grill for dinner.  Martha even has a chance to fly the drone and get some pictures!

Water based view of our anchorage 

And the view from up high

Bras d'Or lake has a diverse ecosystem because it mixes fresh and salt water.   There are two narrow inlets from the sea on the north end and then the other entrance at the south via the St Peters Canal.  This allows for a combination of fresh water and salt water fish depending on the area and salinity.  We'll mostly be staying in the fresher water sections.  Pretty good sized lake with multiple fingers off the main body.  Maximum length is 62 miles and max width is 31 miles.  Total of 621 miles of shoreline with a maximum depth of 942 feet.  Plenty of anchorages to explore and a few towns along the shores.  Mostly surrounded by low mountains and trees making it very picturesque as well as providing plenty of well protected anchorage areas.

Bras d'Or lake as shown in relation to Cape Breton on our GPS

Journey for August 11, 2025